Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

Spawn of the devil IMHO, horrible things in almost every way, I've yet
to have a good experience with them and they're virtually standard now.

--
Chris Green
·

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 09:30:42 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

I often use a locking sealant (Rocol I think, like a form of Loctite)
for such things but it depends on how the thing is sealed in the first
place. Like, if it uses an 'O ring' then it could be tricky, should
the seal relax in time and the nut need tightening (although the lock
/ sealant I use it 'soft hold').

If it could be sealed via the nut without the washer (eg, it's not a
swiveling nut) then you could use the thread locker / sealant and not
worry about relying on the washer.

I would especially do all this if you could still get the tap out with
the tails on (so you could work on them out of the sink).

I also use it on all my pneumatic / air-line fittings as it allows you
to rotate things into the right position (water traps and the like)
without having to f about with PTFE tape (it sets very quickly).

Cheers, T i m

/The O Ring is the seal - the thread is merely holding stuff together.

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 11:26:58 GMT, John Not.responding.@dotcom wrote:




/The O Ring is the seal - the thread is merely holding stuff together.

Not if the seal is (effectively) moved to the thread (and my point).

eg, I would rather have the end of the tail sealed on where it
couldn't accidentally unscrew / leak over time than relying on a
rubber washer and the friction of the compressing nut on the thread
that might.

Assuming the nut isn't a swivel type, a potable fast setting / soft
hold sealant does all that is required and with less risk?

Cheers, T i m

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

The braid on the rubber hose looks to be stainless steel.
In my case it wasn't, it has started to rust.
These flexibles are best avoided IMV

On 18/04/2020 09:36, Andy Burns wrote:
PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a
seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the
base
of the tap.

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

While excellent for doing up the retaining nut, they are not much use
for the hot and cold flexi tails, which is what I get the impression the
OP is talking about.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"harry" wrote in message
...
On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal.
If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the
base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm
getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

The braid on the rubber hose looks to be stainless steel.
In my case it wasn't, it has started to rust.
These flexibles are best avoided IMV

Its worked fine for me and mine havent rusted.

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 09:36:04 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

Thanks, but the crimp part is bigger than the flats on the hex bit.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 18/04/2020 09:30, PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

I have not had any problem with them in general. Just make sure you
don't kink the hoses when tightening.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

Firstly, its much easier to get these well fixed before you mount the
tap in place - then you can use the hex ends with a spanner.

You will need the box spanners however (linked by Andy earlier), for
doing up the crescent washer and gasket that fixes the tap to the basin
since you now need to reach into the narrow space between the tail ends.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

Yup that looks fine. Don't forget to include a service valve in there
somewhere.

I normally use the supplied flexi tails with their 1/2" BSP female end,
and screw that directly onto the free end of a full boor half inch
compression service valve (having removed the nut an olive).

Like in the photo he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/e/e...rFinished1.png

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

Not required - the O ring makes the seal. I sometimes assemble with a
smear if silicone grease on the O ring.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 11:49:15 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 09:30:42 +0100, PeterC
wrote:

Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

I often use a locking sealant (Rocol I think, like a form of Loctite)
for such things but it depends on how the thing is sealed in the first
place. Like, if it uses an 'O ring' then it could be tricky, should
the seal relax in time and the nut need tightening (although the lock
/ sealant I use it 'soft hold').

If it could be sealed via the nut without the washer (eg, it's not a
swiveling nut) then you could use the thread locker / sealant and not
worry about relying on the washer.

I would especially do all this if you could still get the tap out with
the tails on (so you could work on them out of the sink).

I also use it on all my pneumatic / air-line fittings as it allows you
to rotate things into the right position (water traps and the like)
without having to f about with PTFE tape (it sets very quickly).

Cheers, T i m

Not much chance of using a sealant on the 10mm thread - deep in the tap and
seem to have silicone grease on them.
Even the 15mm nuts won't pass through the threaded collar that holds the tap
i (with nut and seals, of course); the push-fit connectors are bigger.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 07:50:15 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

The braid on the rubber hose looks to be stainless steel.
In my case it wasn't, it has started to rust.
These flexibles are best avoided IMV

I agree - if I'm not happy with them I'll se if I can get some copper ones.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

John Rumm wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

While excellent for doing up the retaining nut, they are not much use
for the hot and cold flexi tails, which is what I get the impression the
OP is talking about.

My mixer had some rigid 'stalks' that screw into the block, then you can
use compression (flexi or not) onto those.

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 04:41:39 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:


The braid on the rubber hose looks to be stainless steel.
In my case it wasn't, it has started to rust.
These flexibles are best avoided IMV

Its worked fine for me and mine havent rusted.

His obviously have, you brain dead senile bull**** artist!

--
Marland addressing senile Rodent's tall stories:
"Do you really think people believe your stories you come up with to boost
your self esteem."
Message-ID:

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 19:37:43 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

On 18/04/2020 09:36, Andy Burns wrote:
PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a
seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the
base
of the tap.

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

While excellent for doing up the retaining nut, they are not much use
for the hot and cold flexi tails, which is what I get the impression the
OP is talking about.

Correct - also if I tighten a tail as much as I dare it is still easy to
undo - doesn't seem to be at all secure.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 20:03:15 +0100, Andy Burns wrote:

John Rumm wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

While excellent for doing up the retaining nut, they are not much use
for the hot and cold flexi tails, which is what I get the impression the
OP is talking about.

My mixer had some rigid 'stalks' that screw into the block, then you can
use compression (flexi or not) onto those.

Are they shortish 'stalks' or copper tails like these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f... ails&_sacat=0
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 19:46:19 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

On 18/04/2020 09:30, PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

I have not had any problem with them in general. Just make sure you
don't kink the hoses when tightening.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

Firstly, its much easier to get these well fixed before you mount the
tap in place - then you can use the hex ends with a spanner.

You will need the box spanners however (linked by Andy earlier), for
doing up the crescent washer and gasket that fixes the tap to the basin
since you now need to reach into the narrow space between the tail ends.

As I said, the crimp on the tail is bigger than the hex so no go there.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

Yup that looks fine. Don't forget to include a service valve in there
somewhere.

I normally use the supplied flexi tails with their 1/2" BSP female end,
and screw that directly onto the free end of a full boor half inch
compression service valve (having removed the nut an olive).

Like in the photo he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/e/e...rFinished1.png

The valves are at the bottom of the feeds so that I can make mods. higher up
if necessary.
Just tried on an old service valve and it is, of course, OK. Rather
bizzarely the 15mm ends of the tails are for a face seal - like the top of
'conventional' tails, so no good for compression fitting.
I think that the Hep2O is the simplest way but I'll get some straight comp.
connectors and they should be useable between the 2 face seals.

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

Not required - the O ring makes the seal. I sometimes assemble with a
smear if silicone grease on the O ring.

Some comments on SF's site say that the provided seals are crap. I noticed
that the new basin isn't as well formed around the outlet as is the 30 yo
one. Also, the measurement given is 70mm but the outlet isn't flat-bottomed
and 70 looks as if tightening wil deform the flange; 60 might be better.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 19:46:21 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

I normally use the supplied flexi tails with their 1/2" BSP female end,
and screw that directly onto the free end of a full boor half inch
compression service valve (having removed the nut an olive).

Compression fittings aren't designed to mate directly to a rubber washer as the pointed edge can cut into (through) the washer.

Adaptors are available that provide a flat mating face:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-...x-2-pack/2665R

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

Note that the instructions for our our monoblock tap (a Franke) says to only hand-tighten the tails and explicitly says not to use any tools. It is designed so the o-rings seal against the side walls - not under compression with a mating face (it's not a washer) - and would remain doing so even if undone several turns which wouldn't happen given the compression end anchors the flexi in place. Might yours be the same?

PeterC wrote:

Are they shortish 'stalks' or copper tails like these?

Like those AFAIR, not had to look at them in the 12 years since
installed, thankfully.

On 19/04/2020 08:16, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 19:37:43 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

On 18/04/2020 09:36, Andy Burns wrote:
PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a
seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the
base
of the tap.

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

While excellent for doing up the retaining nut, they are not much use
for the hot and cold flexi tails, which is what I get the impression the
OP is talking about.

Correct - also if I tighten a tail as much as I dare it is still easy to
undo - doesn't seem to be at all secure.

If there was a problem with the concept they wouldn't be so widely used;
perhaps you need to use a little more oomph. I've never had problems
with them but have taken care not to stress the flexi or to have tight
bends in them.

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 19:49:31 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 07:50:15 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

The braid on the rubber hose looks to be stainless steel.
In my case it wasn't, it has started to rust.
These flexibles are best avoided IMV

I agree - if I'm not happy with them I'll se if I can get some copper ones.

The other thing is the little quarter turn isolating valves with the screwdriver slot are crap. Seize up, leak and pass.

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 15:50:18 UTC+1, harry wrote:

The braid on the rubber hose looks to be stainless steel.
In my case it wasn't, it has started to rust.
These flexibles are best avoided IMV

They were apparently responsible for 22% of water damage claims in Australia in 2016:

https://plumbingconnection.com.au/bu...i-hose-bubble/

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 01:08:48 -0700 (PDT), Mathew Newton
wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

Note that the instructions for our our monoblock tap (a Franke) says to only hand-tighten the tails and explicitly says not to use any tools. It is designed so the o-rings seal against the side walls - not under compression with a mating face (it's not a washer) - and would remain doing so even if undone several turns which wouldn't happen given the compression end anchors the flexi in place. Might yours be the same?

That sounds like the most likely explanation so far. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 18/04/2020 20:03, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

https://www.toolstation.com/p21894

While excellent for doing up the retaining nut, they are not much use
for the hot and cold flexi tails, which is what I get the impression
the OP is talking about.

My mixer had some rigid 'stalks' that screw into the block, then you can
use compression (flexi or not) onto those.

I have used those in the past, but they seem to be less common than they
once were.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 19/04/2020 08:44, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 19:46:19 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

Firstly, its much easier to get these well fixed before you mount the
tap in place - then you can use the hex ends with a spanner.

You will need the box spanners however (linked by Andy earlier), for
doing up the crescent washer and gasket that fixes the tap to the basin
since you now need to reach into the narrow space between the tail ends.

As I said, the crimp on the tail is bigger than the hex so no go there.

I can't visualise why that would be a problem - or is the base of your
tap designed with a recess so that you can't get to the hex once the
tail is in place to screw up?

(Normally an open ended spanner will reach the hex bit from the sides).

Note that since they seal on the o ring they don't actually need to be
that tight - just enough to stop them accidentally undoing.

Some comments on SF's site say that the provided seals are crap. I noticed
that the new basin isn't as well formed around the outlet as is the 30 yo
one. Also, the measurement given is 70mm but the outlet isn't flat-bottomed
and 70 looks as if tightening wil deform the flange; 60 might be better.

Ah, we might be talking at cross purposes... I was referring to the O
ring on the end of the 10mm threaded flexi tail that makes connection to
the body of the tap. There is a second large O ring normally on the
underside of the tap body that is supposed to seal against the basin.
Some of these are helped if you bed the tap onto a bead of silicone or
Fernox LS-X.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 01:08:48 -0700 (PDT), Mathew Newton wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

w Note that the instructions for our our monoblock tap (a Franke) says to
only hand-tighten the tails and explicitly says not to use any tools. It is
designed so the o-rings seal against the side walls - not under compression
with a mating face (it's not a washer) - and would remain doing so even if
undone several turns which wouldn't happen given the compression end anchors
the flexi in place. Might yours be the same?

Well, the female threads in the tap have a tapered lead-in, so possibly.
It wouldn't stand several turns - ½ a turn perhaps.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 19/04/2020 09:03, Mathew Newton wrote:
On Saturday, 18 April 2020 19:46:21 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:

I normally use the supplied flexi tails with their 1/2" BSP female end,
and screw that directly onto the free end of a full boor half inch
compression service valve (having removed the nut an olive).

Compression fittings aren't designed to mate directly to a rubber washer as the pointed edge can cut into (through) the washer.

I have never found it to be a problem - often a service valve has the
same or even larger flat surface area on the end of it.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 13:52:57 +0100, T i m wrote:

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 01:08:48 -0700 (PDT), Mathew Newton
wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

Note that the instructions for our our monoblock tap (a Franke) says to only hand-tighten the tails and explicitly says not to use any tools. It is designed so the o-rings seal against the side walls - not under compression with a mating face (it's not a washer) - and would remain doing so even if undone several turns which wouldn't happen given the compression end anchors the flexi in place. Might yours be the same?

That sounds like the most likely explanation so far. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

I agree - more in hope than confidence!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 19/04/2020 12:07, harry wrote:
On Saturday, 18 April 2020 19:49:31 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 18 Apr 2020 07:50:15 -0700 (PDT), harry wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:
Got new tap, swivel-spout mixer, with the usual metal mesh outer. Now, a
couple of things:

how durable are these tails? Pressure is about 4 Bar, so quite a force on
the hose.

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

As the water supply is in Speedfit and tails end in 15mm female I'm getting
a pair of Hep2O push-fit tails.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-pus...m-2-pack/2043f

For fitting the waste I have Pluumbers Mait; not a fan as it sticks to
everything except the right place. Is there anything better?

The braid on the rubber hose looks to be stainless steel.
In my case it wasn't, it has started to rust.
These flexibles are best avoided IMV

I agree - if I'm not happy with them I'll se if I can get some copper ones.

The other thing is the little quarter turn isolating valves with the screwdriver slot are crap. Seize up, leak and pass.

True of some, but not generally if you get decent ones.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

PeterC Wrote in message:
On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 01:08:48 -0700 (PDT), Mathew Newton wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

w Note that the instructions for our our monoblock tap (a Franke) says to
only hand-tighten the tails and explicitly says not to use any tools. It is
designed so the o-rings seal against the side walls - not under compression
with a mating face (it's not a washer) - and would remain doing so even if
undone several turns which wouldn't happen given the compression end anchors
the flexi in place. Might yours be the same?

Well, the female threads in the tap have a tapered lead-in, so possibly.
It wouldn't stand several turns - ½ a turn perhaps.

Shurely you've done this by now?
--
Jimk


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On Tue, 21 Apr 2020 12:32:55 +0100 (GMT+01:00), Jimk wrote:

PeterC Wrote in message:
On Sun, 19 Apr 2020 01:08:48 -0700 (PDT), Mathew Newton wrote:

On Saturday, 18 April 2020 09:30:45 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

the tails have 10mm thread into the tap, with a little O-ring as a seal. If
I tighten a tail as much as I can I can still unscrew it by just twisting
the other end. The hex on the tail is no good as it's deep within the base
of the tap.

w Note that the instructions for our our monoblock tap (a Franke) says to
only hand-tighten the tails and explicitly says not to use any tools. It is
designed so the o-rings seal against the side walls - not under compression
with a mating face (it's not a washer) - and would remain doing so even if
undone several turns which wouldn't happen given the compression end anchors
the flexi in place. Might yours be the same?

Well, the female threads in the tap have a tapered lead-in, so possibly.
It wouldn't stand several turns - ½ a turn perhaps.

Shurely you've done this by now?

It's complex: need to swap valves on the rad.; build a plinth for the unit
(it needs 80mm to get to the 910mm splashback - and I would like more on
that but it's too messy) plus half a dozen more silly little annoyances to
address.
While I'm doing the rad. I'll drain the system, clean the condensate drain,
have a look at the PCB and check the pressure. Refilling with inhibitor is a
pain as the rads don't have top connectors so it has to be done into the
main inlet. At least now I have a v. small funnel - had to use a 60ml
syringe with a bit of tube before.
Also need some uninterrupted days for it - I daren't make the plinth until
the old basin is out and, with the differences in design, make sure that
everything will work.
When fitting single taps I fille the threads from plastic back-nuts and use
those a spacers - locates the tap perfectly and acts as a washer underneath
as well. For the mixer tap, it's a bit slack in the hole but 5mm of
solvent-weld 32mm pipe with a wee bit cut out holds it snugly in place.
I've just picked up the Hep2O tails but haven't yet looked at them - 10
miles walking, SF, Waitrose, bus - I needed food and rest. Didn't need that
back in the'70s!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway