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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

I brought in an outdoor forklift on pneumatic tires. It is not the one
that I bought for $500, but another one.

This outdoor one, runs good, but has nonworking brakes. Quick
investigation shows that brake system is full of air, and that brake
fluid is leaking from the right brake drum (I can see it leaking).

This is a Cat V50B LPG powered forklift.

Am I correct in assuming that a repair is simple, though not
necessarily easy, and likely amounts to replacing or fixing the brake
cylinder os some such?

i
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

Ignoramus18836 wrote:
I brought in an outdoor forklift on pneumatic tires. It is not the one
that I bought for $500, but another one.

This outdoor one, runs good, but has nonworking brakes. Quick
investigation shows that brake system is full of air, and that brake
fluid is leaking from the right brake drum (I can see it leaking).

This is a Cat V50B LPG powered forklift.

Am I correct in assuming that a repair is simple, though not
necessarily easy, and likely amounts to replacing or fixing the brake
cylinder os some such?


Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around

Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and
clear or does it have a green tinge?
The green is likely algae and needs to
be flushed out. I found algae in the
clutch cylinder on my truck. I flushed
the heck out of the system then replaced
both the master and clutch cylinders.
The parts were inexpensive.
Now the master cylinder is nice and clear.
The clutch works much more linearly and easily.

Recommend purchase a power bleeder.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MVP-0108
It will save you a *lot* of time and aggravation.
I spent my life doing it the old way and the
power bleeder makes the job almost a pleasure.

--Winston
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-02, Winston wrote:
Ignoramus18836 wrote:
I brought in an outdoor forklift on pneumatic tires. It is not the one
that I bought for $500, but another one.

This outdoor one, runs good, but has nonworking brakes. Quick
investigation shows that brake system is full of air, and that brake
fluid is leaking from the right brake drum (I can see it leaking).

This is a Cat V50B LPG powered forklift.

Am I correct in assuming that a repair is simple, though not
necessarily easy, and likely amounts to replacing or fixing the brake
cylinder os some such?


Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around


OK.

The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.

Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and clear or does it have a
green tinge?


Clean and clear.

The green is likely algae and needs to be flushed out.
I found algae in the clutch cylinder on my truck. I flushed the heck
out of the system then replaced both the master and clutch
cylinders. The parts were inexpensive. Now the master cylinder is
nice and clear. The clutch works much more linearly and easily.

Recommend purchase a power bleeder.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MVP-0108
It will save you a *lot* of time and aggravation.
I spent my life doing it the old way and the
power bleeder makes the job almost a pleasure.

--Winston


What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?

i
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 11/1/2011 8:03 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
....

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


OK on any I've seen.

I'm sure if you look you can find out anything you want/need to know
from Cat--they'll have parts diagrams, spec's, everything except
possibly service manuals online (we're all Green, but same is bound to
hold for yellow).

--
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-02, dpb wrote:
On 11/1/2011 8:03 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
...

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


OK on any I've seen.

I'm sure if you look you can find out anything you want/need to know
from Cat--they'll have parts diagrams, spec's, everything except
possibly service manuals online (we're all Green, but same is bound to
hold for yellow).

--


Here is a picture of it

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink


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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 11/1/2011 7:09 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
On 2011-11-02, wrote:
On 11/1/2011 8:03 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
...

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


OK on any I've seen.

I'm sure if you look you can find out anything you want/need to know
from Cat--they'll have parts diagrams, spec's, everything except
possibly service manuals online (we're all Green, but same is bound to
hold for yellow).

--


Here is a picture of it

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Anything CAT will run forever with maintenance. Go get yourself a full
3/4 inch socket set. Next month you will get something that requires a
1" set, but this will do for now!

Paul
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

Ignoramus18836 wrote:
On 2011-11-02, wrote:


(...)

Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around


OK.

The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


I agree with Paul.
This sounds like an excellent excuse to get that 1" drive socket
set you always wanted.

Buy a box of nitrile gloves, not the dissolving latex kind.
Brake work is really dirty. The asbestos dust is hazardous so
wear a respirator. Nobody will be looking at you.

A can of penetrating oil may be useful to soak the wheel cylinder
bolt and plumbing.

Resist the urge to clean the brakes with your air nozzle.
You really don't want anybody breathing that stuff.

Provide yourself *a lot* of ventilation.

Have a few cans of 'brake cleaner', a couple clean parts
brushes and your camera on hand when it is time to disassemble.
After washing down the brake mechanism, take pictures at
various angles at every step of disassembly so that you will
be able to reassemble everything properly. There is no such
thing as too many pictures when repairing brakes, especially
drum brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMYAORTwAHo

Pay careful attention to the springs and sheet metal
parts you encounter.
The springs really like to 'let go' at exactly the wrong
time, propelling parts underneath heavy work benches, so
stage your tools so that you can get at them comfortably
without having to stretch too much.

If you discover a cracked hose, put the tools down and get
the part on order.

Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and clear or does it have a
green tinge?


Clean and clear.


Good news!

(...)

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


As dpb notes, get the correct info from Cat.
(I see that brake fluid is up to 'DOT 5.1'.)

--Winston
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 11/1/2011 9:10 PM, Winston wrote:
Ignoramus18836 wrote:
On 2011-11-02, wrote:


(...)

Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around


OK.

The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


I agree with Paul.
This sounds like an excellent excuse to get that 1" drive socket
set you always wanted.

Buy a box of nitrile gloves, not the dissolving latex kind.
Brake work is really dirty. The asbestos dust is hazardous so
wear a respirator. Nobody will be looking at you.

A can of penetrating oil may be useful to soak the wheel cylinder
bolt and plumbing.

Resist the urge to clean the brakes with your air nozzle.
You really don't want anybody breathing that stuff.

Provide yourself *a lot* of ventilation.

Have a few cans of 'brake cleaner', a couple clean parts
brushes and your camera on hand when it is time to disassemble.
After washing down the brake mechanism, take pictures at
various angles at every step of disassembly so that you will
be able to reassemble everything properly. There is no such
thing as too many pictures when repairing brakes, especially
drum brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMYAORTwAHo

Pay careful attention to the springs and sheet metal
parts you encounter.
The springs really like to 'let go' at exactly the wrong
time, propelling parts underneath heavy work benches, so
stage your tools so that you can get at them comfortably
without having to stretch too much.

If you discover a cracked hose, put the tools down and get
the part on order.

Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and clear or does it have a
green tinge?


Clean and clear.


Good news!

(...)

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


As dpb notes, get the correct info from Cat.
(I see that brake fluid is up to 'DOT 5.1'.)

--Winston

Or....call your local fork lift service guy and watch how he fixes the
brakes!

Paul
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

Paul Drahn wrote:

(...)

Or....call your local fork lift service guy and watch how he fixes the
brakes!


Yes. That will keep the blood pressure down.

--Winston
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 11/1/2011 9:09 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
On 2011-11-02, wrote:
On 11/1/2011 8:03 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
...

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


OK on any I've seen.

I'm sure if you look you can find out anything you want/need to know
from Cat--they'll have parts diagrams, spec's, everything except
possibly service manuals online (we're all Green, but same is bound to
hold for yellow).

--


Here is a picture of it

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink


Turns out Cat isn't quite so easy as Deere--you have to pick a Cat
dealership and access the parts/service web site through their web site
portal. (Deere has open access to the parts books online w/o
registration.) But, while a pita initially, it's bound to be worth the
hassle if you have the machine and intend to do anything at all with it.

--


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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum


"Ignoramus18836" wrote in message
...
snip-

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?

i


Don't guess, and don't take anyone's word for the proper type fluid. Do
your homework to ensure you use the right one. They are not all compatible
with one another.

Harold

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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:

On 2011-11-02, Winston wrote:
Ignoramus18836 wrote:
I brought in an outdoor forklift on pneumatic tires. It is not the one
that I bought for $500, but another one.

This outdoor one, runs good, but has nonworking brakes. Quick
investigation shows that brake system is full of air, and that brake
fluid is leaking from the right brake drum (I can see it leaking).

This is a Cat V50B LPG powered forklift.

Am I correct in assuming that a repair is simple, though not
necessarily easy, and likely amounts to replacing or fixing the brake
cylinder os some such?


Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around


OK.

The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.

Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and clear or does it have a
green tinge?


Clean and clear.

The green is likely algae and needs to be flushed out.
I found algae in the clutch cylinder on my truck. I flushed the heck
out of the system then replaced both the master and clutch
cylinders. The parts were inexpensive. Now the master cylinder is
nice and clear. The clutch works much more linearly and easily.

Recommend purchase a power bleeder.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MVP-0108
It will save you a *lot* of time and aggravation.
I spent my life doing it the old way and the
power bleeder makes the job almost a pleasure.

--Winston


What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?

i


2nd on the power bleeder, and any DOT fluid.

I did my truck a couple years ago, It was a stone bitch to get the
drums off, they had rusted in place. Crowbar and BFH time. After
that, it was a standard brake job. They are built just like every
other drum brake. I turned the drums on my lathe, bought the shoes
from hyster, the cylinder rebuild kits from NAPA. Had to build a
custom thingy to adjust the brake shoes, there's no room for a
screwdriver.

Have fun.

Karl
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

is this it?

http://www.machinerytrader.com/listi...?OHID=6819249&
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-02, Karl Townsend wrote:
is this it?

http://www.machinerytrader.com/listi...?OHID=6819249&


No, it is not.

i
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Wed, 02 Nov 2011 05:57:23 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:

On 2011-11-02, Winston wrote:
Ignoramus18836 wrote:
I brought in an outdoor forklift on pneumatic tires. It is not the one
that I bought for $500, but another one.

This outdoor one, runs good, but has nonworking brakes. Quick
investigation shows that brake system is full of air, and that brake
fluid is leaking from the right brake drum (I can see it leaking).

This is a Cat V50B LPG powered forklift.

Am I correct in assuming that a repair is simple, though not
necessarily easy, and likely amounts to replacing or fixing the brake
cylinder os some such?


It should be fairly simple, frozen bolts and inaccessible bolts
notwithstanding. Winnie's right, avoid the dust. Wet down some
newspapers after placing them on the ground below the brake job,
remove the drum, and drop it flat on the paper to shake off dust. Use
a stiff brush (cut-down 2" nylon paint brush works well) to work more
off and then take the drum outside (downwind) and blow the remainder
off. Then have it turned and wash it down with brake kleen before
installation. I usually marked the customer's name and wheel position
on the car into the drum before sending them out, and marked the lug
and drum to put it on the same way if the wheels were spin balanced on
the vehicle. It reduced error.


Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around


OK.

The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


The person suggesting the 3/4" drive socket set was right. HF has some
cheap sets in both 3/4" and 1". http://goo.gl/vqIuG You might want
both regular and deep (impact!) sockets, a breaker bar (for places you
can't get your impact into), and a 3/4" impact gun. Maybe you can
find another cheap impact gun like the one you sold for a gazillion
percent profit that last time.


Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and clear or does it have a
green tinge?


Clean and clear.

The green is likely algae and needs to be flushed out.
I found algae in the clutch cylinder on my truck. I flushed the heck
out of the system then replaced both the master and clutch
cylinders. The parts were inexpensive. Now the master cylinder is
nice and clear. The clutch works much more linearly and easily.


Algae grows in water. Water is the bane to brake systems. Replacement
of the cylinders was the way to go.


Recommend purchase a power bleeder.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MVP-0108
It will save you a *lot* of time and aggravation.
I spent my life doing it the old way and the
power bleeder makes the job almost a pleasure.

--Winston


What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?

i


2nd on the power bleeder, and any DOT fluid.


Howard had the correct answer: Find out from CAT, then use the
suggested fluid. Power bleeders (pressure from the master or vacuum
from the wheel) are good. They allow you to do the job yourself,
without help.


I did my truck a couple years ago, It was a stone bitch to get the
drums off, they had rusted in place. Crowbar and BFH time. After
that, it was a standard brake job. They are built just like every
other drum brake. I turned the drums on my lathe, bought the shoes
from hyster, the cylinder rebuild kits from NAPA. Had to build a
custom thingy to adjust the brake shoes, there's no room for a
screwdriver.


Karl, they sell brake spoons, y'know. http://goo.gl/0Gb4l
Did yours look like that when you were done? g
I cut mine in half when I needed a shorter one for an import truck
with top adjuster once, and it turned out to be very handy for
everything at that length. I most often used the angled side rather
than the curved one.

--
Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens.
-- Jimi Hendrix


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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

Karl Townsend wrote:

(...)

2nd on the power bleeder, and any DOT fluid.

I did my truck a couple years ago, It was a stone bitch to get the
drums off, they had rusted in place. Crowbar and BFH time.



Which reminds me of something I wish I knew much earlier!

Drums can be a pain to remove even if you have sufficient
gap and they can be impossible to remove without the gap.

http://tinyurl.com/45xfrft
http://tinyurl.com/44w2ate

You will want to turn each adjuster so that you increase
the gap between the shoes and the inside of the drum
*before* you attempt to remove the drum.

You would poke your adjustment tool through the back of
the mounting plate and rotate the star wheel down a few times.

If your drum has threaded removal holes, you can
then put bolts in them to pull the drum off the axle.

--Winston --Parking brake OFF.
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....
Karl, they sell brake spoons, y'know. http://goo.gl/0Gb4l
Did yours look like that when you were done? g
I cut mine in half when I needed a shorter one for an import truck
with top adjuster once, and it turned out to be very handy for
everything at that length. I most often used the angled side rather
than the curved one.


Na, that wouldn't work. You got less than 1/2" from the little long
hole to the fork mast. I made a right angle brake spoon, I guess.
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

I took off the wheel and the drum. It looks like the brake shoe
cylinder is leaking. I hope that I can find a replacement.

i
On 2011-11-02, Winston wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:

(...)

2nd on the power bleeder, and any DOT fluid.

I did my truck a couple years ago, It was a stone bitch to get the
drums off, they had rusted in place. Crowbar and BFH time.



Which reminds me of something I wish I knew much earlier!

Drums can be a pain to remove even if you have sufficient
gap and they can be impossible to remove without the gap.

http://tinyurl.com/45xfrft
http://tinyurl.com/44w2ate

You will want to turn each adjuster so that you increase
the gap between the shoes and the inside of the drum
*before* you attempt to remove the drum.

You would poke your adjustment tool through the back of
the mounting plate and rotate the star wheel down a few times.

If your drum has threaded removal holes, you can
then put bolts in them to pull the drum off the axle.

--Winston --Parking brake OFF.

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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Nov 1, 9:03*pm, Ignoramus18836 ignoramus18...@NOSPAM.
18836.invalid wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


Iggy

A while back you had a video of a something like a 2" impact wrench.
That will snatch that nut right off.

CarlBoyd

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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 11/1/2011 8:42 PM, dpb wrote:
On 11/1/2011 8:03 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
...

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


OK on any I've seen.

....

W/ the caveat it's highly unlikely it will have a DOT 5 (silicone-based)
fluid but be sure to not mix the DOT 3,4, or 5.1 (glycol-based) with a
DOT 5 if it were to be (or vice versa).

Again, place to find out what was recommended/used before going ahead.
Actually, I'd presume there would be at least a reasonable chance
there's an indication on the master cylinder cover or a decal or
something that notes the DOT classification.

--


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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

dpb wrote:
On 11/1/2011 8:42 PM, dpb wrote:
On 11/1/2011 8:03 PM, Ignoramus18836 wrote:
...

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?


OK on any I've seen.

...

W/ the caveat it's highly unlikely it will have a DOT 5 (silicone-based)
fluid but be sure to not mix the DOT 3,4, or 5.1 (glycol-based) with a
DOT 5 if it were to be (or vice versa).

Again, place to find out what was recommended/used before going ahead.
Actually, I'd presume there would be at least a reasonable chance
there's an indication on the master cylinder cover or a decal or
something that notes the DOT classification.


Check my thinking here?

In a given vehicle calling for a lower-boiling-point
glycol fluid, one could safely and honorably
do the flush and fill with the higher boiling point
glycol fluid, yes? Say it calls for DOT 4 and I put
in DOT 5.1?

What would be the downside to flushing out DOT 3 or 4
and filling with DOT 5.0?

--Winston
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On 11/2/2011 3:03 PM, Winston wrote:
....

What would be the downside to flushing out DOT 3 or 4
and filling with DOT 5.0?

....

Ensuring a _complete_ removal of _all_ entrained water/fluid is all.
DOT 5, while it doesn't allow moisture to enter the system, it does not
disperse any that is already there, either.

So, if one can ensure a dry, uncontaminated system, sure.

--
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On 11/2/2011 3:03 PM, Winston wrote:
....

Check my thinking here?

In a given vehicle calling for a lower-boiling-point
glycol fluid, one could safely and honorably
do the flush and fill with the higher boiling point
glycol fluid, yes? Say it calls for DOT 4 and I put
in DOT 5.1?

....

Missed this earlier...that's ok, certainly. Probably unneeded and no
real benefit much like higher octane gas in engines that don't spec it
but likewise it doesn't do anything bad.

--
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

dpb wrote:
On 11/2/2011 3:03 PM, Winston wrote:
...

Check my thinking here?

In a given vehicle calling for a lower-boiling-point
glycol fluid, one could safely and honorably
do the flush and fill with the higher boiling point
glycol fluid, yes? Say it calls for DOT 4 and I put
in DOT 5.1?

...

Missed this earlier...that's ok, certainly. Probably unneeded and no
real benefit much like higher octane gas in engines that don't spec it
but likewise it doesn't do anything bad.

--


OK. Thanks!

--Winston
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:45:03 -0700 (PDT), Carl
wrote:

On Nov 1, 9:03*pm, Ignoramus18836 ignoramus18...@NOSPAM.
18836.invalid wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


Iggy

A while back you had a video of a something like a 2" impact wrench.
That will snatch that nut right off.


He sold it not long after he bought it. And it would have been a bit
of overkill for this, plus he would need enough air to get it moving.

For this, something in the 3/4" to 1" impact would be plenty.

The fun part is picking it up to work on it - you need a special
low-profile high-load floor jack to pick it up, so start looking.

Sometimes there's a place for a 'stubby' bottle jack or a "Toe Jack"
they use to get charter bus Tag Axles off the ground - but be careful,
if you drop that fork truck on your toe...

You are also supposed to have special low-boy jackstands for fork
trucks, but that's easily substituted with good cribbing lumber and a
chunk of 1/2" steel plate on top to spread the load steel to steel.

One Good Thing: This one looks like it has enough ground clearance to
go outside and deal with a little snow without getting instantly
stucked. Once it has working brakes, that is...

-- Bruce --


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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-03, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:45:03 -0700 (PDT), Carl
wrote:

On Nov 1, 9:03?pm, Ignoramus18836 ignoramus18...@NOSPAM.
18836.invalid wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


Iggy

A while back you had a video of a something like a 2" impact wrench.
That will snatch that nut right off.


He sold it not long after he bought it. And it would have been a bit
of overkill for this, plus he would need enough air to get it moving.


I took the nuts off, using an electric 3/4" impact wrench.

For this, something in the 3/4" to 1" impact would be plenty.

The fun part is picking it up to work on it - you need a special
low-profile high-load floor jack to pick it up, so start looking.


Not at all.


Sometimes there's a place for a 'stubby' bottle jack or a "Toe Jack"
they use to get charter bus Tag Axles off the ground - but be careful,
if you drop that fork truck on your toe...

You are also supposed to have special low-boy jackstands for fork
trucks, but that's easily substituted with good cribbing lumber and a
chunk of 1/2" steel plate on top to spread the load steel to steel.


I lifted the forklift using a Simplex jack, and it is now resting on
4x4s.

One Good Thing: This one looks like it has enough ground clearance to
go outside and deal with a little snow without getting instantly
stucked. Once it has working brakes, that is...


Yes, it is attractive for a few purposes like that, indeed.

i
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 19:14:18 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:

I brought in an outdoor forklift on pneumatic tires. It is not the one
that I bought for $500, but another one.

This outdoor one, runs good, but has nonworking brakes. Quick
investigation shows that brake system is full of air, and that brake
fluid is leaking from the right brake drum (I can see it leaking).

This is a Cat V50B LPG powered forklift.

Am I correct in assuming that a repair is simple, though not
necessarily easy, and likely amounts to replacing or fixing the brake
cylinder os some such?

i


Yes.


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.

Im curious how you are going to do this.

There will be a test following the thread.


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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Posts: 10,399
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Thu, 03 Nov 2011 15:44:00 -0500, Ignoramus8802
wrote:

On 2011-11-03, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:45:03 -0700 (PDT), Carl
wrote:

On Nov 1, 9:03?pm, Ignoramus18836 ignoramus18...@NOSPAM.
18836.invalid wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


Iggy

A while back you had a video of a something like a 2" impact wrench.
That will snatch that nut right off.


He sold it not long after he bought it. And it would have been a bit
of overkill for this, plus he would need enough air to get it moving.


I took the nuts off, using an electric 3/4" impact wrench.

For this, something in the 3/4" to 1" impact would be plenty.

The fun part is picking it up to work on it - you need a special
low-profile high-load floor jack to pick it up, so start looking.


Not at all.


Sometimes there's a place for a 'stubby' bottle jack or a "Toe Jack"
they use to get charter bus Tag Axles off the ground - but be careful,
if you drop that fork truck on your toe...

You are also supposed to have special low-boy jackstands for fork
trucks, but that's easily substituted with good cribbing lumber and a
chunk of 1/2" steel plate on top to spread the load steel to steel.


I lifted the forklift using a Simplex jack, and it is now resting on
4x4s.


You couldnt lift the front wheels by using a 6x6 under the back of the
forks and then tilting the mast?



One Good Thing: This one looks like it has enough ground clearance to
go outside and deal with a little snow without getting instantly
stucked. Once it has working brakes, that is...


Yes, it is attractive for a few purposes like that, indeed.

i


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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Posts: 7
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.

Im curious how you are going to do this.

There will be a test following the thread.


Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.

I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.

I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.

i


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Posts: 7
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 03 Nov 2011 15:44:00 -0500, Ignoramus8802
wrote:

On 2011-11-03, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:45:03 -0700 (PDT), Carl
wrote:

On Nov 1, 9:03?pm, Ignoramus18836 ignoramus18...@NOSPAM.
18836.invalid wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


Iggy

A while back you had a video of a something like a 2" impact wrench.
That will snatch that nut right off.

He sold it not long after he bought it. And it would have been a bit
of overkill for this, plus he would need enough air to get it moving.


I took the nuts off, using an electric 3/4" impact wrench.

For this, something in the 3/4" to 1" impact would be plenty.

The fun part is picking it up to work on it - you need a special
low-profile high-load floor jack to pick it up, so start looking.


Not at all.


Sometimes there's a place for a 'stubby' bottle jack or a "Toe Jack"
they use to get charter bus Tag Axles off the ground - but be careful,
if you drop that fork truck on your toe...

You are also supposed to have special low-boy jackstands for fork
trucks, but that's easily substituted with good cribbing lumber and a
chunk of 1/2" steel plate on top to spread the load steel to steel.


I lifted the forklift using a Simplex jack, and it is now resting on
4x4s.


You couldnt lift the front wheels by using a 6x6 under the back of the
forks and then tilting the mast?


I wanted to do it the fight way, to have the forklift sitting up in th
air, without relying on any hydraulics.



One Good Thing: This one looks like it has enough ground clearance to
go outside and deal with a little snow without getting instantly
stucked. Once it has working brakes, that is...


Yes, it is attractive for a few purposes like that, indeed.

i


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Posts: 9,025
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:14:50 -0500, Ignoramus27678
wrote:

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.

Im curious how you are going to do this.

There will be a test following the thread.


Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.

I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.

I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.


Generally, when a dealer/mfgr wastes your time, it is for one of two
things. One is that they simply don't care a rat's ass whether or not
it is an inconvenience to you. Second is to figure out a way to make a
really hefty profit from you. A distant third is that the person you
talked with is extremely incompetent, though this possibility may crop
up during your stint with #1 or #2, too.

(Cynics Unite!)

--
The unexamined life is not worth living.
--Socrates
  #33   Report Post  
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Posts: 397
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:14:50 -0500, Ignoramus27678
wrote:

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.

Im curious how you are going to do this.

There will be a test following the thread.


Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.


Okay, Gunner, Test Grading time - Fail, or Partial Credit?

I vote for Partial Credit, because he WILL need that Simplex for
working on the rear tires and suspension - no mast on that end.

But if the truck runs, the 'tilt mast back, add cribbing under mast,
tilt mast forward, safety cribbing under chassis' is a lot easier.

(And for {$Deity}'s sake, don't anybody show Iggy that "Self Loading
Excavator into the back of a Dump Truck" footage for a few years. He
might get ideas he shouldn't have yet. That's an advanced level trick
for someone with a few hundred operating hours under their belt.
People like Adam Savage - and he freaked when he first tried it...)

I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.

I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.


Sometimes there's a valid reason for the 50 Questions - especially on
industrial gear where they've made the same item for 30 or 40 years
straight. They make production changes, so you need to know the
serial number and/or the manufacture date. And if you can get the
casting numbers off the bad parts, that helps too.

Some trucks use the same axle and backing plates for several different
weight ranges - there's one part for 13X2-1/2" brake shoes for the
single-wheel, and a different size wheel cylinder for the 13X5" shoes
on a Dually tired truck. And it's easy to swap the parts around in
the field, so they need to know what you've got.

-- Bruce --
  #34   Report Post  
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Posts: 7
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-05, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:14:50 -0500, Ignoramus27678
wrote:

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.

The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.

Im curious how you are going to do this.

There will be a test following the thread.


Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.


Okay, Gunner, Test Grading time - Fail, or Partial Credit?

I vote for Partial Credit, because he WILL need that Simplex for
working on the rear tires and suspension - no mast on that end.


I lost you here. I have this simplex jack on the shelf, why can't I
use it for the back?

But if the truck runs, the 'tilt mast back, add cribbing under mast,
tilt mast forward, safety cribbing under chassis' is a lot easier.

(And for {$Deity}'s sake, don't anybody show Iggy that "Self Loading
Excavator into the back of a Dump Truck" footage for a few years. He
might get ideas he shouldn't have yet. That's an advanced level trick
for someone with a few hundred operating hours under their belt.
People like Adam Savage - and he freaked when he first tried it...)


I am too much of a chicken to attempt that.

I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.

I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.


Sometimes there's a valid reason for the 50 Questions - especially on
industrial gear where they've made the same item for 30 or 40 years
straight. They make production changes, so you need to know the
serial number and/or the manufacture date. And if you can get the
casting numbers off the bad parts, that helps too.

Some trucks use the same axle and backing plates for several different
weight ranges - there's one part for 13X2-1/2" brake shoes for the
single-wheel, and a different size wheel cylinder for the 13X5" shoes
on a Dually tired truck. And it's easy to swap the parts around in
the field, so they need to know what you've got.


There was a part number on the bendix cylinder. I think that I found
some parts that interchange.

i
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Posts: 3,380
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Nov 5, 8:14*am, Ignoramus27678 ignoramus27...@NOSPAM.
27678.invalid wrote:
On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.


Im curious how *you are going to do this.


There will be a test following the thread.


Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.

I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.

I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.

i


Those dealers want to do the service...very high profit
margin...rather than to sell you a part...low profit margin.

TMT


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Posts: 10,399
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:14:50 -0500, Ignoramus27678
wrote:

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.

Im curious how you are going to do this.

There will be a test following the thread.


Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.


Good job!

I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.

I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.

i


Forklift dealers tend to have a service staff..and as such..they would
prefer not to sell you parts. Shrug..fact of life

So online may be quicker unless you find a dealer who likes end users
for something other than a money source to be mowed with regularity.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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Posts: 10,399
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 10:04:03 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:14:50 -0500, Ignoramus27678
wrote:

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 20:03:32 -0500, Ignoramus18836
wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.

The next problem is getting each tire up off the floor so you CAn pull
the wheel.

Im curious how you are going to do this.

There will be a test following the thread.


Lifting the forklift was the easiest part of the job so far. I used a
Simplex 10 ton mechanical jack. Right now the front of the forklift
sits on 4x4s.


Okay, Gunner, Test Grading time - Fail, or Partial Credit?


Full Credit for his solution.

I vote for Partial Credit, because he WILL need that Simplex for
working on the rear tires and suspension - no mast on that end.


Who changes rear tires? VBG


But if the truck runs, the 'tilt mast back, add cribbing under mast,
tilt mast forward, safety cribbing under chassis' is a lot easier.

(And for {$Deity}'s sake, don't anybody show Iggy that "Self Loading
Excavator into the back of a Dump Truck" footage for a few years. He
might get ideas he shouldn't have yet. That's an advanced level trick
for someone with a few hundred operating hours under their belt.
People like Adam Savage - and he freaked when he first tried it...)

I also took the wheel off with a 3/4" electric impact wrench.

I bought a Timken bearing for the wheel, however, not the brake
cylinder yet. Forklift dealers seem to be intent on wasting a lot of
my time. I should have bought one online.


Sometimes there's a valid reason for the 50 Questions - especially on
industrial gear where they've made the same item for 30 or 40 years
straight. They make production changes, so you need to know the
serial number and/or the manufacture date. And if you can get the
casting numbers off the bad parts, that helps too.

Some trucks use the same axle and backing plates for several different
weight ranges - there's one part for 13X2-1/2" brake shoes for the
single-wheel, and a different size wheel cylinder for the 13X5" shoes
on a Dually tired truck. And it's easy to swap the parts around in
the field, so they need to know what you've got.

-- Bruce --


Listen to Bruce..he is a fart smella...err..smart fella!!


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On Sat, 05 Nov 2011 08:15:41 -0500, Ignoramus27678
wrote:

On 2011-11-05, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 03 Nov 2011 15:44:00 -0500, Ignoramus8802
wrote:

On 2011-11-03, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:45:03 -0700 (PDT), Carl
wrote:

On Nov 1, 9:03?pm, Ignoramus18836 ignoramus18...@NOSPAM.
18836.invalid wrote:


The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.


Iggy

A while back you had a video of a something like a 2" impact wrench.
That will snatch that nut right off.

He sold it not long after he bought it. And it would have been a bit
of overkill for this, plus he would need enough air to get it moving.

I took the nuts off, using an electric 3/4" impact wrench.

For this, something in the 3/4" to 1" impact would be plenty.

The fun part is picking it up to work on it - you need a special
low-profile high-load floor jack to pick it up, so start looking.

Not at all.


Sometimes there's a place for a 'stubby' bottle jack or a "Toe Jack"
they use to get charter bus Tag Axles off the ground - but be careful,
if you drop that fork truck on your toe...

You are also supposed to have special low-boy jackstands for fork
trucks, but that's easily substituted with good cribbing lumber and a
chunk of 1/2" steel plate on top to spread the load steel to steel.

I lifted the forklift using a Simplex jack, and it is now resting on
4x4s.


You couldnt lift the front wheels by using a 6x6 under the back of the
forks and then tilting the mast?


I wanted to do it the fight way, to have the forklift sitting up in th
air, without relying on any hydraulics.


Thats what the other 6x6s are for..once you get it up.

Takes about 1 minute to get the front end up and start stuffing wood
under it. While drinking a cup of coffee.

And you got it in one...the "fight way"

VBG






One Good Thing: This one looks like it has enough ground clearance to
go outside and deal with a little snow without getting instantly
stucked. Once it has working brakes, that is...

Yes, it is attractive for a few purposes like that, indeed.

i


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch
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dpb dpb is offline
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Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 11/5/2011 1:07 PM, Ignoramus27678 wrote:
....

There was a part number on the bendix cylinder. I think that I found
some parts that interchange.


Be _very_ careful there about what you substitute...more often (or at
least as often) than not those will be OEM-specific stuff not sold other
than thru the OEM supply chain. The disadvantage of Green and/or Yellow
or other NamedPaintSchemes, but there's the fact they are what they are
and parts are available for 20-, 30=, maybe even 50 years (and the gear
is still functional after that long).

--
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Posts: 7
Default Forklift leaking brake fluid from right brake drum

On 2011-11-05, dpb wrote:
On 11/5/2011 1:07 PM, Ignoramus27678 wrote:
...

There was a part number on the bendix cylinder. I think that I found
some parts that interchange.


Be _very_ careful there about what you substitute...more often (or at
least as often) than not those will be OEM-specific stuff not sold other
than thru the OEM supply chain. The disadvantage of Green and/or Yellow
or other NamedPaintSchemes, but there's the fact they are what they are
and parts are available for 20-, 30=, maybe even 50 years (and the gear
is still functional after that long).

--


I do not understand what you are saying, sorry.

i
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