As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

In the first shot (ceiling light) I would have put the cable at the very
top of the joist rather than roughly half way up. It would have looked
much better. And I would have used twice as many clips, and I would have
spaced them evenly. I would have had a shorter pendant cable to minimise
the chance of the lamp getting knocked. But a four or five foot
fluorescent fixed to the bottom of the joist would have been far better
anyway.

Bill

Bill Wright wrote
John Rumm wrote

As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an article
with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

In the first shot (ceiling light) I would have put the cable at the very
top of the joist rather than roughly half way up. It would have looked
much better. And I would have used twice as many clips, and I would have
spaced them evenly. I would have had a shorter pendant cable to minimise
the chance of the lamp getting knocked. But a four or five foot
fluorescent fixed to the bottom of the joist would have been far better
anyway.

Yeah, agree with you on all those points except that I'd use small plastic
trucking in the corner between the joist and the ceiling instead of exposed
wire.

Maybe even use the channel intended for LED strip lighting instead of
trunking
with the wire inside that or U channel aluminium in the corner over the
wire.

On 24/11/16 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?

Is there any recommendation for labelling unused switches?

In our last place there was a switch above the sink (! Before regs?) in
a utility room behind the garage. It was connected up, but the wiring
disappeared behind the sink unit and I never found out what it went to.
It was one of those irritations every time I saw it - what did it
supply? The guy we bought the house from had a lot of "just in case"
cabling and boxes all over the place, ready for whatever connection
might be needed. I think we used only two of half a dozen or so in the
14 years we were there.

It's just that there is an unconnected third switch in the multiple, and
someone who moves into the property later may wonder if something is
faulty if nothing comes on when the switch is operated. Maybe a double
switch would have been sufficient; a triple wouldn't exactly break the
bank if it was needed later, especially if the "spare" cabling wasn't
present anyway.

--

Jeff

John Rumm wrote:

I have needed to do a few installations recently

Just 'using up' that old drum of 3&E, heh?

On Thu, 24 Nov 2016 08:24:24 +0000, Jeff Layman wrote:

On 24/11/16 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?

Is there any recommendation for labelling unused switches?

In our last place there was a switch above the sink (! Before regs?) in
a utility room behind the garage. It was connected up, but the wiring
disappeared behind the sink unit and I never found out what it went to.
It was one of those irritations every time I saw it - what did it
supply? The guy we bought the house from had a lot of "just in case"
cabling and boxes all over the place, ready for whatever connection
might be needed. I think we used only two of half a dozen or so in the
14 years we were there.

It's just that there is an unconnected third switch in the multiple, and
someone who moves into the property later may wonder if something is
faulty if nothing comes on when the switch is operated. Maybe a double
switch would have been sufficient; a triple wouldn't exactly break the
bank if it was needed later, especially if the "spare" cabling wasn't
present anyway.

I would be wicked and label the third switch:

THIS SWITCH MUST BE LEFT 'ON'
DO NOT TURN OFF



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £1 a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 08:57:44 UTC, Bob Eager wrote:

It's just that there is an unconnected third switch in the multiple, and
someone who moves into the property later may wonder if something is
faulty if nothing comes on when the switch is operated. Maybe a double
switch would have been sufficient; a triple wouldn't exactly break the
bank if it was needed later, especially if the "spare" cabling wasn't
present anyway.

I would be wicked and label the third switch:

THIS SWITCH MUST BE LEFT 'ON'
DO NOT TURN OFF

But must be turned off for 5 minutes once a month. AND NO LONGER!


NT

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 02:53:02 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

"In this example a surface box was used to make the transition from the flat T&E cable (switched by a remote stat, in turn fed from a fused connection unit)) to the high temperature butyl rubber flex that feeds the heater."

I would have used a flex outlet plate with a cord grip.

I may be able to put some minitrunking and skirting trunking photos up later.

Owain

On 24/11/2016 04:05, Bill Wright wrote:
On 24/11/2016 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

In the first shot (ceiling light) I would have put the cable at the very
top of the joist rather than roughly half way up. It would have looked
much better. And I would have used twice as many clips, and I would have
spaced them evenly. I would have had a shorter pendant cable to minimise
the chance of the lamp getting knocked. But a four or five foot
fluorescent fixed to the bottom of the joist would have been far better
anyway.

Did you miss the bit about it being a summer house (and hence not my
domain!) ;-)

(I did suggest a strip light (mostly in jest) the response was not
favourable it has to be said!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 08:24, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 24/11/16 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?

Is there any recommendation for labelling unused switches?

I don't recall seeing one anywhere formal - but its obviously worth
doing in some cases.

In our last place there was a switch above the sink (! Before regs?) in
a utility room behind the garage. It was connected up, but the wiring
disappeared behind the sink unit and I never found out what it went to.
It was one of those irritations every time I saw it - what did it
supply? The guy we bought the house from had a lot of "just in case"
cabling and boxes all over the place, ready for whatever connection
might be needed. I think we used only two of half a dozen or so in the
14 years we were there.

It's just that there is an unconnected third switch in the multiple, and
someone who moves into the property later may wonder if something is
faulty if nothing comes on when the switch is operated. Maybe a double
switch would have been sufficient; a triple wouldn't exactly break the
bank if it was needed later, especially if the "spare" cabling wasn't
present anyway.

I expect that spare will get used once the building is furnished and a
pattern of use has been established - then we will know what extra
lighting is needed (likely to be a LED tape or two at the edges I would
guess). If it turns out there is no further requirement, then I will
split the lighting sockets to have a switch each.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 08:57, Bob Eager wrote:
On Thu, 24 Nov 2016 08:24:24 +0000, Jeff Layman wrote:

On 24/11/16 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?

Is there any recommendation for labelling unused switches?

In our last place there was a switch above the sink (! Before regs?) in
a utility room behind the garage. It was connected up, but the wiring
disappeared behind the sink unit and I never found out what it went to.
It was one of those irritations every time I saw it - what did it
supply? The guy we bought the house from had a lot of "just in case"
cabling and boxes all over the place, ready for whatever connection
might be needed. I think we used only two of half a dozen or so in the
14 years we were there.

It's just that there is an unconnected third switch in the multiple, and
someone who moves into the property later may wonder if something is
faulty if nothing comes on when the switch is operated. Maybe a double
switch would have been sufficient; a triple wouldn't exactly break the
bank if it was needed later, especially if the "spare" cabling wasn't
present anyway.

I would be wicked and label the third switch:

THIS SWITCH MUST BE LEFT 'ON'
DO NOT TURN OFF

I would have thought "Warning, don't turn on" would drive some people
crazy ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 08:46, Andy Burns wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

I have needed to do a few installations recently

Just 'using up' that old drum of 3&E, heh?

Given the whole place is mixed colours anyway, I have no qualms using
old colours. But yup, I needed all of 2m for that project, so grabbed
the small coil on the rack rather than the big reel, and that turned out
to be RYB.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 09:11, wrote:
On Thursday, 24 November 2016 02:53:02 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

"In this example a surface box was used to make the transition from the flat T&E cable (switched by a remote stat, in turn fed from a fused connection unit)) to the high temperature butyl rubber flex that feeds the heater."

I would have used a flex outlet plate with a cord grip.

I considered it - but all I had handy was a fused flex outlet, and since
I did not need the fusing there I decided to save it for a job where I
needed it. Cable restraint seems a bit of a moot point in the
circumstances since that flex is never going to move.

I may be able to put some minitrunking and skirting trunking photos up later.

Ah yes, I was forgetting skirting and dado trunking... I probably have
some photos of installs with that...



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 09:11, wrote:
On Thursday, 24 November 2016 02:53:02 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

"In this example a surface box was used to make the transition from the flat T&E cable (switched by a remote stat, in turn fed from a fused connection unit)) to the high temperature butyl rubber flex that feeds the heater."

I would have used a flex outlet plate with a cord grip.


With surface mounted cable needing a back box doesn't that result[1] in
the flex coming out above the surface and so presenting a loop which
could be snagged or requiring a very tight bend radius?

[1] even with a "side entry" outlet (which I always feel ought to be
called a "side exit" outlet)



--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On 24/11/2016 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?



My tip for choosing trunking, if a beginner (like me). Choose a size
that definitely looks big enough, then go up at least one size more. It
really beats buying the stuff twice.

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 12:16:38 UTC, GB wrote:
My tip for choosing trunking, if a beginner (like me). Choose a size
that definitely looks big enough, then go up at least one size more. It
really beats buying the stuff twice.

Especially at crossovers, where leapfrogging one trunking over another really looks like I didn't plan the job.

Owain

To [Why surface wire]
I've added:
[Or you may not want to pierce the Vapour Control Layer andor Insulation. ]

Is there a maximum distance between clips?

[g]


On Thursday, November 24, 2016 at 2:53:02 AM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 04:05, Bill Wright wrote:

In the first shot (ceiling light) I would have put the cable at the very
top of the joist rather than roughly half way up. It would have looked
much better. And I would have used twice as many clips, and I would have
spaced them evenly. I would have had a shorter pendant cable to minimise
the chance of the lamp getting knocked. But a four or five foot
fluorescent fixed to the bottom of the joist would have been far better
anyway.

If 'twere my shed I'd have screwed the ceiling rose thing onto the side
of the joist and modified it with a pair of side cutters or hack-saw to
allow cable entry from side/top rather than the strange over-sized bit
of wood "bodge" but yes, twice as many clips as a back-up to not having
a roll of mini trunking in the van.

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 02:53:02 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?

I hesitate to say "good" either of the handiwork or the photography, but I have put some stuff up.

I'm afraid I don't know how to get smaller photos on the pages though.

Owain

On Thursday, 24 November 2016 02:53:02 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In days of yore 90% of wiring was surface.
There were many strange systems no longer seen.
Eg
Capping and clips.
Capping and casing.
Cleated.

On 24/11/2016 15:03, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

If 'twere my shed I'd have screwed the ceiling rose thing onto the side
of the joist and modified it with a pair of side cutters or hack-saw to
allow cable entry from side/top rather than the strange over-sized bit
of wood "bodge" but yes, twice as many clips as a back-up to not having
a roll of mini trunking in the van.

Or.... just drilled through the joist/rafter thing and run the cables
along the back-side.

On 24/11/2016 10:34, Robin wrote:
On 24/11/2016 09:11, wrote:
On Thursday, 24 November 2016 02:53:02 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

"In this example a surface box was used to make the transition from
the flat T&E cable (switched by a remote stat, in turn fed from a
fused connection unit)) to the high temperature butyl rubber flex that
feeds the heater."

I would have used a flex outlet plate with a cord grip.


With surface mounted cable needing a back box doesn't that result[1] in
the flex coming out above the surface and so presenting a loop which
could be snagged or requiring a very tight bend radius?

[1] even with a "side entry" outlet (which I always feel ought to be
called a "side exit" outlet)

Yup, that is a good point... The ones I had were side outlet. (in fact
even the blanking plate has a central knockout for front centre exit if
you wanted, but out the back against the wall seemed preferable.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 12:16, GB wrote:
On 24/11/2016 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?



My tip for choosing trunking, if a beginner (like me). Choose a size
that definitely looks big enough, then go up at least one size more. It
really beats buying the stuff twice.

Yup, first time I ordered 16mm D line, I thought nope that is no good
for man nor beast[1] and asked them to go fine me something large enough
to use.

[1] 2 x cat5 would be a push for that, whereas you can get 4 x cat5 in
the normal 16 square trunking.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 14:52, DICEGEORGE wrote:
To [Why surface wire]
I've added:
[Or you may not want to pierce the Vapour Control Layer andor Insulation. ]

Is there a maximum distance between clips?

There are recommendations ISTR...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...allation#Clips

(I may stick some more in the joist when I have something in there to
stand on other than tip toes!)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/2016 16:15, wrote:
On Thursday, 24 November 2016 02:53:02 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?

I hesitate to say "good" either of the handiwork or the photography, but I have put some stuff up.

I'm afraid I don't know how to get smaller photos on the pages though.

stick the pixel width in the image link, so:

[[image:myimagefile.jpg]]

becomes:

[[image:myimagefile.jpg|512px]]

Specifies 512 pixels in the x direction...

Of if you do:

[[image:myimagefile.jpg|thumb|You can also stick a free form caption here]]




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 24/11/16 02:53, John Rumm wrote:
As I have needed to do a few installations recently which were all
surfaced wired, I though I would lob the few photos I had into an
article with some tips on wiring surface stuff.

What I got so far was:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Surface_wiring_tips

However it could do with photos of other types of install - say conduit
metal and plastic), micc, square trunked etc. Anyone got any good shots
I can use handy?



This is 16mm wide trunking encased in a 33mm x 16mm strip of softwood,
that inside I've routed out a slot.

https://app.box.com/s/04p1pmd9a9vcgh329xx1a8l1xqe4ggux

(given up on photobucket)

Primarily it's done here for mechanical protection as next to it is
stored our Henry vacuum cleaner, and as vacuum cleaners go he is a bit
boisterous when being returned to his staircase cupboard home.

However, if I were running cables across or down a wall, I think it
looks a lot nicer than just the naked trucking, and the wood can be
painted or stained as a feature. In fact a line of them centrally below
a wall mounted TV wouldn't look too bad either, with the advantage that
cables can easily be removed and replaced when needed.

Then again YMMV.

--
Adrian C

On 24/11/2016 17:16, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 24/11/2016 15:03, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

If 'twere my shed I'd have screwed the ceiling rose thing onto the side
of the joist and modified it with a pair of side cutters or hack-saw to
allow cable entry from side/top rather than the strange over-sized bit
of wood "bodge" but yes, twice as many clips as a back-up to not having
a roll of mini trunking in the van.

Or.... just drilled through the joist/rafter thing and run the cables
along the back-side.



There are proper plastic patresses for the job.

--
Adam

On 24/11/2016 15:03, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 24/11/2016 04:05, Bill Wright wrote:

In the first shot (ceiling light) I would have put the cable at the very
top of the joist rather than roughly half way up. It would have looked
much better. And I would have used twice as many clips, and I would have
spaced them evenly. I would have had a shorter pendant cable to minimise
the chance of the lamp getting knocked. But a four or five foot
fluorescent fixed to the bottom of the joist would have been far better
anyway.

If 'twere my shed I'd have screwed the ceiling rose thing onto the side
of the joist and modified it with a pair of side cutters or hack-saw to
allow cable entry from side/top rather than the strange over-sized bit
of wood "bodge" but yes, twice as many clips as a back-up to not having
a roll of mini trunking in the van.

Not sure ceiling rose on the side of a joist would look much cop by the
time there is a shade hanging from the pendant! (and trunking up there
looked fugly, so I left that bit without)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/