"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door

Oh dear.

Oh cheap in your case.

On 24/03/2016 17:24, bm wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door

Oh dear.

Yep, nothing more to be said.
Cept maybe - **** off Wodney.



Here's the thing. Pro door hangers use a plane because often they don't
have the space to lay the door out on sawhorses or whatever and, because
they do sod all else all day, they're pretty good at it. For the rest of
us, and I include chippies who don't hang doors all day long, the circ
saw method is pretty foolproof

Stuart Noble wrote

Here's the thing. Pro door hangers use a plane because often they
don't have the space to lay the door out on sawhorses or whatever
and, because they do sod all else all day, they're pretty good at it.
For the rest of us, and I include chippies who don't hang doors all
day long, the circ saw method is pretty foolproof

Like hell it is. The problem with using a circular saw is that it is
MUCH harder for someone who has never done a door before
to work out how much to take off. MUCH safer to trim the door
gradually with a plane until it clears the new carpet or tiles.

On 24/03/2016 17:20, Rod Speed wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me,

No thanks.

it's quicker & more accurate.

But not as good for the OP who isnt likely to be able to work
out just how much should be removed. Much safer to do it
more gradually with an electric plane for someone like that.

Have you ever used a sawboard?

Something else you've never used, obviously.

There you go, face down in the mud, as always.
Even with the work horizontal and on a workbench, it's not easy to
make a perfect job with a power plane.

You don't need a perfect job with the bottom of a ****ing door, ****wit.

You do if you are charging a customer for it.

Indeed, a hand plane is easier to use for the unskilled.

Bull**** for someone who has never used one before.
Something as large as a door is going to be even more difficult.

Nope, just have the door on one of the long edges and the bottom
vertical. Do it half at a time and turn the door over so its on the other
long side when you have done half the bottom and do the other half.

Ha ha ha ha!

Why not just for once take the word of those who have actually done
the job?

Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often
than you ever have and done it fine with an electric plane and have
enough of a clue to be able to realise
that someone like the OP isnt going to be able to work out how much to
take off with a circular saw
and is much safer doing it a bit at a time until the
door works fine, with an electric planer.

But you haven't done the job as often as I have. You're suggesting take
a bit off, re hang door, take a bit off, re hang door, take a bit off,
re hang door. It would take all day.

Getting the right amount off is dead simple. Position door next to frame
resting on a couple of spacers (pencils work fine). Measure distance
between hinge rebate and hinge. Remove that amount from bottom. Perfect
job.



Doesn't matter how quick it is for him.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 16:35, Rod Speed wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Tim Watts wrote

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood
clamped to the door to use as a guide will do fine.

Not entirely true - an electric plane will
be fine - I've done it, on several doors.

Me too.

I suppose it depends on the door design,

Not much.

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Of course you are halfwit. They are called stiles.

And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either.

You don’t need a perfect edge with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

A sharp circular saw up against a bit of straight wood as a
guide will give a near perfect cut along and across the grain.

You don’t need a perfect cut with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Yes, a circular saw and a sawboard is certainly quicker when
you have those and are being paid to do that, but the plane
is a lot better when doing it for the first time because you
get to take a bit off at a time until the door work well and
there is no risk of taking off too much when its done in one
go. It isnt easy for someone like the OP who doesn’t even
know how to do it to work out how much to take off. With
a plane you can do it a bit at a time and stop when its enough.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to
come off the far edge, but to plane from both edges to the
middle, otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.




--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 18:18, Rod Speed wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote
Here's the thing. Pro door hangers use a plane because often they
don't have the space to lay the door out on sawhorses or whatever and,
because they do sod all else all day, they're pretty good at it. For
the rest of us, and I include chippies who don't hang doors all day
long, the circ saw method is pretty foolproof

Like hell it is. The problem with using a circular saw is that it is
MUCH harder for someone who has never done a door before to work out how
much to take off. MUCH safer to trim the door gradually with a plane
until it clears the new carpet or tiles.

Or do it properly and get it right first time.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 17:40, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things. Didn't
think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 17:12, Rod Speed wrote:


"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
On 24/03/2016 11:43, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 22:48:22 UTC, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane
would have,
but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley weak bathroom
door rather than solid wood.


The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing at
all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and
handsaw merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me,

No thanks.

it's quicker & more accurate.

But not as good for the OP who isnt likely to be able to work
out just how much should be removed. Much safer to do it
more gradually with an electric plane for someone like that.

Have you ever used a sawboard?

Yep, use one all the time with a circular saw,
essentially because I don’t have a table saw.

And that is irrelevant to the point I was making about what is
best for someone like the OP who has never done a door before.

Something else you've never used, obviously.

There you go, face down in the mud, as always.

Even with the work horizontal and on a workbench, it's not easy to make
a perfect job with a power plane.

You don't need a perfect job with the bottom of a ****ing door, ****wit.

You do if you are charging a customer for it.

No you don’t. No customer will even notice if the bottom
of the door isnt perfectly square with the face of the door
and the OP isnt charging any customer for it anyway.

Indeed, a hand plane is easier to use for the unskilled.

Bull**** for someone who has never used one before.

Something as large as a door is going to be even more difficult.

Nope, just have the door on one of the long edges and the bottom
vertical. Do it half at a time and turn the door over so its on the other
long side when you have done half the bottom and do the other half.

Ha ha ha ha!

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

Why not just for once take the word of those who have actually done the
job?

Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often
than you ever have and done it fine with an electric plane and have
enough of a clue to be able to realise
that someone like the OP isnt going to be able to work out how much to
take off with a circular saw and is much safer doing it a bit at a time
until the door works fine, with an electric planer.

But you haven't done the job as often as I have.

Irrelevant to what is a lot safer for someone
who has never done a door before like the OP.

You're suggesting take a bit off, re hang door,

And mostly find that it now is fine even
if it’s the first one the OP has ever done.

take a bit off, re hang door, take a bit off, re hang door. It would take
all day.

It didn’t for anyone who has done it that way.

Getting the right amount off is dead simple.

Not for someone who has never done a door before.

Position door next to frame resting on a couple of spacers (pencils work
fine). Measure distance between hinge rebate and hinge. Remove that amount
from bottom. Perfect job.

Not if you want less gap than a pencil under the door.

And the OP wouldn’t even think of doing it like that.

And the FAQ doesn’t even spell that out either.

And for the OP, there is a lot more work involved
in making a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t
have than just using an electric plane on the one
door he wants to do.

Doesn't matter how quick it is for him.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Tim Watts wrote

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood
clamped to the door to use as a guide will do fine.

Not entirely true - an electric plane will
be fine - I've done it, on several doors.

Me too.

I suppose it depends on the door design,

Not much.

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Of course you are halfwit. They are called stiles.

There isnt enough of them on the bottom of a door to matter, ****wit.

And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either.

You don’t need a perfect edge with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

A sharp circular saw up against a bit of straight wood as a
guide will give a near perfect cut along and across the grain.

You don’t need a perfect cut with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

Yes, a circular saw and a sawboard is certainly quicker when
you have those and are being paid to do that, but the plane
is a lot better when doing it for the first time because you
get to take a bit off at a time until the door work well and
there is no risk of taking off too much when its done in one
go. It isnt easy for someone like the OP who doesn’t even
know how to do it to work out how much to take off. With
a plane you can do it a bit at a time and stop when its enough.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to
come off the far edge, but to plane from both edges to the
middle, otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Stuart Noble wrote

Here's the thing. Pro door hangers use a plane because often they
don't have the space to lay the door out on sawhorses or whatever and,
because they do sod all else all day, they're pretty good at it. For the
rest of us, and I include chippies who don't hang doors all day long,
the circ saw method is pretty foolproof

Like hell it is. The problem with using a circular saw is that it is
MUCH harder for someone who has never done a door before to work out how
much to take off. MUCH safer to trim the door gradually with a plane
until it clears the new carpet or tiles.

Or do it properly and get it right first time.

Very unlikely the OP would manage to do that
and even if he does, there is a lot more work to
make a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t have
than to do it with an electric plane more safely
for the door and get a perfectly acceptable result.

David Lang wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things. Didn't
think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.

It isnt enough of the bottom of the door to matter.

And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges anyway.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Stuart Noble wrote
whisky-dave wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't
shut as pile is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit
off the bottom - a plane I presume but I've not used one for
years so what's a reasonable low cost one.

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps
a plane would have, but I only needed a few mm's off, it was
a relativley weak bathroom door rather than solid wood.

The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing
at all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and
handsaw merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Bull****, ****wit.

En el artículo om, bm
escribió:

It's difficult enough to decipher your normal ****e

The silly **** is really off on one at the moment, isn't he. Probably
not getting any shags.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=) # ik ben Brussel
(")_(")

On 24/03/2016 19:58, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things.
Didn't think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.

It isnt enough of the bottom of the door to matter.

And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges anyway.


Idiot. You have clearly never trimmed a door.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 19:53, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Tim Watts wrote

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood
clamped to the door to use as a guide will do fine.

Not entirely true - an electric plane will
be fine - I've done it, on several doors.

Me too.

I suppose it depends on the door design,

Not much.

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Of course you are halfwit. They are called stiles.

There isnt enough of them on the bottom of a door to matter, ****wit.

So you now agree that there is end grain on the bottom of a door?

You are an utter idiot. If you plane across the end grain of the stiles
it will break out and look awful.

And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either.

You don’t need a perfect edge with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

A sharp circular saw up against a bit of straight wood as a
guide will give a near perfect cut along and across the grain.

You don’t need a perfect cut with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

Yes, a circular saw and a sawboard is certainly quicker when
you have those and are being paid to do that, but the plane
is a lot better when doing it for the first time because you
get to take a bit off at a time until the door work well and
there is no risk of taking off too much when its done in one
go. It isnt easy for someone like the OP who doesn’t even
know how to do it to work out how much to take off. With
a plane you can do it a bit at a time and stop when its enough.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to
come off the far edge, but to plane from both edges to the
middle, otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.




--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things.
Didn't think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.

It isn't enough of the bottom of the door to matter.

And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges anyway.

Idiot.

****wit.

You have clearly never trimmed a door.

You're face down in the mud on that, as always.

On 24/03/2016 20:00, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Stuart Noble wrote
whisky-dave wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as
pile is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the
bottom - a plane I presume but I've not used one for years so
what's a reasonable low cost one.

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane
would have, but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley
weak bathroom door rather than solid wood.

The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing
at all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and
handsaw merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Bull****, ****wit.

Do stop making a fool of yourself. Five minutes ago you didn't even know
there was end grain on the bottom of a door.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 19:51, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me,

No thanks.

it's quicker & more accurate.

But not as good for the OP who isnt likely to be able to work
out just how much should be removed. Much safer to do it
more gradually with an electric plane for someone like that.

Have you ever used a sawboard?

Yep, use one all the time with a circular saw,
essentially because I don’t have a table saw.

And that is irrelevant to the point I was making about what is
best for someone like the OP who has never done a door before.

Something else you've never used, obviously.

There you go, face down in the mud, as always.

Even with the work horizontal and on a workbench, it's not easy to
make a perfect job with a power plane.

You don't need a perfect job with the bottom of a ****ing door, ****wit.

You do if you are charging a customer for it.

No you don’t. No customer will even notice if the bottom
of the door isnt perfectly square with the face of the door
and the OP isnt charging any customer for it anyway.

Indeed, a hand plane is easier to use for the unskilled.

Bull**** for someone who has never used one before.

Something as large as a door is going to be even more difficult.

Nope, just have the door on one of the long edges and the bottom
vertical. Do it half at a time and turn the door over so its on the
other
long side when you have done half the bottom and do the other half.

Ha ha ha ha!

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

It's all your feeble argument deserves.

Why not just for once take the word of those who have actually done
the job?

Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often
than you ever have and done it fine with an electric plane and have
enough of a clue to be able to realise
that someone like the OP isnt going to be able to work out how much
to take off with a circular saw and is much safer doing it a bit at a
time until the door works fine, with an electric planer.

But you haven't done the job as often as I have.

Irrelevant to what is a lot safer for someone
who has never done a door before like the OP.

So, in your rant above you claim "Because I have done the ****ing job a
lot more often than you ever have." But when you come across someone
who has trimmed more doors than you could count its irrelevant?

You're suggesting take a bit off, re hang door,

And mostly find that it now is fine even
if it’s the first one the OP has ever done.

take a bit off, re hang door, take a bit off, re hang door. It would
take all day.

It didn’t for anyone who has done it that way.

Getting the right amount off is dead simple.

Not for someone who has never done a door before.

Which you clearly haven't.

Position door next to frame resting on a couple of spacers (pencils
work fine). Measure distance between hinge rebate and hinge. Remove
that amount from bottom. Perfect job.

Not if you want less gap than a pencil under the door.

Halfwit. The weight of the door pushes the pencils into the carpet
slightly and gives a perfect result.

And the OP wouldn’t even think of doing it like that.

And the FAQ doesn’t even spell that out either.

And for the OP, there is a lot more work involved
in making a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t
have than just using an electric plane on the one
door he wants to do.

You can make a sawboard from scrap timber in 10 minutes, halfwit.

Doesn't matter how quick it is for him.




--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 19:56, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Stuart Noble wrote

Here's the thing. Pro door hangers use a plane because often they
don't have the space to lay the door out on sawhorses or whatever
and, because they do sod all else all day, they're pretty good at
it. For the rest of us, and I include chippies who don't hang doors
all day long, the circ saw method is pretty foolproof

Like hell it is. The problem with using a circular saw is that it is
MUCH harder for someone who has never done a door before to work out
how much to take off. MUCH safer to trim the door gradually with a
plane until it clears the new carpet or tiles.

Or do it properly and get it right first time.

Very unlikely the OP would manage to do that
and even if he does, there is a lot more work to
make a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t have
than to do it with an electric plane more safely
for the door and get a perfectly acceptable result.

You have clearly never used an electric plane.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 22:29, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things.
Didn't think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.

It isn't enough of the bottom of the door to matter.

And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges anyway.

Idiot.

****wit.

You have clearly never trimmed a door.

You're face down in the mud on that, as always.

I don't think so, halfwit. You didn't even know there was end grain on
the bottom of a door, then you made a bigger fool of yourself by
claiming "It isn't enough of the bottom of the door to matter" and an
even bigger fool of yourself by claiming "And no one can see it once the
door is back on the hinges anyway."

Do stop making a fool of yourself. Take a day off.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

"Mike Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
En el artículo om, bm
escribió:

It's difficult enough to decipher your normal ****e

The silly **** is really off on one at the moment, isn't he. Probably
not getting any shags.

Yers, the place seems full to the gunwales with toys.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Tim Watts wrote

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood
clamped to the door to use as a guide will do fine.

Not entirely true - an electric plane will
be fine - I've done it, on several doors.

Me too.

I suppose it depends on the door design,

Not much.

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Of course you are halfwit. They are called stiles.

There isnt enough of them on the bottom of a door to matter, ****wit.

So you now agree that there is end grain on the bottom of a door?

Not enough to matter and you can't see it with the door back in place
anyway.

You are an utter idiot.

You are a terminal ****wit.

If you plane across the end grain of the stiles it will break out and look
awful.

You don’t know that there is any stile
visible in the door the OP wants to do.

And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either.

You don’t need a perfect edge with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

I've designed and build an entire passive solar house on a
bare block of land, more than you have ever done, thanks.

A sharp circular saw up against a bit of straight wood as a
guide will give a near perfect cut along and across the grain.

You don’t need a perfect cut with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

I've designed and build an entire passive solar house on a
bare block of land, more than you have ever done, thanks.

Yes, a circular saw and a sawboard is certainly quicker when
you have those and are being paid to do that, but the plane
is a lot better when doing it for the first time because you
get to take a bit off at a time until the door work well and
there is no risk of taking off too much when its done in one
go. It isnt easy for someone like the OP who doesn’t even
know how to do it to work out how much to take off. With
a plane you can do it a bit at a time and stop when its enough.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to
come off the far edge, but to plane from both edges to the
middle, otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

He clearly didn’t have any problem with the stiles either.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Stuart Noble wrote
whisky-dave wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't
shut as pile is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit
off the bottom - a plane I presume but I've not used one for
years so what's a reasonable low cost one.

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane
would have, but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley
weak bathroom door rather than solid wood.

The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing
at all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and
handsaw merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Bull****, ****wit.

Do stop making a fool of yourself.

You're the one doing that.

Five minutes ago you didn't even know there
was end grain on the bottom of a door.

You're lying thru your ****ing teeth, just like
you always end up doing when you have got
done like a ****ing dinner, as you always are.

When you're in a ****ing hole, STOP DIGGING, ****wit.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me,

No thanks.

it's quicker & more accurate.

But not as good for the OP who isnt likely to be able to work
out just how much should be removed. Much safer to do it
more gradually with an electric plane for someone like that.

Have you ever used a sawboard?

Yep, use one all the time with a circular saw,
essentially because I don’t have a table saw.

And that is irrelevant to the point I was making about what is
best for someone like the OP who has never done a door before.

Something else you've never used, obviously.

There you go, face down in the mud, as always.

Even with the work horizontal and on a workbench, it's not easy to
make a perfect job with a power plane.

You don't need a perfect job with the bottom of a ****ing door,
****wit.

You do if you are charging a customer for it.

No you don’t. No customer will even notice if the bottom
of the door isnt perfectly square with the face of the door
and the OP isnt charging any customer for it anyway.

Indeed, a hand plane is easier to use for the unskilled.

Bull**** for someone who has never used one before.

Something as large as a door is going to be even more difficult.

Nope, just have the door on one of the long edges and the bottom
vertical. Do it half at a time and turn the door over so its on the
other
long side when you have done half the bottom and do the other half.

Ha ha ha ha!

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

It's all your feeble argument deserves.

Must explain why you are making such a spectacular fool of
yourself going on and on and on with your mindless silly ****
that has no relevance what so ever to what the OP asked about.

Why not just for once take the word of those who have actually done
the job?

Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often
than you ever have and done it fine with an electric plane and have
enough of a clue to be able to realise that someone like the OP isnt
going to be able to work out how much to take off with a circular saw
and is much safer doing it a bit at a time until the door works fine,
with an electric planer.

But you haven't done the job as often as I have.

Irrelevant to what is a lot safer for someone
who has never done a door before like the OP.

So, in your rant above

You never could bull**** and lie your way out of a wet paper bag.

you claim "Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often than you
ever have."

It isn't a claim, it’s a fact.

But when you come across someone who has trimmed more doors than you could
count its irrelevant?

Its completely irrelevant to what is SAFER FOR THE OP, ****wit.

You're suggesting take a bit off, re hang door,

Nope, no need to rehang the door, just stand it up
on the new higher floor covering and see if its now
got where the hinges go a little lower than where
the hinges attach.

And mostly find that it now is fine even
if it’s the first one the OP has ever done.

take a bit off, re hang door, take a bit off, re hang door. It would
take all day.

Not when you have enough of a ****ing clue
to not bother to rehang the door every time
you check if enough has been removed, even
if you were doing it.

It didn’t for anyone who has done it that way.

Getting the right amount off is dead simple.

Not for someone who has never done a door before.

Which you clearly haven't.

There you go again, face down in the ****ing mud, as always.

Position door next to frame resting on a couple of spacers (pencils work
fine). Measure distance between hinge rebate and hinge. Remove that
amount from bottom. Perfect job.

Not if you want less gap than a pencil under the door.

Halfwit.

****wit.

The weight of the door pushes the pencils into the carpet slightly and
gives a perfect result.

Pity about when it's not carpet and that approach doesn’t.

And the OP wouldn’t even think of doing it like that.

And the FAQ doesn’t even spell that out either.

And for the OP, there is a lot more work involved
in making a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t
have than just using an electric plane on the one
door he wants to do.

You can make a sawboard from scrap timber in 10 minutes, halfwit.

You don’t know that he has any scrap timber, ****wit.

Doesn't matter how quick it is for him.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Stuart Noble wrote

Here's the thing. Pro door hangers use a plane because often they
don't have the space to lay the door out on sawhorses or whatever
and, because they do sod all else all day, they're pretty good at
it. For the rest of us, and I include chippies who don't hang doors
all day long, the circ saw method is pretty foolproof

Like hell it is. The problem with using a circular saw is that it is
MUCH harder for someone who has never done a door before to work out
how much to take off. MUCH safer to trim the door gradually with a
plane until it clears the new carpet or tiles.

Or do it properly and get it right first time.

Very unlikely the OP would manage to do that
and even if he does, there is a lot more work to
make a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t have
than to do it with an electric plane more safely
for the door and get a perfectly acceptable result.

You have clearly never used an electric plane.

There you go again, face down in the ****ing mud, as always.

Even a terminal ****wit such as yourself should be
able to use groups.google and see where I have
had quite a bit to say about where I have used
one, long before you ever showed up, thanks.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Rod Speed wrote

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things.
Didn't think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.

It isn't enough of the bottom of the door to matter.

And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges anyway.

Idiot.

****wit.

You have clearly never trimmed a door.

You're face down in the mud on that, as always.

I don't think so, halfwit.

I know so, ****wit.

You didn't even know there was end grain on the bottom of a door,

You're lying thru your ****ing teeth, as always.

then you made a bigger fool of yourself by claiming "It isn't enough of
the bottom of the door to matter" and an even bigger fool of yourself by
claiming "And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges
anyway."

You can't with a modern hollow core door, ****wit.

Do stop making a fool of yourself. Take a day off.

Go and **** yourself, again.

On 24/03/2016 23:15, Rod Speed wrote:


Nope, just have the door on one of the long edges and the bottom
vertical. Do it half at a time and turn the door over so its on the
other
long side when you have done half the bottom and do the other half.

Ha ha ha ha!

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

It's all your feeble argument deserves.

Must explain why you are making such a spectacular fool of
yourself going on and on and on with your mindless silly ****
that has no relevance what so ever to what the OP asked about.

You already have the reputation around here of being an idiot, you don't
need to keep reinforcing it.

The OP specifically asked what tool to use.

Why not just for once take the word of those who have actually
done the job?

Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often
than you ever have and done it fine with an electric plane and have
enough of a clue to be able to realise that someone like the OP
isnt going to be able to work out how much to take off with a
circular saw and is much safer doing it a bit at a time until the
door works fine, with an electric planer.

But you haven't done the job as often as I have.

Irrelevant to what is a lot safer for someone
who has never done a door before like the OP.

So, in your rant above

You never could bull**** and lie your way out of a wet paper bag.

I don't need to, I know how to trim a door. I trim more doors in a year
than you have in your life.

you claim "Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often than
you ever have."

It isn't a claim, it’s a fact.

But when you come across someone who has trimmed more doors than you
could count its irrelevant?

Its completely irrelevant to what is SAFER FOR THE OP, ****wit.

Stop digging, halfwit. A circular saw & sawboard are much safer that a
power planer.

You're suggesting take a bit off, re hang door,

Nope, no need to rehang the door, just stand it up
on the new higher floor covering and see if its now
got where the hinges go a little lower than where
the hinges attach.

You bring bodging to a higher level.

And mostly find that it now is fine even
if it’s the first one the OP has ever done.

take a bit off, re hang door, take a bit off, re hang door. It
would take all day.

Not when you have enough of a ****ing clue
to not bother to rehang the door every time
you check if enough has been removed, even
if you were doing it.

It didn’t for anyone who has done it that way.

Getting the right amount off is dead simple.

Not for someone who has never done a door before.

Which you clearly haven't.

There you go again, face down in the ****ing mud, as always.

Do stop making a fool of yourself. What was it you said? "Wota stunning
line in rational argument you have there."

Please examine your feet for bullet holes.

Position door next to frame resting on a couple of spacers (pencils
work fine). Measure distance between hinge rebate and hinge. Remove
that amount from bottom. Perfect job.

Not if you want less gap than a pencil under the door.

Halfwit.

****wit.

The weight of the door pushes the pencils into the carpet slightly and
gives a perfect result.

Pity about when it's not carpet and that approach doesn’t.

Being a civilized and sophisticated country we have lots of carpet. I
assume you still have mud floors?

And the OP wouldn’t even think of doing it like that.

And the FAQ doesn’t even spell that out either.

And for the OP, there is a lot more work involved
in making a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t
have than just using an electric plane on the one
door he wants to do.

You can make a sawboard from scrap timber in 10 minutes, halfwit.

You don’t know that he has any scrap timber, ****wit.

As I said, we are a civilized and sophisticated country. We have plenty
of places where you can buy offcuts of timber.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 23:17, Rod Speed wrote:

for the door and get a perfectly acceptable result.

You have clearly never used an electric plane.

There you go again, face down in the ****ing mud, as always.

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

Even a terminal ****wit such as yourself should be
able to use groups.google and see where I have
had quite a bit to say about where I have used
one, long before you ever showed up, thanks.

I've probably trimmed 200+ doors in the last 11 years. How many have
you trimmed, halfwit?

(Bead curtains made out of beer bottle tops don't count as doors.)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 23:20, Rod Speed wrote:


but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things.
Didn't think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.

It isn't enough of the bottom of the door to matter.

And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges anyway.

Idiot.

****wit.

You have clearly never trimmed a door.

You're face down in the mud on that, as always.

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.


I don't think so, halfwit.

I know so, ****wit.

I don't think you know anything.

You didn't even know there was end grain on the bottom of a door,

You're lying thru your ****ing teeth, as always.

Oh am I?

At 16:35 you said "You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom
of a door".

Wrong again, halfwit.

then you made a bigger fool of yourself by claiming "It isn't enough
of the bottom of the door to matter" and an even bigger fool of
yourself by claiming "And no one can see it once the door is back on
the hinges anyway."

You can't with a modern hollow core door, ****wit.

Hollow core doors have a frame that extends to the bottom. You can
clearly see the breakout on the stiles. Do they have doors in Oz?

Do stop making a fool of yourself. Take a day off.

Go and **** yourself, again.

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 22:59, Rod Speed wrote:

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Of course you are halfwit. They are called stiles.

There isnt enough of them on the bottom of a door to matter, ****wit.

So you now agree that there is end grain on the bottom of a door?

Not enough to matter and you can't see it with the door back in place
anyway.

The frame on a hollow door extends to the bottom. Have you actually
ever seen one?


You are an utter idiot.

You are a terminal ****wit.

If you plane across the end grain of the stiles it will break out and
look awful.

You don’t know that there is any stile
visible in the door the OP wants to do.

There is on all doors, halfwit.

And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either.

You don’t need a perfect edge with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

I've designed and build an entire passive solar house on a
bare block of land, more than you have ever done, thanks.

I can only assume it didn't have any doors in it.

A sharp circular saw up against a bit of straight wood as a
guide will give a near perfect cut along and across the grain.

You don’t need a perfect cut with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

I've designed and build an entire passive solar house on a
bare block of land, more than you have ever done, thanks.

I can only assume it didn't have any doors in it.

h.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to
come off the far edge, but to plane from both edges to the
middle, otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

He clearly didn’t have any problem with the stiles either.

Which part of "otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner" was too
complicated for you to grasp?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 23:02, Rod Speed wrote:


You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Bull****, ****wit.

Do stop making a fool of yourself.

You're the one doing that.

Shall we have a vote on that? One of us has a reputation of being a
halfwit. It isn't me.

Five minutes ago you didn't even know there was end grain on the
bottom of a door.

You're lying thru your ****ing teeth, just like you always end up doing
when you have got done like a ****ing dinner, as you always are.
When you're in a ****ing hole, STOP DIGGING, ****wit.

Oh am I?

At 16:35 you said "You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom
of a door".

Wrong again, halfwit.

BTW what does "got done like a ****ing dinner" mean in English?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 2016-03-23 22:50:58 +0000, Tim Watts said:

On 23/03/16 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx




I used an electric plane - but check for nails first!

Green Bosch is what I have and it's still find since 1998

If anyone's interested we bought a cheapo electric plane and it worked
fine on this Victorian replica door. Took a while to get enough off.
Kept it fairly straight by using a long spirit level to see how square
it was as we went. In fact it needed shaving a bit more at the
non-hinge end to not foul the carpet so assume it was not swinging very
straight anyway - this is an 1850 house where nothing lines up...

"John Smith" wrote in message
news:2016032500123739106-nospam@nospamcom...
On 2016-03-23 22:50:58 +0000, Tim Watts said:

On 23/03/16 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx




I used an electric plane - but check for nails first!

Green Bosch is what I have and it's still find since 1998

If anyone's interested we bought a cheapo electric plane and it worked
fine on this Victorian replica door. Took a while to get enough off. Kept
it fairly straight by using a long spirit level to see how square it was
as we went. In fact it needed shaving a bit more at the non-hinge end to
not foul the carpet so assume it was not swinging very straight anyway -
this is an 1850 house where nothing lines up...

Must be like Wods place

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote

Nope, just have the door on one of the long edges and the bottom
vertical. Do it half at a time and turn the door over so its on the
other
long side when you have done half the bottom and do the other half.

Ha ha ha ha!

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

It's all your feeble argument deserves.

Must explain why you are making such a spectacular fool of
yourself going on and on and on with your mindless silly ****
that has no relevance what so ever to what the OP asked about.

Obviously completely blotto, as always.

reams of your desperate attempts at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead flushed where they belong

The OP specifically asked what tool to use.

And didn’t say a damned thing about what works
best when its being done for paying customers.

Why not just for once take the word of those who have actually done
the job?

Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often than you ever
have and done it fine with an electric plane and have
enough of a clue to be able to realise that someone like the OP
isnt going to be able to work out how much to take off with a
circular saw and is much safer doing it a bit at a time until the
door works fine, with an electric planer.

But you haven't done the job as often as I have.

Irrelevant to what is a lot safer for someone
who has never done a door before like the OP.

So, in your rant above

You never could bull**** and lie your way out of a wet paper bag.

I don't need to,

Yet you did anyway.

I know how to trim a door. I trim more doors in a year than you have in
your life.

Irrelevant to what works better for the OP who has never done
one before and doesn’t have any of the tools required to do that.

you claim "Because I have done the ****ing job a lot more often than you
ever have."

It isn't a claim, it’s a fact.

But when you come across someone who has trimmed more doors than you
could count its irrelevant?

Its completely irrelevant to what is SAFER FOR THE OP, ****wit.

Stop digging, halfwit.

Go and **** yourself, ****wit.

A circular saw & sawboard are much safer that a power planer.

Pigs arse it is when the power planer can be used to take
off a bit at a time until the door has been trimmed enough.

You're suggesting take a bit off, re hang door,

Nope, no need to rehang the door, just stand it up
on the new higher floor covering and see if its now
got where the hinges go a little lower than where
the hinges attach.

You bring bodging to a higher level.

There is no bodging involved there you pathetic
excuse for a lying bull**** artist. The worst that
can happen with that approach is that it looks
like its been trimmed enough but when you
hang the door again it turns out that it still
isnt quite enough because where you tried
isnt where the highest part of the new floor is
so all you have to do is take the door off again
and take a bit more off the bottom of the door.

Hardly the end of civilisation as we know it and
nothing even remotely like a bodge either.

And mostly find that it now is fine even
if it’s the first one the OP has ever done.

take a bit off, re hang door, take a bit off, re hang door. It would
take all day.

Not when you have enough of a ****ing clue
to not bother to rehang the door every time
you check if enough has been removed, even
if you were doing it.

It didn’t for anyone who has done it that way.

Getting the right amount off is dead simple.

Not for someone who has never done a door before.

Which you clearly haven't.

There you go again, face down in the ****ing mud, as always.

Do stop making a fool of yourself.

You're the one doing that, you silly little drunken ****wit.

What was it you said? "Wota stunning line in rational argument you have
there."

That ain't an argument, it’s a fact, ****wit.

Please examine your feet for bullet holes.

No need to check if you are face down in the
mud over that claim you just made, it's obvious.

Position door next to frame resting on a couple of spacers (pencils
work fine). Measure distance between hinge rebate and hinge. Remove
that amount from bottom. Perfect job.

Not if you want less gap than a pencil under the door.

Halfwit.

****wit.

The weight of the door pushes the pencils into the carpet slightly and
gives a perfect result.

Pity about when it's not carpet and that approach doesn’t.

Being a civilized and sophisticated country we have lots of carpet.

Ever a terminal ****wit such as yourself should have noticed that
there isnt just carpet where doors are in that soggy little frigid island.

reams of your desperate attempts at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead flushed where they belong

And the OP wouldn’t even think of doing it like that.

And the FAQ doesn’t even spell that out either.

And for the OP, there is a lot more work involved
in making a sawboard that he obviously doesn’t
have than just using an electric plane on the one
door he wants to do.

You can make a sawboard from scrap timber in 10 minutes, halfwit.

You don’t know that he has any scrap timber, ****wit.

As I said, we are a civilized and sophisticated country. We have plenty
of places where you can buy offcuts of timber.

No need to bother for just the one door, ****wit.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote

for the door and get a perfectly acceptable result.

You have clearly never used an electric plane.

There you go again, face down in the ****ing mud, as always.

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

Can't even manage its own lines, or even work what
is an argument and what is a statement of fact either,
presumably because its completely ****ing blotto, as always.

No surprise that Nilfisk gave you the bums
rush, right out the ****ing door, onto your
lard arse and you ended up running around
cutting off doors to pay your grog bill.

Even a terminal ****wit such as yourself should be
able to use groups.google and see where I have
had quite a bit to say about where I have used
one, long before you ever showed up, thanks.

I've probably trimmed 200+ doors in the last 11 years.

You'll have to pardon us while we swoon.

Some of us manage to get employed doing stuff that
is a hell of a lot more challenging that trimming doors.

reams of your desperate attempts at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead flushed where they belong

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Thanks for confirming you know less about doors than most things.
Didn't think this possible.

He has no "stile" obviously.

It isn't enough of the bottom of the door to matter.

And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges anyway.

Idiot.

****wit.

You have clearly never trimmed a door.

You're face down in the mud on that, as always.

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

Can't even manage its own lines, or even work what
is an argument and what is a statement of fact either,
presumably because its completely ****ing blotto, as always.

No surprise that Nilfisk gave you the bums
rush, right out the ****ing door, onto your
lard arse and you ended up running around
cutting off doors to pay your grog bill.

I don't think so, halfwit.

I know so, ****wit.

I don't think you know anything.

I know you never could bull**** and lie your way
out of a wet paper bag and that Nilfisk gave you
the bums rush, right out the ****ing door, onto
your lard arse and you ended up running around
cutting off doors to pay your grog bill.

You didn't even know there was end grain on the bottom of a door,

You're lying thru your ****ing teeth, as always.

Oh am I?

Yep.

then you made a bigger fool of yourself by claiming "It isn't enough of
the bottom of the door to matter" and an even bigger fool of yourself by
claiming "And no one can see it once the door is back on the hinges
anyway."

You can't with a modern hollow core door, ****wit.

Hollow core doors have a frame that extends to the bottom.

But when the door is back on the hinges,
you can't see anything of that frame, ****wit.

You can clearly see the breakout on the stiles.

There is no breakout on the stiles, ****wit.

reams of your desperate attempts at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead flushed where they belong

Do stop making a fool of yourself. Take a day off.

Go and **** yourself, again.

Wota stunning line in rational argument you have there.

Can't even manage its own lines, or even work what
is an argument and what is an order either, presumably
because its completely ****ing blotto, as always.

No surprise that Nilfisk gave you the bums
rush, right out the ****ing door, onto your
lard arse and you ended up running around
cutting off doors to pay your grog bill.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

Of course you are halfwit. They are called stiles.

There isnt enough of them on the bottom of a door to matter, ****wit.

So you now agree that there is end grain on the bottom of a door?

Not enough to matter and you can't see it with the door back in place
anyway.

The frame on a hollow door extends to the bottom.

And isnt visible after the door is hung again, ****wit.

Have you actually ever seen one?

Hard to miss them given that I use them
for the top of the workbenches I use for
the electronic stuff and computers, on
frame welded up using 25mm RHS as the
bed base that the mattress goes on too.

You are an utter idiot.

You are a terminal ****wit.

If you plane across the end grain of the stiles it will break out and
look awful.

You don’t know that there is any stile
visible in the door the OP wants to do.

There is on all doors, halfwit.

It isn't VISIBLE on all doors ****wit.

And there is no end grain on the aluminium patio doors either.

Or on the fridge and freezer doors either.

And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either.

You don’t need a perfect edge with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

I've designed and build an entire passive solar house on a
bare block of land, more than you have ever done, thanks.

I can only assume it didn't have any doors in it.

There you go again, face down in the mud, as always.

It does in fact have THIRTEEN patio doors, because
all the rooms except the bathrooms and toilets have
at least one of them instead of a ****ing window.

And there are plenty of internal doors as well.

A sharp circular saw up against a bit of straight wood as a
guide will give a near perfect cut along and across the grain.

You don’t need a perfect cut with the bottom of the door.

Yes you do.

Even sillier than you usually manage.

You are in no position to call anyone silly.

I've designed and build an entire passive solar house on a
bare block of land, more than you have ever done, thanks.

I can only assume it didn't have any doors in it.

There you go again, face down in the mud, as always.

It does in fact have THIRTEEN patio doors, because
all the rooms except the bathrooms and toilets have
at least one of them instead of a ****ing window.

And there are plenty of internal doors as well.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to
come off the far edge, but to plane from both edges to the
middle, otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

He clearly didn’t have any problem with the stiles either.

Which part of "otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner" was too
complicated for you to grasp?

No need to ask you what part of "I learnt that on door #1 !
After that it was fine" was too complicated for you to grasp,
it's obvious all of it was. Just one word with more than one
syllable too.

No surprise that Nilfisk gave you the bums
rush, right out the ****ing door, onto your
lard arse and you ended up running around
cutting off doors to pay your grog bill.

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Bull****, ****wit.

Do stop making a fool of yourself.

You're the one doing that.

Shall we have a vote on that?

We've already had a lot more say that they have
trimmed doors using a plane than bother with
a sawboard and circular saw when they don’t
already have one.

reams of your desperate attempts at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead flushed where they belong

Five minutes ago you didn't even know there was end grain on the bottom
of a door.

You're lying thru your ****ing teeth, just like you always end up doing
when you have got done like a ****ing dinner, as you always are.
When you're in a ****ing hole, STOP DIGGING, ****wit.

Oh am I?

Yep.

reams of your desperate attempts at insults any 2 year
old could leave for dead flushed where they belong

David Lang Wrote in message:
On 24/03/2016 23:02, Rod Speed wrote:


You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Bull****, ****wit.

Do stop making a fool of yourself.

You're the one doing that.

Shall we have a vote on that? One of us has a reputation of being a
halfwit. It isn't me.

Though your pointless, endless arguing with Rod does make one
wonder.....


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Chris French


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