On Thu, 05 Nov 2020 12:13:06 +0000, T i m wrote:

On Thu, 5 Nov 2020 10:44:07 -0000, "wasbit"
wrote:

snip

I have a set similar to those but they were (years ago) about £8 from
ebay.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383746898885 £10

(Good find). ;-)

Do you wear glasses and if so, do you find the two work together ok?

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353264396577 (£8.29) is similar but worn like
spectacles or elastic headband.

Five 5 interchangeable lenses: 1.0x 1.5x 2.0x 2.5x 3.5x

I would prefer the solution that is addition to my 'background' glasses
(but thanks).

The ones at CPC are much more expensive than I remember. I'm wondering is
they are mis-priced!

FYI, I wear them with glasses. That's the advantage of them.


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On 5 Nov 2020 12:23:09 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

snip

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383746898885 £10

(Good find). ;-)

snip

The ones at CPC are much more expensive than I remember. I'm wondering is
they are mis-priced!

Well I've seen that model advertised elsewhere for similar and more so
maybe not.

FYI, I wear them with glasses. That's the advantage of them.

Thanks, yes, I could see how that would be, along with being able to
flip up the lens, but still have the light on the job, in contrast
with those where the whole visor flips up.

Do you find that the RW magnification is what you would expect from
the sum of your glasses and the visor lens? I didn't know if any
additional distance between your glasses and the visor lens might
impact the overall view?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. The components for the Hantek 6022 PC based oscilloscope 'upgrade
/ hack' (adding a soft driven AC (decoupling) option) are arriving and
there is no way I could or would want to apply such without a 'very
good' view of it all, especially with resistors only 3mm long!

On Thu, 05 Nov 2020 13:52:28 +0000, T i m wrote:

Do you find that the RW magnification is what you would expect from the
sum of your glasses and the visor lens? I didn't know if any additional
distance between your glasses and the visor lens might impact the
overall view?

Seems fine to me. I don't have full field of visioon anyway, but glasses
with metal rims and these rimless lenses on the visor work well. As for
actual magnification - as with Rolls Royce power, it's 'adequate'!

You might need more, but I normally use lens #2 or lens #3. rarely use
#4, and I could always combine two.

p.s. The components for the Hantek 6022 PC based oscilloscope 'upgrade /
hack' (adding a soft driven AC (decoupling) option) are arriving and
there is no way I could or would want to apply such without a 'very
good' view of it all, especially with resistors only 3mm long!

Not sure I wouldn't want the microscope for that.

(I have a standalone scope with full software control from the PC via
NISA)



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My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
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On 2020-11-04, Martin Brown wrote:

On 03/11/2020 21:45, NY wrote:
"Martin Brown" wrote in message
...
For general use I use my reading glasses and long distance one stacked.
(much like the clock guy on the repair programme)

I'm intrigued how that works, optically. How would a high
positive-dioptre lens (reading glasses) close to a lower
positive-dioptre lens (distance glasses) increase the effective power of
the reading glasses to give greater magnification and/or allow you to
focus closer to the work? I've just tried it with my reading and
distance glasses (both with reading and with distance glasses closer to
my eyes) and it makes no difference to magnification or closeness of
focussing

It if they are used consecutively it should give a compound lens with an
approximate focal length fF/(f+F). Mine are 3 diopter and 1 diopter.

You are crudely mocking up a Ramsden eyepiece when you do this. It works
best if the glasses being stacked have about the same focal length.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu.../eyepiece.html

Interesting, thanks. Optics was one of my favourite parts of physics,
but I've forgotten most of it.


If the long distance glasses are anything less than 1 dioptre I doubt if
you would really notice the difference. A cheap pair of 2 diotre reading
glasses in combination with your own formula ought to be noticeable.

I'll have to watch The Repair Shop and see if I'm doing it correctly...

The clip on loupe is much preferable for very fine work.

"T i m" wrote in message
...
I had about 4 pairs of those glasses that have little LED lights in
the arms (that I rarely used the light bit on) and were about x4
magnification that I use when I want to do anything that requires a
bit of detailed work, like soldering or cleaning the jets on a carb
etc.

Unfortunately, they seem to be a bit weak on the hinge and bridge and
short of gluing the arms in place on the ones that have gone on the
hinge, they are obviously a bit vulnerable in general (compared with
the generic all-plastic readers I have on now, wear for everything
else and have probably had for a couple of years).

So I've ordered another pair of plan 4x glasses cheap off ebay but I
wondered if you use and can recommend anything that might be both more
durable and more magnifying, especially for those much smaller jobs?
(Like I just repaired a long string of tiny white LED lights for our
daughter that have 3 very fine coated wires going to LEDs every 100mm
or so that are in what looks like blobs of resin. I really couldn't
see with any detail so had to set it up with a magnifying glass and
then solder and hope). ;-(

Now, when I first got the X4's I couldn't safely walk about with them
on but I seem to have got accustomed to them and now often do ...
rather than bothering to take them off and my readers back on (just to
go between house and workshop and back etc), so I think I'll try and
stick with a pair (or couple of pairs) of basic x4's for that reason.

However, I think I'd also like something that's also head worn (so
you keep your hands free and can get the focus right) and a bit more
powerful?

I'm not sure if it/they would go over my std readers or would be used
instead? Do they mist up ... are they light, easy to take on and off,
is having illumination built in a good idea etc etc.

For *really* micro / desktop type work (sm component / track repairs)
I have a USB microscope but that's really too inflexible for most
everyday stuff (and makes my fine tipped soldering iron look like the
end of a scaffold pole). ;-(

What do you use?


If you watch the repair shop on BBC1, Steve Fletcher, the horologist, uses a
pair of additional flip down magnifying lenses for close work.
Lots on Ebay & Amazon. Different magnifications & cheap enough to experiment
with.

--
Regards
wasbit

On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 10:13:22 -0000, "wasbit"
wrote:

snip

If you watch the repair shop on BBC1, Steve Fletcher, the horologist, uses a
pair of additional flip down magnifying lenses for close work.

Yes, I've seen the show and seen him using 'something' but not sure if
what he does is what I 'mainly' need such for?

eg. He generally sits and stays at a bench for reasonably long periods
and works on very fine things (watch / clock parts).

For me it's *also* the need to be able to walk about (within my
workshop or workshop to house and back) whilst either still wearing
said magnification (as I have done with my x4 glasses) or be able to
flip them out of the way (rather than take them off, put them down and
risk damaging them (in the workshop especially)) but leaving my std
glasses in place (as Steve does but possibly with a different use /
move ratio). eg, He would probably sit there for some time taking a
clock to bits, before moving it all over to a cleaning tank, then
polishing, then back to the bench for some time for re-assembly. [1]

I would be working in the workshop (just using my readers) but then
need to do something for 5 mins that requires a more detailed view but
in between those moments, want to beck to a more general view with the
readers. In the past I have used a magnifying glass or sheet for those
close-up view (checking how well my cleaning is going etc) but that
means I can't use both hands to hold stuff and hold stuff out of the
way or clean further.

Now, I might also need to sit at a bench and do really fine work
(surface mount components etc) and so ideally, and if I was spending
reasonable money on something, whatever I got would deal with that as
well. Or such a single solution may not be viable in which case I'd
have to get a couple of 'different' ones.

Lots on Ebay & Amazon. Different magnifications & cheap enough to experiment
with.

But rather than ending up with a draw full of failed experiments, I
thought it might be more efficient to ask the panel and therefore
potentially narrow it down a bit (and I have, thanks). ;-)

It was *after* being swamped by solutions on the likes of eBay and
Amazon that I asked here. ;-)

Cheers., T i m

[1] When I was just starting work at as trainee technician my mate was
an apprentice watchmaker and he was the one who told me the
watchmakers and jewellers often sat really low with their faces just
above the line of the bench. ;-)

On Fri, 06 Nov 2020 11:02:14 +0000, T i m wrote:

Lots on Ebay & Amazon. Different magnifications & cheap enough to experiment
with.

But rather than ending up with a draw full of failed experiments, I
thought it might be more efficient to ask the panel and therefore
potentially narrow it down a bit (and I have, thanks). ;-)

It was *after* being swamped by solutions on the likes of eBay and
Amazon that I asked here. ;-)

Cheers., T i m

I'm interested in these. I have +3.5 and +4 - I got the 4s about 15 years ag
then later wanted another pair and couldn't find 3.5.
Now, a lot on Ebay etc. say "3.5" as the top value, so of no use really, but
is that the value of the strongest lens and can the lenses be stacked to go
higher? None of them seem to say and the stronger ones are all spectacle
type. I'd prefer headband for that much overhang.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Fri, 6 Nov 2020 17:08:47 +0000, PeterC
wrote:

snip

I'm interested in these. I have +3.5 and +4 - I got the 4s about 15 years ag
then later wanted another pair and couldn't find 3.5.

Yeah, I found similar when shopping but have just received a
replacement pair of x4's (straight glasses) and they seem better than
what they replaced. They will need a bit of massaging with a file a
heat gun to get them to fit comfortably but writing on a cap that was
not discernable with my daily readers suddenly became crisp and clear
again. ;-)

Now, a lot on Ebay etc. say "3.5" as the top value, so of no use really, but
is that the value of the strongest lens and can the lenses be stacked to go
higher?

I think so yes (I'll be able to confirm that when mine arrive).

With some it seems you have a selection of lenses that you can attach
and another lens that is fixed inside you can flip down to give you a
boost, taking it up to x6 or so?

None of them seem to say and the stronger ones are all spectacle
type.

Agreed, you sometimes have to get lucky and look at all the pictures,
rather than in the description.

I'd prefer headband for that much overhang.

Agreed and what I went for (as recommenced by a couple of respondents
here).

Cheers, T i m

On 5 Nov 2020 14:33:30 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Thu, 05 Nov 2020 13:52:28 +0000, T i m wrote:

Do you find that the RW magnification is what you would expect from the
sum of your glasses and the visor lens? I didn't know if any additional
distance between your glasses and the visor lens might impact the
overall view?

Seems fine to me. I don't have full field of visioon anyway, but glasses
with metal rims and these rimless lenses on the visor work well. As for
actual magnification - as with Rolls Royce power, it's 'adequate'!

;-)

You might need more, but I normally use lens #2 or lens #3. rarely use
#4, and I could always combine two.

Noted.

So in the dial configuration, does one flip up and the other under?

p.s. The components for the Hantek 6022 PC based oscilloscope 'upgrade /
hack' (adding a soft driven AC (decoupling) option) are arriving and
there is no way I could or would want to apply such without a 'very
good' view of it all, especially with resistors only 3mm long!

Not sure I wouldn't want the microscope for that.

You may be right but I try to reserve mine for the *very* small jobs.

Like, I was 'chilling' in my mates PC shop when a customer came with
her daughter who was obviously very upset as she had kicked the USB
stick off the front of their PC and smashed it, ripping the USB plug
off the board and took some of the tracks with it.

He asked them to leave is with us then handed it to me to see if I
could do anything! ;-)

I was able to tack a short USB lead and plug to it and run it
sufficiently to back everything off onto another stick. His eyes /
skills weren't good enough so he wouldn't have taken it on himself. I
did use the microscope for that one. ;-)

(I have a standalone scope with full software control from the PC via
NISA)

Very nice. This was just ones of those USB cameras with a built in LED
lamp on a simple base with a knob to control the height.

It does take some setting up (physically), getting the object in the
right place and getting in with the iron (that now looks like a
scaffold pole) and solder without it all getting in the way ... and
then it moves ... ;-(

Cheers, T i m