We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where
a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher
9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)
13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect
16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?
b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?

--
Robert

Consideration for extractor fan?

"robert" wrote in message
news

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a)
and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher
9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)
13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect
16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?
b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?

--
Robert

In message , MikeS
writes
Consideration for extractor fan?

Thank you. I did think of it a couple of weeks ago then forgot to add
it to the list.
--
Robert

"robert" wrote in message
news

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a)
and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher
9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)
13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect
16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?
b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?

--


a)Worktops then tiles.
The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any
discrepancies between it and the W.top

b) If you are fitting plinths I would tile just under.
Tile back to the wall if you were having units on legs without plinths.

mark

In message , mark
writes


a)Worktops then tiles.
The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any
discrepancies between it and the W.top

The walls are pretty good but it may be a good idea to incorporate a
tile to worktop sealing strip that will ensure a tidy join that is a bit
more robust than a bead of silicone

b) If you are fitting plinths I would tile just under.
Tile back to the wall if you were having units on legs without plinths.

Thank you - using plinths

--
Robert

"robert" wrote in message
...
In message , mark
writes


a)Worktops then tiles.
The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any
discrepancies between it and the W.top

The walls are pretty good but it may be a good idea to incorporate a tile
to worktop sealing strip that will ensure a tidy join that is a bit more
robust than a bead of silicone

Silicone is the best using an appropriate finishing tool

On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 21:57:40 -0000, mark wrote:

a)Worktops then tiles.
The wall is unlikely to be absolutely flat and the tiles will cover any
discrepancies between it and the W.top

Tiles first down to just above the work top level. Tiled to a properly
leveled(*) and height adjusted batten as suggested by "JDTQ2". Tiles after
and you drop one making a dinge in your nice new work top or if the work
top has any texture grout and/or adhesive will get on it.

Work top to tiles seal with a nice 3 or 4 mm gap to fill with silicone and
the worktop snug to the wall behind the tiles will be better than a
sealing strip. They look cheap and nasty to my eyes, "kitchen fitter can't
use silicone and make a good job" what else can't they do properly...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote:

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services

Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open
properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he
didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable
to open the crockery cupboard door next to it.

Matty F coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote:

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services

Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open
properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he
didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable
to open the crockery cupboard door next to it.

Same in my rented house - bloody annoying it is too!

A mate has a pretty funky corner unit - some wire basket affair does a
wibble and a turn and pops out. Seems to use most of the internal space
(unlike a carosel) and having neither is a pain in the doobries with a
corner unit.

In message
,
Matty F writes
On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote:

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services

Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open
properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he
didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable
to open the crockery cupboard door next to it.

Thank you. We have checked the handing of all cupboard and appliance
doors to ensure that there is no (apparent) conflict.

--
Robert

On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:02:01 +0000, robert wrote:

In message
,
Matty F writes
On Jan 26, 10:35 am, robert wrote:

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services

Make sure you allow for corner cupboard and appliance doors to open
properly. I had a professional designer in to design my kitchen and he
didn't point out that when the dishwasher door is opened I am unable
to open the crockery cupboard door next to it.

Thank you. We have checked the handing of all cupboard and appliance
doors to ensure that there is no (apparent) conflict.

Well worth doing - I fitted some towel rails to lower cupboard doors in a
narrow, small kitchen; checked that the doors would open before fastening
the rails on, then found that the 5mm clearance on opening was only about
1mm on closing! Those hinges can be very underhand.
--
Peter.
You don't understand Newton's Third Law of Motion?
It's not rocket science, you know.

Hi,

I'm in a similar position - I'll add my thoughts, which doesn mean their
gospel, just what I'm doing:

robert coughed up some electrons that declared:


We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where
a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services

This is the fun bit - do your costings and add a bit for contingency.

2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space

There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.

3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles

Take your time with the 1st unit - once you've found the "magic" screws,
it's easy. Look for side coupling screws hidden behind door hinges.

Bottom units can be more of a b*stard. Sometimes you need to get the worktop
off to find all the wall fixings.

Tiles usually pop off easily with a wide SDS chisel or a sharp bolster and
heavy hammer.

5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)

Don't forget 45A cooker feed and cable outlet even if you have gas - you
might change your mind later and it costs pennies to run extra conduit
and/or leave a coil of cable even if not connected to the fuseboard at this
stage.

If you have electric, then leave a 13A socket behind the cooker going to a
switched spur for the same but opposite reason.

7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher

Stick a 13A socket or flex outlet behind/under the sink leading to a (fused)
switched spur - handy if you want to put in a waste disposal unit.

9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units

If you can get the type that hang on what looks like 2 little bits of DIN
(top hat) steel rail, then all you have to do is get them mostly level and
more or less in the right position. The cupboards hook onto these and have
a little bit of adjustment in them.

11. Fit new base units (start in corner)

In both cases get a long and decent spirit level or use it as an excise to
buy a self levelling laser (I got mine off ebay for less than 100 quid) -
handy with tiling too.

12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)

Your call. I'm not sure my joinery's up to this but I expect someone will be
along and say it's easy with the right tools (it always is

13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect

Is gas involved? If you're using a CORGI bloke, best get him/her involved
soon as they may have something to say with regard to pipe runs.

16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

I'd put an isolation switch for this above the worktop in the same way as
you would for dishwasher and washing machines.

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?

Personally, I'd go for on top if you don't mind tiling after fitting the
units. If you'd rather get the tiling done and dusted first then go below
the height of the worktop with a good margin for error.

b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?


Personally I'd tile the whole floor first - but of course you'd save some
money by stopping short. If so, don't forget to tile where the open
appliance areas are!

Anyway, your work order seems perfectly OK.

Do you have alternative facilities whilst the work is happening (even a
camping stove + microwave and somewhere to wash the dishes? Seems obvious,
but you'll be without facilities for a bit, so might as well try and make
yourself comfortable in the meantime - reduces the pressure to rush the job
under duress due to basic cooking being unbearably difficult.

Sounds fun - good luck!

Cheers

Tim

Personally I prefer to tile first ( even before fixing base units ) as this
means you can fix a horizontal tiling batten to the wall just below worktop
level, and, spaced correctly, it removes the need to cut the bottom row of
tiles to height for long worktop lengths.
It also means the second row of tiles to just under the wall units don't
need to be cut at all - I stop them just a fraction below wall unit bottoms.
This usually works OK for 300mm x 200mm tiles.
It's also easier to place and remove the worktop several times if needed
before final fixing.

Just in the process of doing my 3rd kitchen refit in different properties.

If you do this though, be aware, that when fitting the worktop you should
slide it in place carefully.
I once learned a hard lesson when I cracked the lower edge of the bottom row
of some tiles whilst placing the worktop.

JD

--
The eMail address used in newsgroups is invalid - reply to group only for me
to see.

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?

In message , JDT2Q
writes
Personally I prefer to tile first ( even before fixing base units ) as this
means you can fix a horizontal tiling batten to the wall just below worktop
level, and, spaced correctly, it removes the need to cut the bottom row of
tiles to height for long worktop lengths.
It also means the second row of tiles to just under the wall units don't
need to be cut at all - I stop them just a fraction below wall unit bottoms.
This usually works OK for 300mm x 200mm tiles.
It's also easier to place and remove the worktop several times if needed
before final fixing.

Just in the process of doing my 3rd kitchen refit in different properties.

If you do this though, be aware, that when fitting the worktop you should
slide it in place carefully.
I once learned a hard lesson when I cracked the lower edge of the bottom row
of some tiles whilst placing the worktop.

Thank you - I think I will narrow the tile search down to 300 high
tiles.

--
Robert

In message , Tim S
writes
Hi,

I'm in a similar position - I'll add my thoughts, which doesn mean their
gospel, just what I'm doing:

robert coughed up some electrons that declared:


We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where
a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services

This is the fun bit - do your costings and add a bit for contingency.

2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space

There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.

We have had a trial run - just removed a small area and discovered the
need for better (valved) dustmasks and that my SDS drill is not up to
the job. I will hire a decent medium weight demolition hammer for a
couple of days. Thankfully the hoover is OK.


3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles

Take your time with the 1st unit - once you've found the "magic" screws,
it's easy. Look for side coupling screws hidden behind door hinges.

Bottom units can be more of a b*stard. Sometimes you need to get the worktop
off to find all the wall fixings.

The existing built in units were custom built by the builder 20+ years
ago and were built to last, which is fine until we have to dismantle
them!


Tiles usually pop off easily with a wide SDS chisel or a sharp bolster and
heavy hammer.

Tried a thin wide scraper and hammer and it appears to be easier than I
anticipated. Given the area I am thinking of getting an SDS tile
chisel.


5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)

Don't forget 45A cooker feed and cable outlet even if you have gas - you
might change your mind later and it costs pennies to run extra conduit
and/or leave a coil of cable even if not connected to the fuseboard at this
stage.

If you have electric, then leave a 13A socket behind the cooker going to a
switched spur for the same but opposite reason.

All electric although we have discovered a blanked off gas supply in the
wall we are removing - we may pick the supply up elsewhere and install a
combined gas/electric hob.
Planned for cooker control units (with additional 13A socket) for both
hob and oven (different locations) and cooker cable outlets.


7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher

Stick a 13A socket or flex outlet behind/under the sink leading to a (fused)
switched spur - handy if you want to put in a waste disposal unit.

Good idea.


9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units

If you can get the type that hang on what looks like 2 little bits of DIN
(top hat) steel rail, then all you have to do is get them mostly level and
more or less in the right position. The cupboards hook onto these and have
a little bit of adjustment in them.

We are looking at various suppliers at the moment - Ikea, Wickes and
Jewson and will look out for the rail mounting.


11. Fit new base units (start in corner)

In both cases get a long and decent spirit level or use it as an excise to
buy a self levelling laser (I got mine off ebay for less than 100 quid) -
handy with tiling too.

I have a decent one metre level but the laser could be useful.


12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)

Your call. I'm not sure my joinery's up to this but I expect someone will be
along and say it's easy with the right tools (it always is

13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect

Is gas involved? If you're using a CORGI bloke, best get him/her involved
soon as they may have something to say with regard to pipe runs.

16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

I'd put an isolation switch for this above the worktop in the same way as
you would for dishwasher and washing machines.

Have planned for these.


a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?

Personally, I'd go for on top if you don't mind tiling after fitting the
units. If you'd rather get the tiling done and dusted first then go below
the height of the worktop with a good margin for error.

b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?


Personally I'd tile the whole floor first - but of course you'd save some
money by stopping short. If so, don't forget to tile where the open
appliance areas are!

Good thinking!


Anyway, your work order seems perfectly OK.

Do you have alternative facilities whilst the work is happening (even a
camping stove + microwave and somewhere to wash the dishes? Seems obvious,
but you'll be without facilities for a bit, so might as well try and make
yourself comfortable in the meantime - reduces the pressure to rush the job
under duress due to basic cooking being unbearably difficult.

We can temporarily relocate the hob and just use a couple of rings and
the microwave/grill/oven will cope with most things.


Sounds fun - good luck!

Fun? Hmmm

Many thanks


Cheers

Tim

--
Robert

robert coughed up some electrons that declared:


Tried a thin wide scraper and hammer and it appears to be easier than I
anticipated. Given the area I am thinking of getting an SDS tile
chisel.

In which case I recommend a 2kg unit - light enough to handle for long
durations and still useful enough for (core) drilling for waste pipes and
general purpose use. Although Aldi do cheap SDS's I wouldn't want to handle
8kg for long.


Fun? Hmmm


Hehe. *You've* only got a kitchen to do. I've got a whole house (arrgh!)

On the plus, it's empty so there's a lot of constraints removed.

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space

There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.

I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just
this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window
of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that
the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded
an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Jason coughed up some electrons that declared:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space

There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.

I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling
just this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an
open window of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this
creates means that the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It
really does work - I sanded an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust
got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Neat trick - you should put that in the Wiki

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
Jason coughed up some electrons that declared:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.
I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling
just this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an
open window of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this
creates means that the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It
really does work - I sanded an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust
got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Neat trick - you should put that in the Wiki

Cheers

Tim

I'll dig it out of the shed and get a picture of it in action.

- JJ

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:11:38 +0000, Jason wrote:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space

There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.

I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just
this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window
of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that
the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded
an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Good tip! I've got a 9", 3-speed, reversible one.
--
Peter.
You don't understand Newton's Third Law of Motion?
It's not rocket science, you know.

PeterC wrote:
On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:11:38 +0000, Jason wrote:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.
I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just
this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window
of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that
the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded
an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Good tip! I've got a 9", 3-speed, reversible one.

That's the one - great big ugly lump of grey plastic with the separate Xpelair
controller.

-- JJ

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 13:18:59 +0000, PeterC
wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:11:38 +0000, Jason wrote:

Tim S wrote:
...
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space

There will be *much* dust at this point. It will get all round the house.
Have a good hoover ready.

I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just
this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window
of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that
the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded
an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms.

-- JJ

Good tip! I've got a 9", 3-speed, reversible one.

Just as well you quoted enough of the previous message to make your
reply understandable


--

robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped
out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to
where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything
important .
1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and
dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)

Fit the base units first, then the wall units.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes

Fit the base units first, then the wall units.

Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be easier
to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching over the
base units.

--
Robert

On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:29:39 +0000, robert
wrote:

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes

Fit the base units first, then the wall units.

Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be easier
to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching over the
base units.

It's much easier to first fit the wall unit brackets and trial fit the
wall units. Then remove them to avoid hitting your head when fitting
and working round the base units. Then tile the walls and under the
edges of the wall units having previously marked their outlines with a
wide maker pen.
The final stage is hanging on the wall units which you know will fit
and align pretty close as they have already been trail fitted.

--

Mike wrote:
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:29:39 +0000, robert
wrote:

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
Fit the base units first, then the wall units.
Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be easier
to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching over the
base units.

It's much easier to first fit the wall unit brackets and trial fit the
wall units. Then remove them to avoid hitting your head when fitting
and working round the base units. Then tile the walls and under the
edges of the wall units having previously marked their outlines with a
wide maker pen.
The final stage is hanging on the wall units which you know will fit
and align pretty close as they have already been trail fitted.

On my own, I find it easier to fit the base units first. Then lift the
wall cabinet onto the base. And then it is a relatively short lift to
get the cabinet into it position. And fairly easy to put something
underneath to chock it in place while fixing.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

Rod wrote:
Mike wrote:
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:29:39 +0000, robert
wrote:

In message , The
Medway Handyman writes
Fit the base units first, then the wall units.
Thanks - what is the reason for this - I assumed that it would be
easier to fit the wall units first as then I would not be reaching
over the base units.

It's much easier to first fit the wall unit brackets and trial fit the
wall units. Then remove them to avoid hitting your head when fitting
and working round the base units. Then tile the walls and under the
edges of the wall units having previously marked their outlines with a
wide maker pen.
The final stage is hanging on the wall units which you know will fit
and align pretty close as they have already been trail fitted.

On my own, I find it easier to fit the base units first. Then lift the
wall cabinet onto the base. And then it is a relatively short lift to
get the cabinet into it position. And fairly easy to put something
underneath to chock it in place while fixing.


A batten to rest the top units on makes life a lot easier. Then you can
fix the first one and clamp the others from the front as you go. That
way everything is guaranteed level at the front, even if gaps develop at
the back through wavy walls. Best (and I would say essential) to level
and fix the base, and worktop, before doing anything with the wall units

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped
out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to
where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything
important .
1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and
dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)

Fit the base units first, then the wall units.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Agreed. Base first then wall units. Apart from anything else they are
designed to be inline.

Also, dont assume that your carpenter can fit 45 degree angled worksurfaces
whilst restricted by the wall units.(depends on your layout.)

My preferred sequence.
base units
wall unit brackets
worktops
hang wall units
tiling (gives full tiles onto worksurface and since wall units have a
'backspace' full tiles pushed up behind wall units with occasional cuts
where the cupboard sides touch the wall).

Peter

Peter wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
robert wrote:
We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped
out the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to
where a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything
important .
1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and
dishwasher 9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
Fit the base units first, then the wall units.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Agreed. Base first then wall units. Apart from anything else they are
designed to be inline.

Also, dont assume that your carpenter can fit 45 degree angled worksurfaces
whilst restricted by the wall units.(depends on your layout.)

My preferred sequence.
base units
wall unit brackets
worktops
hang wall units

...Add MDF sheet between worktop and cupboards to hide wires and give a
proper flat surface for tiling..


tiling (gives full tiles onto worksurface and since wall units have a
'backspace' full tiles pushed up behind wall units with occasional cuts
where the cupboard sides touch the wall).

Peter

robert wrote:

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where
a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher
9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)
13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect
16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?
b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?

Several bits (possibly) missing:

o Is there any possible need to run a condensate drain from your CH
boiler (now or future and wherever it is located)?
o No mention of air extraction.
o No mention of lighting (above wall units/below wall units/anywhere else).
o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

In message , Rod
writes

Several bits (possibly) missing:

o Is there any possible need to run a condensate drain from your CH
boiler (now or future and wherever it is located)?

Boiler is in a separate location away from the kitchen.

o No mention of air extraction.

An earlier response reminded me that I had forgotten to put it on my
list.

o No mention of lighting (above wall units/below wall units/anywhere else).

Still being debated.

o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin.

This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion!

Many thanks


--
Robert

robert wrote:
In message , Rod
writes
o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin.

This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion!


Must disagree. It is absolutely ordinate!

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:38:15 +0000, Rod wrote:

o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin.

This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion!

Must disagree. It is absolutely ordinate!

Yep and these days "bin" is not really singular but plural. If the sorting
for recyling is easy it will be done, if it's not it won't or a is a chore
rather than something that "just happens".

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

Yep and these days "bin" is not really singular but plural. If the sorting
for recyling is easy it will be done, if it's not it won't or a is a chore
rather than something that "just happens".

To side-track, personally, I've got everything apart from glass
reasonably organised, but that has to wait outside until I am
making a trip near a skip.

I've tried various containers, but am still searching for
something reasonably robust and OK in sunlight, that won't fill
with water or rot, and is easy to put in the car boot.

I have realised that this sounds very much like a milk crate, but
I don't want to nick it, and I guess buying a single one
legitimately could be expensive.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

In message et, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:38:15 +0000, Rod wrote:

o Think where you are going to locate your waste bin.

This has been the subject of an inordinate amount of discussion!

Must disagree. It is absolutely ordinate!

Yep and these days "bin" is not really singular but plural. If the sorting
for recyling is easy it will be done, if it's not it won't or a is a chore
rather than something that "just happens".


Yes - the requirement is for an improvement on our existing 2 bin setup,
one of which is a bright orange bucket.


--
Robert

On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 21:35:56 +0000, robert wrote:


We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where
a) and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner)
I used ALNO AG planner as recommended by someone on here. Its
excellent

including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
3. before 2. if you want to use the appliances again

4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher
8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher
9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)
13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect

Thats the same order that I am planning to use so great minds think
alike. What I havent yet clarified in my mind is how to fit the under
unit lighting without calling the electrician back. Maybe 10. comes
before 6.

Anna
16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?
b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?

--
Robert

On 25 Jan, 23:36, (Anna Kettle) wrote:
What I havent yet clarified in my mind is how to fit the under
unit lighting without calling the electrician back. Maybe 10. comes
before 6.

We've just had an extension built, (with new kitchen). What I did was
get the sparky to install sockets above the high level cupboards,
(they're not even visible from 'normal' standing height). The supply
to these sockets is switched by the wall light switch. In fact I got
him to fit two sets of switched sockets, (round pin as it happens, but
I think the regs allow 13a square pin too). One set for under cabinet
lights and one set for tubes which I mounted on top of the cabinets,
(as per a suggestion by John Rumm on this group). Very pleased with
the result, and it avoided getting the sparky to return in a totally
legal manner!

"Anna Kettle" wrote in message
...

Thats the same order that I am planning to use so great minds think
alike. What I havent yet clarified in my mind is how to fit the under
unit lighting without calling the electrician back. Maybe 10. comes
before 6.

Have out of sight sockets adjacent, then you just plug in the worktop
lights.

"robert" wrote

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen.

6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)

Make sure the electrician is qualified to self certify in accordance with
Part P!
Your post suggests you are on top of things so you've probably got this
covered and know that kitchen electrics represents work that is
notifiable/subject to special consideration under Part P.

Phil

"robert" wrote in message
news

We are about to start work on renovating our kitchen. I have mapped out
the following steps but would be grateful for your thoughts as to where a)
and b) should fit in and whether I have missed anything important .

1. Plan layout (use Ikea online 2D/3D planner) including new and
relocated services
2. Remove plaster/block internal wall to create more space
3. Remove existing appliances
4. Remove existing fitted units and wall tiles
5. Chase walls for new and relocated wiring and boxes
6. Run new wiring to boxes (electrician)
7. Relocate h&c 15mm supplies to sink unit and cold only to washing
machine and dishwasher

Have a hot pipe capped off to w/machine and d/washer in case you need it
later.

8. Relocate drain pipework to sink unit, washing machine and dishwasher
9. Make good walls and ceiling (plasterer if necessary)
10. Fit new wall units
11. Fit new base units (start in corner)
12. Fit new worktops (kitchen fitter/joiner?)
13. Fit sink unit/tap and plumb in
14. Fit washing machine and dishwasher and plumb in
15. Fit hob and oven and connect
16. Fit plinths and plinth heater

I assume a Myson Kickspace.

a) Fix and grout wall tiles - bottom edge of tiles to sit behind or on
top of worktops?

Top.

b) Fix and grout floor tiles - whole floor or to just under plinths?

Whole floor.

Also a direct hole to outside for the kitchen hob extractor. And a general
extractor fan.