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Old November 8th 18, 06:44 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg
http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG

Any advice welcomed.


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the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
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Old November 8th 18, 06:59 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
GB GB is offline
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On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between¬* oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG


Any advice¬* welcomed.



1. Don't use masking tape, but something tougher? What do you have to hand?

2. Use better filler. I'm a huge fan of 1strike.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-O.../dp/B001326TJA

It says 'no sanding'. I'm not convinced about that, but you do just bung
it in the hole, and it stays put without sagging.

HTH
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Old November 8th 18, 07:04 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
GB GB is offline
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Very nice house, by the way. Can we have some more pics of the views,
please?


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Old November 8th 18, 07:09 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 08/11/2018 18:04, GB wrote:
Very nice house, by the way. Can we have some more pics of the views,
please?


They will accumulate as the renovation progresses. My ex left it in a
terrible state.


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by telling poor people that "other" rich people are the reason they are
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Old November 8th 18, 07:21 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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GB Wrote in message:
On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG


Any advice welcomed.



1. Don't use masking tape, but something tougher? What do you have to hand?

2. Use better filler. I'm a huge fan of 1strike.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-O.../dp/B001326TJA

It says 'no sanding'. I'm not convinced about that, but you do just bung
it in the hole, and it stays put without sagging.


There are a few equivalent products.

The "no sanding" line is proffered as a positive feature not an
exclusion...

It is very quick & easy to sand as long as it's 100% dried...
--
Jim K


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http://usenet.sinaapp.com/


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Old November 8th 18, 07:26 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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GB wrote:

I'm a huge fan of 1strike.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-O.../dp/B001326TJA

It says 'no sanding'. I'm not convinced about that, but you do just bung
it in the hole, and it stays put without sagging.


I like it too, rake out the hole, fill it once relatively roughly as
deep as it takes in one go, give it an hour or two, tamp it down firmly
by thumb, give it another hour or two, then re-fill it level with a
filling knife, 24 hours to properly dry, minimal sanding and never had
the cracks open up again.
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Old November 8th 18, 07:29 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between¬* oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


Melted velcro means you are applying too much pressure.



The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG


Any advice¬* welcomed.



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Old November 8th 18, 07:39 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 08/11/2018 18:29, newshound wrote:
On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between¬* oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the
ends off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted
20 mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


Melted velcro means you are applying too much pressure.

No it meanss the sanding material fell off and I didnt notice



The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG


Any advice¬* welcomed.





--
"The great thing about Glasgow is that if there's a nuclear attack it'll
look exactly the same afterwards."

Billy Connolly
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Old November 8th 18, 09:56 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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On Thu, 8 Nov 2018 17:44:25 +0000
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between
oak beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the
ends off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted
20 mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg
http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG

Any advice welcomed.

Don't sand and don't mask. Hack off any unevenness before filling,
fill deep and scrape the filler back flush with the existing good
surface, then fill it smooth with a second coat once the first coat
is firm enough. Ordinary Polyfilla or one-coat plaster works fine
for me - if the edges open up after a while use decorator's caulk,
which will allow a bit of movement.
And cut the edge in properly with a bit of brush skill, ferchrissakes.

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Old November 8th 18, 10:58 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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On Thursday, 8 November 2018 20:56:09 UTC, Rob Morley wrote:
On Thu, 8 Nov 2018 17:44:25 +0000
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between
oak beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the
ends off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted
20 mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg
http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG

Any advice welcomed.

Don't sand and don't mask. Hack off any unevenness before filling,
fill deep and scrape the filler back flush with the existing good
surface, then fill it smooth with a second coat once the first coat
is firm enough.


precisely. It's way easier than overfilling then sanding back. Most people fail at it because they don't listen to the one golden rule: don't let even 1 grain of sand remain above the level surface. Do that and it's /the/ way to fill.

Ordinary Polyfilla or one-coat plaster works fine
for me - if the edges open up after a while use decorator's caulk,
which will allow a bit of movement.


any plaster/filler works as long as it doesn't slump.


NT


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