I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar
(with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to
length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top
of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the
existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights.

What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some
experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life
as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too
easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind
when they get a little way in.

Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g]
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar
(with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to
length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top
of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the
existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the
weights.

What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some
experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life
as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too
easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind
when they get a little way in.

Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g]

get a new cheap cross cut saw at a guess.

You need a wide kerf or it tends to clog.

John Rumm wrote:
On 06/05/2011 16:45, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar
(with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to
length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top
of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the
existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the
weights.

If replacing the weights I would do the cord at the same time unless it
was replaced recently. Sash cord is fairly cheap.


What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some
experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life
as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too
easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind
when they get a little way in.

Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g]

Fine toothed saw IME - although not as fine as your normal hacksaw
blade. For drilling, HSS bit with lubrication possibly (not tried
drilling through much thickness of lead to be honest)


I did once years ago..low drill speed and lots of lube IIRC, or it melts
and clogs.

Roger Mills wrote in news:92ijc4Foo8U1
@mid.individual.net:


Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g]

TBH I'd cast my own from scrap lead.

Lead will melt on a primus/camping gas stove and you could make your own
moulds from just about anything when it's for single use, even a well
supported wooden box with a peg in it (for the hole) would do for lead.
It's not as though you need a fine finish as they'll be hidden away.

--

All the best,

Chris

On May 6, 4:45*pm, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar
(with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to
length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top
of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the
existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights.

What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some
experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life
as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too
easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind
when they get a little way in.

Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g]

Might be easier to tie a knot that will fit down the existing hole,
and wack a nail in the side to stop it coming out. (If necessary split
the cord before knotting.)


NT

In article , Roger Mills
writes

I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar
(with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to
length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top
of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the
existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights.

Will that still pull through the centreline of the weight?

An alternative I've used is to drill a smaller horizontal hole and fix a
loop of fixing strap over the top for the sash cord to be tied to. Self
tappers would do for fixing it in the lead.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

John Rumm wrote:
On 06/05/2011 16:45, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is
available. I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5"
square bar
(with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to
length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the
top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can
use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom
of the weights.

If replacing the weights I would do the cord at the same time unless
it was replaced recently. Sash cord is fairly cheap.

The OP should also weigh the sashes complete with the glass, and the cut the
lead weights so that their combined weight is equal to the sash - otherwise
they will not stay in a partially open position for ventilation.

Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping the OP -
who is probably posting through the google groups.

Cash

On May 6, 4:45*pm, Roger Mills wrote:

What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead?

Cast it into a mould made from beercans and origami. Use a Chinese
supermarket ladle and a gas blowtorch.

On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

With full dust collection faciliites. Highly toxic material.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

On 07/05/2011 10:07, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Yes it is.

"It is weakly radioactive and remains so because of its long physical
half-life (4.468 billion years..." according to the World Health
Organisation, and also Wikipedia and the BBC


http://www.who.int/mediacentre/factsheets/fs257/en/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depleted_uranium

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/1101447.stm

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)

On 06/05/2011 16:47, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar
(with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to
length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top
of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use
the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of
the weights.

What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some
experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started
life as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it
too easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem
to bind when they get a little way in.

Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g]

get a new cheap cross cut saw at a guess.

You need a wide kerf or it tends to clog.


Do you mean a wood saw?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 06/05/2011 16:59, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


I did once years ago..low drill speed and lots of lube IIRC, or it melts
and clogs.


I found when I experimented on a lump of lead with an HS bit in a
cordless drill that swarf was thrown out in long ribbons, some of which
congealed round the mouth of the hole - a bit like candle wax.

I'm wondering whether to try using a bit in hand brace rather than an
electric drill, so as to drill *very* slowly. Is that likely to work?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 06/05/2011 22:08, Cash wrote:


The OP should also weigh the sashes complete with the glass, and the cut the
lead weights so that their combined weight is equal to the sash - otherwise
they will not stay in a partially open position for ventilation.


Yes I've done that. I weighed the sashes on bathroom scales, when I
removed them earlier. *And* I weighed the existing weights, and found
them to be about 40% light!

The perceived wisdom of the people supplying the new weights is to
slightly over-weight the top sashes and under-weight the bottom sashes.
Friction should still make then stay put, but with a slight bias towards
self closing.

Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping the OP -
who is probably posting through the google groups.



I most certainly am not!! My posts are all going out via news.individual.net


--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..
--
Tony Sayer

"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Probably.

In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Probably.



So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...
--
Tony Sayer

Roger Mills wrote in news:92l62cFbh3U1
@mid.individual.net:

On 06/05/2011 16:59, The Natural Philosopher wrote:


I did once years ago..low drill speed and lots of lube IIRC, or it melts
and clogs.


I found when I experimented on a lump of lead with an HS bit in a
cordless drill that swarf was thrown out in long ribbons, some of which
congealed round the mouth of the hole - a bit like candle wax.

I'm wondering whether to try using a bit in hand brace rather than an
electric drill, so as to drill *very* slowly. Is that likely to work?

It won't "not" work, what you might want to do is once you've stated and a
hole begins to form is fill it with talcum powder. I do a lot of work with
white metals (lead alloys for making models) - using talcum powder saves a
lot of files and whilst it'll still stick it will stick less

--

All the best,

Chris

"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because
the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm
not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Probably.



So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.

On 07/05/2011 16:16, Roger Mills wrote:

I'm wondering whether to try using a bit in hand brace rather than an
electric drill, so as to drill *very* slowly. Is that likely to work?

IME, yes. Use an ordinary twist drill - preferably a really sharp one.

--
Andy

On 5/8/2011 8:57 AM, dennis@home wrote:

So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.

Lead ;-)

Gib Bogle wrote in news:iq4h0p$p0h$2
@speranza.aioe.org:

On 5/8/2011 8:57 AM, dennis@home wrote:

So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.

Lead ;-)

Iraqi tank crews?

--

All the best,

Chris

"Chris Wilson" wrote in message
. ..
Gib Bogle wrote in news:iq4h0p$p0h$2
@speranza.aioe.org:

On 5/8/2011 8:57 AM, dennis@home wrote:

So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.

Lead ;-)

Iraqi tank crews?

I was thinking of paper bags.

On 07/05/11 10:07, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Citation? How about http://www.grip.org/bdg/pdf/g1861.pdf ?

blockquote
Depleted uranium typically has around 0.3% to 0.2% 235U by mass,
although the Nuclear Regulatory Commission in the US defines DU as
uranium in which the percentage of 235U is less than 0.711% (NRC, 2000)
/blockquote

Depleted uranium
Sources, Exposure and Health Effects
Department of Protection of the Human Environment
World Health Organization
Geneva
April 2001

On 07/05/11 19:37, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Not only, but also DC-10 (and none of them fell out of the sky or burst
into flames, did they [2]), TriStar and various helicopters [1]. And, no
doubt, endless military aircraft.

[1] http://www.wise-uranium.org/ruxcw.html
[2]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McDonne..._and_accidents

On 07/05/11 20:46, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony wrote in message
...
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Probably.



So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

According to the World Heath Organisation [1] they are normally plated
with Nickel or Cadmium (oh, so that's all right then!) or sheathed in
aluminium alloy. Which is OK for ordinary handling, but in the event of
a crash and fire it could still cause problems [2].

[1] http://www.grip.org/bdg/pdf/g1861.pdf
[2] http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/593649.stm

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

With full dust collection faciliites. Highly toxic material.



What about a long cylinder full of Mercury (see other posts about mercury
container!)

In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because
the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm
not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Probably.



So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.


No its not wrapped in anything special just some thin ally...
--
Tony Sayer

tony sayer wrote:
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus

"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus

"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because
the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.
Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm
not
sure how it should be cut though
Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.
Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)

Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..
Probably.



So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...
I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.


No its not wrapped in anything special just some thin ally...

its so weakly radioactive that it wont generate any measaurable activity
above background.

On 07/05/2011 23:43, Cash wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:


Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping
the OP - who is probably posting through the google groups.



I most certainly am not!! My posts are all going out via
news.individual.net

Roger,

You may be posting through news.individual (as I am in fact) but you are
using (I have 'doctored' this btw) in the From 'box' and
as I have my filters set to block all google or gmail senders to prevent
spam - then I cannot see posts from them (othen than through posts replying
to you).


Yes, I'm perfectly aware of what I'm doing, without needing to see the
headers. I set up the gmail address explicitly for this purpose.
News.individual.net prefer you to use a real return address, so I
created a throw-away one which I could dispose of if it became too
spam-laden. As it happens, Gmail has very good built-in spam filers, so
very little spam makes it to my inbox - and people *can* reply off list
if they really want to.

It's important to realise that using a gmail return address is *not*
synonymous with posting via Google Groups. Maybe you need to refine your
filters?

[Perhaps someone other than 'Cash' could reply to this so that Cash can
see it if he/she is still blocking gmail].
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Roger Mills wrote in
:

On 07/05/2011 23:43, Cash wrote:
Roger Mills wrote:


Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping
the OP - who is probably posting through the google groups.



I most certainly am not!! My posts are all going out via
news.individual.net

Roger,

You may be posting through news.individual (as I am in fact) but you
are using (I have 'doctored' this btw) in the
From 'box' and as I have my filters set to block all google or gmail
senders to prevent spam - then I cannot see posts from them (othen
than through posts replying to you).


Yes, I'm perfectly aware of what I'm doing, without needing to see the
headers. I set up the gmail address explicitly for this purpose.
News.individual.net prefer you to use a real return address, so I
created a throw-away one which I could dispose of if it became too
spam-laden. As it happens, Gmail has very good built-in spam filers,
so very little spam makes it to my inbox - and people *can* reply off
list if they really want to.

It's important to realise that using a gmail return address is *not*
synonymous with posting via Google Groups. Maybe you need to refine
your filters?

[Perhaps someone other than 'Cash' could reply to this so that Cash
can see it if he/she is still blocking gmail].

No :-)

--

All the best,

Chris

On Sun, 8 May 2011 10:34:48 +0100, DerbyBoy wrote:

What about a long cylinder full of Mercury (see other posts about
mercury container!)

B-)

Mercury is only 2g/cm^3 denser than Lead so the added agro is
probably not worth it. Hg 13.5g/cm^3, Pb 11.3g/cm^3.

Gold would be better 19.3g/cm^3 that's higher (just) than uranium.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 07/05/2011 19:37, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Spent uranium is used extensively in the aerospace industry, mainly as
ballast, I don't know why it was used on the tail of a jumbo though.

The ballast is used to ensure that the center of lift from the wings
coincides with center of gravity, otherwise you can end up with an
unstable aircraft.

All aircraft have to be accurately weighed as one of the last phases
before its first flight. The aircraft is de-fueled at its correct flight
attitude and this information is fed into the flight computers.

HTH

Dave

On 07/05/2011 21:57, dennis@home wrote:


"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows,
because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap.
I'm not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Probably.



So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.

No need to wrap it, I have used it since 1974 in the A/C industry and I
am still alive.

Dave

On 08/05/2011 11:46, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony wrote in message
...
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"tony wrote in message
...
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because
the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm
not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Probably.



So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were...

I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something
suitable.


No its not wrapped in anything special just some thin ally...

The stuff I used to handle was not wrapped in anything, unless it was
destined to fly, then it was painted in 'international orange' paint

Dave

Dave wrote:
On 07/05/2011 19:37, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home
scribeth thus


"The Natural wrote in message
...
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because
the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less
dense
iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available.

Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm
not
sure how it should be cut though

Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-)


DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive.

Shhh you don't want to tell everyone.
Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion
years.

Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I
wonder
how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-)


Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail
of a Jumbo jet?..

Spent uranium is used extensively in the aerospace industry, mainly as
ballast, I don't know why it was used on the tail of a jumbo though.

High weight per unit volume. Think its aero balancing..reduces
possibility of tail surface flutter.


The ballast is used to ensure that the center of lift from the wings
coincides with center of gravity, otherwise you can end up with an
unstable aircraft.

Firstly not always why its used,. secondly centre of lift is always
where C of G is of necessity. That is not the issue. The issue is that
it is so with the aircraft in steady flight, rather than e.g. pointing
90 degrees down :-)

Its very easy to move the centre of lift: that's what the elevators are for.

The critical reason to move the C of G is to do with the differential
movement of the centre of lift with the planes angle. If the center of
lift moves forward as the pklane noses up, its deeply unstable,.



All aircraft have to be accurately weighed as one of the last phases
before its first flight. The aircraft is de-fueled at its correct flight
attitude and this information is fed into the flight computers.

??

Sounds like someone who has worked around an arcraft factoy with no real
understaninding of aerodynamics to me..

On 08/05/2011 15:13, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 8 May 2011 10:34:48 +0100, DerbyBoy wrote:

What about a long cylinder full of Mercury (see other posts about
mercury container!)

B-)

Mercury is only 2g/cm^3 denser than Lead so the added agro is
probably not worth it. Hg 13.5g/cm^3, Pb 11.3g/cm^3.

Gold would be better 19.3g/cm^3 that's higher (just) than uranium.


Now there's a thought - turn all my gold ingots into sash weights.
No-one would think of looking *there* for them! g
--
Cheers,
Roger
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