We had the National Grid engineer here yesterday to do a gas meter
swap-out and, in the course of this, he did a pressure test on our
installation which resulted in him giving the thumbs down to our
central heating boiler because its gas control valve seeps when
rotated (although not when it's in the service position).

So, I'm looking for a new valve.

Our boiler is old, it's a Crane Cavalier dating from, quite possibly,
the sixties, and the valve fitted - http://bit.ly/ernF18 - was long
ago discontinued by Honeywell.

The gas fitter I've called in has dismissed the possibility of fitting
an alternative unit as he says the collateral work created isn't
practicable plus, in fairness, the working space isn't generous.

Does anyone know of a source of discontinued/re-furb'd, but
serviceable, boiler parts?

We really don't want to contemplate having a new boiler, as we hope to
sell and move from here early next year.

Any suggestions will be seized upon gratefully - it's cold in here.

TIA.

On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 15:33:52 +0000, Appelation Controlee wrote:

We really don't want to contemplate having a new boiler, as we hope to
sell and move from here early next year.

Hum, with a boiler that old it's going to knock a few grand off the
price of the house or at least give any buyers a reason for making
reduced offers. It's also not a good selling point, where as a new
boiler is...

Have a couple of cents...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:38:39 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 15:33:52 +0000, Appelation Controlee wrote:

We really don't want to contemplate having a new boiler, as we hope to
sell and move from here early next year.

Hum, with a boiler that old it's going to knock a few grand off the
price of the house or at least give any buyers a reason for making
reduced offers. It's also not a good selling point, where as a new
boiler is...

Have a couple of cents...

Point taken, but it's a floor-standing beastie with a huge flue
terminal. The impact on the kitchen of having such work done would be
really major. e.g. I can't visualise such a job being done without
removing the worktop that bridges the boiler, and that also carries
the kitchen sink.

Appelation Controlee wrote:
We had the National Grid engineer here yesterday to do a gas meter
swap-out and, in the course of this, he did a pressure test on our
installation which resulted in him giving the thumbs down to our
central heating boiler because its gas control valve seeps when
rotated (although not when it's in the service position).

So, I'm looking for a new valve.

Is it not possible to service the old valve? I would have thought that a
bit of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly with a suitable lubricant would
fix the problem.

Alternatively, I wonder if it would be legal to fit a new isolation valve in
series with the existing one?

Tim

On Nov 24, 5:53*pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:
Appelation Controlee wrote:
We had the National Grid engineer here yesterday to do a gas meter
swap-out and, in the course of this, he did a pressure test on our
installation which resulted in him giving the thumbs down to our
central heating boiler because its gas control valve seeps when
rotated (although not when it's in the service position).

So, I'm looking for a new valve.

Is it not possible to service the old valve? *I would have thought that a
bit of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly with a suitable lubricant would
fix the problem.

Alternatively, I wonder if it would be legal to fit a new isolation valve in
series with the existing one?

Tim

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY. Use a leak detection
spray/soapy water to check no leaks. Clean up mating surfaces with
plastic pan scrubber.

On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?

--
Tim Watts

Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?


Because it created no public sector jobs.

On 24/11/10 19:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?


Because it created no public sector jobs.

The sky is marshmallow....

--
Tim Watts

On 24/11/10 19:52, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?


Because it created no public sector jobs.

The sky is marshmallow....


The point being, the original statement was false...

--
Tim Watts

Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:52, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?


Because it created no public sector jobs.

The sky is marshmallow....


The point being, the original statement was false...

it had some truth in it with respect to CORGI and part Pee.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:52, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?


Because it created no public sector jobs.

The sky is marshmallow....


The point being, the original statement was false...

it had some truth in it with respect to CORGI and part Pee.

AIUI you don't need to be CORGI (now "gas safe") registered to do your
own gas work, or even a pal's, provided you don't get paid for it.

On 24/11/10 23:58, Ronald Raygun wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:52, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?


Because it created no public sector jobs.

The sky is marshmallow....


The point being, the original statement was false...

it had some truth in it with respect to CORGI and part Pee.

AIUI you don't need to be CORGI (now "gas safe") registered to do your
own gas work, or even a pal's, provided you don't get paid for it.


That is exactly the case. You merely need (in law) to be competent (the
precise nature of which is undefined).

--
Tim Watts

On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 00:46:15 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 23:58, Ronald Raygun wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:52, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 19:09, harry wrote:

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Why is DIY illegal?


Because it created no public sector jobs.

The sky is marshmallow....


The point being, the original statement was false...

it had some truth in it with respect to CORGI and part Pee.

AIUI you don't need to be CORGI (now "gas safe") registered to do your
own gas work, or even a pal's, provided you don't get paid for it.


That is exactly the case. You merely need (in law) to be competent (the
precise nature of which is undefined).

But can you still get house insurance ?


--
http://thisreallyismyhost.99k.org/24...2138284862.php

On Nov 24, 4:55*pm, Appelation Controlee wrote:
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:38:39 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"

wrote:
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 15:33:52 +0000, Appelation Controlee wrote:

We really don't want to contemplate having a new boiler, as we hope to
sell and move from here early next year.

Hum, with a boiler that old it's going to knock a few grand off the
price of the house or at least give any buyers a reason for making
reduced offers. It's also not a good selling point, where as a new
boiler is...

Have a couple of cents...

Point taken, but it's a floor-standing beastie with a huge flue
terminal. The impact on the kitchen of having such work done would be
really major. e.g. I can't visualise such a job being done without
removing the worktop that bridges the boiler, and that also carries
the kitchen sink.

The new occupants will probably want to remodel it all anyway. If
they've any sense they will appreciate it being left as it is.

Stupid previous owner of our hoouse replaced a huge cast iron floor
standing lump of a boiler like for like just before selling the house.
It went for scrap within 6 months.

MBQ

On Nov 25, 10:01*am, pete
wrote:

But can you still get house insurance ?

What's the figure (worryingly large) for the estimated percentage of
gas installations that are non-compliant? AFAIR, the figure for
installations that are 30+ years old (and that's a lot of
installations in older houses) is the majority of them, mostly for
inadequate ventilation.

The problems with gas aren't just bad new installations, the old ones
are a risk too - especially if new work for draughtproofing etc.
reduces what little ventilation there was to begin with.

pete wrote:

On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 00:46:15 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:
On 24/11/10 23:58, Ronald Raygun wrote:

AIUI you don't need to be CORGI (now "gas safe") registered to do your
own gas work, or even a pal's, provided you don't get paid for it.

That is exactly the case. You merely need (in law) to be competent (the
precise nature of which is undefined).

But can you still get house insurance ?

I don't see why not, unless your claims history involves a gas explosion
attributed to botched plumbing you had done yourself.

On Nov 24, 7:09*pm, harry wrote:
On Nov 24, 5:53*pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:



Appelation Controlee wrote:
We had the National Grid engineer here yesterday to do a gas meter
swap-out and, in the course of this, he did a pressure test on our
installation which resulted in him giving the thumbs down to our
central heating boiler because its gas control valve seeps when
rotated (although not when it's in the service position).

So, I'm looking for a new valve.

Is it not possible to service the old valve? *I would have thought that a
bit of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly with a suitable lubricant would
fix the problem.

Alternatively, I wonder if it would be legal to fit a new isolation valve in
series with the existing one?

Tim

The above is right. *Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). *Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY.

Are you being funny?

MBQ

Man at B&Q wrote:
On Nov 24, 4:55 pm, Appelation Controlee wrote:
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:38:39 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"

wrote:
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 15:33:52 +0000, Appelation Controlee wrote:
We really don't want to contemplate having a new boiler, as we hope to
sell and move from here early next year.
Hum, with a boiler that old it's going to knock a few grand off the
price of the house or at least give any buyers a reason for making
reduced offers. It's also not a good selling point, where as a new
boiler is...
Have a couple of cents...
Point taken, but it's a floor-standing beastie with a huge flue
terminal. The impact on the kitchen of having such work done would be
really major. e.g. I can't visualise such a job being done without
removing the worktop that bridges the boiler, and that also carries
the kitchen sink.

The new occupants will probably want to remodel it all anyway. If
they've any sense they will appreciate it being left as it is.

Stupid previous owner of our hoouse replaced a huge cast iron floor
standing lump of a boiler like for like just before selling the house.
It went for scrap within 6 months.


This is true except that it is used as a bargaiing point when
negotiating teh proce. Happened to me when selling mums house.

'Boiler isn't certificated, 5000 off my offer' 'the boiler is however
safe, if old and inefficient, **** off'

Basically you want the house to be functional and complete. I.e. it pays
to put in a new **** kitchen, even if you know the whole lot will be
ripped out and skipped within 6 weeks anyway.


I remember wryly shredding the damp and rot guarantees after I had
demolished the damp rotten shell of this house.


MBQ

The Natural Philosopher gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

I remember wryly shredding the damp and rot guarantees after I had
demolished the damp rotten shell of this house.

Guaranteed to be damp and rotten?

On 25/11/10 10:01, pete wrote:

But can you still get house insurance ?



It's never been a question I've been asked nor seen in the policy.

I'm had lots of declinations to quote based on having 40% flat roof
(that includes bays and dormer) though.

--
Tim Watts

On 25/11/10 11:54, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

This is true except that it is used as a bargaiing point when
negotiating teh proce. Happened to me when selling mums house.

'Boiler isn't certificated, 5000 off my offer'

What does "certified" mean? A brand new boiler may have installation
certification but a few years down the line it is all meaningless.

'the boiler is however
safe, if old and inefficient, **** off'

Quite right.

What I have done is to have a boiler service and a landlord's gas safety
check done and offer that as standard - it costs a hundred quid (plus
boiler service) and is about the most meaningful thing to offer IMHO.


--
Tim Watts

On 25/11/10 11:56, Adrian wrote:
The Natural gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

I remember wryly shredding the damp and rot guarantees after I had
demolished the damp rotten shell of this house.

Guaranteed to be damp and rotten?

"Ideal for Fungiculture"

--
Tim Watts

On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 02:24:40 -0800 (PST), Man at B&Q wrote:

Hum, with a boiler that old it's going to knock a few grand off
the
price of the house or at least give any buyers a reason for
making
reduced offers. It's also not a good selling point, where as a
new
boiler is...

Point taken, but it's a floor-standing beastie with a huge flue
terminal.

The new occupants will probably want to remodel it all anyway. If
they've any sense they will appreciate it being left as it is.

That is also valid. There is no right answer. If the kitchen is
otherwise "modern" rather than also 1960's then a new boiler is
probably worth it even with the disruption of switching to a balanced
flue wall mounted jobbie. It's something that the new occupants
"won't have to do". How ever if the place is in need of general
refurbishment, plumbing, wiring, kitchen. bathroom etc leave it as a
blank canvas on which they can make their mark.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 12:06:40 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:
On 25/11/10 10:01, pete wrote:

But can you still get house insurance ?



It's never been a question I've been asked nor seen in the policy.

I'm had lots of declinations to quote based on having 40% flat roof
(that includes bays and dormer) though.

The reason I asked was that presumably the "fault" from the NG engineer's
visit will have been logged somewhere. So in the event of kaboom
someone, who's job it is to find reasons not to pay insurance claims,
will find out about the leaky valve and ask to see evidence that it
had been fixed. In my cynical mind, saying you did it yourself and
therefore admitting that it was not done by a certified/registered
service person would be handing them an excuse on a plate.

I also have a feeling that BG are quite keen to investigate "gas
explosions" in order to transfer blame from their product onto
other causes. So even if the insurance people didn't question a
claim, you might still get a polite enquiry from BG, when the
reports of a "gas explosion destroys house" gets to their PR
department.

--
http://thisreallyismyhost.99k.org/25...0014630826.php

On 25/11/10 15:32, John Rumm wrote:

There is a vast difference however between the inference that getting
insurance will be harder if you have done your own gas work, and making
a successful claim after a gas related incident caused damage.

IME getting insurance is not conditional on not having does gas work.
The latter is a whole different ball game!


There may be a valid question that if your DIY gas exploits resulted in
a gas explosion, "competancy" may be called into question.

But I don;t think it will have any impact on any other claim - or at
least less impact compared to them noticing that your back door lock
wasn't up to standard despite the fact that it is patently unrelated to
the fact your garage was burgled (to paraphrase another poster here).

--
Tim Watts

On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 11:09:53 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

On Nov 24, 5:53*pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:
Appelation Controlee wrote:
We had the National Grid engineer here yesterday to do a gas meter
swap-out and, in the course of this, he did a pressure test on our
installation which resulted in him giving the thumbs down to our
central heating boiler because its gas control valve seeps when
rotated (although not when it's in the service position).

So, I'm looking for a new valve.

Is it not possible to service the old valve? *I would have thought that a
bit of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly with a suitable lubricant would
fix the problem.

Alternatively, I wonder if it would be legal to fit a new isolation valve in
series with the existing one?

Tim

The above is right. Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY. Use a leak detection
spray/soapy water to check no leaks. Clean up mating surfaces with
plastic pan scrubber.

Lube for gas valves turns out to be of a special type, presumably with
specially chained molecules, or whatever.

Anyway, the stuff I have here is a 50g tube of Rocol (R) M23660 Gas
tap lubricant. £18½ of your English pounds. (!)

Mucky stuff it is too.

Anyway, took the top off the gas valve controller and find it's a
pretty rudimentary device. I've dismantled and cleaned it, lubed the
moving bits and got as much grease as possible up the channel that the
shaft from the control knob passes through.

Re-assembled, re-fitted and there's now no "puff" of escaping gas when
the knob is depressed (which is what led the engineer to leave us in a
disconnected state).

Boiler is now running, but, lo and behold, there's a bit of a seep
from the inboard union attached to the gas meter... can't make my mind
up whether or not it's a left-hand thread. Anyone know?

Adrian wrote:
The Natural Philosopher gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

I remember wryly shredding the damp and rot guarantees after I had
demolished the damp rotten shell of this house.

Guaranteed to be damp and rotten?

To be fair most of the bits that had been treated were OK.

Just not much HAD been treated and the maintenance was absysmal. water
was getting in at bargeboard level and dripping inside the timber walls
and there was rising damp round the lovely porous brick fireplaces.


I had always meant to totally redo it, and it was cheap. But a total
refurb turned into a new build once we started poking into the structure...

John Rumm wrote:
On 25/11/2010 12:10, Tim Watts wrote:
On 25/11/10 11:56, Adrian wrote:
The Natural gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

I remember wryly shredding the damp and rot guarantees after I had
demolished the damp rotten shell of this house.

Guaranteed to be damp and rotten?

"Ideal for Fungiculture"

Estate agent speak: "You won't be claiming there is not mushroom in this
house!"

Groan!

Tim Watts wrote:
On 25/11/10 10:01, pete wrote:

But can you still get house insurance ?



It's never been a question I've been asked nor seen in the policy.

I'm had lots of declinations to quote based on having 40% flat roof
(that includes bays and dormer) though.

and thatch too.

even a brand new thatched roof to full fire specs.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Appelation Controlee
saying something like:

Boiler is now running, but, lo and behold, there's a bit of a seep
from the inboard union attached to the gas meter... can't make my mind
up whether or not it's a left-hand thread. Anyone know?

Gas meters have two ordinary threads, iirc.

On Thu, 25 Nov 2010 21:47:32 +0000, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Appelation Controlee
saying something like:

Boiler is now running, but, lo and behold, there's a bit of a seep
from the inboard union attached to the gas meter... can't make my mind
up whether or not it's a left-hand thread. Anyone know?

Gas meters have two ordinary threads, iirc.

Thanks.

On Nov 25, 5:09*pm, Appelation Controlee wrote:
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 11:09:53 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:





On Nov 24, 5:53*pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:
Appelation Controlee wrote:
We had the National Grid engineer here yesterday to do a gas meter
swap-out and, in the course of this, he did a pressure test on our
installation which resulted in him giving the thumbs down to our
central heating boiler because its gas control valve seeps when
rotated (although not when it's in the service position).

So, I'm looking for a new valve.

Is it not possible to service the old valve? *I would have thought that a
bit of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly with a suitable lubricant would
fix the problem.

Alternatively, I wonder if it would be legal to fit a new isolation valve in
series with the existing one?

Tim

The above is right. *Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). *Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY. *Use a leak detection
spray/soapy water to check no leaks. *Clean up mating surfaces with
plastic pan scrubber.

Lube for gas valves turns out to be of a special type, presumably with
specially chained molecules, or whatever.

Anyway, the stuff I have here is a 50g tube of Rocol (R) M23660 Gas
tap lubricant. £18½ of your English pounds. (!)

Mucky stuff it is too.

Anyway, took the top off the gas valve controller and find it's a
pretty rudimentary device. I've dismantled and cleaned it, lubed the
moving bits and got as much grease as possible up the channel that the
shaft from the control knob passes through.

Re-assembled, re-fitted and there's now no "puff" of escaping gas when
the knob is depressed (which is what led the engineer to leave us in a
disconnected state).

Boiler is now running, but, lo and behold, there's a bit of a seep
from the inboard union attached to the gas meter... can't make my mind
up whether or not it's a left-hand thread. Anyone know?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Normal RH thread. This ia best fixed with PTFE. Use the soapy water
to detect any leaks aferwards.
You need two spanners/Stilsons whatever to undo the union to avoid
undue stress on the pipework. ie one on the union nut and one on the
union body.

In article ,
John Rumm writes:
On 25/11/2010 12:10, Tim Watts wrote:
On 25/11/10 11:56, Adrian wrote:
The Natural gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

I remember wryly shredding the damp and rot guarantees after I had
demolished the damp rotten shell of this house.

Guaranteed to be damp and rotten?

"Ideal for Fungiculture"

Estate agent speak: "You won't be claiming there is not mushroom in this
house!"

Reminds me of a work colleague 25 years ago, who got a mushroom kit
and started growing them in the loft. The following year, they
started growing all over the loft, not just in the growing trays...

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Fri, 26 Nov 2010 05:25:34 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:

On Nov 25, 5:09*pm, Appelation Controlee wrote:
On Wed, 24 Nov 2010 11:09:53 -0800 (PST), harry
wrote:





On Nov 24, 5:53*pm, "Tim Downie" wrote:
Appelation Controlee wrote:
We had the National Grid engineer here yesterday to do a gas meter
swap-out and, in the course of this, he did a pressure test on our
installation which resulted in him giving the thumbs down to our
central heating boiler because its gas control valve seeps when
rotated (although not when it's in the service position).

So, I'm looking for a new valve.

Is it not possible to service the old valve? *I would have thought that a
bit of disassembly, cleaning and reassembly with a suitable lubricant would
fix the problem.

Alternatively, I wonder if it would be legal to fit a new isolation valve in
series with the existing one?

Tim

The above is right. *Most gas valves are not assembled dry but with a
lubricant.
It looks like vaseline (but isn't). *Your gas valve has seen little
use, it will be OK. You could illegally DIY. *Use a leak detection
spray/soapy water to check no leaks. *Clean up mating surfaces with
plastic pan scrubber.

Lube for gas valves turns out to be of a special type, presumably with
specially chained molecules, or whatever.

Anyway, the stuff I have here is a 50g tube of Rocol (R) M23660 Gas
tap lubricant. £18½ of your English pounds. (!)

Mucky stuff it is too.

Anyway, took the top off the gas valve controller and find it's a
pretty rudimentary device. I've dismantled and cleaned it, lubed the
moving bits and got as much grease as possible up the channel that the
shaft from the control knob passes through.

Re-assembled, re-fitted and there's now no "puff" of escaping gas when
the knob is depressed (which is what led the engineer to leave us in a
disconnected state).

Boiler is now running, but, lo and behold, there's a bit of a seep
from the inboard union attached to the gas meter... can't make my mind
up whether or not it's a left-hand thread. Anyone know?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Normal RH thread. This ia best fixed with PTFE. Use the soapy water
to detect any leaks aferwards.
You need two spanners/Stilsons whatever to undo the union to avoid
undue stress on the pipework. ie one on the union nut and one on the
union body.

Yup - all sorted now, apart from SWMBO having misgivings about safety.
:-(

I already knew about the "méthode de l'eau savonneuse" thanks. :-)

replying to Appelation Controlee, cran wrote:
As a gas engineer I am looking for a gas valve for the same boiler customer
wants to keep the one pipe system.( does not want the upheaval of updating the
system (£6000.00) gas board estimate..........its a honywell v8267..a1228 24v
...........I need to kick ass at honeywell .....you mean you don't have
parts for your 30 year old boilers.....disgracefull! ....cran

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...th-670495-.htm

On 14/05/2016 22:44, cran wrote:
replying to Appelation Controlee,

Do you mean replying 6 years later from homeownershub?


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

Probably just got out of hospital after the boiler explosion.
Brian

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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

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"alan_m" wrote in message
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On 14/05/2016 22:44, cran wrote:
replying to Appelation Controlee,

Do you mean replying 6 years later from homeownershub?


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mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Saturday, 14 May 2016 22:44:03 UTC+1, cran wrote:
replying to Appelation Controlee, cran wrote:

As a gas engineer I am looking for a gas valve for the same boiler customer
wants to keep the one pipe system.( does not want the upheaval of updating the
system (£6000.00) gas board estimate..........its a honywell v8267..a1228 24v
...........I need to kick ass at honeywell .....you mean you don't have
parts for your 30 year old boilers.....disgracefull! ....cran

You sure don't sound like a gas engineer. You won't get one, it's repair or new boiler.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
On Saturday, 14 May 2016 22:44:03 UTC+1, cran wrote:
replying to Appelation Controlee, cran wrote:

As a gas engineer I am looking for a gas valve for the same boiler
customer wants to keep the one pipe system.( does not want the upheaval
of updating the system (£6000.00) gas board estimate..........its a
honywell v8267..a1228 24v ...........I need to kick ass at honeywell
.....you mean you don't have parts for your 30 year old
boilers.....disgracefull! ....cran

You sure don't sound like a gas engineer. You won't get one, it's repair
or new boiler.


you sound that the chap who came from British Gas when our Village Hall
boiler failed. "Can't get the parts - it needs a new boiler." So, I rang
someone from the Yellow Pages, he looked then rang someone on his mobile
and fitted the replacement part two days later.

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from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 15/05/2016 19:28, charles wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
On Saturday, 14 May 2016 22:44:03 UTC+1, cran wrote:
replying to Appelation Controlee, cran wrote:

As a gas engineer I am looking for a gas valve for the same boiler
customer wants to keep the one pipe system.( does not want the upheaval
of updating the system (£6000.00) gas board estimate..........its a
honywell v8267..a1228 24v ...........I need to kick ass at honeywell
.....you mean you don't have parts for your 30 year old
boilers.....disgracefull! ....cran

You sure don't sound like a gas engineer. You won't get one, it's repair
or new boiler.


you sound that the chap who came from British Gas when our Village Hall
boiler failed. "Can't get the parts - it needs a new boiler." So, I rang
someone from the Yellow Pages, he looked then rang someone on his mobile
and fitted the replacement part two days later.

I've had the same situation with at least three customers, BG say that,
my Gas Safe mate gets the parts in a day or so.

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Dave - The Medway Handyman