I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it will
need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve the
wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great trouble
breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen

"Stephen Mawson" wrote in message
...
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it
will need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve
the wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great
trouble breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen

I've always used a heavy lump hammer, put a sacking or similar along the
bottom to prevent the enamel splintering
in all directions, then whollop it , once started they go fairly easily, but
it's warm work. Be carefull as the enamel splinters and the broken
cast iron can be very sharp, so best to wear gloves when carrying the bits
out.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Stephen Mawson"
saying something like:

I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it will
need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve the
wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great trouble
breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Goggles a must - the flying shards of enamel are razor sharp.
Lump or sledgehammer, after anglegrinding a slot in the top edge to
weaken it, I found was the way to go.

Stephen Mawson wrote:
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it will
need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve the
wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great trouble
breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen


ear defenders, sledge, and hit it as if your life depended on it.

once its started, its easier

On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 11:49:45 +0100, A Plumber wrote:

"Stephen Mawson" wrote in message
...
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it
will need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve
the wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great
trouble breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen

I've always used a heavy lump hammer, put a sacking or similar along the
bottom to prevent the enamel splintering
in all directions, then whollop it , once started they go fairly easily, but
it's warm work. Be carefull as the enamel splinters and the broken
cast iron can be very sharp, so best to wear gloves when carrying the bits
out.

Yup, seconded (esp. about protection - it's as sharp as glass and the
small dust-sized particles can easily get in your eyes). I found it
was easier to hit the insides of the bath, starting at the point where
the base starts to curve up into the walls. A cold chisel might also
be handy to start the fractures. After you get some crakcs going it
gets easier.
It's also very noisy and the pieces you get left with are quite heavy -
you'll need something pretty substantial to transport the debris.


--
http://www.thisreallyismyhost.99k.or...0845521206.php

Stephen Mawson wrote:
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an
acrylic one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far
side so it will need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I
hope to preserve the wall tiles above it. I recall from many years
ago that I had great trouble breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge
hammer just bounced off it. Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course
from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the
bath, then cold chisel to split?)

Why not have it resurfaced? Dunno where you are but we used this guy
http://www.radiantbaths.co.uk/ and he did a fantastic job. The bath itself
was, at the time of resurfacing, 53 years old and in fairly poor condition.
Now, 6 years after Nigel worked his magic, it still looks like brand new.

"Stephen Mawson" wrote in message
...
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an
acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so
it will
need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve
the
wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great
trouble
breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the
angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the
bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen



Stephen,

There was a thread on this theme a few weeks ago, and I'll repeat the
advice I gave then: drill a hole through the bath to create a 'stress
riser' then wack it with a club hammer on the hole - bigger is better.

AWEM

On 25/09/2010 11:49, A Plumber wrote:
I've always used a heavy lump hammer, put a sacking or similar along the
bottom to prevent the enamel splintering
in all directions, then whollop it , once started they go fairly easily, but
it's warm work. Be carefull as the enamel splinters and the broken
cast iron can be very sharp, so best to wear gloves when carrying the bits
out.



When I did it a few years ago the shock from the hammer made my hands go
numb for a few days. Best to wear gloves during during the operation too!

But as you say a lump hammer does work if you persevere.

Another Dave

Tsk, remember the last discussion :-)

Cast iron is strong in compression - but weak in tension.

Angle grind if possible a horizontal slot in the side higher up, and a
slot in the bottom.
Alternatively scratch the enamel away (pointed cold chisel), then
drill with something like a HSS-G or whatever is good on cast iron.
Hit the bottom so as to create a tension load so the slots can no
propogate into cracks.

Frankly I am not sure a club hammer is the best thing, I think one of
those hexagonal road bars is probably better because it has both small
area, fantastic kinetic energy, long duration impulse rather than
"bounce off". You would need a short one unless you want to
simultaneously do the ceiling at the same time.

On 25/09/2010 15:59, js.b1 wrote:
Tsk, remember the last discussion :-)

Cast iron is strong in compression - but weak in tension.

Angle grind if possible a horizontal slot in the side higher up, and a
slot in the bottom.
Alternatively scratch the enamel away (pointed cold chisel), then
drill with something like a HSS-G or whatever is good on cast iron.
Hit the bottom so as to create a tension load so the slots can no
propogate into cracks.

Frankly I am not sure a club hammer is the best thing, I think one of
those hexagonal road bars is probably better because it has both small
area, fantastic kinetic energy, long duration impulse rather than
"bounce off". You would need a short one unless you want to
simultaneously do the ceiling at the same time.

You are undoubtedly correct (I did Metallurgy at Sheffield University
back in the early sixties) :-(

However I did not have:

a. An angle grinder
b. A pointed cold chisel
c. An HSS-G drill
d. A hexagonal road bar

I did have a friend with a club hammer so that's what I went with.

Who says a university education is wasted?

Another Dave

On 25 Sep, 11:38, "Stephen Mawson"
wrote:
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic


Cast iron was used in the old days, there are a lot of pressed steel
baths around now.
If it doesn't shatter in response to a hefty belt then it's probably
steel.

On 25 Sep, 11:38, "Stephen Mawson"
wrote:
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it will
need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve the
wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great trouble
breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen

Be scientific. Cast iron is strong in compression & weak in tension.
Hit it on the inside. Breaks easily. You need goggles.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Stephen Mawson wrote:
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it
will need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve
the wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great
trouble breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen
ear defenders, sledge, and hit it as if your life depended on it.

once its started, its easier

And the bigger the hammer the better.

One big bash with a sledge hammer and the bath is broken. The rest is easy
with a lump hammer.

Cheers

Adam

In article , Another Dave
scribeth thus
On 25/09/2010 15:59, js.b1 wrote:
Tsk, remember the last discussion :-)

Cast iron is strong in compression - but weak in tension.

Angle grind if possible a horizontal slot in the side higher up, and a
slot in the bottom.
Alternatively scratch the enamel away (pointed cold chisel), then
drill with something like a HSS-G or whatever is good on cast iron.
Hit the bottom so as to create a tension load so the slots can no
propogate into cracks.

Frankly I am not sure a club hammer is the best thing, I think one of
those hexagonal road bars is probably better because it has both small
area, fantastic kinetic energy, long duration impulse rather than
"bounce off". You would need a short one unless you want to
simultaneously do the ceiling at the same time.

You are undoubtedly correct (I did Metallurgy at Sheffield University
back in the early sixties) :-(

However I did not have:

a. An angle grinder
b. A pointed cold chisel
c. An HSS-G drill
d. A hexagonal road bar

I did have a friend with a club hammer so that's what I went with.

Who says a university education is wasted?

Another Dave


Simple!, Just wait till paddy is digging the road up again and slip him
a few quid and a gallon of the black stuff, and I'm sure you'd get a
road drill in most bathrooms...


--
Tony Sayer

Stephen Mawson wrote:
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an
acrylic one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far
side so it will need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I
hope to preserve the wall tiles above it. I recall from many years
ago that I had great trouble breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge
hammer just bounced off it. Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course
from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the
bath, then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen

It requires a good hiding with a large hammer...wear ear defenders and
goggles, prevention of splitting of ear drums and eyeballs respectively

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article , Another Dave
scribeth thus
On 25/09/2010 15:59, js.b1 wrote:
Tsk, remember the last discussion :-)

Cast iron is strong in compression - but weak in tension.

Angle grind if possible a horizontal slot in the side higher up,
and a
slot in the bottom.
Alternatively scratch the enamel away (pointed cold chisel), then
drill with something like a HSS-G or whatever is good on cast
iron.
Hit the bottom so as to create a tension load so the slots can no
propogate into cracks.

Frankly I am not sure a club hammer is the best thing, I think
one of
those hexagonal road bars is probably better because it has both
small
area, fantastic kinetic energy, long duration impulse rather than
"bounce off". You would need a short one unless you want to
simultaneously do the ceiling at the same time.

You are undoubtedly correct (I did Metallurgy at Sheffield
University
back in the early sixties) :-(

However I did not have:

a. An angle grinder
b. A pointed cold chisel
c. An HSS-G drill
d. A hexagonal road bar

I did have a friend with a club hammer so that's what I went with.

Who says a university education is wasted?

Another Dave


Simple!, Just wait till paddy is digging the road up again and slip
him
a few quid and a gallon of the black stuff, and I'm sure you'd get a
road drill in most bathrooms...


--
Tony Sayer




I'd lend the o/p (my big bruvver) a road drill if he so desires, but
it's almost a heavy to get up the stairs as the bath is to come down
!!!!

AWEM

On 25/09/2010 17:38, Onetap wrote:

Cast iron was used in the old days, there are a lot of pressed steel
baths around now.
If it doesn't shatter in response to a hefty belt then it's probably
steel.


That's a good point. If you hit it, and it bends, it ain't cast iron.

Is it really not worth anything to an architectural salvage place?

Andy

On 26/09/2010 15:27, Andy Champ wrote:
On 25/09/2010 17:38, Onetap wrote:

Cast iron was used in the old days, there are a lot of pressed steel
baths around now.
If it doesn't shatter in response to a hefty belt then it's probably
steel.


That's a good point. If you hit it, and it bends, it ain't cast iron.

Is it really not worth anything to an architectural salvage place?


We recently got rid of a cast iron bath from the upstairs bathroom
(ex-residence for the toy duck, now homeless) by chucking it out in the
front. Well, not quite chucking - it took four men to lift it down the
stairs carefuly in one piece and avoid scraping newly replastered walls.

So that evening it was standing out in full display of the whole street.

There were three knocks at the door 'here man, that bath - can I be
havin it?' which we politely turned down so we could give the option to
people we knew. Our decorating guys weren't interested - their vehicle
weight limits, distance of travel and all that.

Then we hit on the great brainwave of filling the bath with the all the
rubbish (tiles, wood, broken sink china) that we were also throwing -
and so the newly offered deal was 'if you get rid of all this, ye can
have the bath, gratis'

It was the third caller the following morning that picked it _all_ up,
and neighbouring streets don't seem littered with the crummy stuff that
was in the bath, so I can assume the terms of the deal were followed
through.

That's six individual callers in the space of about 8 hours of daylight
to show interest in this scrap iron. Wow.

Of course, I've now probably broken some crazy law against giving junk
to a non-licensed waste contractor :-(

--
Adrian C

"Adrian C" wrote in message
...


Of course, I've now probably broken some crazy law against giving junk to
a non-licensed waste contractor :-(

--
Adrian C


Dennis will have something to say about that.

--
Adam

"Stephen Mawson" wrote in message
...
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it
will need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve
the wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great
trouble breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)


My OH used a lump hammer on ours. He is a plumber by trade, so I guess he
knew what was what on that. It took him about five cracks at it .
One thing I will say though, don't put it down the tip. Take it to the scrap
merchant. OH got £20 for ours ( scrap is by weight apparently). I know
because he gave me the money after he had done it.

"Pete Zahut" wrote in message
...
Stephen Mawson wrote:


Why not have it resurfaced? Dunno where you are but we used this guy
http://www.radiantbaths.co.uk/ and he did a fantastic job. The bath itself
was, at the time of resurfacing, 53 years old and in fairly poor
condition. Now, 6 years after Nigel worked his magic, it still looks like
brand new.

You sound like my OH! There comes a point in life where one would like a NEW
bath, not a re vamped one. I know this because it has taken me 15 years
and upteen arguments to get my lovely new one. ( did have a rubbish avacado
version from the 1970's, although I have this odd suspicion that was
actually a n older re enamaled job. OH said not, I reckon it possibly was.

sweetheart wrote:
"Pete Zahut" wrote in message
...
Stephen Mawson wrote:


Why not have it resurfaced? Dunno where you are but we used this guy
http://www.radiantbaths.co.uk/ and he did a fantastic job. The bath
itself was, at the time of resurfacing, 53 years old and in fairly
poor condition. Now, 6 years after Nigel worked his magic, it still
looks like brand new.

You sound like my OH! There comes a point in life where one would
like a NEW bath, not a re vamped one. I know this because it has
taken me 15 years and upteen arguments to get my lovely new one. (
did have a rubbish avacado version from the 1970's, although I have
this odd suspicion that was actually a n older re enamaled job. OH
said not, I reckon it possibly was.

Well, having seen some of your posts regarding your other half, I'm rather
upset that your comparing me to him - I truly don't know how you put up with
the man :-(

However, my reason for having the bath resurfaced was not because I'm tight
or anything but because it's a brilliant bath with historic and sentimental
value, it's far bigger, better and of course, not flimsy like a modern bath.
My parents are both dead now and when we inherited their house, we had it
refurbished and now rent it out. My dad installed that bath himself 59 years
ago, which was 7 years before I was born. If a bath can be described as
fantastic, that truly is a fantastic bath. If it would fit here in our own
house we would have had it in a heartbeat, but sadly, it wouldn't - and we
have an inferior, modern, acrylic one.

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 09:47:18 +0100, "sweetheart" hotmail.com wrote:


One thing I will say though, don't put it down the tip. Take it to the scrap
merchant. OH got £20 for ours ( scrap is by weight apparently). I know
because he gave me the money after he had done it.

Blimey - must have got £40 for it then...

--
Geo

On Sep 26, 6:51*pm, Adrian C wrote:
Of course, I've now probably broken some crazy law against giving junk
to a non-licensed waste contractor :-(

You have. That's OK provided they actually took the waste to the tip
(*). The problem is if they dumped the waste somewhere - if the
council can identify you from the waste, they can and will come after
you.

(*) Of course, technically I suspect they would be taking commercial
waste to the tip rather than household, but meeh.

"Stephen Mawson" wrote in message
...
I'm replacing a cast-iron bath (enamel in poor condition) with an acrylic
one. The present bath has walls along both ends and the far side so it
will need to be broken up to get it out, especially as I hope to preserve
the wall tiles above it. I recall from many years ago that I had great
trouble breaking a cast-iron bath -- a sledge hammer just bounced off it.
Does anyone have any advice -- apart of course from the angle-grinder.
(Actually, would that be a possibility? Slot cut in the edge of the bath,
then cold chisel to split?)

Stephen

Many thanks for all the advice. The bath is now removed and down at the
dump, thanks to ear-defenders, goggles, lump hammer and pointed cold-chisel.
The cast iron was remarkably flexible. I was quoted £130 a ton as scrap so
it really wasn't worth the diesel to take it ten miles to the scrap dealer.

Stephen