View Single Post
  #49   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
T i m T i m is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,431
Default Glasses for close-up work?

On 5 Nov 2020 14:33:30 GMT, Bob Eager wrote:

On Thu, 05 Nov 2020 13:52:28 +0000, T i m wrote:

Do you find that the RW magnification is what you would expect from the
sum of your glasses and the visor lens? I didn't know if any additional
distance between your glasses and the visor lens might impact the
overall view?


Seems fine to me. I don't have full field of visioon anyway, but glasses
with metal rims and these rimless lenses on the visor work well. As for
actual magnification - as with Rolls Royce power, it's 'adequate'!


;-)

You might need more, but I normally use lens #2 or lens #3. rarely use
#4, and I could always combine two.


Noted.

So in the dial configuration, does one flip up and the other under?

p.s. The components for the Hantek 6022 PC based oscilloscope 'upgrade /
hack' (adding a soft driven AC (decoupling) option) are arriving and
there is no way I could or would want to apply such without a 'very
good' view of it all, especially with resistors only 3mm long!


Not sure I wouldn't want the microscope for that.


You may be right but I try to reserve mine for the *very* small jobs.

Like, I was 'chilling' in my mates PC shop when a customer came with
her daughter who was obviously very upset as she had kicked the USB
stick off the front of their PC and smashed it, ripping the USB plug
off the board and took some of the tracks with it.

He asked them to leave is with us then handed it to me to see if I
could do anything! ;-)

I was able to tack a short USB lead and plug to it and run it
sufficiently to back everything off onto another stick. His eyes /
skills weren't good enough so he wouldn't have taken it on himself. I
did use the microscope for that one. ;-)

(I have a standalone scope with full software control from the PC via
NISA)


Very nice. This was just ones of those USB cameras with a built in LED
lamp on a simple base with a knob to control the height.

It does take some setting up (physically), getting the object in the
right place and getting in with the iron (that now looks like a
scaffold pole) and solder without it all getting in the way ... and
then it moves ... ;-(

Cheers, T i m