Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit
connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how long
I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself they are ok?

The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest are, I
suppose that answers the question really...

Lee

--
Never summon Anything you can't banish.
-
To reply use lee.blaver and ntlworld com

Lee Blaver wrote:

Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit
connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how long
I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself they are ok?

The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest are, I
suppose that answers the question really...

Did the whole house with JG 2 years ago, no leaks.

--
Grunff

Lee Blaver wrote:
Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit
connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how
long I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself they
are ok?

The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest are,
I suppose that answers the question really...

Lee

The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut and
inserted carefully.
I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.

BillR wrote:

Lee Blaver wrote:

Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit
connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how
long I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself they
are ok?

The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest are,
I suppose that answers the question really...

Lee


The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut and
inserted carefully.
I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.



Ok I'll put it down to a dodgy fitting and stop worrying then...

The O ring looks ok, but the fitting didn't seem as secure on the pipe
as the genuine ones, I wouldn't have used it if I hadn't been in a
hurry

Lee

--
Never summon Anything you can't banish.
-
To reply use lee.blaver and ntlworld com

Lee Blaver wrote:
BillR wrote:

Lee Blaver wrote:

Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit
connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how
long I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself
they are ok?

The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest
are, I suppose that answers the question really...

Lee


The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut
and inserted carefully.
I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.



Ok I'll put it down to a dodgy fitting and stop worrying then...

The O ring looks ok, but the fitting didn't seem as secure on the pipe
as the genuine ones, I wouldn't have used it if I hadn't been in a
hurry

Lee

Maybe the grab ring was distorted..

"BillR" wrote in message
...
Lee Blaver wrote:
BillR wrote:

Lee Blaver wrote:

Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit
connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how
long I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself
they are ok?

The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest
are, I suppose that answers the question really...

Lee


The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut
and inserted carefully.
I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.



Ok I'll put it down to a dodgy fitting and stop worrying then...

The O ring looks ok, but the fitting didn't seem as secure on the pipe
as the genuine ones, I wouldn't have used it if I hadn't been in a
hurry

Lee

Maybe the grab ring was distorted..



Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2. Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which). Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)


Just waiting for the rest .... :-/



--
John Stumbles
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
-+
Question Authority

BillR wrote:

The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut
and inserted carefully.
I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.



Ok I'll put it down to a dodgy fitting and stop worrying then...

The O ring looks ok, but the fitting didn't seem as secure on the pipe
as the genuine ones, I wouldn't have used it if I hadn't been in a
hurry

Lee


Maybe the grab ring was distorted..



Maybe, although it didn't really feel very secure in either side of the
fitting. I was careful to cut the pipe square, using the cutter and used
inserts. No sideways pressure on the joint either.

Possibly it needed a different method of fitting, or maybe it doesn't
mate very well with Speedfit pipe. I'll have a look in the shop and see
if they have any instructions, although I don't think I'll want to use
that type again...


Lee
--
Never summon Anything you can't banish.
-
To reply use lee.blaver and ntlworld com

On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"
] wrote:

Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2. Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which). Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't
wait to give them a try.

PoP

"PoP" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"
] wrote:

Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped
piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2.
Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it
went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which).
Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't
wait to give them a try.

Use copper pipe (cheap) and brass or copper pushfit fitting. A better
setup. These fittings are now the same price as plastic.


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"PoP" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"
] wrote:

Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped
piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2.
Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it
went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which).
Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't
wait to give them a try.

Marley Equator is better. Available from large B&Q Warehouse and
http://www.unifix-online.co.uk The fittings are steel encapsulated and the
inserts are steel too, so less chance of warping.

Make sure all plastic fittings are clipped either side to avoid tension on
the joint.


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Lee Blaver wrote:
BillR wrote:

The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut
and inserted carefully.
I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.



Ok I'll put it down to a dodgy fitting and stop worrying then...

The O ring looks ok, but the fitting didn't seem as secure on the
pipe as the genuine ones, I wouldn't have used it if I hadn't been
in a hurry

Lee


Maybe the grab ring was distorted..



Maybe, although it didn't really feel very secure in either side of
the fitting. I was careful to cut the pipe square, using the cutter
and used inserts. No sideways pressure on the joint either.

Possibly it needed a different method of fitting, or maybe it
doesn't mate very well with Speedfit pipe. I'll have a look in the
shop and see if they have any instructions, although I don't think
I'll want to use that type again...

The only trouble I ever had was the other way round i.e. normal comp
fittings onto speedfit pipe.
I did have the support sleeve in place but no amount of tightening would get
a good seal in 2 places.
Replaced pipe with Hep2O and it was fine.

"BillR" wrote in message
...
Lee Blaver wrote:
BillR wrote:

The integrity of the O ring is vital. So pipe must be smoothly cut
and inserted carefully.
I've not had a problem with any, even the cheaper B&Q branded ones.



Ok I'll put it down to a dodgy fitting and stop worrying then...

The O ring looks ok, but the fitting didn't seem as secure on the
pipe as the genuine ones, I wouldn't have used it if I hadn't been
in a hurry

Lee


Maybe the grab ring was distorted..



Maybe, although it didn't really feel very secure in either side of
the fitting. I was careful to cut the pipe square, using the cutter
and used inserts. No sideways pressure on the joint either.

Possibly it needed a different method of fitting, or maybe it
doesn't mate very well with Speedfit pipe. I'll have a look in the
shop and see if they have any instructions, although I don't think
I'll want to use that type again...

The only trouble I ever had was the other way round i.e. normal comp
fittings onto speedfit pipe.
I did have the support sleeve in place but no amount of tightening would
get
a good seal in 2 places.
Replaced pipe with Hep2O and it was fine.

They recommend you wrap the olive in PTFE tape.


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"Lee Blaver" wrote in message
...
Probably a rhetorical question, but I have just had a 15mm pushfit
connector start weeping after 3 days, and I was just wondering how long
I need to leave the others now before I can convince myself they are ok?

The joint that leaked wasn't a genuine JG Speedfit, but the rest are, I
suppose that answers the question really...


If you pressure tested as per spec then no leaks should happen after the
test.

For example I just pressure tested my underfloor heating system, about 2.5km
of pipes - at 2.8 bar, and then had the screed put down while under
pressure.
Working pressure will be reduced to 1 bar once screed has cured.

Yesterday was a hard day with 23 tonne of fibre reinforced screed.

Rick

"John Stumbles" ] wrote in message
...

"BillR" wrote in message Had one Speedfit (tm)
fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2.


I had one Hep20 fail on pressure test some time back, this was the because
the grab ring was reversed - I had not checked as the fittings were new out
of the bag.

The latest Hep20 have changed the design and you can't push a pipe into a
reversed ring (new type grab rings are green - old type were white)


Rick

PoP wrote in message . ..
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"
] wrote:

Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2. Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which). Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't
wait to give them a try.

To put into perspective those are the failures I've had in hundreds of
connectors. I've also had compression joints that have given me
callbacks, solder joints that ****ed water and I could never get
leak-free, threaded joints on radiators and a hot water cylinder that
I've had to drain down and re-make etc. All the fun of the game :-)

Generally I find pushfit more reliable than compression and a lot less
fiddly than either compression or solder.

"John Stumbles" wrote in message
om...
PoP wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"
] wrote:

Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped
piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2.
Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it
went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which).
Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't
wait to give them a try.

To put into perspective those are the failures I've had in hundreds of
connectors. I've also had compression joints that have given me
callbacks,

Usually the poorer quality makes. Good Conex have never given me any
problems in over 30 years. You get what you pay for.

solder joints that ****ed water

Poor craftsmanship in making the joint.

Generally I find pushfit more reliable than
compression and a lot less
fiddly than either compression or solder.

Less fiddly that is for sure, but there is a price to pay, the are expensive
and require more clipping around the joints to redce stress on the joint.
Plastic pipe is suspect,depending on installation, on hot supplies. I find
brass or copper pushfit fittings on copper pipe giving no problems at all.
Yet! Brass or copper pushfit fitting using copper pipe is the best pushfit
method, only using plastic where necessary: in garages, threading through
inaccessible floors, where cemenet or plaster may cover the pipe.

Plastic has its usages. It is no panacea. It should be viewed objectively
and only used whereit is best suited.



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John Stumbles wrote:

PoP wrote in message . ..
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"
] wrote:

Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown' shaped piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in 2. Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which). Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't
wait to give them a try.

To put into perspective those are the failures I've had in hundreds of
connectors. I've also had compression joints that have given me
callbacks, solder joints that ****ed water and I could never get
leak-free, threaded joints on radiators and a hot water cylinder that
I've had to drain down and re-make etc. All the fun of the game :-)

Generally I find pushfit more reliable than compression and a lot less
fiddly than either compression or solder.

I would agree with you. No matter how much care you take sometimes
joints just don't work especially when having to deal with existing
arrangements (the norm).

The only problems I have had with push fits are (1) trying to get them
to seal on curved pipe (2) Where they have not been pushed fully home -
this is avoidable by checking the depth of insertion.

Sometimes - very occasionally the O ring gets snagged as you put the
pipe in but there again that does not happen often and never on Kopex
sliced copper.

My choice of fittings is something like this.
Gas: Enfeed.

Water hidden: Hep2o pipe and John Guest fittings.
Water exposed dry work: Enfeed + copper
Water exposed wet pipes: Cuprofit + copper. [Note cuprofit are _very_
difficult to demount - treat as a once chance only].

Which leaves brass/chromeware to be used only for Stainless and as
otherwise needed.
I find that PTFE liquid resin is the best sealant to use on olives and
saves a great deal of trouble.
Silicone grease is also good.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
...
John Stumbles wrote:

PoP wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 18 Oct 2003 23:50:47 +0100, "John Stumbles"
] wrote:

Had one Speedfit (tm) fail where the grab ring (plastic 'crown'
shaped piece
with metal teeth in the petals of the crown) seems to have split in
2. Had
one Hep2O fail where the O ring split. Had one Speedfit weep where it
went
onto copper pipe which was a bit gritty or dented (forget which).
Discovered
that 22mm Speedfit doesn't work on 3/4" copper tube :-)

You are filling me with confidence about Speedfit fittings. I can't
wait to give them a try.

To put into perspective those are the failures I've had in hundreds of
connectors. I've also had compression joints that have given me
callbacks, solder joints that ****ed water and I could never get
leak-free, threaded joints on radiators and a hot water cylinder that
I've had to drain down and re-make etc. All the fun of the game :-)

Generally I find pushfit more reliable than compression and a lot less
fiddly than either compression or solder.

I would agree with you.

You must have been using cheap compression joints as well. I have found
over the years that good quality Conex, for example, there are "no"
problems.



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In article , IMM
writes

To put into perspective those are the failures I've had in hundreds of
connectors. I've also had compression joints that have given me
callbacks, solder joints that ****ed water and I could never get
leak-free, threaded joints on radiators and a hot water cylinder that
I've had to drain down and re-make etc. All the fun of the game :-)

Generally I find pushfit more reliable than compression and a lot less
fiddly than either compression or solder.

I would agree with you.

You must have been using cheap compression joints as well. I have found
over the years that good quality Conex, for example, there are "no"
problems.

You must be in a minority of one then John, funny how everyone else is
always out of step


--
David