"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:


It's a good idea. It would be fun to have a couple of 6" chutes for
glass
and plastic or metal or whatever, direct to their bins. Compost would be
nice - but the chute would get smelly quickly.

The heat loss would be phenomenal

Only through your ears ;-

I think we could assume there'd be hinged covers on them...

Are you having heat recovery chutes? Ina cold climate it is dumb idea.

"Chris J Dixon" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

I assume a Myson Kickspace.

If so, don't forget the roomstat for it.

yep.

Rod wrote:
Mike wrote:
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:29:39 +0000, robert
wrote:

In message , The
Medway Handyman writes
Fit the base units first, then the wall units.
Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be
easier to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching
over the base units.

It's much easier to first fit the wall unit brackets and trial fit the
wall units. Then remove them to avoid hitting your head when fitting
and working round the base units. Then tile the walls and under the
edges of the wall units having previously marked their outlines with a
wide maker pen.
The final stage is hanging on the wall units which you know will fit
and align pretty close as they have already been trail fitted.

On my own, I find it easier to fit the base units first. Then lift the
wall cabinet onto the base. And then it is a relatively short lift to
get the cabinet into it position. And fairly easy to put something
underneath to chock it in place while fixing.


A batten to rest the top units on makes life a lot easier. Then you can
fix the first one and clamp the others from the front as you go. That
way everything is guaranteed level at the front, even if gaps develop at
the back through wavy walls. Best (and I would say essential) to level
and fix the base, and worktop, before doing anything with the wall units

In message et, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:38:15 +0000, Rod wrote:

o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin.

This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion!

Must disagree. It is absolutely ordinate!

Yep and these days "bin" is not really singular but plural. If the sorting
for recyling is easy it will be done, if it's not it won't or a is a chore
rather than something that "just happens".


Yes - the requirement is for an improvement on our existing 2 bin setup,
one of which is a bright orange bucket.


--
Robert

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped
out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to
where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything
important .
1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and
dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)

Fit the base units first, then the wall units.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Agreed. Base first then wall units. Apart from anything else they are
designed to be inline.

Also, dont assume that your carpenter can fit 45 degree angled worksurfaces
whilst restricted by the wall units.(depends on your layout.)

My preferred sequence.
base units
wall unit brackets
worktops
hang wall units
tiling (gives full tiles onto worksurface and since wall units have a
'backspace' full tiles pushed up behind wall units with occasional cuts
where the cupboard sides touch the wall).

Peter

Peter wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped
out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to
where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything
important .
1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and
dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
Fit the base units first, then the wall units.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Agreed. Base first then wall units. Apart from anything else they are
designed to be inline.

Also, dont assume that your carpenter can fit 45 degree angled worksurfaces
whilst restricted by the wall units.(depends on your layout.)

My preferred sequence.
base units
wall unit brackets
worktops
hang wall units

...Add MDF sheet between worktop and cupboards to hide wires and give a
proper flat surface for tiling..


tiling (gives full tiles onto worksurface and since wall units have a
'backspace' full tiles pushed up behind wall units with occasional cuts
where the cupboard sides touch the wall).

Peter

Chris J Dixon wrote:
SNIP
I have realised that this sounds very much like a milk crate, but
I don't want to nick it, and I guess buying a single one
legitimately could be expensive.

Temporarily become a student, then you are legally obliged to steal milk
crates. Oh, and traffic cones.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Tim S wrote:
Jason coughed up some electrons that declared:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.
I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling
just this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an
open window of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this
creates means that the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It
really does work - I sanded an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust
got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Neat trick - you should put that in the Wiki

Cheers

Tim

I'll dig it out of the shed and get a picture of it in action.

- JJ

PeterC wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:11:38 +0000, Jason wrote:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.
I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just
this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window
of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that
the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded
an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Good tip! I've got a 9", 3-speed, reversible one.

That's the one - great big ugly lump of grey plastic with the separate Xpelair
controller.

-- JJ

Doctor Drivel wrote:

"robert" wrote in message
news

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen.

On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation against
the brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished plaster.
Some can be plastered direct. At least put foam insulation behind the
worktops and wall units as it is hidden there and the area behind is
quite large. It all adds up. The heat loss will be greatly reduced and
fuel bills will drop. It is easy to do at this stage and well worth
doing as the comfort conditions and fuel reduction is substantial. It
is foolish not to really.


....or, make use of the heat loss. Insulate a cupboard walls and door instead,
and leave the back of the cupboard open to the bare external wall. Instant cool
cupboard for your veg in Winter!

Well, it's worth a try.

-- JJ

Many thanks for all the suggestions to date. I will now expand my plan
with the advice where there is a consensus such as tile to the top of a
worktop and do not actually hang the wall units until the base units are
in place.

Any other suggestions based on experience gratefully received.

--
Robert

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 13:18:59 +0000, PeterC
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:11:38 +0000, Jason wrote:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space

There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.

I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just
this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window
of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that
the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded
an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Good tip! I've got a 9", 3-speed, reversible one.

Just as well you quoted enough of the previous message to make your
reply understandable


--

Doctor Drivel wrote:

"robert" wrote in message
news

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen.

On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation against
the brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished plaster.


Why strip the plaster?
Why not attach the kingspan to the exisitng plaster,
then put the vapour barrier on the inside of the kingspan?

Isnt plaster permeable?

Or would condensation occur there?

Is the removal of the plaster just to gain an inch of space?

"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation against the
brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished plaster. Some can
be plastered direct.


Is this something that can just be skimmed, or do you need to apply the
usual two coats of plaster?

In message , "george (dicegeorge)"
writes


Doctor Drivel wrote:
"robert" wrote in message
news

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen.
On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation
against the brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished
plaster.


Why strip the plaster?
Why not attach the kingspan to the exisitng plaster,
then put the vapour barrier on the inside of the kingspan?

Isnt plaster permeable?

Or would condensation occur there?

Is the removal of the plaster just to gain an inch of space?

Given that cavity wall insulation is in place I wonder if the
installation of the additional foam layer would produce a verifiable
measurable benefit with a payback that will compensate for the work
involved.

--
Robert

"george (dicegeorge)" wrote in message
...


Doctor Drivel wrote:

"robert" wrote in message
news

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen.

On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation against
the brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished plaster.

Why strip the plaster?
Why not attach the kingspan to the exisitng plaster,
then put the vapour barrier on the inside of the kingspan?

Isnt plaster permeable?

Or would condensation occur there?

Is the removal of the plaster just to gain an inch of space?

You have point. If an inch is neither here nor there in the room, go
straight onto the plaster.

"robert" wrote in message
...
In message , "george (dicegeorge)"
writes


Doctor Drivel wrote:
"robert" wrote in message
news
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen.
On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation against
the brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished plaster.


Why strip the plaster?
Why not attach the kingspan to the exisitng plaster,
then put the vapour barrier on the inside of the kingspan?

Isnt plaster permeable?

Or would condensation occur there?

Is the removal of the plaster just to gain an inch of space?

Given that cavity wall insulation is in place I wonder if the installation
of the additional foam layer would produce a verifiable measurable benefit
with a payback that will compensate for the work involved.

It probably would. It all adds up. It is not going to be an upheaval to do
it at this stage, so you may as well do it. The R factor can be calculated.
Even with cavity wall insulation it will make a significant difference to
heating the room.

"Bruce" wrote in message
news
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

On outside walls strip off plaster and install
foam insulation against the
brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some
refinished plaster. Some can
be plastered direct.

Is this something that can just be skimmed, or do you need to apply the
usual two coats of plaster?

Skimmed. Some is pre-finished and may require plaster at the joints.

I have seen the effects on an outside wall in a bathroom. It was tiled over,
so no plastering skills needed. As the tiles were no longer a cold surface
there was never running condensation either. The bathroom was deathly cold,
as many are, any longer.

It will make a significant difference to any room. Fuel is not getting any
cheaper, and it looks like only going one way.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote:
"Bruce" wrote in message
news
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

On outside walls strip off plaster and install
foam insulation against the
brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some
refinished plaster. Some can
be plastered direct.

Is this something that can just be skimmed, or do you need to apply the
usual two coats of plaster?

Skimmed. Some is pre-finished and may require plaster at the joints.


Thanks.

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:
"Bruce" wrote in message
news
"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

On outside walls strip off plaster and install
foam insulation against the
brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some
refinished plaster. Some can
be plastered direct.

Is this something that can just be skimmed, or do you need to apply the
usual two coats of plaster?

Skimmed. Some is pre-finished and may require plaster at the joints.

Thanks.

The R factor of some of it is quite high. Celotex and Kingspan and others,
have all the details. As you doing up a room installing this sort of
insulation adds value and eventually you may have far less need for heating.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote:

The R factor of some of it is quite high. Celotex and Kingspan and others,
have all the details. As you doing up a room installing this sort of
insulation adds value and eventually you may have far less need for heating.


I am refurbishing a small downstairs cloakroom and don't want to make it
more cramped than it already is. I planned to strip the plaster,
install 10mm Celotex and then dot and dab plasterboard over it.

Now I think I will use 20mm Celotex and skim it. The performance of the
20mm versus the 10mm is significantly better, plus my local builders'
merchant stocks it, whereas the 10mm would have to be ordered in
specially and costs almost the same price.