In message , Bob Eager
writes
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 22:16:49 UTC, S Viemeister
wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 20:15:26 UTC, S Viemeister
wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I'm feeling old. First pint I bought cost 1s 11d. That's just under 10p.

Just under _5_p, I would have thought.

How do you work that out? 10p was 'two shillings'...

Perhaps my brain is tired - but 11d (eleven old pence)is 1d less than a
shilling (12 old pence), and 5 New Pence was one shilling, wasn't it? So
- eleven old pence is just a bit less than 5 new pence.

If he'd said '11d' that would be true. But he said '1s 11d' - one
shilling and elevenpence.

uk-diy at it's confusing best ...

--
geoff

Rod wrote:
S Viemeister wrote:
Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 20:15:26 UTC, S Viemeister
wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I'm feeling old. First pint I bought cost 1s 11d. That's just under
10p.

Just under _5_p, I would have thought.

How do you work that out? 10p was 'two shillings'...

Perhaps my brain is tired - but 11d (eleven old pence)is 1d less than
a shilling (12 old pence), and 5 New Pence was one shilling, wasn't
it? So - eleven old pence is just a bit less than 5 new pence.

Correct. Plus the 1s - makes 5p plus just a bit less than 5 new pence -
which is almost 10p. N'est pas?

(Are your eyes reading it as 'First pint I bought cost is 11d."? Not
good grammar bit a quick scan read could skip past that.)

Yep. Brain functioning, _eyes_ tired!

In article ,
S Viemeister wrote:
I'm feeling old. First pint I bought cost 1s 11d. That's just under
10p.

Just under _5_p, I would have thought.

No - 1s = 5p. 20s to the pound.

--
*Ambition is a poor excuse for not having enough sense to be lazy *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:22 +0000, Ian White wrote:

It isn't reasonable to expect them to know about the right kinds of
solder for DIY electronic construction or repair, as it's well outside
their core business.

So they don't have a multicore business then?



.... I'll get me coat ...







--
John Stumbles

Thank God I'm an atheist

On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 01:03:29 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:22 +0000, Ian White wrote:

It isn't reasonable to expect them to know about the right kinds of
solder for DIY electronic construction or repair, as it's well outside
their core business.

So they don't have a multicore business then?

Their business is currently in a state of flux.


Is my coat there?


--
Regards, Paul Herber, Sandrila Ltd.
http://www.sandrila.co.uk/ http://www.pherber.com/

Alan wrote:

Youngster too - I used to pay 1/5d (ca. 7p) a pint when I (legally)
started drinking...

http://www.amac.f2s.com/Beer_price/
In the days when breweries printed the list rather than a chalk board
which can be changed every 5 minutes

An interesting exercise is to try and translate that into today's money.
Take the "old strong" at 2/4 per pint. If you try the calculator at:

http://www.measuringworth.com/

it translates to:

£1.38 using the retail price index
£1.41 using the GDP deflator
£2.64 using the average earnings
£3.13 using the per capita GDP
£3.44 using the share of GDP

(obviously those don't take into account the changes in duty)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Paul Herber wrote:
On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 01:03:29 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:22 +0000, Ian White wrote:

It isn't reasonable to expect them to know about the right kinds of
solder for DIY electronic construction or repair, as it's well outside
their core business.

So they don't have a multicore business then?

Their business is currently in a state of flux.


I knew you couldn't resist. Some people are so easily lead.


--
Ian White

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Alan wrote:

Youngster too - I used to pay 1/5d (ca. 7p) a pint when I (legally)
started drinking...

http://www.amac.f2s.com/Beer_price/
In the days when breweries printed the list rather than a chalk board
which can be changed every 5 minutes

An interesting exercise is to try and translate that into today's money.
Take the "old strong" at 2/4 per pint. If you try the calculator at:

http://www.measuringworth.com/

it translates to:

£1.38 using the retail price index
£1.41 using the GDP deflator
£2.64 using the average earnings
£3.13 using the per capita GDP
£3.44 using the share of GDP

(obviously those don't take into account the changes in duty)

It's quite interesting to compare 'headline' prices over the years. Of
course it depends on where you set the benchmark. I tend to make that
roughly when I left school and started having to pay for stuff myself. And
I suppose more adult things.

Here are some rounded up to a convenient amount and converted to decimal.

A reasonable working man's wage - 10 quid a week.
Beer 10p
Fags 25p
Petrol 23p

The relationship between those commodities is still much the same - but
have near halved compared to that 'reasonable' wage.

What has changed dramatically is the costs of consumer goods. At about
that time my parents paid about 100 quid for the 'top of the range' TV set
from Bush. Now that same set would be perhaps twice that weekly wage
rather than 10 times.

--
*Most people have more than the average number of legs*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Ian White wrote:
Paul Herber wrote:
On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 01:03:29 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:22 +0000, Ian White wrote:

It isn't reasonable to expect them to know about the right kinds of
solder for DIY electronic construction or repair, as it's well outside
their core business.

So they don't have a multicore business then?

Their business is currently in a state of flux.


I knew you couldn't resist. Some people are so easily lead.

At least the various quips flow nicely.
Plenty of dry humour.

--
*A 'jiffy' is an actual unit of time for 1/100th of a second.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 17:45:57 +0000, Kevin
wrote:

Adrian C wrote:
Kevin wrote:
wrote:
as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w
decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W

5W and 200W are both strange examples to use in the context of general
electronics work.

is was a reply to "any soldering iron will work it does not have to be
decent", it a bit like paint brushes or air brushes, one soldering iron
is not a 1 stop for all jobs shop

You really need at least three.

One about 50W temperature controlled with a pointed tip for electronic
work, one about 50W with plenty of mass and a chisel tip for car
alternators and starter motors and one about 200W for chunky earth
braids.

--

In article ,
"Brian Reay" writes:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper" Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is illegal.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.

If it's a good iron plated copper bit, steel wool would be a
bad idea. Heating it up and wiping it on a moist sponge, tinning
it, and wiping it again is all that's normally required.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Brian Reay" writes:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using
lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper" Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is illegal.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.

If it's a good iron plated copper bit, steel wool would be a
bad idea. Heating it up and wiping it on a moist sponge, tinning
it, and wiping it again is all that's normally required.

In the past I would have agreed with that. However, later bits seem to need
something a little more aggressive.

--
73
Brian, G8OSN
www.g8osn.org.uk

Now your amateur licence is free, why not send at least £15 per year to
support the
Radio Communications Foundation or STELAR?

In message . net, Paul
Herber writes
On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 01:03:29 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:22 +0000, Ian White wrote:

It isn't reasonable to expect them to know about the right kinds of
solder for DIY electronic construction or repair, as it's well outside
their core business.

So they don't have a multicore business then?

Their business is currently in a state of flux.


Is my coat there?


s'OK - you can follow my lead


--
geoff

On Nov 3, 10:58*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
* *Ian White wrote:

Paul Herber wrote:
On Mon, 03 Nov 2008 01:03:29 GMT, John Stumbles
wrote:

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 19:59:22 +0000, Ian White wrote:

It isn't reasonable to expect them to know about the right kinds of
solder for DIY electronic construction or repair, as it's well outside
their core business.

So they don't have a multicore business then?

Their business is currently in a state of flux.

I knew you couldn't resist. Some people are so easily lead.

At least the various quips flow nicely.
Plenty of dry humour.

And that's just the tip of it.


NT

On Nov 2, 5:45*pm, Kevin wrote:
Adrian C wrote:
Kevin wrote:
wrote:
as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w
decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W

5W and 200W are both strange examples to use in the context of general
electronics work.

is was a reply to "any soldering iron will work it does not have to be
decent", it a bit like paint brushes or air brushes, one soldering iron
is not a 1 stop for all jobs shop

no-one said any iron will work, and I doubt anyone would. Read what's
written.


NT

In message , Brian Reay
writes



"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
. ..
In article ,
"Brian Reay" writes:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using
lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper" Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is illegal.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.

If it's a good iron plated copper bit, steel wool would be a
bad idea. Heating it up and wiping it on a moist sponge, tinning
it, and wiping it again is all that's normally required.

In the past I would have agreed with that. However, later bits seem to need
something a little more aggressive.

angle grinder


--
geoff

Brian Reay wrote:
"Robin" .@. wrote in message
...
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I try
to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper" Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is illegal.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.


I use this little lot for most jobs
http://uk.farnell.com/cooper-tools-w...-80w/dp/977974


You may find the plateing has gone on your tip.

On Mon, 3 Nov 2008 22:42:08 +0000, geoff wrote:

In message , Brian Reay
writes



"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
.. .
In article ,
"Brian Reay" writes:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using
lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper" Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is illegal.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.

If it's a good iron plated copper bit, steel wool would be a
bad idea. Heating it up and wiping it on a moist sponge, tinning
it, and wiping it again is all that's normally required.

In the past I would have agreed with that. However, later bits seem to need
something a little more aggressive.

angle grinder

Power hacksaw.

--
Frank Erskine

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Mon, 3 Nov 2008 22:42:08 +0000, geoff wrote:

In message , Brian Reay
writes



"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
. ..
In article ,
"Brian Reay" writes:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using
lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper" Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is illegal.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.

If it's a good iron plated copper bit, steel wool would be a
bad idea. Heating it up and wiping it on a moist sponge, tinning
it, and wiping it again is all that's normally required.

In the past I would have agreed with that. However, later bits seem to need
something a little more aggressive.

angle grinder

Power hacksaw.

Ah - the Drivel method

--
geoff

In article ,
geoff wrote:
Power hacksaw.

Ah - the Drivel method

But a power hacksaw usually cuts straight...

--
*If God had wanted me to touch my toes, he would have put them on my knees

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Nov 3, 8:32*pm, "Brian Reay" wrote:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using
lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper" Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is illegal.

It's also a myth that lead free is any more difficult to work with.
I've used nothing else since before the RoHS came into force. It needs
a higher temperature and the joints don't look as good, that's all.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.

If it's a good iron plated copper bit, steel wool would be a
bad idea. Heating it up and wiping it on a moist sponge, tinning
it, and wiping it again is all that's normally required.

In the past I would have agreed with that. However, later bits seem to need
something a little more aggressive.

Agreed, modern Antex bits (maybe something to do with the extra
caoting to resist the more aggressive fluxes used with lead free
solder) can be a real bugger to tin when new. You have to catch the
just right, otherwise no end of wiping on a sponge will help. A pot of
tip cleaner is useful.

MBQ

On Nov 2, 8:54*am, Robin .@. wrote:
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

Try a new tip and be sure to tin it properly (easier said than done
with some).

MBQ

On Nov 2, 6:44*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
* *Ian White wrote:

Leaded solder is easily available from a wide variety of electronics
suppliers in reasonably small quantities (for example, try
www.rapidelectronics.co.uk). It's just Maplin that is out of step.

As I said before companies like Rapid have a minimum order value

Rapid don't, and never have. Farnell have been known to waive theirs
if you ask nicely. You may be charged a "handling charge" but there's
no minimum order value for the goods.

MBQ

In article
,
Man at B&Q wrote:
On Nov 2, 6:44 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
Ian White wrote:

Leaded solder is easily available from a wide variety of electronics
suppliers in reasonably small quantities (for example, try
www.rapidelectronics.co.uk). It's just Maplin that is out of step.

As I said before companies like Rapid have a minimum order value

Rapid don't, and never have. Farnell have been known to waive theirs
if you ask nicely. You may be charged a "handling charge" but there's
no minimum order value for the goods.

Yes - but that's effectively the same thing. Rapid charge a lot for P&P
on small value items. Like 5.50 + vat for a reel of solder.

I also doubt Farnell would waive their charge for a new customer.

--
*Procrastination is the art of keeping up with yesterday.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Mon, 3 Nov 2008 22:42:08 +0000, geoff wrote:

In message , Brian Reay
writes



"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Brian Reay" writes:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you
using
lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper"
Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is
illegal.

Also, clean the bit before trying to "tin" it- the Antex bits tend to
go
black when new. Get is hot and rub with steel wool then tin it or you
can
get abrasive fluxed pads for the purpose.

If it's a good iron plated copper bit, steel wool would be a
bad idea. Heating it up and wiping it on a moist sponge, tinning
it, and wiping it again is all that's normally required.

In the past I would have agreed with that. However, later bits seem to
need
something a little more aggressive.

angle grinder

Power hacksaw.

Ah - the Drivel method

Maxie, you are so fabulous.

Man at B&Q wrote:

Agreed, modern Antex bits (maybe something to do with the extra
caoting to resist the more aggressive fluxes used with lead free
solder) can be a real bugger to tin when new. You have to catch the
just right, otherwise no end of wiping on a sponge will help. A pot of
tip cleaner is useful.

I admit to not having tried this technique with lead free solder (I
still use traditional solder), but usually I tin a new bit the first
time by dipping the part I want tinned into a plumbers paste flux when
the bit is cold (i.e. before it has ever been heated). Then switch on,
and keep test applying flux cored solder until it melts. It should then
wet nicely. I usually cover in solder and leave it to stew for a few
mins before wiping on a damp sponge. After that - ready to solder.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Tue, 04 Nov 2008 21:01:50 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

I admit to not having tried this technique with lead free solder (I
still use traditional solder), but usually I tin a new bit the first
time by dipping the part I want tinned into a plumbers paste flux

Fluxite?

I have a brand new tin of Fluxite, as well as a part-used one.
Can you still buy it?

ISTR some leccy board guy using BICC (?) flux, sort of purple in
colour, which had a most wonderful smell when heated :-)

--
Frank Erskine

Frank Erskine wrote:

I have a brand new tin of Fluxite, as well as a part-used one.

I think mine has lost its lid and collected all sorts of chaff.

Can you still buy it?

Yes

http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productin...Fluxite-FLU100

But I seem to get on better with this stuff for plumbing now
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/32957/...a-Co-Flux-475g

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 08:54:48 +0000, Robin wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

FWIW LiDL in Reading currently have a 30W iron with a quite neat small
pointed tip, and a stand with a springy holder, all for a fiver!

The stand even has a pair of fold-up plastic arms with croc clips on
ball-joints for holding bits while you solder them.

Dunno how good the iron is but I figured I was buying a stand with a free
iron thrown in :-)

--
John Stumbles

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you.

"Man at B&Q" wrote in message
...
On Nov 3, 8:32 pm, "Brian Reay" wrote:
An Antex 16W should be man enough. As someone has asked, are you using
lead
free solder? It really is a pain, see if you can get some "proper"
Leaded
solder. It is still available for sale- it is a myth that it is
illegal.

}It's also a myth that lead free is any more difficult to work with.

I work in a university electronics lab where the students need to solder,
an experienced solderer can adapt, it takes longer to heat the joint up so
you need
to be more patient. we also found that our Antex 18W irons just weren't up
to
it so we started replacing them with the 25W versions, I think this is
because the lead free tips
are physically thicker so take more heat. Another point was that you
shouldn't mix solders
so that made it difficult to reuse or work on an older project.
Although most information is for production processes.
It also seemed that the fumes given off were worse than those with leaded
solder.
After a few months we went back to leaded solder, for general electronics
work.
I did find that it took longer to get a good joint with lead-free solder,
but I'm guessing
with practice it'd be fine, as for studetns well it was just to difficult as
the tendancy was
to leave the iron on the joint/component too long.
I checked on the law/regulations and I think it's only manufactures of goods
that need to go
over to lead-free presently.

}I've used nothing else since before the RoHS came into force. It needs
}a higher temperature and the joints don't look as good, that's all.

Yes a good lead-free joint looks very much like a bad 'dry joint' with
leaded solder.

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 18:00:07 GMT, wrote:

On 4 Nov,
Frank Erskine wrote:


ISTR some leccy board guy using BICC (?) flux, sort of purple in
colour, which had a most wonderful smell when heated :-)

Was that coraline flux? Definitely a good pong!

I think you're right. Ta!

--
Frank Erskine

The message
from "Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS contains these words:



( Second is my AVO-8, but I don't use that much. I keep it as a museum
piece. My work-a-day meter is my Fluke 87. )

Good AVOs go for about £20, with case, on ebay.

The message
from "Man at B&Q" contains these words:

On Nov 2, 8:54*am, Robin .@. wrote:
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

Try a new tip and be sure to tin it properly (easier said than done
with some).

I must say that the American irons which have screw-in elements and
screw in tips are very pleasant to use and extremely versatile. The one
handle can be used for a vast number of different purposes when fitted
with an element and a tip to suit the job. Mine are all over thirty
years old and just great. Far better than an Antex, Solon, Weller or
whatever. For cheap and not-at-all nasty there are always our friends
at Lidl -- and at least they honour the guarantee on what they sell. 3
Year warranty on a soldering iron? Not bad.

The message
from Ian White contains these words:

Fair point (and thanks for helping me notice that Rapid have increased
their small order charge into the more normal £4-5 band).

But there are still small firms that supply small quantities with
reasonable P&P charges. For example, see http://www.sycomcomp.co.uk and
select Hardware from the drop-down list.

SOLDER 5 CORE FLUX 60% TIN, 40% LEAD
18SWG Approx. 5 mtrs £1.50
22SWG Approx. 10 mtrs £1.50

OK, that's expensive per metre, but such very small quantities always
are. Alternatively:

500g reels
18SWG Approx. 60 mtrs £8.50
20SWG Approx. 106 mtrs £8.75
22SWG Approx. 170 mtrs £9.25

P&P £1.00 on the small quantity, £2.00 on a reel.

OK, very reasonable P and P. However, for those who have an account, RS
Components stuff ordered online is still, AFAIK, free P and P. And they
are also (off topic) one of the few places where you can get WD40 in 5
litre containers AND get it delivered at no extra cost. As a "hazardous
substance" many carriers won't touch it with a barge pole.

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I must say that the American irons which have screw-in elements and
screw in tips are very pleasant to use and extremely versatile. The one
handle can be used for a vast number of different purposes when fitted
with an element and a tip to suit the job. Mine are all over thirty
years old and just great. Far better than an Antex, Solon, Weller or
whatever.

Fine for an occasional user I'm sure - but if you're using one all day
ergonomics are more important than versatility. Which to me means light
weight and performance. A bit like attachments for a power drill versus
separate units. Irons are so cheap I can't see the point in having what
you describe, except to carry around in the toolbox. And for that sort of
emergency thing I prefer a gas one anyway.

--
*If they arrest the Energizer Bunny, would they charge it with battery? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The message
from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I must say that the American irons which have screw-in elements and
screw in tips are very pleasant to use and extremely versatile. The one
handle can be used for a vast number of different purposes when fitted
with an element and a tip to suit the job. Mine are all over thirty
years old and just great. Far better than an Antex, Solon, Weller or
whatever.

Fine for an occasional user I'm sure - but if you're using one all day
ergonomics are more important than versatility. Which to me means light
weight and performance. A bit like attachments for a power drill versus
separate units. Irons are so cheap I can't see the point in having what
you describe, except to carry around in the toolbox. And for that sort of
emergency thing I prefer a gas one anyway.

It comes down to what suits you.

I've a couple of old Henley Solon 25W irons -- not my first choice for
anything.

I've a few American handles/elements/tips -- I like them very much and
they're pretty light in use.

I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended
to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I've a miscellany of other irons and guns, including Lidl ones which are fine.

I agree re power drill attachments. I wasn't suggesting that one should
constantly be changing iron parts -- though it takes less time to change
an element or bit than to put a new blade in a jigsaw with a
quick-change mechanism. It's more that such a setup provides a very
easy way of tailoring an iron to suit your needs.

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended
to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I'd say you were either using the wrong bit for the element or the spring
clip wasn't positioned properly. It goes towards the top of the split
(nearest the handle)

I've never had one come loose despite having used them for many many years.

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 19:51:30 UTC, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended
to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I'd say you were either using the wrong bit for the element or the spring
clip wasn't positioned properly. It goes towards the top of the split
(nearest the handle)

I've never had one come loose despite having used them for many many years.

Same here. Biggest problem is moving the clip, if it's been on a while.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 19:51:30 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended
to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I'd say you were either using the wrong bit for the element or the spring
clip wasn't positioned properly. It goes towards the top of the split
(nearest the handle)

I've never had one come loose despite having used them for many many years.

I've had a few Anthrax irons, but have never been impressed - the
elements seemed prone to early failure.
But the bits were easy to change.

--
Frank Erskine

In article ,
Frank Erskine wrote:
On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 19:51:30 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended
to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I'd say you were either using the wrong bit for the element or the
spring clip wasn't positioned properly. It goes towards the top of the
split (nearest the handle)

I've never had one come loose despite having used them for many many
years.

I've had a few Anthrax irons, but have never been impressed - the
elements seemed prone to early failure.

And you need a soldering iron to change them...

However I use low voltage ones and the life is fine - they're designed for
pro use.

But the bits were easy to change.

--
*The older you get, the better you realize you were.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.