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Renovating a kitchen
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
Consideration for extractor fan?
"robert" wrote in message ... We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
"robert" wrote in message ... We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? -- a)Worktops then tiles. The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any discrepancies between it and the W.top b) If you are fitting plinths I would tile just under. Tile back to the wall if you were having units on legs without plinths. mark |
Renovating a kitchen
On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote:
1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable to open the crockery cupboard door next to it. |
Renovating a kitchen
Hi,
I'm in a similar position - I'll add my thoughts, which doesn mean their gospel, just what I'm doing: robert coughed up some electrons that declared: We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services This is the fun bit - do your costings and add a bit for contingency. 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house. Have a good hoover ready. 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles Take your time with the 1st unit - once you've found the "magic" screws, it's easy. Look for side coupling screws hidden behind door hinges. Bottom units can be more of a b*stard. Sometimes you need to get the worktop off to find all the wall fixings. Tiles usually pop off easily with a wide SDS chisel or a sharp bolster and heavy hammer. 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) Don't forget 45A cooker feed and cable outlet even if you have gas - you might change your mind later and it costs pennies to run extra conduit and/or leave a coil of cable even if not connected to the fuseboard at this stage. If you have electric, then leave a 13A socket behind the cooker going to a switched spur for the same but opposite reason. 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher Stick a 13A socket or flex outlet behind/under the sink leading to a (fused) switched spur - handy if you want to put in a waste disposal unit. 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units If you can get the type that hang on what looks like 2 little bits of DIN (top hat) steel rail, then all you have to do is get them mostly level and more or less in the right position. The cupboards hook onto these and have a little bit of adjustment in them. 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) In both cases get a long and decent spirit level or use it as an excise to buy a self levelling laser (I got mine off ebay for less than 100 quid) - handy with tiling too. 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) Your call. I'm not sure my joinery's up to this but I expect someone will be along and say it's easy with the right tools (it always is :) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect Is gas involved? If you're using a CORGI bloke, best get him/her involved soon as they may have something to say with regard to pipe runs. 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater I'd put an isolation switch for this above the worktop in the same way as you would for dishwasher and washing machines. a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? Personally, I'd go for on top if you don't mind tiling after fitting the units. If you'd rather get the tiling done and dusted first then go below the height of the worktop with a good margin for error. b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? Personally I'd tile the whole floor first - but of course you'd save some money by stopping short. If so, don't forget to tile where the open appliance areas are! Anyway, your work order seems perfectly OK. Do you have alternative facilities whilst the work is happening (even a camping stove + microwave and somewhere to wash the dishes? Seems obvious, but you'll be without facilities for a bit, so might as well try and make yourself comfortable in the meantime - reduces the pressure to rush the job under duress due to basic cooking being unbearably difficult. Sounds fun - good luck! Cheers Tim |
Renovating a kitchen
Matty F coughed up some electrons that declared:
On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote: 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable to open the crockery cupboard door next to it. Same in my rented house - bloody annoying it is too! A mate has a pretty funky corner unit - some wire basket affair does a wibble and a turn and pops out. Seems to use most of the internal space (unlike a carosel) and having neither is a pain in the doobries with a corner unit. |
Renovating a kitchen
robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) Fit the base units first, then the wall units. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
Renovating a kitchen
robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? Several bits (possibly) missing: o Is there any possible need to run a condensate drain from your CH boiler (now or future and wherever it is located)? o No mention of air extraction. o No mention of lighting (above wall units/below wall units/anywhere else). o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin. -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
Renovating a kitchen
In message , MikeS
writes Consideration for extractor fan? Thank you. I did think of it a couple of weeks ago then forgot to add it to the list. -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
In message , mark
writes a)Worktops then tiles. The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any discrepancies between it and the W.top The walls are pretty good but it may be a good idea to incorporate a tile to worktop sealing strip that will ensure a tidy join that is a bit more robust than a bead of silicone b) If you are fitting plinths I would tile just under. Tile back to the wall if you were having units on legs without plinths. Thank you - using plinths -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
Personally I prefer to tile first ( even before fixing base units ) as this
means you can fix a horizontal tiling batten to the wall just below worktop level, and, spaced correctly, it removes the need to cut the bottom row of tiles to height for long worktop lengths. It also means the second row of tiles to just under the wall units don't need to be cut at all - I stop them just a fraction below wall unit bottoms. This usually works OK for 300mm x 200mm tiles. It's also easier to place and remove the worktop several times if needed before final fixing. Just in the process of doing my 3rd kitchen refit in different properties. If you do this though, be aware, that when fitting the worktop you should slide it in place carefully. I once learned a hard lesson when I cracked the lower edge of the bottom row of some tiles whilst placing the worktop. JD -- The eMail address used in newsgroups is invalid - reply to group only for me to see. a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? |
Renovating a kitchen
In message
, Matty F writes On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote: 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable to open the crockery cupboard door next to it. Thank you. We have checked the handing of all cupboard and appliance doors to ensure that there is no (apparent) conflict. -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
In message , Tim S
writes Hi, I'm in a similar position - I'll add my thoughts, which doesn mean their gospel, just what I'm doing: robert coughed up some electrons that declared: We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services This is the fun bit - do your costings and add a bit for contingency. 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house. Have a good hoover ready. We have had a trial run - just removed a small area and discovered the need for better (valved) dustmasks and that my SDS drill is not up to the job. I will hire a decent medium weight demolition hammer for a couple of days. Thankfully the hoover is OK. 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles Take your time with the 1st unit - once you've found the "magic" screws, it's easy. Look for side coupling screws hidden behind door hinges. Bottom units can be more of a b*stard. Sometimes you need to get the worktop off to find all the wall fixings. The existing built in units were custom built by the builder 20+ years ago and were built to last, which is fine until we have to dismantle them! Tiles usually pop off easily with a wide SDS chisel or a sharp bolster and heavy hammer. Tried a thin wide scraper and hammer and it appears to be easier than I anticipated. Given the area I am thinking of getting an SDS tile chisel. 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) Don't forget 45A cooker feed and cable outlet even if you have gas - you might change your mind later and it costs pennies to run extra conduit and/or leave a coil of cable even if not connected to the fuseboard at this stage. If you have electric, then leave a 13A socket behind the cooker going to a switched spur for the same but opposite reason. All electric although we have discovered a blanked off gas supply in the wall we are removing - we may pick the supply up elsewhere and install a combined gas/electric hob. Planned for cooker control units (with additional 13A socket) for both hob and oven (different locations) and cooker cable outlets. 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher Stick a 13A socket or flex outlet behind/under the sink leading to a (fused) switched spur - handy if you want to put in a waste disposal unit. Good idea. 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units If you can get the type that hang on what looks like 2 little bits of DIN (top hat) steel rail, then all you have to do is get them mostly level and more or less in the right position. The cupboards hook onto these and have a little bit of adjustment in them. We are looking at various suppliers at the moment - Ikea, Wickes and Jewson and will look out for the rail mounting. 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) In both cases get a long and decent spirit level or use it as an excise to buy a self levelling laser (I got mine off ebay for less than 100 quid) - handy with tiling too. I have a decent one metre level but the laser could be useful. 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) Your call. I'm not sure my joinery's up to this but I expect someone will be along and say it's easy with the right tools (it always is :) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect Is gas involved? If you're using a CORGI bloke, best get him/her involved soon as they may have something to say with regard to pipe runs. 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater I'd put an isolation switch for this above the worktop in the same way as you would for dishwasher and washing machines. Have planned for these. a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? Personally, I'd go for on top if you don't mind tiling after fitting the units. If you'd rather get the tiling done and dusted first then go below the height of the worktop with a good margin for error. b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? Personally I'd tile the whole floor first - but of course you'd save some money by stopping short. If so, don't forget to tile where the open appliance areas are! Good thinking! Anyway, your work order seems perfectly OK. Do you have alternative facilities whilst the work is happening (even a camping stove + microwave and somewhere to wash the dishes? Seems obvious, but you'll be without facilities for a bit, so might as well try and make yourself comfortable in the meantime - reduces the pressure to rush the job under duress due to basic cooking being unbearably difficult. We can temporarily relocate the hob and just use a couple of rings and the microwave/grill/oven will cope with most things. Sounds fun - good luck! Fun? Hmmm Many thanks Cheers Tim -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
In message , JDT2Q
writes Personally I prefer to tile first ( even before fixing base units ) as this means you can fix a horizontal tiling batten to the wall just below worktop level, and, spaced correctly, it removes the need to cut the bottom row of tiles to height for long worktop lengths. It also means the second row of tiles to just under the wall units don't need to be cut at all - I stop them just a fraction below wall unit bottoms. This usually works OK for 300mm x 200mm tiles. It's also easier to place and remove the worktop several times if needed before final fixing. Just in the process of doing my 3rd kitchen refit in different properties. If you do this though, be aware, that when fitting the worktop you should slide it in place carefully. I once learned a hard lesson when I cracked the lower edge of the bottom row of some tiles whilst placing the worktop. Thank you - I think I will narrow the tile search down to 300 high tiles. -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes Fit the base units first, then the wall units. Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be easier to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching over the base units. -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
In message , Rod
writes Several bits (possibly) missing: o Is there any possible need to run a condensate drain from your CH boiler (now or future and wherever it is located)? Boiler is in a separate location away from the kitchen. o No mention of air extraction. An earlier response reminded me that I had forgotten to put it on my list. o No mention of lighting (above wall units/below wall units/anywhere else). Still being debated. o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin. This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion! Many thanks -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 21:35:56 +0000, robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) I used ALNO AG planner as recommended by someone on here. Its excellent including new and relocated services 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space 3. Remove existing appliances 3. before 2. if you want to use the appliances again 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect Thats the same order that I am planning to use so great minds think alike. What I havent yet clarified in my mind is how to fit the under unit lighting without calling the electrician back. Maybe 10. comes before 6. Anna 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? -- Robert |
Renovating a kitchen
robert wrote:
In message , Rod writes o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin. This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion! Must disagree. It is absolutely ordinate! -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
Renovating a kitchen
On 25 Jan, 23:36, (Anna Kettle) wrote:
What I havent yet clarified in my mind is how to fit the under unit lighting without calling the electrician back. Maybe 10. comes before 6. We've just had an extension built, (with new kitchen). What I did was get the sparky to install sockets above the high level cupboards, (they're not even visible from 'normal' standing height). The supply to these sockets is switched by the wall light switch. In fact I got him to fit two sets of switched sockets, (round pin as it happens, but I think the regs allow 13a square pin too). One set for under cabinet lights and one set for tubes which I mounted on top of the cabinets, (as per a suggestion by John Rumm on this group). Very pleased with the result, and it avoided getting the sparky to return in a totally legal manner! |
Renovating a kitchen
robert coughed up some electrons that declared:
Tried a thin wide scraper and hammer and it appears to be easier than I anticipated. Given the area I am thinking of getting an SDS tile chisel. In which case I recommend a 2kg unit - light enough to handle for long durations and still useful enough for (core) drilling for waste pipes and general purpose use. Although Aldi do cheap SDS's I wouldn't want to handle 8kg for long. Fun? Hmmm Hehe. *You've* only got a kitchen to do. I've got a whole house (arrgh!) On the plus, it's empty so there's a lot of constraints removed. Cheers Tim |
Renovating a kitchen
Tim S wrote:
... 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house. Have a good hoover ready. I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms. -- JJ |
Renovating a kitchen
Jason coughed up some electrons that declared:
Tim S wrote: ... 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house. Have a good hoover ready. I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms. -- JJ Neat trick - you should put that in the Wiki :) Cheers Tim |
Renovating a kitchen
"robert" wrote We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) Make sure the electrician is qualified to self certify in accordance with Part P! Your post suggests you are on top of things so you've probably got this covered and know that kitchen electrics represents work that is notifiable/subject to special consideration under Part P. Phil |
Renovating a kitchen
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:38:15 +0000, Rod wrote:
o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin. This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion! Must disagree. It is absolutely ordinate! Yep and these days "bin" is not really singular but plural. If the sorting for recyling is easy it will be done, if it's not it won't or a is a chore rather than something that "just happens". -- Cheers Dave. |
Renovating a kitchen
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 21:57:40 -0000, mark wrote:
a)Worktops then tiles. The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any discrepancies between it and the W.top Tiles first down to just above the work top level. Tiled to a properly leveled(*) and height adjusted batten as suggested by "JDTQ2". Tiles after and you drop one making a dinge in your nice new work top or if the work top has any texture grout and/or adhesive will get on it. Work top to tiles seal with a nice 3 or 4 mm gap to fill with silicone and the worktop snug to the wall behind the tiles will be better than a sealing strip. They look cheap and nasty to my eyes, "kitchen fitter can't use silicone and make a good job" what else can't they do properly... -- Cheers Dave. |
Renovating a kitchen
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:29:39 +0000, robert
wrote: In message , The Medway Handyman writes Fit the base units first, then the wall units. Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be easier to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching over the base units. It's much easier to first fit the wall unit brackets and trial fit the wall units. Then remove them to avoid hitting your head when fitting and working round the base units. Then tile the walls and under the edges of the wall units having previously marked their outlines with a wide maker pen. The final stage is hanging on the wall units which you know will fit and align pretty close as they have already been trail fitted. -- |
Renovating a kitchen
"robert" wrote in message ... We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important . 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space 3. Remove existing appliances 4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles 5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes 6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician) 7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing machine and dishwasher Have a hot pipe capped off to w/machine and d/washer in case you need it later. 8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary) 10. Fit new wall units 11. Fit new base units (start in corner) 12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?) 13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in 14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in 15. Fit hob and oven and connect 16. Fit plinths and plinth heater I assume a Myson Kickspace. a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on top of worktops? Top. b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths? Whole floor. Also a direct hole to outside for the kitchen hob extractor. And a general extractor fan. |
Renovating a kitchen
"Anna Kettle" wrote in message ... Thats the same order that I am planning to use so great minds think alike. What I havent yet clarified in my mind is how to fit the under unit lighting without calling the electrician back. Maybe 10. comes before 6. Have out of sight sockets adjacent, then you just plug in the worktop lights. |
Renovating a kitchen
"robert" wrote in message ... In message , mark writes a)Worktops then tiles. The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any discrepancies between it and the W.top The walls are pretty good but it may be a good idea to incorporate a tile to worktop sealing strip that will ensure a tidy join that is a bit more robust than a bead of silicone Silicone is the best using an appropriate finishing tool |
Renovating a kitchen
Dave Liquorice wrote:
Yep and these days "bin" is not really singular but plural. If the sorting for recyling is easy it will be done, if it's not it won't or a is a chore rather than something that "just happens". To side-track, personally, I've got everything apart from glass reasonably organised, but that has to wait outside until I am making a trip near a skip. I've tried various containers, but am still searching for something reasonably robust and OK in sunlight, that won't fill with water or rot, and is easy to put in the car boot. I have realised that this sounds very much like a milk crate, but I don't want to nick it, and I guess buying a single one legitimately could be expensive. Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh. |
Renovating a kitchen
On Jan 26, 12:14*pm, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote: "robert" wrote in message Direct access to the bins outside? Nobody seems to do this in the UK but if you can place your wheelie bins directly outside the kitchen wasll perhaps there is some 'chute' system that would let you dump rubbish directly into them. It would be nice to have no bins inside the kitchen. R |
Renovating a kitchen
RobertL coughed up some electrons that declared:
On Jan 26, 12:14*pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: "robert" wrote in message Direct access to the bins outside? Nobody seems to do this in the UK but if you can place your wheelie bins directly outside the kitchen wasll perhaps there is some 'chute' system that would let you dump rubbish directly into them. It would be nice to have no bins inside the kitchen. R It's a good idea. It would be fun to have a couple of 6" chutes for glass and plastic or metal or whatever, direct to their bins. Compost would be nice - but the chute would get smelly quickly. What I do now is have the recycling bins under a bins under a window and lob stuff straight into them. Cheers Tim |
Renovating a kitchen
"robert" wrote in message ... We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation against the brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished plaster. Some can be plastered direct. At least put foam insulation behind the worktops and wall units as it is hidden there and the area behind is quite large. It all adds up. The heat loss will be greatly reduced and fuel bills will drop. It is easy to do at this stage and well worth doing as the comfort conditions and fuel reduction is substantial. It is foolish not to really. |
Renovating a kitchen
"Tim S" wrote in message ... RobertL coughed up some electrons that declared: On Jan 26, 12:14 pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: "robert" wrote in message Direct access to the bins outside? Nobody seems to do this in the UK but if you can place your wheelie bins directly outside the kitchen wasll perhaps there is some 'chute' system that would let you dump rubbish directly into them. It would be nice to have no bins inside the kitchen. It's a good idea. It would be fun to have a couple of 6" chutes for glass and plastic or metal or whatever, direct to their bins. Compost would be nice - but the chute would get smelly quickly. The heat loss would phenomenal |
Renovating a kitchen
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:02:01 +0000, robert wrote:
In message , Matty F writes On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote: 1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and relocated services Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable to open the crockery cupboard door next to it. Thank you. We have checked the handing of all cupboard and appliance doors to ensure that there is no (apparent) conflict. Well worth doing - I fitted some towel rails to lower cupboard doors in a narrow, small kitchen; checked that the doors would open before fastening the rails on, then found that the 5mm clearance on opening was only about 1mm on closing! Those hinges can be very underhand. -- Peter. You don't understand Newton's Third Law of Motion? It's not rocket science, you know. |
Renovating a kitchen
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:11:38 +0000, Jason wrote:
Tim S wrote: ... 2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house. Have a good hoover ready. I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms. -- JJ Good tip! I've got a 9", 3-speed, reversible one. -- Peter. You don't understand Newton's Third Law of Motion? It's not rocket science, you know. |
Renovating a kitchen
Mike wrote:
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:29:39 +0000, robert wrote: In message , The Medway Handyman writes Fit the base units first, then the wall units. Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be easier to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching over the base units. It's much easier to first fit the wall unit brackets and trial fit the wall units. Then remove them to avoid hitting your head when fitting and working round the base units. Then tile the walls and under the edges of the wall units having previously marked their outlines with a wide maker pen. The final stage is hanging on the wall units which you know will fit and align pretty close as they have already been trail fitted. On my own, I find it easier to fit the base units first. Then lift the wall cabinet onto the base. And then it is a relatively short lift to get the cabinet into it position. And fairly easy to put something underneath to chock it in place while fixing. -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
Renovating a kitchen
Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Tim S" wrote in message ... RobertL coughed up some electrons that declared: On Jan 26, 12:14 pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: "robert" wrote in message Direct access to the bins outside? Nobody seems to do this in the UK but if you can place your wheelie bins directly outside the kitchen wasll perhaps there is some 'chute' system that would let you dump rubbish directly into them. It would be nice to have no bins inside the kitchen. It's a good idea. It would be fun to have a couple of 6" chutes for glass and plastic or metal or whatever, direct to their bins. Compost would be nice - but the chute would get smelly quickly. The heat loss would phenomenal I was thinking that - but are there any chute designs (or, more probably, chute terminal designs) that address this problem? -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
Renovating a kitchen
Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:
It's a good idea. It would be fun to have a couple of 6" chutes for glass and plastic or metal or whatever, direct to their bins. Compost would be nice - but the chute would get smelly quickly. The heat loss would phenomenal Only through your ears ;- I think we could assume there'd be hinged covers on them... |
Renovating a kitchen
Doctor Drivel wrote:
I assume a Myson Kickspace. If so, don't forget the roomstat for it. Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh. |
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