Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

On 23/03/16 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx




I used an electric plane - but check for nails first!

Green Bosch is what I have and it's still find since 1998

On 2016-03-23 22:50:58 +0000, Tim Watts said:

On 23/03/16 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx




I used an electric plane - but check for nails first!

Green Bosch is what I have and it's still find since 1998

If anyone's interested we bought a cheapo electric plane and it worked
fine on this Victorian replica door. Took a while to get enough off.
Kept it fairly straight by using a long spirit level to see how square
it was as we went. In fact it needed shaving a bit more at the
non-hinge end to not foul the carpet so assume it was not swinging very
straight anyway - this is an 1850 house where nothing lines up...

"John Smith" wrote in message
news:2016032500123739106-nospam@nospamcom...
On 2016-03-23 22:50:58 +0000, Tim Watts said:

On 23/03/16 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx




I used an electric plane - but check for nails first!

Green Bosch is what I have and it's still find since 1998

If anyone's interested we bought a cheapo electric plane and it worked
fine on this Victorian replica door. Took a while to get enough off. Kept
it fairly straight by using a long spirit level to see how square it was
as we went. In fact it needed shaving a bit more at the non-hinge end to
not foul the carpet so assume it was not swinging very straight anyway -
this is an 1850 house where nothing lines up...

Must be like Wods place

John Smith Wrote in message:
On 2016-03-23 22:50:58 +0000, Tim Watts said:

On 23/03/16 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx




I used an electric plane - but check for nails first!

Green Bosch is what I have and it's still find since 1998

If anyone's interested we bought a cheapo electric plane and it worked
fine on this Victorian replica door. Took a while to get enough off.
Kept it fairly straight by using a long spirit level to see how square
it was as we went. In fact it needed shaving a bit more at the
non-hinge end to not foul the carpet so assume it was not swinging very
straight anyway - this is an 1850 house where nothing lines up...



Glad you found a helpful answer amongst all the pointless arguing
, and have done the job :-)
--
--
Chris French


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door
won't shut as pile is too thick. What's the best tool to
take off a bit off the bottom - a plane I presume

Yes.

but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable low cost one.

Makes more sense to hire one given you don't normally use one.

At most get a used one from freecycle or ebay etc.
Almost anything will do with what you want to do.

Just be careful about any metal bits in the
corners if it's a relatively modern door.

On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 23:10:06 UTC, Rod Speed wrote:
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door
won't shut as pile is too thick. What's the best tool to
take off a bit off the bottom - a plane I presume

Yes.

but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable low cost one.

Makes more sense to hire one given you don't normally use one.

You can buy one for less than anything you can hire. Ignore Rod, he's a time waster.


NT

On 23/03/2016 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx



A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

David Lang wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile is
too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door,

It works fine there with an electric plane.

it's fine on the edges.

Its fine for the bottom too and is a lot easier to use
taking off a bit at a time so you don’t end up with too
much of a gap under the door when you are finished.

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

On 24/03/2016 00:07, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as
pile is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the
bottom - a plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's
a reasonable low cost one.

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door,

It works fine there with an electric plane.

it's fine on the edges.

Its fine for the bottom too and is a lot easier to use
taking off a bit at a time so you don’t end up with too
much of a gap under the door when you are finished.

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me, it's quicker & more
accurate.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
David Lang wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door,

It works fine there with an electric plane.

it's fine on the edges.

Its fine for the bottom too and is a lot easier to use
taking off a bit at a time so you don’t end up with too
much of a gap under the door when you are finished.

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me,

No thanks.

it's quicker & more accurate.

But not as good for the OP who isnt likely to be able to work
out just how much should be removed. Much safer to do it
more gradually with an electric plane for someone like that.

Doesn’t matter how quick it is for him.

In article ,
Rod Speed wrote:
You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me,

No thanks.

it's quicker & more accurate.

But not as good for the OP who isnt likely to be able to work
out just how much should be removed. Much safer to do it
more gradually with an electric plane for someone like that.

Something else you've never used, obviously. Even with the work horizontal
and on a workbench, it's not easy to make a perfect job with a power
plane. Indeed, a hand plane is easier to use for the unskilled.

Something as large as a door is going to be even more difficult. Why not
just for once take the word of those who have actually done the job?

Doesn’t matter how quick it is for him.

--
*Husbands should come with instructions

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

David Lang wrote:
On 24/03/2016 00:07, Rod Speed wrote:
David Lang wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as
pile is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the
bottom - a plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's
a reasonable low cost one.

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door,

It works fine there with an electric plane.

it's fine on the edges.

Its fine for the bottom too and is a lot easier to use
taking off a bit at a time so you don’t end up with too
much of a gap under the door when you are finished.

You need a circular saw and a sawboard

Nowhere near as good IMO.

I've trimmed around 15 doors this year. Trust me, it's quicker & more
accurate.



If it's a composite hollow door, the bottom strip will be very thin. You
may be better off to remove the strip carefully before sawing off the
bottom of the door, then replace the strip. BTDTBTTS!

In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.

--
*If God dropped acid, would he see people?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 24/03/16 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.


Not entirely true - an electric plane will be fine - I've done it, on
several doors.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to come off the
far edge, but to plane from both edges to the middle, otherwise you can
knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 24/03/16 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.


Not entirely true - an electric plane will be fine - I've done it, on
several doors.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to come off the far
edge, but to plane from both edges to the middle, otherwise you can knock
a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

Spot on.

On 24/03/2016 08:11, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/03/16 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.


Not entirely true - an electric plane will be fine - I've done it, on
several doors.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to come off the
far edge, but to plane from both edges to the middle, otherwise you can
knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

That's precisely why a circular saw & sawboard s better.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/16 08:26, David Lang wrote:
On 24/03/2016 08:11, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/03/16 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.


Not entirely true - an electric plane will be fine - I've done it, on
several doors.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to come off the
far edge, but to plane from both edges to the middle, otherwise you can
knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

That's precisely why a circular saw & sawboard s better.


My reasons we I had no use for a circular saw, but a plane looked
useful, so I went for the plane.

For some reason I've never liked hand held circular saws - I would
rather muddle through with a jigsaw

In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.


Not entirely true - an electric plane will be fine - I've done it, on
several doors.

I suppose it depends on the door design, but planing across the grain
isn't usually the best way. And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either. A sharp circular saw up against
a bit of straight wood as a guide will give a near perfect cut along and
across the grain.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to come off the
far edge, but to plane from both edges to the middle, otherwise you can
knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

--
*The colder the X-ray table, the more of your body is required on it *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 11:32:40 AM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.


Not entirely true - an electric plane will be fine - I've done it, on
several doors.

I suppose it depends on the door design, but planing across the grain
isn't usually the best way. And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either. A sharp circular saw up against
a bit of straight wood as a guide will give a near perfect cut along and
across the grain.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to come off the
far edge, but to plane from both edges to the middle, otherwise you can
knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

--
*The colder the X-ray table, the more of your body is required on it *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

That's what I did on two occasions with no problems.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote
Tim Watts wrote

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood
clamped to the door to use as a guide will do fine.

Not entirely true - an electric plane will
be fine - I've done it, on several doors.

Me too.

I suppose it depends on the door design,

Not much.

but planing across the grain isn't usually the best way.

You aren't planing across the grain with the bottom of a door and
you don’t need the best way with the bottom of a door anyway.

And electric planes ain't the easiest of
things to get a perfect edge with either.

You don’t need a perfect edge with the bottom of the door.

A sharp circular saw up against a bit of straight wood as a
guide will give a near perfect cut along and across the grain.

You don’t need a perfect cut with the bottom of the door.

Yes, a circular saw and a sawboard is certainly quicker when
you have those and are being paid to do that, but the plane
is a lot better when doing it for the first time because you
get to take a bit off at a time until the door work well and
there is no risk of taking off too much when its done in one
go. It isnt easy for someone like the OP who doesn’t even
know how to do it to work out how much to take off. With
a plane you can do it a bit at a time and stop when its enough.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to
come off the far edge, but to plane from both edges to the
middle, otherwise you can knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.

Tim Watts Wrote in message:
On 24/03/16 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.


Not entirely true - an electric plane will be fine - I've done it, on
several doors.

The one thing with a plane on a door top/bottom is not to come off the
far edge, but to plane from both edges to the middle, otherwise you can
knock a lump off the corner.

I learnt that on door #1 !

After that it was fine.


Indeed +1

Which fits with laying the door on each of its long edges and
planingin vertically down from each of the bottom corners
towards the middle (of the door bottom), watching your marked
line and squareness across the door thickness of the planing as
you progress....iyswim :-D

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

On 24/03/2016 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.

It will work, agreed. But a sawboard is easier and prevents splintering.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

On 24/03/2016 08:25, David Lang wrote:
On 24/03/2016 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.

It will work, agreed. But a sawboard is easier and prevents splintering.



+1
For accuracy on door trimming the tool needs to be following a guide,
hence the circ saw method really is a no brainer

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
On 24/03/2016 08:25, David Lang wrote:
On 24/03/2016 00:58, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
David Lang wrote:

A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.

Agreed about the saw, but a bit of straight wood clamped to the door to
use as a guide will do fine.

It will work, agreed. But a sawboard is easier and prevents splintering.



+1
For accuracy on door trimming the tool needs to be following a guide,

Doesn’t need to be accurate with the bottom of a door.

hence the circ saw method really is a no brainer

Wrong, as always.

On 23/03/2016 23:38, David Lang wrote:
On 23/03/2016 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx



A plane isn't the right tool to trim the bottom of a door, it's fine on
the edges. You need a circular saw and a sawboard
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Sawboard


Agreed. Unless it's only 1 or 2mm - and even then I find it difficult to
get a consistent depth with a plane.

Even a cheap circular saw will work fine with a sawboard.


Yep - just did one with the Lidl cordless circular saw and the
surprisingly good sawboard.

--
Cheers, Rob

On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 22:48:22 UTC, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane would have,
but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley weak bathroom door rather than solid wood.

On 24/03/2016 11:43, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 22:48:22 UTC, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane would have,
but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley weak bathroom door rather than solid wood.


The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing at
all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and handsaw
merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
On 24/03/2016 11:43, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 22:48:22 UTC, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane would
have,
but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley weak bathroom door
rather than solid wood.


The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing at all
at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and handsaw
merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

I recently replaced 6 internal doors, whichever cowboys did them originally
didn't even bother to replace the bottom rails on 3, just open-bottomed
doors.

On 24/03/2016 13:13, bm wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
On 24/03/2016 11:43, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 22:48:22 UTC, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane would
have,
but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley weak bathroom door
rather than solid wood.


The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing at all
at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and handsaw
merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

I recently replaced 6 internal doors, whichever cowboys did them originally
didn't even bother to replace the bottom rails on 3, just open-bottomed
doors.


I come across hem all the time.....


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
On 24/03/2016 11:43, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 22:48:22 UTC, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane would
have,
but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley weak bathroom door
rather than solid wood.


The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing at all
at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and handsaw
merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

On 24/03/2016 17:12, Rod Speed wrote:


"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
On 24/03/2016 11:43, whisky-dave wrote:
On Wednesday, 23 March 2016 22:48:22 UTC, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps a plane
would have,
but I only needed a few mm's off, it was a relativley weak bathroom
door rather than solid wood.


The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing at
all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and
handsaw merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman

David Lang wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Stuart Noble wrote
whisky-dave wrote
John Smith wrote

Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't
shut as pile is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit
off the bottom - a plane I presume but I've not used one for
years so what's a reasonable low cost one.

I used a rasp last time, took a while longer than perhaps
a plane would have, but I only needed a few mm's off, it was
a relativley weak bathroom door rather than solid wood.

The beauty of the circ saw method is that you can take off nothing
at all at one end and, say, 5mm at the other. Perfect cut every time.
Plenty of doors have been butchered over the years by plane and
handsaw merchants, and this is a way of straightening things up.

But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Bull****, ****wit.

In article ,
David Lang wrote:
But the major downside for someone like the OP is that you
do need to be able to calculate how much needs to be taken
off and you've ****ed the door if you take off too much. The
big advantage with using a plane is that that approach is a
lot more forgiving so you are much less likely to **** the door.

You are far more likely to fuber the door with a power plane, halfwit.

Quite. Anyone who recommends a power plane to a newbie for a one off job
has never used one. Especially on something as unwieldy as a door.

--
*Sorry, I don't date outside my species.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article 2016032322481284536-nospam@nospamcom,
John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

Do you mean that when the door is wide open there was enough room under it
for the carpet fitters to put down the carpet and that it's only when you
try to close it that it becomes jammed?

If you just want to be able to close the door even if it is still a bit
stiff from rubbing, then it should be possible to remove enough off of the
bottom of the door without removing it, by sanding.

What I do is make up a simple tool from thin flexible steel to hold the
abbrasive paper and move the door backwards and forwards over it. A piece
about 2ft by 4in is suitable, bend over the last 2in on each end and cut a
piece of sand paper to fit pressing down the ends to hold it in place.
Open the door wide and push it under the end, use your foot to hold it in
place and move the door backwards and forwards over it 20 times, move the
tool inwards and repeat until you reach the hinge end and then move
outwards repeating. Hoover up the debris put on a new piece of abbrasive,
close the door a bit and repeat. Keep doing this until enough has been
removed to allow the door to close. It's a bit tedious but if you have
kids or grandchildren they'll have fun "helping".

I'm assuming that you have checked that the fitters did their job properly
and haven't trapped underlay or carpet under the metal door sill stopping
it from closing.

Alan

--


Using an ARMX6

On 25/03/2016 12:17, Alan Dawes wrote:
In article 2016032322481284536-nospam@nospamcom,
John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

thx

Do you mean that when the door is wide open there was enough room under it
for the carpet fitters to put down the carpet and that it's only when you
try to close it that it becomes jammed?

If you just want to be able to close the door even if it is still a bit
stiff from rubbing, then it should be possible to remove enough off of the
bottom of the door without removing it, by sanding.

What I do is make up a simple tool from thin flexible steel to hold the
abbrasive paper and move the door backwards and forwards over it. A piece
about 2ft by 4in is suitable, bend over the last 2in on each end and cut a
piece of sand paper to fit pressing down the ends to hold it in place.
Open the door wide and push it under the end, use your foot to hold it in
place and move the door backwards and forwards over it 20 times, move the
tool inwards and repeat until you reach the hinge end and then move
outwards repeating. Hoover up the debris put on a new piece of abbrasive,
close the door a bit and repeat. Keep doing this until enough has been
removed to allow the door to close. It's a bit tedious but if you have
kids or grandchildren they'll have fun "helping".

I'm assuming that you have checked that the fitters did their job properly
and haven't trapped underlay or carpet under the metal door sill stopping
it from closing.

Alan


I'm tired out just thinking about that approach :-)

On 23/03/2016 22:48, John Smith wrote:
Wife has fitted a new carpet in a room and now door won't shut as pile
is too thick. What's the best tool to take off a bit off the bottom - a
plane I presume but I've not used one for years so what's a reasonable
low cost one.

You have certainly excited a hornets nest with this question.

For a one-off door I would use a power planer, with one proviso, that
you always push into the door, and never let the blade emerge whilst
cutting across the grain.

I would run a pencil on top of the carpet marking the door along the
whole of the bottom, so leaving a couple of mm clearance. Best done with
the door near shut.

Take door off.

Set plane to near zero depth setting.

Run plane in from one side, and after a few strokes adjust depth to take
off some material, the same from the other side.

If you allow the plane to emerge whilst cutting across the grain, the
blade will take with it a chunk of door. This is why even Mr Lang says
he is happy to use a planer on the sides, where you'd be planing along
the grain.

If you have the time and the resources, the sawboard method is perhaps
the most reliable.

In article ,
Fredxxx wrote:
If you have the time and the resources, the sawboard method is perhaps
the most reliable.

Assuming you have the sense to know how to mark how much to take off, it's
quicker. Done in one pass with a near perfect cut - which you'd need a lot
of skill to do with a power plane.

I get the impression few here remember the first time they used a power
plane. Or just have very low standards.

--
*Where do forest rangers go to "get away from it all?"

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 27/03/2016 15:21, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


I get the impression few here remember the first time they used a power
plane. Or just have very low standards.


ROFLMAO!

On 27/03/2016 15:21, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Fredxxx wrote:
If you have the time and the resources, the sawboard method is perhaps
the most reliable.

Assuming you have the sense to know how to mark how much to take off, it's
quicker. Done in one pass with a near perfect cut - which you'd need a lot
of skill to do with a power plane.

You have to make the sawboard first.

I get the impression few here remember the first time they used a power
plane. Or just have very low standards.

For many years I used a conventional plane, then bought a B&D power
variety and never looked back until the armature burnt out on that and
the second one was stolen.

As you imply, I don't recall the very first time I used one, but was
probably very careful taking just very thin cuts. I feel you have more
control than the hand planer.