Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or instructions. Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the floor. The holes are vertical so doesn't look like it needs those plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it moves a little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?

Thanks

Lee

wrote in message
...

Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or instructions.
Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the floor. The holes are
vertical so doesn't look like it needs those plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing
holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it moves a
little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?

Thanks

Lee

I fitted one on the ceramic tiled floor of the loo in my workshop by seating
it on a generous dollop of silicone caulking. No screws at all. Still
holding firm 7 years later

Andrew

Wrote in message:
Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or instructions. Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the floor. The holes are vertical so doesn't look like it needs those plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it moves a little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?

Thanks

Lee


Goggle
"
toilet pan fixing kit"
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 18/11/2017 08:37, wrote:
Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or instructions. Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the floor. The holes are vertical so doesn't look like it needs those plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it moves a little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?



It shouldn't move with the fixings in place unless it is screwed into
something that moves.

Use stainless steel screws - anything else (except brass) is likely to
rust over time, especially the screw head. Possibly not too much of a
problem until you want to remove the pan for maintenance purposes

Run a bead of silicone around the edge where it meets the floor - this
will stop substances where the aim is not too good from running under
the pan where you cannot clean. It will also help holding the pan in
position.

Pan fixing kits often come with a plastic sleeve for the screw so that
the screw treads don't touch the porcelain and a plastic cover that
hides the screw head once fixed.


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In message , alan_m
writes

Use stainless steel screws - anything else (except brass) is likely to
rust over time, especially the screw head. Possibly not too much of a
problem until you want to remove the pan for maintenance purposes

The one I removed a couple of weeks ago was held by four brass screws
only, and had been solid in use, since 1979. The screws came out
easily, and the pan itself then just lifted off the floor. Were I
replacing it, I would, as Alan suggests, run a bead of silicone around
the base.
--
Graeme

On 18/11/2017 10:30, Graeme wrote:
In message , alan_m
writes

Use stainless steel screws - anything else (except brass) is likely to
rust over time, especially the screw head. Possibly not too much of a
problem until you want to remove the pan for maintenance purposes

The one I removed a couple of weeks ago was held by four brass screws
only, and had been solid in use, since 1979.Â* The screws came out
easily, and the pan itself then just lifted off the floor.Â* Were I
replacing it, I would, as Alan suggests, run a bead of silicone around
the base.

I once bought some brass screws to fit a toilet pan to find years later
that the were brass plated screws (or brass coloured metal plated) and
the heads under the plastic cover were so corroded that the head had to
be drilled out.

--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In message , alan_m
writes

I once bought some brass screws to fit a toilet pan to find years later
that the were brass plated screws (or brass coloured metal plated) and
the heads under the plastic cover were so corroded that the head had to
be drilled out.

grin Brass plated screws are horrible things. The ones I removed
from the pan are real brass and will go through my little tumbler for
reuse, good as new.
--
Graeme

Thanks very much all.

On 18/11/17 08:37, wrote:
Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or instructions. Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the floor. The holes are vertical so doesn't look like it needs those plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it moves a little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?

Thanks

Lee


Rubber washer or plastic cup/dome under the screw head is always used.
You should have got some with the loo - but tap washers work. Don't go
mental and use brass or stainless screws.

On 18/11/17 08:48, Andrew Mawson wrote:
wrote in message
...

Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or
instructions. Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the
floor. The holes are vertical so doesn't look like it needs those
plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing
holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it
moves a little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?

Thanks

Lee

I fitted one on the ceramic tiled floor of the loo in my workshop by
seating it on a generous dollop of silicone caulking. No screws at all.
Still holding firm 7 years later

Andrew

8 years

But my loo has a very long (12") and wide base. I would not fancy it
with a small footed lav.

On 18/11/2017 10:45, alan_m wrote:

snip

I once bought some brass screws to fit a toilet pan to find years later
that the were brass plated screws (or brass coloured metal plated) and
the heads under the plastic cover were so corroded that the head had to
be drilled out.

Yes, check with a magnet.

Cheers
--
Clive

wrote in message
...
Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or instructions.
Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the floor. The holes are
vertical so doesn't look like it needs those plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing
holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it moves a
little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?

Thanks

Lee


the Burgh Police Scotland Act requires four brass screws ............. but
things have gone down the toilet since then ...

On 18/11/17 11:29, wrote:
Thanks very much all.
It's still my experience that, however well you fix it down, after
having had a few too many down the pub, the bloody bowl still wanders
all over the place. Funnily enough, the fault usually corrects itself by
morning.

Nick

replying to leenowell, Iggy wrote:
All good advice so far. The "trick" with screwing toilets is to just get them
solid, this is far from as tight as the screw can go and really just snug.
Thick Washers are a must and just start by sending the screws (pan heads) in
to where they start to snag the washers, this is likely all you will need for
a rock solid toilet. You'll have a few turns left in each screw, that won't
threaten the porcelain, for any future re-tightening.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...r-1250494-.htm

On 18/11/2017 11:02, Graeme wrote:
In message , alan_m
writes

I once bought some brass screws to fit a toilet pan to find years
later that the were brass plated screws (or brass coloured metal
plated) and the heads under the plastic cover were so corroded that
the head had to be drilled out.

grinÂ* Brass plated screws are horrible things.Â* The ones I removed
from the pan are real brass and will go through my little tumbler for
reuse, good as new.

But even real brass screws will corrode in the presence of bleach, and
slotted ones are a PITA if they get chewed. These days I *always* use
Pozidrive stainless.

On 18/11/2017 10:30, Graeme wrote:
In message , alan_m
writes

Use stainless steel screws - anything else (except brass) is likely to
rust over time, especially the screw head. Possibly not too much of a
problem until you want to remove the pan for maintenance purposes

The one I removed a couple of weeks ago was held by four brass screws
only, and had been solid in use, since 1979.Â* The screws came out
easily, and the pan itself then just lifted off the floor.Â* Were I
replacing it, I would, as Alan suggests, run a bead of silicone around
the base.

Mine is fitted with brass screws (1976) into the chipboard floor.
Not sure if there is a noggin below, but judging by the creaking
noise from that area, I suspect not.

On 18/11/2017 11:02, Graeme wrote:
In message , alan_m
writes

I once bought some brass screws to fit a toilet pan to find years
later that the were brass plated screws (or brass coloured metal
plated) and the heads under the plastic cover were so corroded that
the head had to be drilled out.

grinÂ* Brass plated screws are horrible things.Â* The ones I removed
from the pan are real brass and will go through my little tumbler for
reuse, good as new.

Always keep a small magnet to check such things.

I am now checking all my 1p and 2p pieces and saving the non-ferrous
ones for potential DIY usages.

PS I tried to put a 10p piece into the auto cash machine in the
supermarket yesterday and after much whirring it spat it out.

Tried time and time again but no success.

Today I looked more closely and although it looks like
a 10p piece, it says AUSTRALIA !!. It's a 10 cent piece but
fooled me.

On 18/11/2017 19:45, newshound wrote:

and
slotted ones are a PITA if they get chewed.

I replaced a sink waste today - complete PITA - it was held with a
single slotted screw where the slot was so shallow that the screwdrivers
wouldn't hold/grip. I had to resort to long nodes pliers rammed down the
holes in the strainer and some water pump pliers the other side of the
sink to turn the fitting. All done with the sink still in situ.


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In message ,
newshound writes
On 18/11/2017 11:02, Graeme wrote:

grin* Brass plated screws are horrible things.* The ones I removed
from the pan are real brass and will go through my little tumbler for
reuse, good as new.

But even real brass screws will corrode in the presence of bleach, and
slotted ones are a PITA if they get chewed. These days I *always* use
Pozidrive stainless.

This is a Victorian house, and any form of cross head screw just looks
wrong. I have used them though, where they can't be seen, but for any
with the head visible, I use slotted, brass if possible. Having said
that, I often use Pozi initially, then change to cross head brass,
because the Pozi is easier to drive initially.

--
Graeme

On Sat, 18 Nov 2017 22:15:29 +0000, Graeme wrote:

In message ,
newshound writes
On 18/11/2017 11:02, Graeme wrote:

grinÂ* Brass plated screws are horrible things.Â* The ones I removed
from the pan are real brass and will go through my little tumbler for
reuse, good as new.

But even real brass screws will corrode in the presence of bleach, and
slotted ones are a PITA if they get chewed. These days I *always* use
Pozidrive stainless.

This is a Victorian house, and any form of cross head screw just looks
wrong. I have used them though, where they can't be seen, but for any
with the head visible, I use slotted, brass if possible. Having said
that, I often use Pozi initially, then change to cross head brass,
because the Pozi is easier to drive initially.

Where do you get cross head brass? I've been looking...

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
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On Sat, 18 Nov 2017 19:45:00 +0000, newshound wrote:

On 18/11/2017 11:02, Graeme wrote:
In message , alan_m
writes

I once bought some brass screws to fit a toilet pan to find years
later that the were brass plated screws (or brass coloured metal
plated) and the heads under the plastic cover were so corroded that
the head had to be drilled out.

grin* Brass plated screws are horrible things.* The ones I removed
from the pan are real brass and will go through my little tumbler for
reuse, good as new.

But even real brass screws will corrode in the presence of bleach, and
slotted ones are a PITA if they get chewed. These days I *always* use
Pozidrive stainless.

I used 6mm st. st. coach screws with hex. head. Carefully filed the head to
a dome, leaving enough hex. for a good box spanner (socket has lead-in, so
needs more hex.) to fit on to.
From above it looks like a round-head screw but with no slot or cross.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

In message , Bob Eager
writes
On Sat, 18 Nov 2017 22:15:29 +0000, Graeme wrote:

This is a Victorian house, and any form of cross head screw just looks
wrong. I have used them though, where they can't be seen, but for any
with the head visible, I use slotted, brass if possible. Having said
that, I often use Pozi initially, then change to cross head brass,
because the Pozi is easier to drive initially.

Where do you get cross head brass? I've been looking...

Typo alert. Sorry. I sometimes use a Pozi first, then replace with a
slot head brass screw.

--
Graeme

On Saturday, November 18, 2017 at 8:47:40 AM UTC, Andrew Mawson wrote:
wrote in message
...

Hi All

I have a new toilet to fit and it came with no fittings or instructions.
Judging by it, it should be screwed directly into the floor. The holes are
vertical so doesn't look like it needs those plastic block things.

I am conscious that the screws will be seen and it is the only thing
holding it down so worried about the screws cracking the pan as it moves a
little. Are there special fittings for this type of installation?

Thanks

Lee

I fitted one on the ceramic tiled floor of the loo in my workshop by seating
it on a generous dollop of silicone caulking. No screws at all. Still
holding firm 7 years later

Andrew

+1 from me - in fact +2 as both my pans are held in place this way, and have been since 1990.
Rob

On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 08:34:19 +0000, Graeme wrote:

In message , Bob Eager
writes
On Sat, 18 Nov 2017 22:15:29 +0000, Graeme wrote:

This is a Victorian house, and any form of cross head screw just looks
wrong. I have used them though, where they can't be seen, but for any
with the head visible, I use slotted, brass if possible. Having said
that, I often use Pozi initially, then change to cross head brass,
because the Pozi is easier to drive initially.

Where do you get cross head brass? I've been looking...

Typo alert. Sorry. I sometimes use a Pozi first, then replace with a
slot head brass screw.

I assume they just don't work. Would be nice though.

--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor