A cautionary tale! Typed using less than the usual number of fingers.

Until an hour ago I had never (in many! years) had a bad kick-back on a
saw table. Everyone knows not to stand in-line with the cut and not to
cut short pieces using the rip fence. I didn't stand in-line but
couldn't be bothered to fit the cross-cut table and was "only"
chamfering the edges of some new post tops, so ran the 110 square bits
of 20mm sawn between the blade (canted to 45 degrees) and the rip fence
- all was well until, very suddenly, it wasn't. Suddenly there was a
bang and pain. The piece of wood must have rotated slightly, jammed
between the blade and fence, and been fired backward at mach 2+ ... all
exactly as I was warned by Mr? in woodwork class back in 1960something.
Very fortunately my fingers did not get the blade (or vice versa) but
the wood has caused bad bruising, swelling and a few holes in my right
centre and ring finger - the centre one may be broken. I'm starting to
wish the initial numbness would return.
Take care, and use that cross cut table!

Ouch!

Richard

On 20/05/2020 16:06, wrote:

A cautionary tale! Typed using less than the usual number of fingers.

On the bright side, it sounds like they are still attached!

Until an hour ago I had never (in many! years) had a bad kick-back on a
saw table. Everyone knows not to stand in-line with the cut and not to
cut short pieces using the rip fence. I didn't stand in-line but

Had a couple... one lofted a bit of wood backwards over my head. No
damage done, but still not expected. The other launched a thin lath of
wood that was left between blade and fence, straight back at speed. I
was not behind it, but it went fast enough to puncture the large "dust
cowl on a stand contraption" that was stored against the back wall in
the firing line!

chamfering the edges of some new post tops, so ran the 110 square bits
of 20mm sawn between the blade (canted to 45 degrees) and the rip fence
- all was well until, very suddenly, it wasn't. Suddenly there was a
bang and pain. The piece of wood must have rotated slightly, jammed
between the blade and fence, and been fired backward at mach 2+ ... all
exactly as I was warned by Mr? in woodwork class back in 1960something.
Very fortunately my fingers did not get the blade (or vice versa) but
the wood has caused bad bruising, swelling and a few holes in my right
centre and ring finger - the centre one may be broken. I'm starting to
wish the initial numbness would return.
Take care, and use that cross cut table!

Indeed...

(must admit I am rather fond of those PU foam covered gloves you can get
now. Not only do they give excellent grip on everything making control a
bit better, they also give a little bit of protection from minor
injuries like touching a finger on to a sanding disc or belt.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 4:06:38 PM UTC+1, wrote:
A cautionary tale! Typed using less than the usual number of fingers.

Until an hour ago I had never (in many! years) had a bad kick-back on a
saw table. Everyone knows not to stand in-line with the cut and not to
cut short pieces using the rip fence. I didn't stand in-line but
couldn't be bothered to fit the cross-cut table and was "only"
chamfering the edges of some new post tops, so ran the 110 square bits
of 20mm sawn between the blade (canted to 45 degrees) and the rip fence
- all was well until, very suddenly, it wasn't. Suddenly there was a
bang and pain. The piece of wood must have rotated slightly, jammed
between the blade and fence, and been fired backward at mach 2+ ... all
exactly as I was warned by Mr? in woodwork class back in 1960something.
Very fortunately my fingers did not get the blade (or vice versa) but
the wood has caused bad bruising, swelling and a few holes in my right
centre and ring finger - the centre one may be broken. I'm starting to
wish the initial numbness would return.
Take care, and use that cross cut table!

I've had a few of those but only minor ones but definitely brown trouser moments. When I attempt what you did I use extreme caution. Best to clamp a small piece of wood to the fence which ends before the saw blade and take your measurement from there but we've all got 20/20 hindsight

On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 4:06:38 PM UTC+1, wrote:
A cautionary tale! Typed using less than the usual number of fingers.

Until an hour ago I had never (in many! years) had a bad kick-back on a
saw table. Everyone knows not to stand in-line with the cut and not to
cut short pieces using the rip fence. I didn't stand in-line but
couldn't be bothered to fit the cross-cut table and was "only"
chamfering the edges of some new post tops, so ran the 110 square bits
of 20mm sawn between the blade (canted to 45 degrees) and the rip fence
- all was well until, very suddenly, it wasn't. Suddenly there was a
bang and pain. The piece of wood must have rotated slightly, jammed
between the blade and fence, and been fired backward at mach 2+ ... all
exactly as I was warned by Mr? in woodwork class back in 1960something.
Very fortunately my fingers did not get the blade (or vice versa) but
the wood has caused bad bruising, swelling and a few holes in my right
centre and ring finger - the centre one may be broken. I'm starting to
wish the initial numbness would return.
Take care, and use that cross cut table!

On 21/05/2020 08:44, fred wrote:
On Wednesday, May 20, 2020 at 4:06:38 PM UTC+1, wrote:
A cautionary tale! Typed using less than the usual number of fingers.

Until an hour ago I had never (in many! years) had a bad kick-back on a
saw table. Everyone knows not to stand in-line with the cut and not to
cut short pieces using the rip fence. I didn't stand in-line but
couldn't be bothered to fit the cross-cut table and was "only"
chamfering the edges of some new post tops, so ran the 110 square bits
of 20mm sawn between the blade (canted to 45 degrees) and the rip fence
- all was well until, very suddenly, it wasn't. Suddenly there was a
bang and pain. The piece of wood must have rotated slightly, jammed
between the blade and fence, and been fired backward at mach 2+ ... all
exactly as I was warned by Mr? in woodwork class back in 1960something.
Very fortunately my fingers did not get the blade (or vice versa) but
the wood has caused bad bruising, swelling and a few holes in my right
centre and ring finger - the centre one may be broken. I'm starting to
wish the initial numbness would return.
Take care, and use that cross cut table!

I've had a few of those but only minor ones but definitely brown trouser moments. When I attempt what you did I use extreme caution. Best to clamp a small piece of wood to the fence which ends before the saw blade and take your measurement from there but we've all got 20/20 hindsight

Yes, when cutting to length I normally clamp a block to the rip fence or
use the cross-cut carriage with a stop block to get repeatable lengths
.... but I needed a chamfer and the blade only tilts one way and this was
"only" a small cut, and (insert lots of other "only"s) - bottom line is
that I was a prat and lucky to escape with my right middle finger still
attached and likely to function normally once it stops looking like an
over-inflated blue balloon. My wife is very relieved ;-)

On 21/05/2020 09:04, wrote:
On 21/05/2020 08:44, fred wrote:

I've had a few of those but only minor ones but definitely brown
trouser moments. When I attempt what you did I use extreme caution.
Best to clamp a small piece of wood to the fence which ends before the
saw blade and take your measurement from there but we've all got 20/20
hindsight

Yes, when cutting to length I normally clamp a block to the rip fence or
use the cross-cut carriage with a stop block to get repeatable lengths
.... but I needed a chamfer and the blade only tilts one way and this

I used to have that problem with mine, until I made up a box to go round
the OEM rip fence that made both sides useable. So I can choose which
side to have the fence, and hence whether the blade tilts towards or
away from the fence.

was "only" a small cut, and (insert lots of other "only"s) - bottom line
is that I was a prat and lucky to escape with my right middle finger
still attached and likely to function normally once it stops looking
like an over-inflated blue balloon. My wife is very relieved ;-)

There is a temptation to read far more into that statement than you
probably intended :-)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 21/05/2020 13:32, John Rumm wrote:
On 21/05/2020 09:04, wrote:
On 21/05/2020 08:44, fred wrote:

I've had a few of those but only minor ones but definitely brown
trouser moments. When I attempt what you did I use extreme caution.
Best to clamp a small piece of wood to the fence which ends before
the saw blade and take your measurement from there but we've all got
20/20 hindsight

Yes, when cutting to length I normally clamp a block to the rip fence
or use the cross-cut carriage with a stop block to get repeatable
lengths .... but I needed a chamfer and the blade only tilts one way
and this

I used to have that problem with mine, until I made up a box to go round
the OEM rip fence that made both sides useable. So I can choose which
side to have the fence, and hence whether the blade tilts towards or
away from the fence.
The rip fence goes either side of the blade but there's not much space
on the right side (the blade tilts to the left) because of the other
functions - it's a Kity Bestcombi 2000. An excellent machine, and all
perfectly good provided the operator doesn't behave like a prat.

was "only" a small cut, and (insert lots of other "only"s) - bottom
line is that I was a prat and lucky to escape with my right middle
finger still attached and likely to function normally once it stops
looking like an over-inflated blue balloon. My wife is very relieved ;-)

There is a temptation to read far more into that statement than you
probably intended :-)



It was intended ;-)

On Wednesday, 20 May 2020 16:06:38 UTC+1, wrote:
A cautionary tale! Typed using less than the usual number of fingers.

Until an hour ago I had never (in many! years) had a bad kick-back on a
saw table. Everyone knows not to stand in-line with the cut and not to
cut short pieces using the rip fence. I didn't stand in-line but
couldn't be bothered to fit the cross-cut table and was "only"
chamfering the edges of some new post tops, so ran the 110 square bits
of 20mm sawn between the blade (canted to 45 degrees) and the rip fence
- all was well until, very suddenly, it wasn't. Suddenly there was a
bang and pain. The piece of wood must have rotated slightly, jammed
between the blade and fence, and been fired backward at mach 2+ ... all
exactly as I was warned by Mr? in woodwork class back in 1960something.
Very fortunately my fingers did not get the blade (or vice versa) but
the wood has caused bad bruising, swelling and a few holes in my right
centre and ring finger - the centre one may be broken. I'm starting to
wish the initial numbness would return.
Take care, and use that cross cut table!

This where the portable electric saw is better.
Missiles go down rather than up.

On 21/05/2020 15:10, wrote:
On 21/05/2020 13:32, John Rumm wrote:
On 21/05/2020 09:04, wrote:
On 21/05/2020 08:44, fred wrote:

I've had a few of those but only minor ones but definitely brown
trouser moments. When I attempt what you did I use extreme caution.
Best to clamp a small piece of wood to the fence which ends before
the saw blade and take your measurement from there but we've all got
20/20 hindsight

Yes, when cutting to length I normally clamp a block to the rip fence
or use the cross-cut carriage with a stop block to get repeatable
lengths .... but I needed a chamfer and the blade only tilts one way
and this

I used to have that problem with mine, until I made up a box to go
round the OEM rip fence that made both sides useable. So I can choose
which side to have the fence, and hence whether the blade tilts
towards or away from the fence.

The rip fence goes either side of the blade but there's not much space
on the right side (the blade tilts to the left) because of the other
functions - it's a Kity Bestcombi 2000. An excellent machine, and all
perfectly good provided the operator doesn't behave like a prat.

Ah, yup see what you mean - have the proper sliding table steals quite a
bit of fence rail width on that side.


was "only" a small cut, and (insert lots of other "only"s) - bottom
line is that I was a prat and lucky to escape with my right middle
finger still attached and likely to function normally once it stops
looking like an over-inflated blue balloon. My wife is very relieved ;-)

There is a temptation to read far more into that statement than you
probably intended :-)



It was intended ;-)

Perhaps you need something that can take away the pain but leave the
swelling :-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 21/05/2020 15:10, wrote:
On 21/05/2020 13:32, John Rumm wrote:
On 21/05/2020 09:04, wrote:
On 21/05/2020 08:44, fred wrote:

I've had a few of those but only minor ones but definitely brown
trouser moments. When I attempt what you did I use extreme caution.
Best to clamp a small piece of wood to the fence which ends before
the saw blade and take your measurement from there but we've all got
20/20 hindsight

Yes, when cutting to length I normally clamp a block to the rip fence
or use the cross-cut carriage with a stop block to get repeatable
lengths .... but I needed a chamfer and the blade only tilts one way
and this

I used to have that problem with mine, until I made up a box to go
round the OEM rip fence that made both sides useable. So I can choose
which side to have the fence, and hence whether the blade tilts
towards or away from the fence.

The rip fence goes either side of the blade but there's not much space
on the right side (the blade tilts to the left) because of the other
functions - it's a Kity Bestcombi 2000. An excellent machine, and all
perfectly good provided the operator doesn't behave like a prat.

Ah, yup see what you mean - have the proper sliding table steals quite a
bit of fence rail width on that side.


was "only" a small cut, and (insert lots of other "only"s) - bottom
line is that I was a prat and lucky to escape with my right middle
finger still attached and likely to function normally once it stops
looking like an over-inflated blue balloon. My wife is very relieved ;-)

There is a temptation to read far more into that statement than you
probably intended :-)



It was intended ;-)

Perhaps you need something that can take away the pain but leave the
swelling :-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/