While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

On 03/07/2014 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...


Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

On Thursday, 3 July 2014 09:03:37 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:

snip

Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.


Or reglaze it

or get some of that clear self adhesive safety film that you can stick to inner face to "turn it into" laminated styley while you get a tuit?

Cheers
Jim K

On 03/07/14 09:37, Huge wrote:
On 2014-07-03, Tim Watts wrote:

You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

It isn't fussing. My mother fell through some secondary double glazing
on the French windows in our living room (not fitted by me, I might add)
which turned out to be plain glass. Fortunately she went through backwards,
so just needed some stitches in her bum. If she'd fallen through forwards
with her arms outstretched I shudder to think what might have happened.

I replaced all of the secondary glazing.



Ow.

Can anyone confirm if Safety Tempered glass = "toughened"?

That means my side doors are OK

Just the front door to worry about.

On 03/07/2014 09:28, Bob H wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

Annealed glass 8mm thick is considered to be safety glass, meeting the
building regulations, provided no dimension exceeds 1.1m, which will
apply to most two panel doors.

http://www.leadbitterglass.com/safet...egulations.htm

Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

Toughened glass is more resistant to impact than laminated, although
laminated won't shatter into thousands of pieces when it does break. It
also needs to be mounted properly to get the full benefit of the lamination.

--
Colin Bignell

On 03/07/14 09:28, Bob H wrote:



Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

Reasonable idea. However I am tempted by Pilkington Spacia (the vacuum
DG stuff). Because it would be a drop in replacement (6mm total
thickness, plane a bit of the glazing bars) and would upgrade an old
door thermally.

I assume it is available with toughened glass but not laminated - going
up to Tunbridge Wells Glassworks to see about my ali window gaskets so I
will ask them.

Huge wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:

You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm.

It isn't fussing. My mother fell through some secondary double glazing
on the French windows in our living room

My parents' house originally had patterned, non-safety glass in the
double doors between the lounge and dining room - while being chased, my
brother slammed one of them onto my outstretched arm - luckily straight
through without a scratch, they were replaced by plywood soon after ...

On 03/07/14 09:43, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote:


Annealed glass 8mm thick is considered to be safety glass, meeting the
building regulations, provided no dimension exceeds 1.1m, which will
apply to most two panel doors.

http://www.leadbitterglass.com/safet...egulations.htm

Thanks Colin - I did not know that...

I am not certain how thick mine are. Seem to be rather less than 8mm
though. It's true the panels are 1.1m wide/tall.


Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

Toughened glass is more resistant to impact than laminated, although
laminated won't shatter into thousands of pieces when it does break. It
also needs to be mounted properly to get the full benefit of the
lamination.


True - but I'm happy with toughened - also the vacuum DG stuff will prob
be available toughened but not laminated.

If I need to replace, I might as well get 2 wins for the effort

On 03/07/2014 09:42, Tim Watts wrote:
On 03/07/14 09:37, Huge wrote:
On 2014-07-03, Tim Watts wrote:

You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

It isn't fussing. My mother fell through some secondary double glazing
on the French windows in our living room (not fitted by me, I might add)
which turned out to be plain glass. Fortunately she went through
backwards,
so just needed some stitches in her bum. If she'd fallen through
forwards
with her arms outstretched I shudder to think what might have happened.

I replaced all of the secondary glazing.



Ow.

Can anyone confirm if Safety Tempered glass = "toughened"?

That means my side doors are OK

Just the front door to worry about.

Are there any BS numbers / kite marks on the glass?

On 03/07/2014 09:42, Tim Watts wrote:
On 03/07/14 09:37, Huge wrote:
On 2014-07-03, Tim Watts wrote:

You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

It isn't fussing. My mother fell through some secondary double glazing
on the French windows in our living room (not fitted by me, I might add)
which turned out to be plain glass. Fortunately she went through
backwards,
so just needed some stitches in her bum. If she'd fallen through
forwards
with her arms outstretched I shudder to think what might have happened.

I replaced all of the secondary glazing.



Ow.

Can anyone confirm if Safety Tempered glass = "toughened"?

It was my understanding that this is correct - you heat and then cool
the glass so as to create internal stresses in the glass. The stress
makes the skin tougher, and when broken, the release of the stresses
gives you that typical cubic shattering.

(you can often see the stresses in the glass when looking at it with a
polarising filter)


That means my side doors are OK

Just the front door to worry about.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 03/07/2014 09:43, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:28, Bob H wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

Annealed glass 8mm thick is considered to be safety glass, meeting the
building regulations, provided no dimension exceeds 1.1m, which will
apply to most two panel doors.

http://www.leadbitterglass.com/safet...egulations.htm

Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

Toughened glass is more resistant to impact than laminated, although
laminated won't shatter into thousands of pieces when it does break. It
also needs to be mounted properly to get the full benefit of the
lamination.


I suppose both types have their pros and cons.
When I worked for a well known Double Glazing Company, I was shown how
easy it was to break a toughened glass pane. That is why we have
laminated panes on the outside, and toughened panes on the inside of our
doors etc.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
On 03/07/14 09:37, Huge wrote:
On 2014-07-03, Tim Watts wrote:

You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

It isn't fussing. My mother fell through some secondary double glazing
on the French windows in our living room (not fitted by me, I might add)
which turned out to be plain glass. Fortunately she went through
backwards,
so just needed some stitches in her bum. If she'd fallen through
forwards
with her arms outstretched I shudder to think what might have happened.

I replaced all of the secondary glazing.



Ow.

Can anyone confirm if Safety Tempered glass = "toughened"?

I know mine is because I made sure it was when I bought
it 40 years ago and have lost a few of them, maybe 4 or
so out of a total of 26 panels, all patio doors.

That means my side doors are OK

Just the front door to worry about.

"Bob H" wrote in message
...
On 03/07/2014 09:43, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:28, Bob H wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs
compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain
glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to
be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

Annealed glass 8mm thick is considered to be safety glass, meeting the
building regulations, provided no dimension exceeds 1.1m, which will
apply to most two panel doors.

http://www.leadbitterglass.com/safet...egulations.htm

Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

Toughened glass is more resistant to impact than laminated, although
laminated won't shatter into thousands of pieces when it does break. It
also needs to be mounted properly to get the full benefit of the
lamination.


I suppose both types have their pros and cons.

Yep, that's why they are both still around.

When I worked for a well known Double Glazing Company, I was shown how
easy it was to break a toughened glass pane. That is why we have laminated
panes on the outside, and toughened panes on the inside of our doors etc.

On 03/07/14 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

I would go to a glazier and explain what you have and ask for something
compliant with latest regs. No, I don't think you are fussing AT ALL.

Building regs are - apart from eco and disability tampering - very very
sane attempts to get good safety and building practice instilled. It
only takes on mistake and kids are scarred for life.

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On 03/07/2014 11:03, Bob H wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:43, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:28, Bob H wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs
compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain
glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin
to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

Annealed glass 8mm thick is considered to be safety glass, meeting the
building regulations, provided no dimension exceeds 1.1m, which will
apply to most two panel doors.

http://www.leadbitterglass.com/safet...egulations.htm

Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

Toughened glass is more resistant to impact than laminated, although
laminated won't shatter into thousands of pieces when it does break. It
also needs to be mounted properly to get the full benefit of the
lamination.


I suppose both types have their pros and cons.
When I worked for a well known Double Glazing Company, I was shown how
easy it was to break a toughened glass pane.

If you know how. Once I watched a Policeman try to break the side window
of a car (at the request of the owner, whose keys were clearly visible,
locked inside). After he had taken a few abortive but enthusiastic
swings at it with his truncheon, I suggested he hit it with the end of
the truncheon near one corner, where there was little give in the glass.
It broke immediately. I didn't want to demonstrate how to get in with a
bit of plastic strapping with him standing there :-)

That is why we have
laminated panes on the outside, and toughened panes on the inside of our
doors etc.

Properly mounted, laminated is good for burglar resistance. It is made
from annealed glass, although the plastic layer does give it about
double the impact resistance of the same thickness of plain annealed
glass and makes it difficult to break right through. Toughened, OTOH,
has up to five times the impact resistance of the same thickness of
annealed glass, but shatters when it does go.

--
Colin Bignell

On 03/07/14 12:58, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I would go to a glazier and explain what you have and ask for something
compliant with latest regs. No, I don't think you are fussing AT ALL.

Building regs are - apart from eco and disability tampering - very very
sane attempts to get good safety and building practice instilled. It
only takes on mistake and kids are scarred for life.


I totally agree - I try to move towards BR compliant even if I don't
*have* to, if there's a good safety case (like this).

However, the biggest problem around here seems to be finding a glazier
at all.

All I've found are uPVC jockeys with very little expertise in anything else.

On 03/07/14 10:46, Fredxxx wrote:

Can anyone confirm if Safety Tempered glass = "toughened"?

That means my side doors are OK

Just the front door to worry about.

Are there any BS numbers / kite marks on the glass?

Not that I can see - it is patterned glass so hard to see, but nothing
like I found on the side door DG units.

On 03/07/14 10:52, John Rumm wrote:

It was my understanding that this is correct - you heat and then cool
the glass so as to create internal stresses in the glass. The stress
makes the skin tougher, and when broken, the release of the stresses
gives you that typical cubic shattering.

Thanks John - that's good. Those door pass then

(you can often see the stresses in the glass when looking at it with a
polarising filter)

I forgot that (brain flushed out right now). I will get the kids to put
on the cinema 3D specs and see if they can see anything funky

On 03/07/14 11:03, Bob H wrote:

I suppose both types have their pros and cons.
When I worked for a well known Double Glazing Company, I was shown how
easy it was to break a toughened glass pane. That is why we have
laminated panes on the outside, and toughened panes on the inside of our
doors etc.

In some ways, I prefer "easy to break" as it means better/quicker entry
by firemen or exit by us if the door jams or someone's locked the
mortice (we try not to do that when in).

Automatic centre punches are supposed to be rather effective!



Burglars don't tend to break windows (unless very small and single
glazed) as it makes too much noise.

If the zombie hordes really want in, not a lot will stop them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNIrSxRurco

On 03/07/14 13:49, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote:

I didn't want to demonstrate how to get in with a
bit of plastic strapping with him standing there :-)




That is why we have
laminated panes on the outside, and toughened panes on the inside of our
doors etc.

Properly mounted, laminated is good for burglar resistance. It is made
from annealed glass, although the plastic layer does give it about
double the impact resistance of the same thickness of plain annealed
glass and makes it difficult to break right through. Toughened, OTOH,
has up to five times the impact resistance of the same thickness of
annealed glass, but shatters when it does go.


The burglars around here usually grab a garden spade and just lever the
whole opening light out!

Knowing what I know now about the criminally inclined. I would never again
go for a bottom pane of glass in a door even if its obscured. If you go away
the build up of junk mail on the mat inside gives the game away to any
druggy with half a brain that you are not at home.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Nightjar "cpb"@" "insert my surname here wrote in message
...
On 03/07/2014 09:28, Bob H wrote:
On 03/07/2014 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

Annealed glass 8mm thick is considered to be safety glass, meeting the
building regulations, provided no dimension exceeds 1.1m, which will apply
to most two panel doors.

http://www.leadbitterglass.com/safet...egulations.htm

Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

Toughened glass is more resistant to impact than laminated, although
laminated won't shatter into thousands of pieces when it does break. It
also needs to be mounted properly to get the full benefit of the
lamination.

--
Colin Bignell

On 03/07/14 15:35, Brian Gaff wrote:
Knowing what I know now about the criminally inclined. I would never again
go for a bottom pane of glass in a door even if its obscured. If you go away
the build up of junk mail on the mat inside gives the game away to any
druggy with half a brain that you are not at home.
Brian


That is certainly true.

What I might do is to mount some curtains over the panes on net curtain
wire. Our bedrooms come straight onto this hall anyway so the privacy
would be good (as well as the obscured glass).

In summer I would leave the bottom curtain "drawn" over the glass which
will cut down on the sun's heat coming in a bit and would obscure the
letters a bit.

On Thursday, July 3, 2014 12:58:18 PM UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 03/07/14 09:03, Tim Watts wrote:
While I'm looking at all the glass, does the kitemark and wordss in the
bottom right of the glass he

https://www.flickr.com/photos/timjwa...19745/sizes/o/

"Safety Tempered"

mean what I understand by "Toughened Glass" - ie Building Regs compliant
for 800mm off the floor and the stuff that breaks into cubes?


Old doors - just want to address any issues as I have kids...


The front door (even older) has a lower and an upper pane of plain glass
- damn sure that's not toughened. But with that I could mitigate by
fitting a pretty (relatively) decorative wire mesh over the inside.

Or reglaze it - in which case it would be a perfect candidate for a
panel of that new Pilkington vacuum double glazing as it will be the
only single glazing left in the house...


You might think I'm fussing - but we had a nasty case of another kid in
the village feel through some annealed glass (greenhouse type thin to be
fair) but got a VERY bad cut up arm. Did not occur to me to check but
now I have, it would be sensible to remedy or mitigate...

I would go to a glazier and explain what you have and ask for something
compliant with latest regs. No, I don't think you are fussing AT ALL.
Building regs are - apart from eco and disability tampering - very very
sane attempts to get good safety and building practice instilled. It

Attempts that sometimes succeed, and sometimes dont. Too often dont for my liking. There are plenty of 100+ year old houses, before the days of BR, which are fine in not all respects, but nearly all.


only takes on mistake and kids are scarred for life.

On the other hand it only takes a slew of senseless regs and they're working their arses off for life to pay for so much unnecessary expense & work. Freedom & opportunities lost. I dont give a monkey's if my ceiling deflects more than 3mm across its width, or if a partition wall frame was built from scrap. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. There's good in BR but way too much waste too.

If BR were wiped out tomorrow I'd build a house in papercrete. It would have more insulation than any normal house, cost less, and I'd willingly bet on it lasting - its my cost if it needs repair later.

In fact its BR that stops so much good housing being built, and so much progress being made. Of course it has its upside, but if it were drafted with more wisdom it wouldnt be such a drain on the nation.


NT

/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Jim K

JimK wrote:
/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Jim K


Toughened glass has to be pre measured and treated, laminated can be cut
to size

Also watch this toughened glass demo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaYeHc2zOMs

/F Murtz
JimK wrote:
/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Jim K


Toughened glass has to be pre measured and treated, laminated can be cut
to size

Also watch this toughened glass demo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaYeHc2zOMs /q


Er?? Was that supposed to be a reply to mine?

Jim K

JimK wrote:
/F Murtz
JimK wrote:
/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Jim K


Toughened glass has to be pre measured and treated, laminated can be cut
to size

Also watch this toughened glass demo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaYeHc2zOMs /q


Er?? Was that supposed to be a reply to mine?

Jim K

No not really I just bunged it on the end of this discussion about
toughened glass as that is what the discussion was originally
partly,without taking much notice

On Thursday, July 3, 2014 6:54:18 PM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Building regs.


NT

On 04/07/2014 23:34, wrote:
On Thursday, July 3, 2014 6:54:18 PM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Building regs.


NT


Or anyone that has found half an arm in the debris they are cleaning up
after some drunk puts his arm through a plate glass shop front.

As happened to one of the service guys during my spell installing alarms
for Chubb (~1972).
They found the drunk standing in the queue at a fish shop half a mile away.

/
/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Building regs.


NT/q

Really? ISTR that unless you are a short-arse your 'above head height' is not classed as a 'critical location' in the Building Regs?

(I'm sure you won't need a link).

Jim K

On Monday, July 7, 2014 10:15:08 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Building regs.

Really? ISTR that unless you are a short-arse your 'above head height' is not classed as a 'critical location' in the Building Regs?
(I'm sure you won't need a link).
Jim K

thus it requires 4mm, unless I'm mistaken.


NT

On Monday, July 7, 2014 10:15:08 AM UTC+1, JimK wrote:

/. I dont mind if above head height glazing is 3mm either. /q

Who does and why?

Building regs.

Really? ISTR that unless you are a short-arse your 'above head height' is not classed as a 'critical location' in the Building Regs?
(I'm sure you won't need a link).
Jim K

thus it requires 4mm, unless I'm mistaken.


NT /q

?? Suspect you are.

Jim K

On Thursday, July 3, 2014 9:28:06 AM UTC+1, Bob H wrote:


Get laminated glass, as its safer and stronger, as in less likely to get
smashed.

I don't think laminated glass satisfies the building regs does it? (N para 1.3); it doesn't turn into lots of tiny bits if it breaks.

Robert