I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Anyone able to suggest something suitable?

And a thermostat to work with it? The current immersion heater doesn't
have one.

--
F

On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Owain

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

--
F

On 08/06/2016 21:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:21:16 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

The immersion heater in my late mother's hot water tank has a
thermostat, and it dates from 1960. It may just be that your
thermostat was never set properly, or the setting has drifted over the
years.

I'll investigate once I've plucked up enough courage to disturb the huge
amount of 'stuff' in the cupboard!

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I use
a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the timer.
Any problems there?

--
F

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
...


And a thermostat to work with it?


The current immersion heater doesn't have one.


Are you sure about that?

Power off and lift the metal cap covering the immersion connections to the
tank.

Have a look and I am sure you will find a non working stat dial under the
cover.

--
Adam

On 08/06/2016 22:28, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:45:14 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 21:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:21:16 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

The immersion heater in my late mother's hot water tank has a
thermostat, and it dates from 1960. It may just be that your
thermostat was never set properly, or the setting has drifted over the
years.

I'll investigate once I've plucked up enough courage to disturb the huge
amount of 'stuff' in the cupboard!

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I use
a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the timer.
Any problems there?

I went down the same road as you're going down, some years ago. My
existing timer was just a plug-in jobbie that plugged into a socket in
the airing cupboard, and the immersion heater plug plugged into that.
But I was worried about the current capacity of the timer, and when it
eventually packed up, I installed one of these
http://tinyurl.com/hawlk2t mounted in one of these
http://tinyurl.com/jpwz7eg . It also needs an isolating switch, a
pattress and a junction box. The Sangamo is an electronic controller,
wired in, so no plug and socket arrangement, and has 16A capacity
which, like you, I felt was important at the time. It's probably more
sophisticated than I need, as it's used just as an on/off timer at the
same fixed times overnight to take advantage of E7 electricity, but it
works OK and does the job. My only reservation is that the display is
microscopic and difficult to read unless you get close and have it
well lit, e.g. with a torch.

As an alternative to mine, you could try these purpose-designed
immersion timers, also by Sangamo http://tinyurl.com/jydsg3j Might be
simpler to install, easier to read, and has its own case. If I'd been
aware of them, I'd have gone for the PSD version, in the middle.

Thanks, the PSD would do the job for me but it's quite expensive
compared with the plug-in type! But, of course, you get what you pay for...

--
F

On 6/8/2016 9:45 PM, F wrote:
On 08/06/2016 21:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:21:16 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected
by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp
timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should
have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat
will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a
pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

The immersion heater in my late mother's hot water tank has a
thermostat, and it dates from 1960. It may just be that your
thermostat was never set properly, or the setting has drifted over the
years.

I'll investigate once I've plucked up enough courage to disturb the huge
amount of 'stuff' in the cupboard!

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I use
a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the timer.
Any problems there?

If you do go down the 13A plug and socket route (and I wouldn't
recommend it) make sure you use a good quality one.

I tried doing this for a friend (long story) but had failures on plugs
and sockets and ended up putting in these

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...40v/index.html

These were on a 20A radial circuit, not a ring main.

I think you should use a "wired in" timer. No doubt Adam or someone else
who knows the regs will comment shortly.

Also make sure you use suitable heat resistant flex to the heater.

On 08/06/2016 22:33, ARW wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
...


And a thermostat to work with it?


The current immersion heater doesn't have one.


Are you sure about that?

Power off and lift the metal cap covering the immersion connections to
the tank.

Have a look and I am sure you will find a non working stat dial under
the cover.

A job for tomorrow!

--
F

F wrote:
On 08/06/2016 21:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:21:16 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected
by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some
claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13
amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should
have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat
will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a
pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

The immersion heater in my late mother's hot water tank has a
thermostat, and it dates from 1960. It may just be that your
thermostat was never set properly, or the setting has drifted over the
years.

I'll investigate once I've plucked up enough courage to disturb the
huge amount of 'stuff' in the cupboard!

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I
use a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the
timer. Any problems there?

Use a mechanical timer. IME digital timers are a pain.

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
On 08/06/2016 22:33, ARW wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
...


And a thermostat to work with it?


The current immersion heater doesn't have one.


Are you sure about that?

Power off and lift the metal cap covering the immersion connections to
the tank.

Have a look and I am sure you will find a non working stat dial under
the cover.

A job for tomorrow!


There is probably nothing more than a nut on a threaded bar holding down the
metal cover.

When you open it you will see (if it is that old) why I said power down
before removing the cover.

All the best.

--
Adam

On 08/06/2016 20:14, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Anyone able to suggest something suitable?

And a thermostat to work with it? The current immersion heater doesn't
have one.


Google for 'immersion heat timer' there are lots of products these days.
I had to replace my Smiths timer with a similar (identical) product from
another supplier.

I would make sure you don't already have a thermostat. There are many
products for central heating systems, but they would not be able to
handle the current without using a relay.


--
Michael Chare

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

That is true of ours. Of course one issue after a few years was that the
internal battery which was soldered in, eventually dies and the next power
cut mangles the settings. Hopefully this issue has now been fixed. I have
economy 7 so I have it on during the cheap hours as well, and have an over
ride switch for emergencies.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp timer
will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should have a
secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat will be inside
the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a pocket so it can be
replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Owain

On 08/06/2016 21:45, F wrote:

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I use
a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the timer.
Any problems there?

It's what I've had for the last couple of years, and works ok so far.
With a load of something like 12 or 13 amps it may be better to use one
of the older style time-switches with a synchronous motor and a
mechanical switch, rather than the new-fangled things full of
electronics - I've have several of these fail on much smaller loads and
would be doubtful of using them for an immersion heater.


--
Clive Page

On 08/06/2016 23:06, Capitol wrote:

Use a mechanical timer. IME digital timers are a pain.

I chose digital for the battery backup.

--
F

On 08/06/2016 23:21, ARW wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
On 08/06/2016 22:33, ARW wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
...


And a thermostat to work with it?


The current immersion heater doesn't have one.


Are you sure about that?

Power off and lift the metal cap covering the immersion connections to
the tank.

Have a look and I am sure you will find a non working stat dial under
the cover.

A job for tomorrow!


There is probably nothing more than a nut on a threaded bar holding down
the metal cover.

But before I get to that there's a mountain of 'stuff' to remove. Enough
spare laundry for a medium sized hotel. OK, a small hotel!

When you open it you will see (if it is that old) why I said power down
before removing the cover.

I seem to remember the presence of a bunch of unprotected terminals from
the last time I looked many moons ago.

--
F

On 08/06/2016 23:24, Michael Chare wrote:
On 08/06/2016 20:14, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Anyone able to suggest something suitable?

And a thermostat to work with it? The current immersion heater doesn't
have one.


Google for 'immersion heat timer' there are lots of products these days.

I have, and there's a lot of junk out there, hence my request for
suggestions.

--
F

En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the timer.
Any problems there?

I wouldn't recommend it. It's OK for other 3kW devices like kettles
which are used intermittently, but not really a good idea for immersions
IMO.

I did wire up the immersion in a previous house with a plug and socket -
good quality (MK) ones - but the plug got too warm for my taste and more
so when the door to the cupboard was closed. I replaced it with a FSU
in the end. That was for a pretty old immersion like yours which does
probably pull the full 3kW. A modern one might be "eco" and draw less
current.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

I seem to remember the presence of a bunch of unprotected terminals from
the last time I looked many moons ago.

They are unnerving. On mine, the element and cylinder were old and the
chances of getting it out without damage were low. All that was wrong
was the cable had embrittled and the outer insulation begun to crack, so
as a belt and braces measure I replaced the cable with heat resistant
type, put some heat shrink sleeving over the connections under the cap
and let the heat from the element do the job of shrinking it.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

On 08/06/2016 21:21, F wrote:
On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp
timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should
have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat
will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a
pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

Suggest that if the immersion header is in a usable state (i.e. wired
in, ready for someone to plug in/switch on), then a working thermostat
is probably of greater priority than a timer. Shouldn't have to rely on
users knowing the specifics of a system (don't heat the water for more
than X minutes) to make it fail-safe. Timers can fail, settings can get
changed etc and could end up with a dangerous situation, which reminds
me of this:

http://www.getsurrey.co.uk/news/surr...oured-11250864

We had something similar happen, although less dramatic and in an spare
bedroom (steaming water coming down the light fitting and onto a bed
whilst we were out) shortly after we moved into a property and had
turned on the immersion heater and forgotten about it. The thermostat
was either faulty or non-existent. We removed the wiring to the
immersion heater until we replaced the cylinder some years later and put
in a new immersion heater.

D

On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 23:06:36 +0100, Capitol wrote:

F wrote:
On 08/06/2016 21:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:21:16 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected
by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some
claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13
amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should
have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat
will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a
pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

The immersion heater in my late mother's hot water tank has a
thermostat, and it dates from 1960. It may just be that your
thermostat was never set properly, or the setting has drifted over the
years.

I'll investigate once I've plucked up enough courage to disturb the
huge amount of 'stuff' in the cupboard!

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I
use a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the
timer. Any problems there?

Use a mechanical timer. IME digital timers are a pain.

I disagree completely. Mechanical timers make a noise and don't keep accurate time. Digital timers are silent and are as accurate as a digital watch. I can see no reason you'd have anything against a digital timer.

--
The only intuitive user interface is the nipple.

On Thu, 09 Jun 2016 10:44:25 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the timer.

On Thu, 09 Jun 2016 12:50:30 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Thu, 09 Jun 2016 12:27:55 +0100, "James Wilkinson"
wrote:

On Thu, 09 Jun 2016 10:44:25 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the timer.
Any problems there?

I wouldn't recommend it. It's OK for other 3kW devices like kettles
which are used intermittently, but not really a good idea for immersions
IMO.

I did wire up the immersion in a previous house with a plug and socket -
good quality (MK) ones - but the plug got too warm for my taste and more
so when the door to the cupboard was closed. I replaced it with a FSU
in the end. That was for a pretty old immersion like yours which does
probably pull the full 3kW. A modern one might be "eco" and draw less
current.

How is less than 3kW eco? It just takes longer to heat the tank.

And wastes a bit more heat in the process, so actually uses more
energy than a rapid heat-up. But that's Euro-logic for you! Goes with
the proposed ban on high-power kettles, toasters, you-name-it.
http://tinyurl.com/mbr644x (I gather the kettles thing is on hold ATM,
for fear of giving more fuel to the Brexit campaign, but no doubt if
Brexit fails, it'll be back on the agenda toot-sweet, as they don't
say in France).

The only way a low powered kettle would save electricity is making us so ****ing impatient we don't bother with hot drinks any more.

Anyway, why are we saving electricity? Electricity is a renewable resource, it can be created from anything.

And the amounts used for vacuum cleaners, kettles, etc are miniscule compared with heating.

--
FREE TIBET!!!! (with purchase of 1 mainland china)

En el artículo , Chris Hogg
escribió:

[you're replying to Peter Hucker, aka Mr Macaw's latest nymshift -
killfile update recommended]

I did put "eco" in quotes for a reason, but PHucker missed the subtlety
in his haste to score points, as usual.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

On 09/06/2016 09:56, F wrote:

I seem to remember the presence of a bunch of unprotected terminals from
the last time I looked many moons ago.

And I remembered correctly: scary!

There is a thermostat and it was wound all the way up to maximum at 180C!

It's now down at 60C.

Now I just need to find a timer at a reasonable price.

--
F

En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

There is a thermostat and it was wound all the way up to maximum at 180C!

Sure that's not Fahrenheit? 180F = ~82C

If your immersion was really able to reach 180C, boiling-over would be
the least of your problems

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

On Thu, 09 Jun 2016 13:11:14 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artículo , Chris Hogg
escribió:

[you're replying to Peter Hucker, aka Mr Macaw's latest nymshift -
killfile update recommended]

I did put "eco" in quotes for a reason, but PHucker missed the subtlety
in his haste to score points, as usual.

I missed nothing, and never suggested you agreed with the "eco". It is you that can't understand my posts.

--
War is god's way of teaching Americans geography -- Ambrose Bierce

On Thu, 09 Jun 2016 14:03:41 +0100, Chris Hogg wrote:

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 13:11:14 +0100, Mike Tomlinson
wrote:

En el artículo , Chris Hogg
escribió:

[you're replying to Peter Hucker, aka Mr Macaw's latest nymshift -
killfile update recommended]

I'm not particularly interested in the author of any post, or their
pseudonyms. I take what they say at face value, and either respond or
ignore, as the feeling takes me. FWIW, I tend not to read most of Mr
Macaw's posts, mainly because they're on subjects that don't interest
me.

Stop using common sense in this group, you're just confusing the dimwits..

--
A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.
Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?
A: Top-posting.
Q: What is the most annoying thing on newsgroups and in e-mail?

On 09/06/2016 14:22, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

There is a thermostat and it was wound all the way up to maximum at 180C!

Sure that's not Fahrenheit? 180F = ~82C

If your immersion was really able to reach 180C, boiling-over would be
the least of your problems

Doh! I'm so used to using C that I forgot to add the F!

As it happens, the thermostat may well be pretty much stuck 'on'. Set to
120F (I decided to reduce it a little bearing in mind the risk of pain
to the unwary) it is getting pretty hot. Winding the adjuster back and
forth a few times elicits clicks most, but not all, of the time.

The only positive outcome today has been the opportunity to use my Aldi
'headlamp' for the first time. Seriously useful.

--
F

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
...
On 09/06/2016 14:22, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

There is a thermostat and it was wound all the way up to maximum at
180C!

Sure that's not Fahrenheit? 180F = ~82C

If your immersion was really able to reach 180C, boiling-over would be
the least of your problems

Doh! I'm so used to using C that I forgot to add the F!

You forgot your own name?:-)


As it happens, the thermostat may well be pretty much stuck 'on'. Set to
120F (I decided to reduce it a little bearing in mind the risk of pain to
the unwary) it is getting pretty hot. Winding the adjuster back and forth
a few times elicits clicks most, but not all, of the time.

The only positive outcome today has been the opportunity to use my Aldi
'headlamp' for the first time. Seriously useful.

Your first job should be to swap the old stat for a dual safety stat that
uses these new fangled Cs. It's actually quite easy in most cases (apart
from when a plumber passes a pipe across the top of it etc).

Post a photo of what you have if you are not sure.

The 18" stats, the most common size, are £10.79 in SF.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dual-safet...ostat-18/89445

--
Adam

"James Wilkinson" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 23:06:36 +0100, Capitol wrote:

F wrote:
On 08/06/2016 21:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:21:16 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected
by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many
of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some
claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13
amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should
have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat
will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a
pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will
boil
the tank if it's left on!

The immersion heater in my late mother's hot water tank has a
thermostat, and it dates from 1960. It may just be that your
thermostat was never set properly, or the setting has drifted over the
years.

I'll investigate once I've plucked up enough courage to disturb the
huge amount of 'stuff' in the cupboard!

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I
use a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the
timer. Any problems there?

Use a mechanical timer. IME digital timers are a pain.

I disagree completely. Mechanical timers make a noise and don't keep
accurate time. Digital timers are silent and are as accurate as a digital
watch. I can see no reason you'd have anything against a digital timer.

The reason is because he is a luddite and objects to everything
that has been an improvement, everything from frost free fridges
and freezers to smartphones to satnavs to net connected appliances
to the EU. He's just another dinosaur.

On Thu, 09 Jun 2016 20:51:52 +0100, Rod Speed wrote:



"James Wilkinson" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 08 Jun 2016 23:06:36 +0100, Capitol wrote:

F wrote:
On 08/06/2016 21:36, Chris Hogg wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jun 2016 21:21:16 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected
by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many
of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some
claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13
amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should
have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat
will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a
pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will
boil
the tank if it's left on!

The immersion heater in my late mother's hot water tank has a
thermostat, and it dates from 1960. It may just be that your
thermostat was never set properly, or the setting has drifted over the
years.

I'll investigate once I've plucked up enough courage to disturb the
huge amount of 'stuff' in the cupboard!

Meanwhile, anyone got a recommendation for a digital timer? Or do I
use a spare I have that is rated 13 amps and which I use for switching
lighting when we're away?

I would need to replace the present immersion heater switch with a 13
amp socket and put a plug on the heater lead to plug it into the
timer. Any problems there?

Use a mechanical timer. IME digital timers are a pain.

I disagree completely. Mechanical timers make a noise and don't keep
accurate time. Digital timers are silent and are as accurate as a digital
watch. I can see no reason you'd have anything against a digital timer.

The reason is because he is a luddite and objects to everything
that has been an improvement, everything from frost free fridges
and freezers to smartphones to satnavs to net connected appliances
to the EU. He's just another dinosaur.

You made perfect sense until you said EU. Have you been at the grog or something?

--
"I'll have the rump steak, rare, please."
He said, "Aren't you worried about the mad cow?"
"Nah, she can order for herself."
And that's when the fight started....

On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 21:21:24 UTC+1, F wrote:
On 08/06/2016 20:51, wrote:
On Wednesday, 8 June 2016 20:14:48 UTC+1, F wrote:
I'm looking to put our immersion heater on a timer. It's protected by a
16 amp fuse so I assume the timer needs to be rated the same. Many of
the timers I've found so far seem to be 13 amp, even though some claim
16 amp in the headline description.

Domestic immersion heaters are 3 kW maximum so a good quality 13 amp timer will be adequate.

The immersion heater must have a thermostat and all new ones should have a secondary safety cutout with a manual reset. The thermostat will be inside the cover of the immersion and usually slides into a pocket so it can be replaced without draining down the cylinder.

Thanks.

The immersion heater in question is at least 38 years old and will boil
the tank if it's left on!

--
F

Even 38 year old immersion heaters had a thermostat.
Very likely yours is faulty & needs a new one.
Easy to obtain and fit. Remove cap on immersion heater & withdraw.
If it's very tight there may be a leak on the 'stat tube and corrosion.
In which case you will need a complete new immersion heater

The best save you can make is to up the insulation on your tank.
Also if you use lots of water, think economy seven.
But may not be worth it.

A timer is useful if you use hot water at regular times and have a bath as opposed to shower.

On 09/06/2016 18:29, ARW wrote:
"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
...
On 09/06/2016 14:22, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

There is a thermostat and it was wound all the way up to maximum at
180C!

Sure that's not Fahrenheit? 180F = ~82C

If your immersion was really able to reach 180C, boiling-over would be
the least of your problems

Doh! I'm so used to using C that I forgot to add the F!

You forgot your own name?:-)


As it happens, the thermostat may well be pretty much stuck 'on'. Set
to 120F (I decided to reduce it a little bearing in mind the risk of
pain to the unwary) it is getting pretty hot. Winding the adjuster
back and forth a few times elicits clicks most, but not all, of the time.

The only positive outcome today has been the opportunity to use my
Aldi 'headlamp' for the first time. Seriously useful.

Your first job should be to swap the old stat for a dual safety stat
that uses these new fangled Cs. It's actually quite easy in most cases
(apart from when a plumber passes a pipe across the top of it etc).

Post a photo of what you have if you are not sure.

The 18" stats, the most common size, are £10.79 in SF.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dual-safet...ostat-18/89445

Thanks. Image at
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/di...0heater%20stat

--
F

On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 13:28:44 +0100, F news@nowhere wrote:

On 09/06/2016 09:56, F wrote:

I seem to remember the presence of a bunch of unprotected terminals from
the last time I looked many moons ago.

And I remembered correctly: scary!

There is a thermostat and it was wound all the way up to maximum at 180C!

It's now down at 60C.

Now I just need to find a timer at a reasonable price.



As I was on Economy 7 I installed a timer some ~30yrs ago - it was/is
fully mechanical but a modern equivalent looks like:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMNTT01.html

I also had a switch between the timer and the tank so that I could
turn the immersion heater off without messing with the timer.

If you ever have to remove the thermostat don't waste your time with a
cheapo spanner. I struggled and started to buckle the top of the tank
and then bought a box spanner for a couple of quid more and it worked
immediately.


--
AnthonyL

On 10/06/2016 11:30, F wrote:
On 09/06/2016 18:29, ARW wrote:

Your first job should be to swap the old stat for a dual safety stat
that uses these new fangled Cs. It's actually quite easy in most cases
(apart from when a plumber passes a pipe across the top of it etc).

Post a photo of what you have if you are not sure.

The 18" stats, the most common size, are £10.79 in SF.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dual-safet...ostat-18/89445

Thanks. Image at
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/di...0heater%20stat

Just to bring things up-to-date, I discovered how easy it was to take
the thermostat out, found it was a seven inch version, picked one up
from Screwfix (thanks, Adam) and it's installed and working. So far!

Thanks, all, for the help. I'm now educated in immersion heater
thermostats and didn't end up, as I was expecting, having to buy and
install a complete new heater assembly, something I wasn't looking
forward to.

--
F

On 10/06/2016 15:27, F wrote:
On 10/06/2016 11:30, F wrote:
On 09/06/2016 18:29, ARW wrote:

Your first job should be to swap the old stat for a dual safety stat
that uses these new fangled Cs. It's actually quite easy in most cases
(apart from when a plumber passes a pipe across the top of it etc).

Post a photo of what you have if you are not sure.

The 18" stats, the most common size, are £10.79 in SF.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dual-safet...ostat-18/89445

Thanks. Image at
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/di...0heater%20stat


Just to bring things up-to-date, I discovered how easy it was to take
the thermostat out, found it was a seven inch version, picked one up
from Screwfix (thanks, Adam) and it's installed and working. So far!

Thanks, all, for the help. I'm now educated in immersion heater
thermostats and didn't end up, as I was expecting, having to buy and
install a complete new heater assembly, something I wasn't looking
forward to.

....and what a lot of people don't notice is that anticlockwise
adjustment INCREASES the temperature.

Peter

En el artículo , F
news@nowhere.? escribió:

Thanks. Image at
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/di...0heater%20stat

Noah called, he wants his stat back.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) systemd: the Linux version of Windows 10
(")_(")

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
news
On 10/06/2016 11:30, F wrote:

Thanks. Image at
http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/di...0heater%20stat

Just to bring things up-to-date, I discovered how easy it was to take the
thermostat out, found it was a seven inch version, picked one up from
Screwfix (thanks, Adam) and it's installed and working. So far!

Thanks, all, for the help. I'm now educated in immersion heater
thermostats and didn't end up, as I was expecting, having to buy and
install a complete new heater assembly, something I wasn't looking forward
to.

Told you it was easy.

The cable feeding the stat is most interesting. It looks like a 3 core flex
with a bare earth.


--
Adam

"F" news@nowhere wrote in message
o.uk...
On 08/06/2016 23:06, Capitol wrote:

Use a mechanical timer. IME digital timers are a pain.

I chose digital for the battery backup.

Is the timer because the tank was boiling when the immersion was left on or
for convenience to save you manually switching the HW on and off?

If you are still happy to use a switch and are just forgetting to turn it
off then you might be better using something like

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTGBT4.html



--
Adam

On 11/06/2016 09:57, ARW wrote:

Told you it was easy.

Never doubted you!

The cable feeding the stat is most interesting. It looks like a 3 core
flex with a bare earth.

2 core with a bare earth and seriously thick and heavy. Over-specced
might be an understatement!

--
F