Cutting and drilling lead
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the
existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights. What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind when they get a little way in. Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g] -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
Cutting and drilling lead
Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights. What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind when they get a little way in. Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g] get a new cheap cross cut saw at a guess. You need a wide kerf or it tends to clog. |
Cutting and drilling lead
John Rumm wrote:
On 06/05/2011 16:45, Roger Mills wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights. If replacing the weights I would do the cord at the same time unless it was replaced recently. Sash cord is fairly cheap. What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind when they get a little way in. Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g] Fine toothed saw IME - although not as fine as your normal hacksaw blade. For drilling, HSS bit with lubrication possibly (not tried drilling through much thickness of lead to be honest) I did once years ago..low drill speed and lots of lube IIRC, or it melts and clogs. |
Cutting and drilling lead
Roger Mills wrote in news:92ijc4Foo8U1
@mid.individual.net: Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g] TBH I'd cast my own from scrap lead. Lead will melt on a primus/camping gas stove and you could make your own moulds from just about anything when it's for single use, even a well supported wooden box with a peg in it (for the hole) would do for lead. It's not as though you need a fine finish as they'll be hidden away. -- All the best, Chris |
Cutting and drilling lead
On May 6, 4:45*pm, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights. What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind when they get a little way in. Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g] Might be easier to tie a knot that will fit down the existing hole, and wack a nail in the side to stop it coming out. (If necessary split the cord before knotting.) NT |
Cutting and drilling lead
In article , Roger Mills
writes I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights. Will that still pull through the centreline of the weight? An alternative I've used is to drill a smaller horizontal hole and fix a loop of fixing strap over the top for the sash cord to be tied to. Self tappers would do for fixing it in the lead. -- fred FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ******** |
Cutting and drilling lead
John Rumm wrote:
On 06/05/2011 16:45, Roger Mills wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights. If replacing the weights I would do the cord at the same time unless it was replaced recently. Sash cord is fairly cheap. The OP should also weigh the sashes complete with the glass, and the cut the lead weights so that their combined weight is equal to the sash - otherwise they will not stay in a partially open position for ventilation. Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping the OP - who is probably posting through the google groups. Cash |
Cutting and drilling lead
On May 6, 4:45*pm, Roger Mills wrote:
What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? Cast it into a mould made from beercans and origami. Use a Chinese supermarket ladle and a gas blowtorch. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger Mills wrote:
I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
Cutting and drilling lead
Matty F wrote:
On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger Mills wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) With full dust collection faciliites. Highly toxic material. |
Cutting and drilling lead
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/2011 10:07, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Yes it is. "It is weakly radioactive and remains so because of its long physical half-life (4.468 billion years..." according to the World Health Organisation, and also Wikipedia and the BBC http://www.who.int/mediacentre/factsheets/fs257/en/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depleted_uranium http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/1101447.stm |
Cutting and drilling lead
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 06/05/2011 16:47, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Roger Mills wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. I have some weights on order which are long pieces of 1.5" square bar (with a hole through the middle for the cord) which need to be cut to length. I would also like to drill a 1/2" horizontal hole near the top of each weight to accommodate a knot in the cord, so that I can use the existing cords which are not long enough to go to the bottom of the weights. What's the best way of cutting and drilling lead? I've done some experiments on a lead 'brick' which I happen to have (which started life as a counterbalance weight on a drawing board), and not found it too easy. A normal hacksaw seems to be too fine, and drill bits seem to bind when they get a little way in. Any ideas? [Would an angle grinder help? g] get a new cheap cross cut saw at a guess. You need a wide kerf or it tends to clog. Do you mean a wood saw? -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 06/05/2011 16:59, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I did once years ago..low drill speed and lots of lube IIRC, or it melts and clogs. I found when I experimented on a lump of lead with an HS bit in a cordless drill that swarf was thrown out in long ribbons, some of which congealed round the mouth of the hole - a bit like candle wax. I'm wondering whether to try using a bit in hand brace rather than an electric drill, so as to drill *very* slowly. Is that likely to work? -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 06/05/2011 22:08, Cash wrote:
The OP should also weigh the sashes complete with the glass, and the cut the lead weights so that their combined weight is equal to the sash - otherwise they will not stay in a partially open position for ventilation. Yes I've done that. I weighed the sashes on bathroom scales, when I removed them earlier. *And* I weighed the existing weights, and found them to be about 40% light! The perceived wisdom of the people supplying the new weights is to slightly over-weight the top sashes and under-weight the bottom sashes. Friction should still make then stay put, but with a slight bias towards self closing. Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping the OP - who is probably posting through the google groups. I most certainly am not!! My posts are all going out via news.individual.net -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
Cutting and drilling lead
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. -- Tony Sayer |
Cutting and drilling lead
"tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. |
Cutting and drilling lead
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus "tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... -- Tony Sayer |
Cutting and drilling lead
Roger Mills wrote in news:92l62cFbh3U1
@mid.individual.net: On 06/05/2011 16:59, The Natural Philosopher wrote: I did once years ago..low drill speed and lots of lube IIRC, or it melts and clogs. I found when I experimented on a lump of lead with an HS bit in a cordless drill that swarf was thrown out in long ribbons, some of which congealed round the mouth of the hole - a bit like candle wax. I'm wondering whether to try using a bit in hand brace rather than an electric drill, so as to drill *very* slowly. Is that likely to work? It won't "not" work, what you might want to do is once you've stated and a hole begins to form is fill it with talcum powder. I do a lot of work with white metals (lead alloys for making models) - using talcum powder saves a lot of files and whilst it'll still stick it will stick less -- All the best, Chris |
Cutting and drilling lead
"tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/2011 16:16, Roger Mills wrote:
I'm wondering whether to try using a bit in hand brace rather than an electric drill, so as to drill *very* slowly. Is that likely to work? IME, yes. Use an ordinary twist drill - preferably a really sharp one. -- Andy |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 5/8/2011 8:57 AM, dennis@home wrote:
So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. Lead ;-) |
Cutting and drilling lead
Gib Bogle wrote in news:iq4h0p$p0h$2
@speranza.aioe.org: On 5/8/2011 8:57 AM, dennis@home wrote: So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. Lead ;-) Iraqi tank crews? -- All the best, Chris |
Cutting and drilling lead
"Chris Wilson" wrote in message . .. Gib Bogle wrote in news:iq4h0p$p0h$2 @speranza.aioe.org: On 5/8/2011 8:57 AM, dennis@home wrote: So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. Lead ;-) Iraqi tank crews? I was thinking of paper bags. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/11 10:07, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Citation? How about http://www.grip.org/bdg/pdf/g1861.pdf ? blockquote Depleted uranium typically has around 0.3% to 0.2% 235U by mass, although the Nuclear Regulatory Commission in the US defines DU as uranium in which the percentage of 235U is less than 0.711% (NRC, 2000) /blockquote Depleted uranium Sources, Exposure and Health Effects Department of Protection of the Human Environment World Health Organization Geneva April 2001 |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/11 19:37, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Not only, but also DC-10 (and none of them fell out of the sky or burst into flames, did they [2]), TriStar and various helicopters [1]. And, no doubt, endless military aircraft. [1] http://www.wise-uranium.org/ruxcw.html [2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McDonne..._and_accidents |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/11 20:46, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony wrote in message ... In , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... According to the World Heath Organisation [1] they are normally plated with Nickel or Cadmium (oh, so that's all right then!) or sheathed in aluminium alloy. Which is OK for ordinary handling, but in the event of a crash and fire it could still cause problems [2]. [1] http://www.grip.org/bdg/pdf/g1861.pdf [2] http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/593649.stm |
Cutting and drilling lead
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger Mills wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) With full dust collection faciliites. Highly toxic material. What about a long cylinder full of Mercury (see other posts about mercury container!) |
Cutting and drilling lead
In article , dennis@home
scribeth thus "tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. No its not wrapped in anything special just some thin ally... -- Tony Sayer |
Cutting and drilling lead
tony sayer wrote:
In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. No its not wrapped in anything special just some thin ally... its so weakly radioactive that it wont generate any measaurable activity above background. |
Gmail as a return address - was Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/2011 23:43, Cash wrote:
Roger Mills wrote: Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping the OP - who is probably posting through the google groups. I most certainly am not!! My posts are all going out via news.individual.net Roger, You may be posting through news.individual (as I am in fact) but you are using (I have 'doctored' this btw) in the From 'box' and as I have my filters set to block all google or gmail senders to prevent spam - then I cannot see posts from them (othen than through posts replying to you). Yes, I'm perfectly aware of what I'm doing, without needing to see the headers. I set up the gmail address explicitly for this purpose. News.individual.net prefer you to use a real return address, so I created a throw-away one which I could dispose of if it became too spam-laden. As it happens, Gmail has very good built-in spam filers, so very little spam makes it to my inbox - and people *can* reply off list if they really want to. It's important to realise that using a gmail return address is *not* synonymous with posting via Google Groups. Maybe you need to refine your filters? [Perhaps someone other than 'Cash' could reply to this so that Cash can see it if he/she is still blocking gmail]. -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
Gmail as a return address - was Cutting and drilling lead
Roger Mills wrote in
: On 07/05/2011 23:43, Cash wrote: Roger Mills wrote: Sorry to use your post to reply John, but my filters are stopping the OP - who is probably posting through the google groups. I most certainly am not!! My posts are all going out via news.individual.net Roger, You may be posting through news.individual (as I am in fact) but you are using (I have 'doctored' this btw) in the From 'box' and as I have my filters set to block all google or gmail senders to prevent spam - then I cannot see posts from them (othen than through posts replying to you). Yes, I'm perfectly aware of what I'm doing, without needing to see the headers. I set up the gmail address explicitly for this purpose. News.individual.net prefer you to use a real return address, so I created a throw-away one which I could dispose of if it became too spam-laden. As it happens, Gmail has very good built-in spam filers, so very little spam makes it to my inbox - and people *can* reply off list if they really want to. It's important to realise that using a gmail return address is *not* synonymous with posting via Google Groups. Maybe you need to refine your filters? [Perhaps someone other than 'Cash' could reply to this so that Cash can see it if he/she is still blocking gmail]. No :-) -- All the best, Chris |
Cutting and drilling lead
On Sun, 8 May 2011 10:34:48 +0100, DerbyBoy wrote:
What about a long cylinder full of Mercury (see other posts about mercury container!) B-) Mercury is only 2g/cm^3 denser than Lead so the added agro is probably not worth it. Hg 13.5g/cm^3, Pb 11.3g/cm^3. Gold would be better 19.3g/cm^3 that's higher (just) than uranium. -- Cheers Dave. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/2011 19:37, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Spent uranium is used extensively in the aerospace industry, mainly as ballast, I don't know why it was used on the tail of a jumbo though. The ballast is used to ensure that the center of lift from the wings coincides with center of gravity, otherwise you can end up with an unstable aircraft. All aircraft have to be accurately weighed as one of the last phases before its first flight. The aircraft is de-fueled at its correct flight attitude and this information is fed into the flight computers. HTH Dave |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 07/05/2011 21:57, dennis@home wrote:
"tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony sayer" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. No need to wrap it, I have used it since 1974 in the A/C industry and I am still alive. Dave |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 08/05/2011 11:46, tony sayer wrote:
In , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony wrote in message ... In , dennis@home scribeth thus "tony wrote in message ... In , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Probably. So you'd presume that its safe to use out in the open as it were... I expect its quite safe as long as you keep it wrapped in something suitable. No its not wrapped in anything special just some thin ally... The stuff I used to handle was not wrapped in anything, unless it was destined to fly, then it was painted in 'international orange' paint Dave |
Cutting and drilling lead
Dave wrote:
On 07/05/2011 19:37, tony sayer wrote: In , dennis@home scribeth thus "The Natural wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman wrote: On 07/05/2011 06:59, Matty F wrote: On May 7, 3:45 am, Roger wrote: I need to replace the weights in some of my sash windows, because the existing ones aren't heavy enough. I need to use lead because less dense iron or steel weights would occupy more space than is available. Depleted uranium takes even less space, and is probably cheap. I'm not sure how it should be cut though :) Plus the added bonus of your window frames glowing in the dark :-) DEPLETED uranium is NOT radioactive. Shhh you don't want to tell everyone. Especially as it is radioactive with a half life of about 4.5 billion years. Ah look at that a radioactive natural element that lasts "forever" I wonder how we should store it for safe disposal. ;-) Is that the same grade of metal that thy use as stabilisers on the tail of a Jumbo jet?.. Spent uranium is used extensively in the aerospace industry, mainly as ballast, I don't know why it was used on the tail of a jumbo though. High weight per unit volume. Think its aero balancing..reduces possibility of tail surface flutter. The ballast is used to ensure that the center of lift from the wings coincides with center of gravity, otherwise you can end up with an unstable aircraft. Firstly not always why its used,. secondly centre of lift is always where C of G is of necessity. That is not the issue. The issue is that it is so with the aircraft in steady flight, rather than e.g. pointing 90 degrees down :-) Its very easy to move the centre of lift: that's what the elevators are for. The critical reason to move the C of G is to do with the differential movement of the centre of lift with the planes angle. If the center of lift moves forward as the pklane noses up, its deeply unstable,. All aircraft have to be accurately weighed as one of the last phases before its first flight. The aircraft is de-fueled at its correct flight attitude and this information is fed into the flight computers. ?? Sounds like someone who has worked around an arcraft factoy with no real understaninding of aerodynamics to me.. |
Cutting and drilling lead
On 08/05/2011 15:13, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 8 May 2011 10:34:48 +0100, DerbyBoy wrote: What about a long cylinder full of Mercury (see other posts about mercury container!) B-) Mercury is only 2g/cm^3 denser than Lead so the added agro is probably not worth it. Hg 13.5g/cm^3, Pb 11.3g/cm^3. Gold would be better 19.3g/cm^3 that's higher (just) than uranium. Now there's a thought - turn all my gold ingots into sash weights. No-one would think of looking *there* for them! g -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
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