I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

John wrote:
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Are you sure that it is noisy and not just an echo?

--
Adam

John wrote:
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Are you sure that it is noisy and not just an echo?

--
Adam

On 15/03/2011 20:35, John wrote:
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Totally agree. Someone pulling the cord in the middle of the night wakes
the whole house. I've not been successful in finding a quiet one though.

"John" wrote in message ...
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Momentary contact low voltage pullcord, and some sort of latching relay box?

There must me something of that sort on the market. Try home automation websites.

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

Graham. ) wibbled on Tuesday 15 March 2011 21:05:


"John" wrote in message
...
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Momentary contact low voltage pullcord, and some sort of latching relay
box?

There must me something of that sort on the market. Try home automation
websites.

http://www.tlc-
direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Pull_Cords_All/Dimpull/index.html?source=adwords&kw=pull+cord+dimmer&gcli d=CJCirYK90acCFUFC4Qod_CUrCQ

Assuming your lights can be dimmed. I have one - it is silent!


--
Tim Watts

On 15/03/2011 20:50, Peter Scott wrote:
On 15/03/2011 20:35, John wrote:
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Totally agree. Someone pulling the cord in the middle of the night wakes
the whole house. I've not been successful in finding a quiet one though.

Occupancy sensor?

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message , The Medway Handyman
writes
On 15/03/2011 20:50, Peter Scott wrote:
On 15/03/2011 20:35, John wrote:
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Totally agree. Someone pulling the cord in the middle of the night wakes
the whole house. I've not been successful in finding a quiet one though.

Occupancy sensor?

Many years ago, I had a ceiling switch which was virtually silent. It
was probably 50 years old when, unfortunately, it packed up. The one I
replaced it with produced a noise like a pistol being fired. I've
learned to live with it - partly by refining my pulling technique, and
partly by ignoring it. But there must be some quite switches out there.
--
Ian

Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , The Medway Handyman
writes
On 15/03/2011 20:50, Peter Scott wrote:
On 15/03/2011 20:35, John wrote:
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy
new one in my bathroom.

Totally agree. Someone pulling the cord in the middle of the night
wakes the whole house. I've not been successful in finding a quiet
one though.

Occupancy sensor?

Many years ago, I had a ceiling switch which was virtually silent. It
was probably 50 years old when, unfortunately, it packed up. The one I
replaced it with produced a noise like a pistol being fired. I've
learned to live with it - partly by refining my pulling technique, and
partly by ignoring it. But there must be some quite switches out
there.

The quietest ones were made by Legrand. CEF used to be stockists. I have not
used either for a few years.

--
Adam

In message , ARWadsworth
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , The Medway Handyman
writes
On 15/03/2011 20:50, Peter Scott wrote:
On 15/03/2011 20:35, John wrote:
I have given up trying to find a quiet one - but I am curious as to
why wall switches can have a gentle slow make/break action - but
ceiling ones seem to have a fast snap action.
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy
new one in my bathroom.

Totally agree. Someone pulling the cord in the middle of the night
wakes the whole house. I've not been successful in finding a quiet
one though.

Occupancy sensor?

Many years ago, I had a ceiling switch which was virtually silent. It
was probably 50 years old when, unfortunately, it packed up. The one I
replaced it with produced a noise like a pistol being fired. I've
learned to live with it - partly by refining my pulling technique, and
partly by ignoring it. But there must be some quite switches out
there.

The quietest ones were made by Legrand. CEF used to be stockists. I have not
used either for a few years.

A quick Google finds this:
http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/8997...ng-switch.html
Most posters simply talk around the problem, but there is this
recommendation in post #4:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CM2781.html
But no guarantees.
--
Ian

In article 4aef8ecc-dbb6-4a0a-b132-6474562f36a6
@p16g2000vbo.googlegroups.com, says...
If anyone knows of a quiet one then let me know - but I think I can
swop one from my loft light which is old and quiet with the noisy new
one in my bathroom.

Yeah, only the other day I was wondering about this - at 3am when one of
the kids went to the loo. Why they need the light on, I can't imagine -
there's a streetlight outside.

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

In article ,
says...
Occupancy sensor?


That's what we've done downstairs, though for different reasons.

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

On 16 Mar 2011 08:31:03 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2011-03-15, Skipweasel wrote:
In article ,
says...
Occupancy sensor?


That's what we've done downstairs, though for different reasons.

We have an LED nightlight in the bathroom so one can see to do one's
business without putting a light on.

What you need is a motion sensor...

--
Frank Erskine

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On 16 Mar 2011 08:31:03 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2011-03-15, Skipweasel wrote:
In article ,
says...
Occupancy sensor?


That's what we've done downstairs, though for different reasons.

We have an LED nightlight in the bathroom so one can see to do one's
business without putting a light on.

What you need is a motion sensor...

But what if you DON'T want to turn the light on?
--
Ian

On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 08:54:44 +0000, Ian Jackson wrote:

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On 16 Mar 2011 08:31:03 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2011-03-15, Skipweasel wrote:
In article ,
says...
Occupancy sensor?


That's what we've done downstairs, though for different reasons.

We have an LED nightlight in the bathroom so one can see to do one's
business without putting a light on.

What you need is a motion sensor...

But what if you DON'T want to turn the light on?

Then just pee...

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On 16 Mar 2011 09:02:34 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2011-03-16, Frank Erskine wrote:
On 16 Mar 2011 08:31:03 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2011-03-15, Skipweasel wrote:
In article ,
says...
Occupancy sensor?


That's what we've done downstairs, though for different reasons.

We have an LED nightlight in the bathroom so one can see to do one's
business without putting a light on.

What you need is a motion sensor...

Boo! Hiss!

er, grunt! plop!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

In article ,
says...
We have an LED nightlight in the bathroom so one can see to do one's
business without putting a light on.

What you need is a motion sensor...


Comes on as you pass it?

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! 10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

On Mar 16, 1:49*pm, Another John wrote:
In article ,
*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! *10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). *I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. *If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a ‘noise’ when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

On Mar 16, 2:52*pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49*pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! *10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). *I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. *If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a ‘noise’ when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

Jonathan

John wrote:

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

But not necessarily ruled out. I use a Dimpull with my
transformer-fed lights and extractor fan, and am now (at the risk
of tempting fate) approaching seven years without any issues.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

In message
,
Jonathan writes
On Mar 16, 2:52Â*pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49Â*pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
Â*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! Â*10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). Â*I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. Â*If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a €˜noise when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

The problem is that, to prevent arcing, all switches need to have a good
'snap' action. Obviously, this causes the click. [Without the snap
action, you are certain to get a lot more 'crackle and pop'.]

However, I reckon that it's not so much the contacts which make the
noise, but rather the bits that limit the amount of travel of the
switch. If so, then it should be possible to 'soften the blow', and
thereby produce a relatively quiet switch. I have no doubt that someone
has cracked this apparently insoluble problem - but who?
--
Ian

On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:46:55 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message
,
Jonathan writes
On Mar 16, 2:52*pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49*pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! *10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). *I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. *If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a ‘noise’ when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

The problem is that, to prevent arcing, all switches need to have a good
'snap' action.

Not necessarily - you could use a mercury tilt switch (possibly
actuated directly by the pullcord).

--
Frank Erskine

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:46:55 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message
,
Jonathan writes
On Mar 16, 2:52Â*pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49Â*pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
Â*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! Â*10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). Â*I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. Â*If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a €˜noise when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

The problem is that, to prevent arcing, all switches need to have a good
'snap' action.

Not necessarily - you could use a mercury tilt switch (possibly
actuated directly by the pullcord).

Mercury? These days, in the home?
--
Ian

On 16/03/2011 16:33, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:46:55 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message
,
Jonathan writes
On Mar 16, 2:52 pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49 pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! 10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the
complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one
click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside.
If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name
on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a €˜noise when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

The problem is that, to prevent arcing, all switches need to have a good
'snap' action.

Not necessarily - you could use a mercury tilt switch (possibly
actuated directly by the pullcord).

Mercury? These days, in the home?

Not that lethal stuff that as school kids we used to flick little balls
of across the lab (when we got bored of playing with the asbestos mats).

Could go back to the asbestos cement disposal thread. When I was in the
scouts we had loads of old asbestos cement left over from when the hut
had been re-roofed. We would break bits off and put them on a wood fire.
Used to explode in all directions. Great way of getting rid of it!

On 16/03/2011 09:49, Bob Eager wrote:
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 08:54:44 +0000, Ian Jackson wrote:

In , Frank Erskine
writes
On 16 Mar 2011 08:31:03 GMT, wrote:

On 2011-03-15, wrote:
In ,
says...
Occupancy sensor?


That's what we've done downstairs, though for different reasons.

We have an LED nightlight in the bathroom so one can see to do one's
business without putting a light on.

What you need is a motion sensor...

But what if you DON'T want to turn the light on?

Then just pee...

Since its a bathroom shouldn't that be Part Pee?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Ian Jackson wrote:
Mercury? These days, in the home?

So you don't use CFLs, then?

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
Mercury? These days, in the home?

So you don't use CFLs, then?

Haven't they changed their minds, and modern CFLs DON'T contain mercury?
--
Ian

In article ,
says...
Since its a bathroom shouldn't that be Part Pee?


If it's Part Pee you need to get your prostate checked.

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
Mercury? These days, in the home?

So you don't use CFLs, then?

Haven't they changed their minds, and modern CFLs DON'T contain mercury?

Not according to Wikipedia, but even ignoring Inserts tongue in cheek
such a reliable source,Un-inserts tongue the way they work is by
having an arc in a low pressure gas which generates UV light, which the
phosphor turns into visible light. The only variable I'm aware of is the
amount of mercury, which has been cut over the last few years.

LEDs don't contain mercury, and are about the same efficiency overall at
the moment, and improving all the time. Incidentally, most of them work
by having an ultraviolet LED illluminating a phosphor....

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
Mercury? These days, in the home?

So you don't use CFLs, then?

Haven't they changed their minds, and modern CFLs DON'T contain mercury?

Not according to Wikipedia, but even ignoring Inserts tongue in cheek
such a reliable source,Un-inserts tongue the way they work is by
having an arc in a low pressure gas which generates UV light, which the
phosphor turns into visible light. The only variable I'm aware of is
the amount of mercury, which has been cut over the last few years.

LEDs don't contain mercury, and are about the same efficiency overall
at the moment, and improving all the time. Incidentally, most of them
work by having an ultraviolet LED illluminating a phosphor....

Well, you'd have thought that, with all this wonderful, modern
technology, they'd have been able to solve the problem of noisy ceiling
switches!
--
Ian

Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
Mercury? These days, in the home?

So you don't use CFLs, then?

Haven't they changed their minds, and modern CFLs DON'T contain mercury?

Not according to Wikipedia, but even ignoring Inserts tongue in
cheek such a reliable source,Un-inserts tongue the way they work is
by having an arc in a low pressure gas which generates UV light, which
the phosphor turns into visible light. The only variable I'm aware of
is the amount of mercury, which has been cut over the last few years.

LEDs don't contain mercury, and are about the same efficiency overall
at the moment, and improving all the time. Incidentally, most of them
work by having an ultraviolet LED illluminating a phosphor....

Well, you'd have thought that, with all this wonderful, modern
technology, they'd have been able to solve the problem of noisy ceiling
switches!

It could be done by using wiping contacts and a shock absorber at the
end of travel, or just a shock absorber on the current butting contact
design, but that'd cost more.....

Or an optical switch using an LED, a movable plate, a photocell and a
relay. Same problem with the cost, then add in the standby power use.

Or a small, silent switch, and a relay hidden behind some soundproofing.

Or a motion sensor driving a relay or triac. But that might fall foul of
rules requiring total isolation while you're changin the bulb.

The common link is an increase in cost and complication and a likely
reduction in reliability.

The bottom line, as always, is "What do you want to do? And are you
willing to pay more to do it better?" In the UK, the answer to the
second part is, all too often, NO!

--
Tciao for Now!

John.

On Mar 16, 7:33*pm, John Williamson
wrote:
Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , John Williamson
writes
Ian Jackson wrote:
Mercury? These days, in the home?

So you don't use CFLs, then?

Haven't they changed their minds, and modern CFLs DON'T contain mercury?

Not according to Wikipedia, but even ignoring Inserts tongue in
cheek such a reliable source,Un-inserts tongue the way they work is
by having an arc in a low pressure gas which generates UV light, which
the phosphor turns into visible light. The only variable I'm aware of
is the amount of mercury, which has been cut over the last few years.

LEDs don't contain mercury, and are about the same efficiency overall
at the moment, and improving all the time. Incidentally, most of them
work by having an ultraviolet LED illluminating a phosphor....

Well, you'd have thought that, with all this wonderful, modern
technology, they'd have been able to solve the problem of noisy ceiling
switches!

It could be done by using wiping contacts and a shock absorber at the
end of travel, or just a shock absorber on the current butting contact
design, but that'd cost more.....

Or an optical switch using an LED, a movable plate, a photocell and a
relay. Same problem with the cost, then add in the standby power use.

Or a small, silent switch, and a relay hidden behind some soundproofing.

Or a motion sensor driving a relay or triac. But that might fall foul of
rules requiring total isolation while you're changin the bulb.

The common link is an increase in cost and complication and a likely
reduction in reliability.

The bottom line, as always, is "What do you want to do? And are you
willing to pay more to do it better?" In the UK, the answer to the
second part is, all too often, NO!

--
Tciao for Now!

John.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A micro-switch is quiet and can handle the power. All that is needed
is a simple ratchet type mechanism to toggle it. I am really
disappointed that the makers have made them so clunky.

On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 16:33:29 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:46:55 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message
,
Jonathan writes
On Mar 16, 2:52*pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49*pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! *10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). *I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. *If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a ‘noise’ when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

The problem is that, to prevent arcing, all switches need to have a good
'snap' action.

Not necessarily - you could use a mercury tilt switch (possibly
actuated directly by the pullcord).

Mercury? These days, in the home?

Well; it's inside a glass tube, you know.

--
Frank Erskine

On 16/03/2011 18:19 Invisible Man wrote:

Not that lethal stuff that as school kids we used to flick little balls
of across the lab (when we got bored of playing with the asbestos mats).

We used to float pennies on it when pennies were substantial lumps of
metal...

--
F

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 16:33:29 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:46:55 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message
,
Jonathan writes
On Mar 16, 2:52Â*pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49Â*pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
Â*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! Â*10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). Â*I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. Â*If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a €˜noise when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

The problem is that, to prevent arcing, all switches need to have a good
'snap' action.

Not necessarily - you could use a mercury tilt switch (possibly
actuated directly by the pullcord).

Mercury? These days, in the home?

Well; it's inside a glass tube, you know.

Have you tried to buy a good old-fashioned mercury thermometer lately?
--
Ian

Jonathan wrote:

put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

So that annoying brother(s) can turn bathroom light off when sister is
locked inside?

On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 22:31:41 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 16:33:29 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:46:55 +0000, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message
,
Jonathan writes
On Mar 16, 2:52*pm, John wrote:
On Mar 16, 1:49*pm, Another John wrote:

In article ,
*Frank Erskine wrote:

What you need is a motion sensor...

HA HA HA! *10/10!

Funny how common this problem is -- I also agree with the complaint. I
have a couple of "quiet" ones (what's more, they work with one click,
not a "tick-tock" or rtather "clunk-click" action). *I just took the
cover off one of them, but there's no maker's name on the inside. *If
you really want me to, I'll unscrew it and see if there's a name on the
side faced to the ceiling.

John

I have just e-mailed MK Techical to ask why they are noisy.

I have been told (wait for it!!)

"The product that you have described will make a ‘noise’ when the pull
cord is operated due to the mechanical mechanism inside, this coupled
with the location ie mounted plasterboard on the ceiling will sound
louder."

Amazing! Glad I didn't waste a postage stamp!

I will become obsessive and try switches in shops whenever I see them.
In the meantime a swop with my loft switch is called for when it is
light enough.

Incidentally - I have a transformer for LV lamps and a fan so a
sensor / dimmer is not a simple choice.

This whole problem made me put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

The problem is that, to prevent arcing, all switches need to have a good
'snap' action.

Not necessarily - you could use a mercury tilt switch (possibly
actuated directly by the pullcord).

Mercury? These days, in the home?

Well; it's inside a glass tube, you know.

Have you tried to buy a good old-fashioned mercury thermometer lately?

No, but I have several already.

RS stock a range of mercury tilt switches though.

--
Frank Erskine

On Mar 17, 8:06*am, Andy Burns wrote:
Jonathan wrote:
put all our bathroom switches outside the
bathrooms when we re-wired. then I could have normal switches.

So that annoying brother(s) can turn bathroom light off when sister is
locked inside?

My children are too old for that and we have no grandchildren.

Jonathan

"Skipweasel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
We have an LED nightlight in the bathroom so one can see to do one's
business without putting a light on.

What you need is a motion sensor...


Comes on as you pass it?

We have three lights on pull cords one is very noisy the other two almost
silent so it certainly varies between brands.

One hotel I use regularly has motion sensors for the bathroom lights and
they are a PITA! Firstly the lights are VERY BRIGHT and come on unexpectedly
during the night, I always remember to close the bathroom door now. Secondly
if sat and not moving for a few mins they go off and the sensor is by the
door not the pan so you have to wave frantically to get them to come back on
again, what mental picture does that drum up :-)

Mike