UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #41   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default best tool for this job?

On Fri, 9 Nov 2018 09:56:03 +0000
alan_m wrote:

What I've found useful to get a flat surface for filling over
distances of 12 inches is a taping knife which has a long blade and
can be run over the existing wall and the plaster to ensure one is
flush with the other

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Han...g+Knife/p25000

I just use a plastering trowel, I think the taping knife would be too
flexible to scrape hard enough (the way I do it anyway).

  #42   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 785
Default best tool for this job?

On Fri, 9 Nov 2018 15:55:53 +0000
Andrew wrote:

And filling long cracks like that without getting any on the beam is
easy if you use a plasters trowel instead of one of those silly
'filling' knifes.

Just use the filling knife to build a line of filler along the
long edge of a plasters trowel and then wipe it into the gap, away
from the beam.


No need for a knife, you just move the plaster around on its board or
hawk until you can pick up an even line along the edge of the trowel.

  #43   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,237
Default best tool for this job?

Andrew wrote:

On 09/11/2018 18:11, Roger Hayter wrote:
Andrew wrote:

On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...icture=Kitchen
/scv_15410864578302304584964064881918.jpg

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...icture=Kitchen
/DSC_0003.JPG


Any advice welcomed.



What is the British obsession with brown wood on the inside of the
house ?.

Just overboard with fireproof plaster and have it skimmed. Use the
void between the beams to hide downlighters and wiring.

If you must keep them on show, just dont bother with masking.
fill the cracks with Wickes white and fine surface filler and
then have the beams sandblasted back to bare wood, which will
remove any plaster overspill.


When the bottom of your ceiling joists is around 1900mm (and I've seen
lower than ours) you need the space between a few inches higher.

What for ?.


To reduce claustrophobia and make it slightly less dimly lighted. As
you say, it would be enormously convenient to use the void to run pipes
and wires. (Though I'm not sure I'd dare make holes in the joists.) The
fact that none of the joists is the same depth as another, or straight
or constant in depth would make the task complex, but in any case we are
sure it wouldn't suit us.




If you're going to bang your head on any of the beams then you
bought the wrong house.


Mind you, ours are painted off-white, to get a bit of light in.



--

Roger Hayter
  #44   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,364
Default best tool for this job?

On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/11/2018 12:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 12:34:41 UTC, John Rumm wrote:


Take one reciprocating saw, and a medium length old blade, plus a
block of wood say 6" x 3" x 1/2".

Use the saw to cut a kerf into the middle of the wide surface of
the block, and then epoxy the *back* of the blade into that kerf to
that it is held at a slight angle to the blade. Pop the blade in
the saw, and you now have a linear{1] reciprocating sanding block.
A bit like:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...dingLashup.png


[1] Because of the slight angle there will be a component of
verticle movement as well - so you will get a bit of vibration...


you won't get a bit of vibration from that picture you'll get failure
to contact 90% of the time. That can be greatly improved by the block
being at 90 degrees to the blade so the blade bends sideways every
stroke. Even better, mount it properly so no bending is required.


Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You could also
round the face of the sanding block slightly to ensure that there is
always a (moving) point of contact.


that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade movement.


NT
  #45   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 31
Default best tool for this job?



"Andrew" wrote in message
news
On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg
http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG
Any advice welcomed.



What is the British obsession with brown wood on the inside of the
house ?.


Basically, tradition.

Just overboard with fireproof plaster and have it skimmed. Use the
void between the beams to hide downlighters and wiring.

If you must keep them on show, just dont bother with masking.
fill the cracks with Wickes white and fine surface filler and
then have the beams sandblasted back to bare wood, which will
remove any plaster overspill.


Makes the wood look much worse.



  #46   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 09/11/2018 15:59, Andrew wrote:
On 09/11/2018 11:41, John Rumm wrote:
Probably why many beamed ceilings use roughcast plaster between the
beams - that way all the imperfections are just "rustic"!


+1

And if 'she' has gone then the heating will no longer be set to
28 C so those gaps will close up on their own :-)


Oh 'she' disabled all the heating and lived off the aga in the kichen,
and the wood burner in the bedroom. Amd most of the lights were disabled
- candle smoke on the ceiling.

Full scale nervous breakdown once she had no one to bully. Or someone
elses money to spend.

She thought people, were out to get her. Mainly she wasnt wrong. She was
like someone I used to work for. His co-MD reckoned 'Dick doesn't
understand people see, he doesnt know whether they likes him or not, and
that maked him nervous, so he behaves like a ****, and they dont like
him, and then he knows where he stands you see'



--
Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have
guns, why should we let them have ideas?

Josef Stalin
  #47   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 09/11/2018 11:49, Jonathan wrote:
On Thursday, 8 November 2018 18:26:30 UTC, Andy Burns wrote:
GB wrote:

I'm a huge fan of 1strike.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-O.../dp/B001326TJA

It says 'no sanding'. I'm not convinced about that, but you do just bung
it in the hole, and it stays put without sagging.


I like it too, rake out the hole, fill it once relatively roughly as
deep as it takes in one go, give it an hour or two, tamp it down firmly
by thumb, give it another hour or two, then re-fill it level with a
filling knife, 24 hours to properly dry, minimal sanding and never had
the cracks open up again.


If the hole is very wide, rolled up damp newspaper can be used behind the filler.

Jonathan

I have now managed using thicker filler to do this in one. BUT the
'minimal sanding' is still a lot and very arduous.


--
Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have
guns, why should we let them have ideas?

Josef Stalin
  #48   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 09/11/2018 12:37, alan_m wrote:
On 09/11/2018 11:27, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

The only other option I can think of for sanding right to an edge
that can also achieve a good finish, is a linear action sander. These
aree far less common than orbital or RoS machines. Festool do one:

https://www.festool.co.uk/products/s...q-plus-gb-240v


For hand sanding near an edge I find the wet/dry paper bonded to a
fairly firm sponge works well. Being wet/dry if it clogs with plaster
dust it can be rinsed out for reuse.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p84314

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flexovit-...ack-of-6/70902


one wide side plus one narrow side is one grade of paper while the other
two side are a different grade of paper.

My old permeagrit is essentially that. I am going to use my newer one
because the old one is 'plumb wore out' - which shows how much its been
used as both wood ceramic and metal file..

I think having recieved all the good advice, that that is as good as it
will get for the 'irreducible residue' of sanding...


--
Karl Marx said religion is the opium of the people.
But Marxism is the crack cocaine.
  #49   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 09/11/2018 15:51, Andrew wrote:
On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler betweenÂ* oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the
ends off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted
20 mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG


Any adviceÂ* welcomed.



What is the British obsession with brown wood on the inside of the
house ?.


A matter of personal taste

Just overboard with fireproof plaster and have it skimmed. Use the
void between the beams to hide downlighters and wiring.

If I had wanted it to look that way I wouldnt have used oak in the first
place.


If you must keep them on show, just dont bother with masking.
fill the cracks with Wickes white and fine surface filler and
then have the beams sandblasted back to bare wood, which will
remove any plaster overspill.


It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state last time


--
Karl Marx said religion is the opium of the people.
But Marxism is the crack cocaine.
  #50   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 09/11/2018 18:27, Andrew wrote:
On 09/11/2018 18:11, Roger Hayter wrote:
Andrew wrote:

On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler betweenÂ* oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the
ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...icture=Kitchen

/scv_15410864578302304584964064881918.jpg

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...icture=Kitchen

/DSC_0003.JPG


Any adviceÂ* welcomed.



What is the British obsession with brown wood on the inside of the
house ?.

Just overboard with fireproof plaster and have it skimmed. Use the
void between the beams to hide downlighters and wiring.

If you must keep them on show, just dont bother with masking.
fill the cracks with Wickes white and fine surface filler and
then have the beams sandblasted back to bare wood, which will
remove any plaster overspill.


When the bottom of your ceiling joists is around 1900mm (and I've seen
lower than ours) you need the space between a few inches higher.

What for ?.

If you're going to bang your head on any of the beams then you
bought the wrong house.

Built.

No, there was a planning issue with the overall height. I am down on the
minimum.

And the main cross beams being 12" deep are a shade below and almoost
head bang territory for tall friends
..


Mind you, ours are painted off-white, to get a bit of light in.




--
Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have
guns, why should we let them have ideas?

Josef Stalin


  #51   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 01:25, wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/11/2018 12:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 12:34:41 UTC, John Rumm wrote:


Take one reciprocating saw, and a medium length old blade, plus a
block of wood say 6" x 3" x 1/2".

Use the saw to cut a kerf into the middle of the wide surface of
the block, and then epoxy the *back* of the blade into that kerf to
that it is held at a slight angle to the blade. Pop the blade in
the saw, and you now have a linear{1] reciprocating sanding block.
A bit like:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...dingLashup.png


[1] Because of the slight angle there will be a component of
verticle movement as well - so you will get a bit of vibration...

you won't get a bit of vibration from that picture you'll get failure
to contact 90% of the time. That can be greatly improved by the block
being at 90 degrees to the blade so the blade bends sideways every
stroke. Even better, mount it properly so no bending is required.


Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You could also
round the face of the sanding block slightly to ensure that there is
always a (moving) point of contact.


that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade movement.


That certainly *would* work... think about it.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #52   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 07:18, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 09/11/2018 18:27, Andrew wrote:
On 09/11/2018 18:11, Roger Hayter wrote:


When the bottom of your ceiling joists is around 1900mm (and I've seen
lower than ours) you need the space between a few inches higher.

What for ?.

If you're going to bang your head on any of the beams then you
bought the wrong house.

Built.

No, there was a planning issue with the overall height. I am down on the
minimum.


Do I recall correctly you rebuilt it on the same site as a previous
house? Presumably that might make them want to limit it to not taller
than the original, which if its old enough would likely be quite short.
When you then add modern joist depth requirements, you potentially have
more of a headroom problem.

And the main cross beams being 12" deep are a shade below and almoost
head bang territory for tall friends


Yup, I have that problem at my Aunt's place over near Clair - mostly ok
downstairs, but I have to take great care walking about upstairs, there
is something waiting to clomp you at every turn!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #53   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,364
Default best tool for this job?

On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/11/2018 12:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 12:34:41 UTC, John Rumm wrote:


Take one reciprocating saw, and a medium length old blade, plus a
block of wood say 6" x 3" x 1/2".

Use the saw to cut a kerf into the middle of the wide surface of
the block, and then epoxy the *back* of the blade into that kerf to
that it is held at a slight angle to the blade. Pop the blade in
the saw, and you now have a linear{1] reciprocating sanding block.
A bit like:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...dingLashup.png


[1] Because of the slight angle there will be a component of
verticle movement as well - so you will get a bit of vibration...

you won't get a bit of vibration from that picture you'll get failure
to contact 90% of the time. That can be greatly improved by the block
being at 90 degrees to the blade so the blade bends sideways every
stroke. Even better, mount it properly so no bending is required.

Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You could also
round the face of the sanding block slightly to ensure that there is
always a (moving) point of contact.


that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade movement.


That certainly *would* work... think about it.


Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only presume we have a miscommunication going on.


NT
  #54   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 14:05, wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:


Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You could also
round the face of the sanding block slightly to ensure that there is
always a (moving) point of contact.

that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade movement.


That certainly *would* work... think about it.


Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only presume we have a miscommunication going on.


Quite likely... Perhaps a drawing will help (excuse the crudity of the
model):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/b/b...SandingPad.png

So I am going to assume that the back end of the saw stays roughly in
place, since that is where its being held and the trigger pulled etc.

The longitudinal movement of the saw and hence pad is on a slightly
inclined plane[1], so there will be a small vertical component of the
pads movement. As the stroke shortens, the natural movement would thus
tend to pull the pad out of contact with the ceiling. However upward
pressure exerted by the operator will keep it in contact. This will mean
that there is some rotation around the pivot point of the tool, and thus
by extension some rotation of the pad as well. A completely flat pad
could therefore only ever be in full contact at exactly one angle -
tending to ride on the trailing or leading edges at any other angle.
Adding the slight radius means that there will always be part of the pad
that is co-planar with the ceiling.




[1] You could eliminate this with a pad thick enough to allow the body
of the saw to be held horizontaly, but still clear of the ceiling -
however this would add mass to the pad, and more vibration felt on the
tool.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #55   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state last time


Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an angle
drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


  #56   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,681
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state last
time


Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an angle
drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


It may be because I'd assumed TNP was using a lightweight filler but I'm
hearing a distant cockney voice saying something about only blowing the
doors off

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid
  #57   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,364
Default best tool for this job?

On Saturday, 10 November 2018 16:19:51 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 14:05, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:


Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You could also
round the face of the sanding block slightly to ensure that there is
always a (moving) point of contact.

that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade movement.

That certainly *would* work... think about it.


Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only presume we have a miscommunication going on.


Quite likely... Perhaps a drawing will help (excuse the crudity of the
model):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/b/b...SandingPad.png

So I am going to assume that the back end of the saw stays roughly in
place, since that is where its being held and the trigger pulled etc.

The longitudinal movement of the saw and hence pad is on a slightly
inclined plane[1], so there will be a small vertical component of the
pads movement. As the stroke shortens, the natural movement would thus
tend to pull the pad out of contact with the ceiling. However upward
pressure exerted by the operator will keep it in contact. This will mean
that there is some rotation around the pivot point of the tool, and thus
by extension some rotation of the pad as well. A completely flat pad
could therefore only ever be in full contact at exactly one angle -
tending to ride on the trailing or leading edges at any other angle.
Adding the slight radius means that there will always be part of the pad
that is co-planar with the ceiling.




[1] You could eliminate this with a pad thick enough to allow the body
of the saw to be held horizontaly, but still clear of the ceiling -
however this would add mass to the pad, and more vibration felt on the
tool.


So you plan to have your hand bobbing the tool up & down at the necessary rate to keep the pad touching the ceiling. Good luck with that! I certainly won't be trying it.


NT
  #58   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state last
time


Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an angle
drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


yep. File sanders or finger sanders. But the cheap ones are crap.



--
"I guess a rattlesnake ain't risponsible fer bein' a rattlesnake, but ah
puts mah heel on um jess the same if'n I catches him around mah chillun".

  #59   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 16:27, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state last
time


Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an angle
drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


It may be because I'd assumed TNP was using a lightweight filler but I'm
hearing a distant cockney voice saying something about only blowing the
doors off

polyfilla is currently in use.



--
"I guess a rattlesnake ain't risponsible fer bein' a rattlesnake, but ah
puts mah heel on um jess the same if'n I catches him around mah chillun".

  #60   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 16:55, wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 16:19:51 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 14:05, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:


Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You
could also round the face of the sanding block slightly to
ensure that there is always a (moving) point of contact.

that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade
movement.

That certainly *would* work... think about it.

Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only
presume we have a miscommunication going on.


Quite likely... Perhaps a drawing will help (excuse the crudity of
the model):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/b/b...SandingPad.png

So I am going to assume that the back end of the saw stays roughly
in place, since that is where its being held and the trigger pulled
etc.

The longitudinal movement of the saw and hence pad is on a
slightly inclined plane[1], so there will be a small vertical
component of the pads movement. As the stroke shortens, the natural
movement would thus tend to pull the pad out of contact with the
ceiling. However upward pressure exerted by the operator will keep
it in contact. This will mean that there is some rotation around
the pivot point of the tool, and thus by extension some rotation of
the pad as well. A completely flat pad could therefore only ever be
in full contact at exactly one angle - tending to ride on the
trailing or leading edges at any other angle. Adding the slight
radius means that there will always be part of the pad that is
co-planar with the ceiling.




[1] You could eliminate this with a pad thick enough to allow the
body of the saw to be held horizontaly, but still clear of the
ceiling - however this would add mass to the pad, and more
vibration felt on the tool.


So you plan to have your hand bobbing the tool up & down at the
necessary rate to keep the pad touching the ceiling. Good luck with
that! I certainly won't be trying it.


So you agree it will work then...

(Do the sums and you will see the actual amount of movement vertically
is pretty small... in use it will be similar to using the saw to plunge
cut through a surface)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


  #61   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 17:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:27, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state
last time

Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an
angle drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


It may be because I'd assumed TNP was using a lightweight filler but
I'm hearing a distant cockney voice saying something about only
blowing the doors off

polyfilla is currently in use.


I find the filler designed for filling taper edge boards is *much*
easier to sand nicely (and quickly) than polyfiller.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #62   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 17:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state last
time


Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an angle
drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


yep. File sanders or finger sanders. But the cheap ones are crap.


The problem I have with those on applications like this, is that you are
sanding just with the nose of the belt, and its very difficult to keep a
level cut - you tend to get undulations in the sanded surface because
they are too narrow to index off the flat reference surface beside the
bit you are sanding...

Something like the larger drum he

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p15110

Will give you a wide reference surface contact - although you will still
have to keep the drill moving to avoid ripples in the surface.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #63   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,364
Default best tool for this job?

On Saturday, 10 November 2018 17:44:05 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 16:19:51 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 14:05, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:

Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You
could also round the face of the sanding block slightly to
ensure that there is always a (moving) point of contact.

that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade
movement.

That certainly *would* work... think about it.

Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only
presume we have a miscommunication going on.

Quite likely... Perhaps a drawing will help (excuse the crudity of
the model):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/b/b...SandingPad.png

So I am going to assume that the back end of the saw stays roughly
in place, since that is where its being held and the trigger pulled
etc.

The longitudinal movement of the saw and hence pad is on a
slightly inclined plane[1], so there will be a small vertical
component of the pads movement. As the stroke shortens, the natural
movement would thus tend to pull the pad out of contact with the
ceiling. However upward pressure exerted by the operator will keep
it in contact. This will mean that there is some rotation around
the pivot point of the tool, and thus by extension some rotation of
the pad as well. A completely flat pad could therefore only ever be
in full contact at exactly one angle - tending to ride on the
trailing or leading edges at any other angle. Adding the slight
radius means that there will always be part of the pad that is
co-planar with the ceiling.




[1] You could eliminate this with a pad thick enough to allow the
body of the saw to be held horizontaly, but still clear of the
ceiling - however this would add mass to the pad, and more
vibration felt on the tool.


So you plan to have your hand bobbing the tool up & down at the
necessary rate to keep the pad touching the ceiling. Good luck with
that! I certainly won't be trying it.


So you agree it will work then...


obviously I didn't.


(Do the sums and you will see the actual amount of movement vertically
is pretty small... in use it will be similar to using the saw to plunge
cut through a surface)


Why don't you get back to us when you've tried it.


NT
  #64   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 19:41, wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 17:44:05 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 16:19:51 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 14:05, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:

Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You
could also round the face of the sanding block slightly to
ensure that there is always a (moving) point of contact.

that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade
movement.

That certainly *would* work... think about it.

Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only
presume we have a miscommunication going on.

Quite likely... Perhaps a drawing will help (excuse the crudity of
the model):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/b/b...SandingPad.png

So I am going to assume that the back end of the saw stays roughly
in place, since that is where its being held and the trigger pulled
etc.

The longitudinal movement of the saw and hence pad is on a
slightly inclined plane[1], so there will be a small vertical
component of the pads movement. As the stroke shortens, the natural
movement would thus tend to pull the pad out of contact with the
ceiling. However upward pressure exerted by the operator will keep
it in contact. This will mean that there is some rotation around
the pivot point of the tool, and thus by extension some rotation of
the pad as well. A completely flat pad could therefore only ever be
in full contact at exactly one angle - tending to ride on the
trailing or leading edges at any other angle. Adding the slight
radius means that there will always be part of the pad that is
co-planar with the ceiling.




[1] You could eliminate this with a pad thick enough to allow the
body of the saw to be held horizontaly, but still clear of the
ceiling - however this would add mass to the pad, and more
vibration felt on the tool.

So you plan to have your hand bobbing the tool up & down at the
necessary rate to keep the pad touching the ceiling. Good luck with
that! I certainly won't be trying it.


So you agree it will work then...


obviously I didn't.


Well you should...

(Do the sums and you will see the actual amount of movement vertically
is pretty small... in use it will be similar to using the saw to plunge
cut through a surface)


Why don't you get back to us when you've tried it.


ok, and here are the results:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Inline_Sanding_Hack



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #65   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,080
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 17:45, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 17:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:27, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state
last time

Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an
angle drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


It may be because I'd assumed TNP was using a lightweight filler but
I'm hearing a distant cockney voice saying something about only
blowing the doors off

polyfilla is currently in use.


I find the filler designed for filling taper edge boards is *much*
easier to sand nicely (and quickly) than polyfiller.


I'll second that - especially the pre-mixed type.

SteveW




  #66   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,681
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 17:45, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 17:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:27, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state
last time

Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an
angle drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


It may be because I'd assumed TNP was using a lightweight filler but
I'm hearing a distant cockney voice saying something about only
blowing the doors off

polyfilla is currently in use.


I find the filler designed for filling taper edge boards is *much*
easier to sand nicely (and quickly) than polyfiller.


Yes, with that much ceiling and such wide holes I'd assumed something
easier to sand - and also cheaper. My last buy was 5kg Gyproc
Easi-Fill 20 for about £13.



--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid
  #67   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,364
Default best tool for this job?

On Saturday, 10 November 2018 23:10:12 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 19:41, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 17:44:05 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 16:19:51 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 14:05, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:

Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You
could also round the face of the sanding block slightly to
ensure that there is always a (moving) point of contact.

that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade
movement.

That certainly *would* work... think about it.

Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only
presume we have a miscommunication going on.

Quite likely... Perhaps a drawing will help (excuse the crudity of
the model):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/b/b...SandingPad.png

So I am going to assume that the back end of the saw stays roughly
in place, since that is where its being held and the trigger pulled
etc.

The longitudinal movement of the saw and hence pad is on a
slightly inclined plane[1], so there will be a small vertical
component of the pads movement. As the stroke shortens, the natural
movement would thus tend to pull the pad out of contact with the
ceiling. However upward pressure exerted by the operator will keep
it in contact. This will mean that there is some rotation around
the pivot point of the tool, and thus by extension some rotation of
the pad as well. A completely flat pad could therefore only ever be
in full contact at exactly one angle - tending to ride on the
trailing or leading edges at any other angle. Adding the slight
radius means that there will always be part of the pad that is
co-planar with the ceiling.




[1] You could eliminate this with a pad thick enough to allow the
body of the saw to be held horizontaly, but still clear of the
ceiling - however this would add mass to the pad, and more
vibration felt on the tool.

So you plan to have your hand bobbing the tool up & down at the
necessary rate to keep the pad touching the ceiling. Good luck with
that! I certainly won't be trying it.

So you agree it will work then...


obviously I didn't.


Well you should...

(Do the sums and you will see the actual amount of movement vertically
is pretty small... in use it will be similar to using the saw to plunge
cut through a surface)


Why don't you get back to us when you've tried it.


ok, and here are the results:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Inline_Sanding_Hack


So you accept (on the wiki) it's not suitable for the OP to sand his ceilings with, even after you improved the design by using a flat sanding pad. I'm done on this.


NT
  #68   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 11/11/2018 00:34, wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 23:10:12 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 19:41, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 17:44:05 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 16:19:51 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 14:05, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 13:06:42 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 01:25, tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 9 November 2018 17:09:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:

Having not tried, I don't know if it will be an issue. You
could also round the face of the sanding block slightly to
ensure that there is always a (moving) point of contact.

that certainly won't work. Look at the direction of the blade
movement.

That certainly *would* work... think about it.

Since it's so obvious it would not and could not I can only
presume we have a miscommunication going on.

Quite likely... Perhaps a drawing will help (excuse the crudity of
the model):

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/images/b/b...SandingPad.png

So I am going to assume that the back end of the saw stays roughly
in place, since that is where its being held and the trigger pulled
etc.

The longitudinal movement of the saw and hence pad is on a
slightly inclined plane[1], so there will be a small vertical
component of the pads movement. As the stroke shortens, the natural
movement would thus tend to pull the pad out of contact with the
ceiling. However upward pressure exerted by the operator will keep
it in contact. This will mean that there is some rotation around
the pivot point of the tool, and thus by extension some rotation of
the pad as well. A completely flat pad could therefore only ever be
in full contact at exactly one angle - tending to ride on the
trailing or leading edges at any other angle. Adding the slight
radius means that there will always be part of the pad that is
co-planar with the ceiling.




[1] You could eliminate this with a pad thick enough to allow the
body of the saw to be held horizontaly, but still clear of the
ceiling - however this would add mass to the pad, and more
vibration felt on the tool.

So you plan to have your hand bobbing the tool up & down at the
necessary rate to keep the pad touching the ceiling. Good luck with
that! I certainly won't be trying it.

So you agree it will work then...

obviously I didn't.


Well you should...

(Do the sums and you will see the actual amount of movement vertically
is pretty small... in use it will be similar to using the saw to plunge
cut through a surface)

Why don't you get back to us when you've tried it.


ok, and here are the results:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Inline_Sanding_Hack


So you accept (on the wiki) it's not suitable for the OP to sand his ceilings with,


I was not actually suggesting that it was a solution for the OP - just
exploring a possibility. I was responding to Robin's reposting of Bill's
original comment, about using sandpaper fixed to a multimaster blade.

I said: "Actually that gives me an idea for a poor man's festool style
linear action sander....".

Having now tried that idea and proved that it does work, I would
maintain that it does indeed give you a poor man's[1] linear sander.

[1] Now for the avoidance of doubt, by "poor man's" I mean a hack that
is austere in nature - it will do a similar job but with less finesse,
effectiveness, comfort and all that.

As a champion of the cheap tool, and hacked solution I would have
thought that would be right up your street?

even after you improved the design by using a flat sanding pad


The flat sanding pad is not an improvement - it would be better with a
slight curve so that it could maintain contact with the surface better
and not put excessive wear on the paper on the ends of the block like a
flat one does. However it was more than adequate to establish if the
idea works, how controllable it was, what the material removal rate was
like, and how bad the vibration was going to be.

I'm done on this.


We can live in hope...



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #69   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 23:35, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 17:45, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 17:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:27, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state
last time

Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an
angle drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


It may be because I'd assumed TNP was using a lightweight filler but
I'm hearing a distant cockney voice saying something about only
blowing the doors off

polyfilla is currently in use.


I find the filler designed for filling taper edge boards is *much*
easier to sand nicely (and quickly) than polyfiller.


Yes, with that much ceiling and such wide holes I'd assumed something
easier to sand - and also cheaper.Â*Â* My last buy was 5kg Gyproc
Easi-Fill 20 for about £13.



Tried that. Harder to sand than polyfilla, and a similar price





--
Canada is all right really, though not for the whole weekend.

"Saki"
  #70   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,257
Default best tool for this job?


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
news
On 08/11/2018 18:04, GB wrote:
Very nice house, by the way. Can we have some more pics of the views, please?


They will accumulate as the renovation progresses. My ex left it in a terrible state.


So she gained custody of the parrot then, by the looks of things.


michael adams

....




  #71   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 466
Default best tool for this job?

On 10/11/2018 23:10, John Rumm wrote:
8

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Inline_Sanding_Hack


Scary.
You might suggest grinding the teeth off or some fool will have their
hand off.


For the OP I can't see what's wrong with a normal random orbital sander
and putting a metal rule along the beam to stop it doing any damage.
Maybe cutting a strip of metal/plastic and wrapping it around the pad.



  #72   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,625
Default best tool for this job?

On 11/11/2018 03:08, John Rumm wrote:
On 11/11/2018 00:34, wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 23:10:12 UTC, John RummÂ* wrote:
On 10/11/2018 19:41, tabbypurr wrote:
On Saturday, 10 November 2018 17:44:05 UTC, John RummÂ* wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:55, tabbypurr wrote:


snip


So you plan to have your hand bobbing the tool up & down at the
necessary rate to keep the pad touching the ceiling. Good luck with
that! I certainly won't be trying it.

So you agree it will work then...

obviously I didn't.

Well you should...

(Do the sums and you will see the actual amount of movement vertically
is pretty small... in use it will be similar to using the saw to
plunge
cut through a surface)

Why don't you get back to us when you've tried it.

ok, and here are the results:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Inline_Sanding_Hack

So you accept (on the wiki) it's not suitable for the OP to sand his
ceilings with,


I was not actually suggesting that it was a solution for the OP - just
exploring a possibility. I was responding to Robin's reposting of Bill's
original comment, about using sandpaper fixed to a multimaster blade.

I said:Â* "Actually that gives me an idea for a poor man's festool style
linear action sander....".

Having now tried that idea and proved that it does work, I would
maintain that it does indeed give you a poor man's[1] linear sander.

[1] Now for the avoidance of doubt, by "poor man's" I mean a hack that
is austere in nature - it will do a similar job but with less finesse,
effectiveness, comfort and all that.

As a champion of the cheap tool, and hacked solution I would have
thought that would be right up your street?

even after you improved the design by using a flat sanding pad


The flat sanding pad is not an improvement - it would be better with a
slight curve so that it could maintain contact with the surface better
and not put excessive wear on the paper on the ends of the block like a
flat one does. However it was more than adequate to establish if the
idea works, how controllable it was, what the material removal rate was
like, and how bad the vibration was going to be.

I'm done on this.


We can live in hope...


Kudos for bothering to prove your point.
Diddums to tabby.
  #73   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,936
Default best tool for this job?

On Thursday, November 8, 2018 at 5:44:28 PM UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg
http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG

Any advice welcomed.


--
New Socialism consists essentially in being seen to have your heart in
the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
someone else's pocket.


Forgive a stupid question but why not insert fresh plaster board ?
  #74   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 11/11/2018 07:06, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/2018 23:35, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 17:45, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 17:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:27, Robin wrote:
On 10/11/2018 16:22, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/11/2018 07:17, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

It was the sandblasting that put the plaster in such a bad state
last time

Another sanding option that occurred to me, a sanding drum in an
angle drill, to create something akin to a powered abrasive roller.


It may be because I'd assumed TNP was using a lightweight filler
but I'm hearing a distant cockney voice saying something about only
blowing the doors off

polyfilla is currently in use.

I find the filler designed for filling taper edge boards is *much*
easier to sand nicely (and quickly) than polyfiller.


Yes, with that much ceiling and such wide holes I'd assumed something
easier to sand - and also cheaper.Â*Â* My last buy was 5kg Gyproc
Easi-Fill 20 for about £13.



Tried that. Harder to sand than polyfilla, and a similar price


The last one I used was IIRC:

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Joint...-10kg/p/224541

That sanded very easily and quickly.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #75   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 25,191
Default best tool for this job?

On 11/11/2018 09:37, dennis@home wrote:
On 10/11/2018 23:10, John Rumm wrote:
8

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Inline_Sanding_Hack


Scary.
You might suggest grinding the teeth off or some fool will have their
hand off.


As it turns out the tool with actually take the blade either way up, so
you could point them in a less aggressive looking direction. (using a
hacksaw blade might also be better!)

For the OP I can't see what's wrong with a normal random orbital sander
and putting a metal rule along the beam to stop it doing any damage.
Maybe cutting a strip of metal/plastic and wrapping it around the pad.


I would be content with my RoS[1], and just staying slightly shy of the
beam... although if you do hit it, its not going to do it any particular
damage. If you are left with a unsanded edge, then either a bead of
caulk over it, or a quick touch up with a multimaster style tool.


[1] Mirka CEROS 5" - I bought it mainly for woodwork, but its the sander
of choice for many pro decorators because its small, light, and very
easy to use in any orientation, and when combined with their Abranet
sanding sheets and a decent extractor does an almost totally effective
job collecting the dust:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RS17ZoCpHrU

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


  #76   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 39,563
Default best tool for this job?

On 11/11/2018 12:40, fred wrote:
On Thursday, November 8, 2018 at 5:44:28 PM UTC, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler between oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the ends
off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted 20
mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.


The job is as you can see here..

http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...4064881918.jpg
http://www.larksrise.com/Project%20P...n/DSC_0003.JPG

Any advice welcomed.


--
New Socialism consists essentially in being seen to have your heart in
the right place whilst your head is in the clouds and your hand is in
someone else's pocket.


Forgive a stupid question but why not insert fresh plaster board ?

Because it would take even longer and STILL need skimming


--
Microsoft : the best reason to go to Linux that ever existed.
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best tool for the job Pt13 Simon Mason UK diy 104 December 29th 16 02:18 PM
Best tool for the job Pt 12 Simon Mason UK diy 12 December 19th 16 09:02 PM
One job, that's all you had to do, just one job! Broadland Wanderer UK diy 24 February 18th 13 08:05 PM
Searching for Job? Get the Job Hunting Pack Today samir debnath UK diy 0 March 8th 10 11:16 AM
Searching for Job? Get the Job Hunting Pack Today samir debnath UK diy 0 February 25th 10 12:37 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:22 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"