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Old January 6th 19, 11:14 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 42
Default Rant about LED floodlights

I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes.

Dead simple to install and maintain.

The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem.

Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube......

Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made!

Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only.

I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker!

A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards and its not an easy job as you have to undo the wiring, undo the wall bracket, remove the old light fitting entirely and work in reverse.

Even when I use self amalgamating tape to solve the "filling with rainwater" issue, the LED floodlight barely lasts more than a year before the whole thing has to be replaced.....

So much for minimising WEEE waste!

Rant over!

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Old January 7th 19, 12:03 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default Rant about LED floodlights

wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes.

Dead simple to install and maintain.

The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem.

Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed
door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube......

Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest
mistake I ever made!

Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole*
unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only.

I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently
find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker!


Maybe you’re mounting them the wrong way up?


A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED
floodlight is 30 quid upwards


How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available.

Tim

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Old January 7th 19, 12:13 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jan 2015
Posts: 9,455
Default Rant about LED floodlights

On Sunday, 6 January 2019 22:14:49 UTC, wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes.

Dead simple to install and maintain.

The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem.

Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube......

Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest mistake I ever made!

Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole* unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only.

I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker!

A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED floodlight is 30 quid upwards and its not an easy job as you have to undo the wiring, undo the wall bracket, remove the old light fitting entirely and work in reverse.

Even when I use self amalgamating tape to solve the "filling with rainwater" issue, the LED floodlight barely lasts more than a year before the whole thing has to be replaced.....

So much for minimising WEEE waste!

Rant over!


I've advised people against them but they're more inclined to follow fashion. Use a traditional fitting + led bulb.


NT
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Old January 7th 19, 12:24 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,096
Default Rant about LED floodlights

On 06/01/2019 22:14, wrote:

I also find that the cable entry point is at the top


All of mine are mounted with the cable entry at the bottom. They could
have been mounted the other way up but that didn't make sense.

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Old January 7th 19, 12:36 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Mar 2013
Posts: 42
Default Rant about LED floodlights

On Sunday, 6 January 2019 23:03:28 UTC, Tim+ wrote:
wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes.

Dead simple to install and maintain.

The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was *never* a problem.

Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed
door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube......

Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest
mistake I ever made!

Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole*
unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only.

I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently
find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker!


Maybe you’re mounting them the wrong way up?


A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED
floodlight is 30 quid upwards


How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available.


the 500 Watt halogens were replaced with 30 watt LEDs.


Tim

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Old January 7th 19, 12:40 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Mar 2013
Posts: 42
Default Rant about LED floodlights

Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest
mistake I ever made!

Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole*
unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only.

I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently
find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker!


Maybe you’re mounting them the wrong way up?


hardly, there is a single metal casing where the LED array is on the underside and the cable entry hole is on the top side.

If I make the cable entry hole at the bottom, the LED array would be pointing up to Heaven!

see the following:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-f...daylight/665cc

You can see the cable entry gland... I have my LED floods pointing downwards to avoid annoying the neighbours but that makes the cable gland face the rains from heaven!


A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED
floodlight is 30 quid upwards


How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones available.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls


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Old January 7th 19, 01:20 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 30,277
Default Rant about LED floodlights



wrote in message
...
Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest
mistake I ever made!

Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the
*whole*
unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only.

I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now
frequently
find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker!


Maybe you’re mounting them the wrong way up?


hardly, there is a single metal casing where the LED array is
on the underside and the cable entry hole is on the top side.


Then its ****ed by design and you should
be buying a better designed one.

If I make the cable entry hole at the bottom, the LED array would be
pointing up to Heaven!

see the following:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-led-f...daylight/665cc

You can see the cable entry gland... I have my LED floods pointing
downwards to avoid annoying the neighbours but that makes the cable gland
face the rains from heaven!


A new halogen Tube can be had for around a pound, a whole new LED
floodlight is 30 quid upwards


How much light do you *really* need? Plenty of much cheaper ones
available.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls


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Old January 7th 19, 10:04 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jan 2019
Posts: 553
Default Lonely Psychotic Senile Ozzie Troll Alert! LOL

On Mon, 7 Jan 2019 11:20:16 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rot Speed,
the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

hardly, there is a single metal casing where the LED array is
on the underside and the cable entry hole is on the top side.


Then its ****ed by design


....as much as you are? Unlikely!

--
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"You really should stop commenting on things you know nothing about."
Message-ID:
  #10   Report Post  
Old January 7th 19, 11:48 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,178
Default Rant about LED floodlights

In article ,
wrote:
I used to use halogen floodlights with either 300 W or 500 W tubes.


Dead simple to install and maintain.


The cable entry point was always at the bottom so rain ingress was
*never* a problem.


Tube replacement was simple, unscrew just one screw, open metal framed
door and use cotton gloves to swap out the halogen tube......


Unscrew it it's not corroded in place .

Then I decided to replace the whole units with LED floodlights. biggest
mistake I ever made!


Now when the LED floodlight fails, I find I *have* to replace the *whole*
unit, I cannot replace the PSU part or the LED array only.


I also find that the cable entry point is at the top so I now frequently
find that they fill up with rain water and pop the circuit breaker!


perhasp you'rv mounted it upside down. All the LED floods I've fitted have
tehn cable entry ay tehn bottom

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle


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