Hi,

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

I bought a ratchet crimp and some crimps but neither came with
instructions so I was not quite sure how to use them.

I didn't know whether you had to crimp each end of the butt crimp
(which the wiki tells me I should do) or whether I needed just one
crimp in the middle (wrong).

When I did some practice crimps, the plastic got "chewed up" and I
wasn't sure whether that was supposed to happen, but I see from the
photos on the wiki that that is right.

So thanks very much, that page has really helped a complete crimp
beginner.

By the way, are all crimps equal or are some better than others? I
bought a selection box from CPC but find the central metal insert can
slide when positioning the cable. Do all of them do this or is it just
that mine were cheap and nasty?

I have encountered non-insulated crimps in repairs in the past. Could
the page be updated in the future to give an introduction to these?

TIA,
Fred

In article ,
Fred wrote:
Hi,

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

I bought a ratchet crimp and some crimps but neither came with
instructions so I was not quite sure how to use them.

I didn't know whether you had to crimp each end of the butt crimp
(which the wiki tells me I should do) or whether I needed just one
crimp in the middle (wrong).

That's why the article is there. ;-)

When I did some practice crimps, the plastic got "chewed up" and I
wasn't sure whether that was supposed to happen, but I see from the
photos on the wiki that that is right.

Chewed up? It should just take on the profile of the crimp tool without
perforating. It's insulated for a purpose.

So thanks very much, that page has really helped a complete crimp
beginner.

By the way, are all crimps equal or are some better than others? I
bought a selection box from CPC but find the central metal insert can
slide when positioning the cable. Do all of them do this or is it just
that mine were cheap and nasty?

Cheap and nasty. The central stop is pressed etc from the metal part of
the crimp. Or should be. Many of these crimps are of as poor quality as
the crimping pliers supplied with cheap sets, so I only now buy mine from
a decent electrical wholesaler.

I have encountered non-insulated crimps in repairs in the past. Could
the page be updated in the future to give an introduction to these?

The principle is the same. Use good quality terminals and the correct good
quality tool. The problems with crimps is there are so many - and each one
*must* have the correct, often expensive, tool.

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some don't have film *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 12:12:04 +0000, Fred wrote:

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

'tis good, glad to know what I had worked out is what should be done.
B-)

There is a bit of possible confusion in the section refering to
puting heat shrink on. To me the word "wire" means a single core from
a bundle all contained within a single "cable".

I'd edit the page but it's locked, no doubt due to spammers. I
thought I had a login but the user list doesn't show me. Has the user
list been purged?

--
Cheers
Dave.

Fred wrote:

Hi,

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

I bought a ratchet crimp and some crimps but neither came with
instructions so I was not quite sure how to use them.

I didn't know whether you had to crimp each end of the butt crimp
(which the wiki tells me I should do) or whether I needed just one
crimp in the middle (wrong).

When I did some practice crimps, the plastic got "chewed up" and I
wasn't sure whether that was supposed to happen, but I see from the
photos on the wiki that that is right.

So thanks very much, that page has really helped a complete crimp
beginner.

By the way, are all crimps equal or are some better than others? I
bought a selection box from CPC but find the central metal insert can
slide when positioning the cable. Do all of them do this or is it just
that mine were cheap and nasty?

I have encountered non-insulated crimps in repairs in the past. Could
the page be updated in the future to give an introduction to these?

TIA,
Fred

Hi Fred,

Very nicely done - I cannot see any ommisions or inaccuracies (caveat - I
read it quickly). I think it covers all the basics, including NOT using
crappy Halfords car grade crimp tools.

re uninsulated - I have used these in 10mm2 for earth bonding wires because
regular plastic crimps do not go that big. But unless you need to join big
wires, most DIY use would center around the plastic coated jobbies.

Is it worth mentioning ferrules (bootlace)? Different crimp tool, same
principle - I prefer to crimp off find stranded wires encountered in
lighting fittings if they need to go into screw terminal blocks. Also useful
for shortening fly leads on RCBOs.

Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

On 30/10/2011 12:59, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 12:12:04 +0000, Fred wrote:

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

'tis good, glad to know what I had worked out is what should be done.
B-)

There is a bit of possible confusion in the section refering to
puting heat shrink on. To me the word "wire" means a single core from
a bundle all contained within a single "cable".

I'd edit the page but it's locked, no doubt due to spammers. I
thought I had a login but the user list doesn't show me. Has the user
list been purged?

The user list was purged of spammy users - but they were all in a
particular form not like any of the real user names. So hopefully no
real accounts were knobbled.

Drop me an email with your preferred user name and I will make a new
account for you and send you the password.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 30/10/2011 13:03, Tim Watts wrote:
Fred wrote:

Hi,

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

I bought a ratchet crimp and some crimps but neither came with
instructions so I was not quite sure how to use them.

I didn't know whether you had to crimp each end of the butt crimp
(which the wiki tells me I should do) or whether I needed just one
crimp in the middle (wrong).

When I did some practice crimps, the plastic got "chewed up" and I
wasn't sure whether that was supposed to happen, but I see from the
photos on the wiki that that is right.

So thanks very much, that page has really helped a complete crimp
beginner.

By the way, are all crimps equal or are some better than others? I
bought a selection box from CPC but find the central metal insert can
slide when positioning the cable. Do all of them do this or is it just
that mine were cheap and nasty?

I have encountered non-insulated crimps in repairs in the past. Could
the page be updated in the future to give an introduction to these?

TIA,
Fred

Hi Fred,

Very nicely done - I cannot see any ommisions or inaccuracies (caveat - I
read it quickly). I think it covers all the basics, including NOT using
crappy Halfords car grade crimp tools.

Rough night Tim? ;-)

I think Fred was commenting on it, not writing it. That pages has been
there since 2007 and has has over 25,000 page view since.

re uninsulated - I have used these in 10mm2 for earth bonding wires because
regular plastic crimps do not go that big. But unless you need to join big
wires, most DIY use would center around the plastic coated jobbies.

Is it worth mentioning ferrules (bootlace)? Different crimp tool, same
principle - I prefer to crimp off find stranded wires encountered in
lighting fittings if they need to go into screw terminal blocks. Also useful
for shortening fly leads on RCBOs.

Yes, good point actually. Might be worth adding a section on those.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 30/10/2011 12:12, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

I bought a ratchet crimp and some crimps but neither came with
instructions so I was not quite sure how to use them.

I didn't know whether you had to crimp each end of the butt crimp
(which the wiki tells me I should do) or whether I needed just one
crimp in the middle (wrong).

When I did some practice crimps, the plastic got "chewed up" and I
wasn't sure whether that was supposed to happen, but I see from the
photos on the wiki that that is right.

The plastic should get "formed" to the profile of the jaws, although not
chewed as such...

So thanks very much, that page has really helped a complete crimp
beginner.

Good.

By the way, are all crimps equal or are some better than others? I
bought a selection box from CPC but find the central metal insert can
slide when positioning the cable. Do all of them do this or is it just
that mine were cheap and nasty?

They can vary. Some have internal serrations for a better grip. The
central stop is not full radius, so if using a bigger crimp than
required for the wire, then you can push it right through. However
something like 2.5mm^2 T&E in a blue one will probably not push through.
Experience also teach you how much insulation to trim, and that limits
how far you can go.

I have encountered non-insulated crimps in repairs in the past. Could
the page be updated in the future to give an introduction to these?

They get a mention in the required tools and materials section. However
I did not have an uninsulated crimp tool to hand to photograph and so
did not cover those in detail. For most cable joining activities, using
uninsulated terminals means more time spent heatshrinking.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 12:39:37 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Chewed up? It should just take on the profile of the crimp tool without
perforating. It's insulated for a purpose.

Sorry, perhaps I used the wrong word. Perhaps I should have said
"squashed". Mine look like those in the photos, so I am sure it is my
language that is wrong, not my technique!

Regarding the uninsulated crimps, the ones I have seen are not like
those linked from the wiki but like these:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/lucar-female-connector-1070

with "open ends" which the tool wraps around onto the wire.

Thanks,
Fred

PS just to clarify: I was only commenting on what a useful resource
the page was and I didn't contribute to it in any way.

In article ,
Fred wrote:
On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 12:39:37 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Chewed up? It should just take on the profile of the crimp tool without
perforating. It's insulated for a purpose.

Sorry, perhaps I used the wrong word. Perhaps I should have said
"squashed". Mine look like those in the photos, so I am sure it is my
language that is wrong, not my technique!

The photos are correct.

Regarding the uninsulated crimps, the ones I have seen are not like
those linked from the wiki but like these:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/lucar-female-connector-1070

with "open ends" which the tool wraps around onto the wire.

Generally forget Maplin for anything serious. For Lucar terminals and
tools I use these people:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php

They do crimp tools too.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninscrimps.php

The one I have - it is excellent - is also the most expensive one, at the
top of the page. It produces crimps to factory standard.

FWIW, I'd not use any pre-insulated Lucar terminal on flex - as you'd get
in a car. They quite simply don't crimp as well as the correct thing. Cut
off the insulation and examine the crimp if you don't believe me - it will
be found to be just squashed and untidy. The correct tool on an
uninsulated terminal has heart shaped jaws which cause the terminal to
wrap round the flex and grip it perfectly.

--
*If a parsley farmer is sued, can they garnish his wages?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

John Rumm wrote:

On 30/10/2011 13:03, Tim Watts wrote:
Fred wrote:

Hi,

I just wanted to thank whoever wrote the crimping faq:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Cable_crimping

I bought a ratchet crimp and some crimps but neither came with
instructions so I was not quite sure how to use them.

I didn't know whether you had to crimp each end of the butt crimp
(which the wiki tells me I should do) or whether I needed just one
crimp in the middle (wrong).

When I did some practice crimps, the plastic got "chewed up" and I
wasn't sure whether that was supposed to happen, but I see from the
photos on the wiki that that is right.

So thanks very much, that page has really helped a complete crimp
beginner.

By the way, are all crimps equal or are some better than others? I
bought a selection box from CPC but find the central metal insert can
slide when positioning the cable. Do all of them do this or is it just
that mine were cheap and nasty?

I have encountered non-insulated crimps in repairs in the past. Could
the page be updated in the future to give an introduction to these?

TIA,
Fred

Hi Fred,

Very nicely done - I cannot see any ommisions or inaccuracies (caveat - I
read it quickly). I think it covers all the basics, including NOT using
crappy Halfords car grade crimp tools.

Rough night Tim? ;-)

I think Fred was commenting on it, not writing it. That pages has been
there since 2007 and has has over 25,000 page view since.

Yes - I realised that after hitting send. Bed at 3am - painting the
kitchen...

re uninsulated - I have used these in 10mm2 for earth bonding wires
because regular plastic crimps do not go that big. But unless you need to
join big wires, most DIY use would center around the plastic coated
jobbies.

Is it worth mentioning ferrules (bootlace)? Different crimp tool, same
principle - I prefer to crimp off find stranded wires encountered in
lighting fittings if they need to go into screw terminal blocks. Also
useful for shortening fly leads on RCBOs.

Yes, good point actually. Might be worth adding a section on those.




--
Tim Watts

On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 14:58:33 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Generally forget Maplin for anything serious. For Lucar terminals and
tools I use these people:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php

They do crimp tools too.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninscrimps.php

The one I have - it is excellent - is also the most expensive one, at the
top of the page. It produces crimps to factory standard.

Thanks. I haven't bought crimps from Maplin (my cheap ones were the
duratool brand from cpc), it was just that Maplin was the first link I
could find showing that type of crimp with the ends that fold
heart-shaped onto the wire. Is that what "Lucar" is?

I was looking to link to this web site, which I had seen before but I
just could not remember its name. I think you are right: I had seen
these types of crimp in automotive applications rather than domestic
mains use before.

So you have their PR3 model. It doesn't look like it is a ratchet
type, is it?

TIA
Fred

In article ,
Fred wrote:
On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 14:58:33 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Generally forget Maplin for anything serious. For Lucar terminals and
tools I use these people:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php

They do crimp tools too.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninscrimps.php

The one I have - it is excellent - is also the most expensive one, at the
top of the page. It produces crimps to factory standard.

Thanks. I haven't bought crimps from Maplin (my cheap ones were the
duratool brand from cpc), it was just that Maplin was the first link I
could find showing that type of crimp with the ends that fold
heart-shaped onto the wire. Is that what "Lucar" is?

Lucar is (or was) the name for the spade connectors found on older cars.
And some electrical stuff. Think it may have something to do with Lucas.

They do use a heart shaped crimp - but so do most other terminals for
flex. Insulated connectors are quite rare in just sort of squashing them
up.

I was looking to link to this web site, which I had seen before but I
just could not remember its name. I think you are right: I had seen
these types of crimp in automotive applications rather than domestic
mains use before.

I have seen them used for mains - but obviously inside a box so they can't
be touched when the device is in use.

So you have their PR3 model. It doesn't look like it is a ratchet
type, is it?

It's a cantilever design. That produces enough force easily to crimp the
connector fully without the pain of a ratchet. I suppose it isn't quite so
foolproof, though. I do quite a bit of car wiring and find it as near
perfect as any tool I have. But expensive if you won't use it much. Some
of their cheaper ones may be OK - I've never had a problem with anything
from them.

--
*Honk if you love peace and quiet*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 30 Oct 2011 23:23:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

They do use a heart shaped crimp - but so do most other terminals for
flex. Insulated connectors are quite rare in just sort of squashing them
up.

Thanks for the clarification. It was just those on the TLC site, as
linked from the wiki, appeared to be the squash them up type rather
than the fold a heart type, so I wasn't sure whether there were two
different types with different names.

So you have their PR3 model. It doesn't look like it is a ratchet
type, is it?

It's a cantilever design. That produces enough force easily to crimp the
connector fully without the pain of a ratchet. I suppose it isn't quite so
foolproof, though. I do quite a bit of car wiring and find it as near
perfect as any tool I have. But expensive if you won't use it much. Some
of their cheaper ones may be OK - I've never had a problem with anything
from them.

I would not use them enough to justify the cost of a PR3. I was
thinking of their PR4 model. It is a ratchet, which I understand
provides the right amount of force and is best for beginners. I was
surprised they sell the pliers that were explicitly criticised in the
faq. The faq says only to use them to shear bolts but I've always used
a hacksaw for that purpose.

Do you crimp coax connectors too? At the moment, I use the screw on F
connectors. Is there any advantage using the crimp type?

TIA,
Fred