On Friday, 9 November 2018 12:34:41 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 09/11/2018 11:35, Robin wrote:
On 08/11/2018 17:44, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I am faced with masking filling and sanding plater/filler betweenÂ* oak
beams that have shrink

Its proving a monumental task, esp. the sanding

Mt orbital sander tears the masking tape and its prone to grind the
ends off the sheet of abrasive if it gets too close to a wall.

I bought a 'palm' sander from Wickes for £15 his morning,. It lasted
20 mins before the sanding pad fell off and the Velcro underneath got
buggered. I took it back and got a refund.




I may have missed it in this thread but Bill Wright suggested recently

"Wrap a bit of sandpaper round a multitool blade and secure with a dab
of superglue. Makes a detail sanding finger that will reach into places
other sanding solutions can't reach!"

I've not had cause to try it yet so please look North if it brings the
ceiling down

Actually that gives me an idea for a poor man's festool style linear
action sander....

Take one reciprocating saw, and a medium length old blade, plus a block
of wood say 6" x 3" x 1/2".

Use the saw to cut a kerf into the middle of the wide surface of the
block, and then epoxy the *back* of the blade into that kerf to that it
is held at a slight angle to the blade. Pop the blade in the saw, and
you now have a linear{1] reciprocating sanding block. A bit like:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...dingLashup.png


[1] Because of the slight angle there will be a component of verticle
movement as well - so you will get a bit of vibration...

you won't get a bit of vibration from that picture you'll get failure to contact 90% of the time. That can be greatly improved by the block being at 90 degrees to the blade so the blade bends sideways every stroke. Even better, mount it properly so no bending is required.


NT