I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.

rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

There is often very little reserve material on a modern brake drum.
When I have had a lip - usually of rust - I mount the drum on the car
back to front and then manually rotate the drum whilst holding an angle
grinder against the offending lip. A bit of care and it soon done and no
risk of run-out as the braking surfaces are untouched.

On 27/03/17 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

Yep. I think new drums are around the £60 a pair for most cars and that
hardly covers getting them on a lathe.



--
"Corbyn talks about equality, justice, opportunity, health care, peace,
community, compassion, investment, security, housing...."
"What kind of person is not interested in those things?"

"Jeremy Corbyn?"

On 27/03/2017 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim



Yes .... a lot of money .. as its drums & studs & front & rear roller
bearings & seals

On 27/03/2017 13:00, Bob Minchin wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

There is often very little reserve material on a modern brake drum.
When I have had a lip - usually of rust - I mount the drum on the car
back to front and then manually rotate the drum whilst holding an angle
grinder against the offending lip. A bit of care and it soon done and no
risk of run-out as the braking surfaces are untouched.


The lip is on the outer face, i.e at bearing end and due to only being
8" hubs ... would not be able to get in with a grinder.

On 3/27/2017 1:00 PM, Bob Minchin wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

There is often very little reserve material on a modern brake drum.
When I have had a lip - usually of rust - I mount the drum on the car
back to front and then manually rotate the drum whilst holding an angle
grinder against the offending lip. A bit of care and it soon done and no
risk of run-out as the braking surfaces are untouched.

That would be my suggestion too. Never done it with drums, but have for
brake disks that are still comfortably in "spec" (running on idle in
first gear).

On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 27/03/17 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

Yep. I think new drums are around the £60 a pair for most cars and that
hardly covers getting them on a lathe.


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

These are not anywhere near £60 a pair ... but in region of £256 a pair
.... so to replace all 4 and add in bearing & seals would be around £550


So you can see why I would like to skim rather than replace.
https://www.towingandtrailers.com/pr...brian-james-2/


Watched a TV programme recently where a guy made an AK47 in a tin shed
in Afghanistan, on a foot powered lathe, but getting engineering work in
UK ... is not easy.
Progress eh ?

On 27/03/2017 14:31, rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 13:00, Bob Minchin wrote:
Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

There is often very little reserve material on a modern brake drum.
When I have had a lip - usually of rust - I mount the drum on the car
back to front and then manually rotate the drum whilst holding an angle
grinder against the offending lip. A bit of care and it soon done and no
risk of run-out as the braking surfaces are untouched.


The lip is on the outer face, i.e at bearing end and due to only being
8" hubs ... would not be able to get in with a grinder.

If its only the lip at the open end of the drum that needs removing then
you should be able to get away with using a grinding wheel in a power
drill. As long as you don't touch the existing area contacted by the
shoes you shouldn't have any issues.

Mike

rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 27/03/17 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

Yep. I think new drums are around the £60 a pair for most cars and that
hardly covers getting them on a lathe.


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

These are not anywhere near £60 a pair ... but in region of £256 a pair
... so to replace all 4 and add in bearing & seals would be around £550


So you can see why I would like to skim rather than replace.
https://www.towingandtrailers.com/pr...brian-james-2/



Watched a TV programme recently where a guy made an AK47 in a tin shed
in Afghanistan, on a foot powered lathe, but getting engineering work in
UK ... is not easy.
Progress eh ?

turn up a mandrill.

On 27/03/2017 14:46, Jethro_uk wrote:
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:42:28 +0100, rick wrote:

On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
[quoted text muted]


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it,
and keep it concentric with centre bore.

You can't BTDTGTTS.



I have no idea what that means

On 27/03/2017 15:04, F Murtz wrote:
rick wrote:

I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.



turn up a mandrill.



My neighbour is going to see if he can come up with a way to mount it
..... the issue is its obviously going to be heavy - and needs a solid
fixing.

He is thinking of the way they mount large pipes to be turned .. using a
pipe centre.

On 27/03/2017 15:02, Muddymike wrote:


If its only the lip at the open end of the drum that needs removing then
you should be able to get away with using a grinding wheel in a power
drill. As long as you don't touch the existing area contacted by the
shoes you shouldn't have any issues.

Mike


No it's a lip at the back (closed) end of the drum ... don't see a way
of getting in there with angle grinder.
OK could buy a die grinder and flexible shaft .. but result is not going
to be accurate or concentric.

What I need is some back street engineering shop who like these as cash
jobs for the boys .... that was way it used to be .... maybe they have
all gone.

On 27/03/2017 15:34, rick wrote:

I have no idea what that means
Been There, Done That, Got The T Shirt.

On 27/03/17 15:04, F Murtz wrote:
rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Watched a TV programme recently where a guy made an AK47 in a tin shed
in Afghanistan, on a foot powered lathe, but getting engineering work in
UK ... is not easy.
Progress eh ?

turn up a mandrill.

Weve got Rod and harry already.

http://justfunfacts.com/wp-content/u...ill-colors.jpg

Or did you mean 'mandrel' or possibly 'mandril'....???

--
"What do you think about Gay Marriage?"
"I don't."
"Don't what?"
"Think about Gay Marriage."

On 27/03/2017 11:44, rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.

Had a similar ptoblem with a Mk1 Mini in th elate 60s. Found a local
workshop who skimmed the drums AND provided a set of shimmed shoes. No
problems. I woiuld suggest that if you skim the drums you see if it is
nscessary th shim a set of shoes as well (in my case the linings were
rivited, not bonded)

Malcolm

Jethro_uk wrote:
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:42:28 +0100, rick wrote:

On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
[quoted text muted]


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it,
and keep it concentric with centre bore.

You can't BTDTGTTS.


Normally not a problem, use the central hole. Assuming normal chuck
jaws.Altenatively, reverse the chuck jaws and use outside of drum. A few
shims may be necessary.

On 27/03/2017 14:42, rick wrote:


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

Use the hub?

Three jaw with shims unless its an independent one.

On Monday, 27 March 2017 15:40:47 UTC+1, rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 15:02, Muddymike wrote:


If its only the lip at the open end of the drum that needs removing then
you should be able to get away with using a grinding wheel in a power
drill. As long as you don't touch the existing area contacted by the
shoes you shouldn't have any issues.

No it's a lip at the back (closed) end of the drum ... don't see a way
of getting in there with angle grinder.
OK could buy a die grinder and flexible shaft .. but result is not going
to be accurate or concentric.

What I need is some back street engineering shop who like these as cash
jobs for the boys .... that was way it used to be .... maybe they have
all gone.

Maybe one of those 1" or slightly bigger stones in a drill. I would have though that could produce adequate accuracy, but I may be wrong.

I don't think I'd be using first gear, you need a bit of speed to ensure a cut or grind isn't out of round.


NT

On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:42:28 +0100, rick
wrote:


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

You don't need a 4 jaw it's far quicker and more accurate to align off the
bearing recesses, there is no need to even clock the drums with this method.

Chuck a lump of round bar of say half inch bigger diameter than the lead in to
the drum bearing and maybe eight inches long

face and centre

Find the midpoint of the bar

Undercut say half an inch wide down to half inch diameter at this midpoint

Turn a 45 ish degree taper getting bigger towards the headstock from the
midpoint

Turn a 45 ish degree taper getting bigger towards the tailstock from the
midpoint

The angle is not critical nor does it need to be identical on the two halves

Do not remove the bar from the chuck until all drums are skimmed

Part off or cut at the midpoint with a hacksaw

Mount the drum between the two cones with a live or dead centre in the tailstock
keeping lots of pressure on the tailstock and ensuring it is locked.

Machine the drums

If you need to machine a drum later just mount the bar in the chuck and
remachine the taper, the other bar for the tailstock will not require any
further machining..

If you had a four jaw chuck then a parallel turned section clocked in would be
the quickest way to get the mandrel running true again.


--

On Monday, 27 March 2017 11:44:38 UTC+1, rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.

If it's just the lip, grind or file it off.
No big deal.

On Monday, 27 March 2017 14:42:31 UTC+1, rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 27/03/17 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

Yep. I think new drums are around the £60 a pair for most cars and that
hardly covers getting them on a lathe.


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

These are not anywhere near £60 a pair ... but in region of £256 a pair
... so to replace all 4 and add in bearing & seals would be around £550


So you can see why I would like to skim rather than replace.
https://www.towingandtrailers.com/pr...brian-james-2/


Watched a TV programme recently where a guy made an AK47 in a tin shed
in Afghanistan, on a foot powered lathe, but getting engineering work in
UK ... is not easy.
Progress eh ?

Simple. Put the centre hole on the OUTSIDE of the chuck jaws and tighten by moving the jaws outwards.
Check concenricity before machining the metal.
Doesn't your neighbour know this?

harry wrote in news:fdfe190f-3d17-4aab-8325-
:

On Monday, 27 March 2017 11:44:38 UTC+1, rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.

If it's just the lip, grind or file it off.
No big deal.


+1.

I could have done it by now. A decent half round file is all that is
needed. Used to to it routinely before disc brakes.

On Monday, 27 March 2017 11:44:38 UTC+1, rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.

Sorry - just realised you mean the lip at the back face end.

The lip is on the outer face, i.e at bearing end and due to only being
8" hubs ... would not be able to get in with a grinder.


It can't be a very wide lip, so why not remove some of the brake shoe? Even if you make the shoe 6mm narrower the braking won't be noticeably affected.

On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 11:44:38 AM UTC+1, rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.



.... On comments about using a grinder - just not easy when lip is at back edge.

I am not worried about skimming the 'contact face' though would be a 'nice to have' Just that if I fit 4 sets of shoes .... brakes will fit this lip before the braking face.

Simple. Put the centre hole on the OUTSIDE of the chuck jaws and tighten by moving the jaws outwards.
Check concenricity before machining the metal.
Doesn't your neighbour know this?

The jaws won't fit in the bore - it is too small.

Can't just reverse jaws and tighten on outside of drum as it would not be concentric with the bore- hence far better to do in 4-jaw chuck.
You could shim it ... but could take a long time, and even then may not be accurate.

Done it myself in past with 4 jaw chuck in a large DSG lathe- but no longer have access to that.



My neighbour (fitter machinist - so knows his stuff) is going to try tonight, to see if he can make up a jig to hold it, using a pipe centre.

The option on turning up a mandrel is valid - just he only has limited time each night to spend on this in his meal break.

On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 5:41:09 PM UTC+1, The Other Mike wrote:
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 14:42:28 +0100, rick
wrote:


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

You don't need a 4 jaw it's far quicker and more accurate to align off the
bearing recesses, there is no need to even clock the drums with this method.

Chuck a lump of round bar of say half inch bigger diameter than the lead in to
the drum bearing and maybe eight inches long

face and centre

Find the midpoint of the bar

Undercut say half an inch wide down to half inch diameter at this midpoint

Turn a 45 ish degree taper getting bigger towards the headstock from the
midpoint

Turn a 45 ish degree taper getting bigger towards the tailstock from the
midpoint

The angle is not critical nor does it need to be identical on the two halves

Do not remove the bar from the chuck until all drums are skimmed

Part off or cut at the midpoint with a hacksaw

Mount the drum between the two cones with a live or dead centre in the tailstock
keeping lots of pressure on the tailstock and ensuring it is locked.

Machine the drums

If you need to machine a drum later just mount the bar in the chuck and
remachine the taper, the other bar for the tailstock will not require any
further machining..

If you had a four jaw chuck then a parallel turned section clocked in would be
the quickest way to get the mandrel running true again.


--

Thanks ... I'll pass this on

On 27/03/2017 18:10, harry wrote:
On Monday, 27 March 2017 14:42:31 UTC+1, rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 27/03/17 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

Yep. I think new drums are around the £60 a pair for most cars and that
hardly covers getting them on a lathe.


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

These are not anywhere near £60 a pair ... but in region of £256 a pair
... so to replace all 4 and add in bearing & seals would be around £550


So you can see why I would like to skim rather than replace.
https://www.towingandtrailers.com/pr...brian-james-2/


Watched a TV programme recently where a guy made an AK47 in a tin shed
in Afghanistan, on a foot powered lathe, but getting engineering work in
UK ... is not easy.
Progress eh ?

Simple. Put the centre hole on the OUTSIDE of the chuck jaws and tighten by moving the jaws outwards.
Check concenricity before machining the metal.
Doesn't your neighbour know this?

My chuck couldn't cope with the small internal diameter, perhaps the
neighbour's chuck can't either?

On Monday, 27 March 2017 23:55:00 UTC+1, Fredxxx wrote:
On 27/03/2017 18:10, harry wrote:
On Monday, 27 March 2017 14:42:31 UTC+1, rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 13:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 27/03/17 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

Yep. I think new drums are around the £60 a pair for most cars and that
hardly covers getting them on a lathe.


I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have
a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount
it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

These are not anywhere near £60 a pair ... but in region of £256 a pair
... so to replace all 4 and add in bearing & seals would be around £550


So you can see why I would like to skim rather than replace.
https://www.towingandtrailers.com/pr...brian-james-2/


Watched a TV programme recently where a guy made an AK47 in a tin shed
in Afghanistan, on a foot powered lathe, but getting engineering work in
UK ... is not easy.
Progress eh ?

Simple. Put the centre hole on the OUTSIDE of the chuck jaws and tighten by moving the jaws outwards.
Check concenricity before machining the metal.
Doesn't your neighbour know this?

My chuck couldn't cope with the small internal diameter, perhaps the
neighbour's chuck can't either?

Must be a very small hole in the centre.
Three jaw chucks are stepped on the outside for this purpose.

On 28/03/2017 11:19, harry wrote:

Must be a very small hole in the centre.
Three jaw chucks are stepped on the outside for this purpose.


You can usually take them out and reverse them too.
Maybe someone has and that's why they are too big?

On Tuesday, 28 March 2017 15:00:09 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 28/03/2017 11:19, harry wrote:

Must be a very small hole in the centre.
Three jaw chucks are stepped on the outside for this purpose.


You can usually take them out and reverse them too.
Maybe someone has and that's why they are too big?

No.
Three jaw chucks are usually self centring and work with a scroll plate. You need a different set of jaws to reverse them.

Four jaw chucks usually have independent jaws on separate screw threads, they can be reversed.

On 27/03/2017 14:29, rick wrote:
On 27/03/2017 12:43, Tim+ wrote:
rick wrote:
I need to get a set of brake drums (8" not huge ones)
There is a lip inside each and need to get rid of this before I install
new shoes, and reassemble

Anybody know of anywhere in S.Wales that does this ... I am in Neath.


Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding
anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim



Yes .... a lot of money .. as its drums & studs & front & rear roller
bearings & seals


OK was lucky .. neighbour was able to turn up a mandrel and has skimmed
the first 2 .... 2 more to go.