To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 21:22:04 -0700, Andrew Sarangan
wrote:

To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall),

After reading ahead, I come back here and ask, So you mean you want to
go only half-way through the basement wall, is that it?

run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level.

Yes, it's closed off at floor level, unless you have some very strange
construction.

I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

Why not just go throught the ceiling of the basement and the floor
above it? What room on the first floor are you going into. What is
the floor made of. How many cabinets does it have?

Unless it's an old house with balloon framing, you will have to drill
through floor plates


"Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message
oups.com...
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

In article .com, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above.
[...]
Any thoughts?

Yep. You're nuts. That's waaaaaay too much work to solve a basically
non-existent problem. Put the computer on the floor under the table, and put
some nice music on the stereo.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above.
[...]
Any thoughts?

Yep. You're nuts. That's waaaaaay too much work to solve a basically
non-existent problem. Put the computer on the floor under the table, and put
some nice music on the stereo.

Dittos. Plus what do you do when you have to access a disk or CD/DVD
drive
Frank

On Jul 19, 12:22 am, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above.

What noise and heat?

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"

2. You're never going to use the CD/DVD reader/burner ??

3. Plugging in any USB device, like a digital camera
will be a pain in the butt !


Modern ( DELL ) PC's are relatively quiet.
and even the heat is minimal.........

????



On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 21:22:04 -0700, Andrew Sarangan
wrote:

To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

rj

Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

Earplugs. Fifty cents.

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:24:15 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"


There's likely a setting in the BIOS to make it come on automatically
when power is applied. Then you can use a remote power switch. I have
used such a setup for a couple of years.

You may want to leave the computer on all the time, but a remote power
switch is still a good ides for the times there's no way to get it to
work without rebooting.

2. You're never going to use the CD/DVD reader/burner ??


There are external CD/DVD drives. Also see below.

3. Plugging in any USB device, like a digital camera
will be a pain in the butt !


How are you connecting your keyboard and mouse? If you're using USB,
you already have the cable you need to have a hub in the room above.
You can plug things in there, including that external CD/DVD drive.

I prefer USB anyway (and all modern systems should support it). The
connectors are more reliable.


Modern ( DELL ) PC's are relatively quiet.
and even the heat is minimal.........


If heat is still a problem, would a good fan help?

????



On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 21:22:04 -0700, Andrew Sarangan
wrote:

To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

rj
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word
in the Gospels in praise of intelligence."
--Bertrand Russell

yeah you need access to computer, another room will be a nightmare and
many cables have max length rules...... longer wouldnt work.

shop for a quiet computer. i bought used vectras for this reason,
larger box yes but naturally cooled, just the tiny fan on the processor

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:24:15 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"

If you leave the thing sleeping or whatever (not Standby. Deader than
standby) you can set it to start up from the keyboard. I leave mine
deader, because it's plugged into a UPS. Even then I could set it to
go on every time the UPS goes on, or everytime it is plugged in.

2. You're never going to use the CD/DVD reader/burner ??

When I suggested a hole in the floor, I forgot about that. My mind
wandered to when I wanted to put the printer in the next room, not the
computer. I don't print much and I'd like more space on my desk.
(The only thing standing in my way is that I don't have much space in
the next room either.)

3. Plugging in any USB device, like a digital camera
will be a pain in the butt !

I forgot about that too, even though I just got a digital camera (10
dollars for one from 2004)

Modern ( DELL ) PC's are relatively quiet.
and even the heat is minimal.........

I've been using the AC for the last 3 days, and I've been turning the
computer off a lot more.

????

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 16:42:17 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:24:15 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"


There's likely a setting in the BIOS to make it come on automatically
when power is applied. Then you can use a remote power switch. I have
used such a setup for a couple of years.

You may want to leave the computer on all the time, but a remote power
switch is still a good ides for the times there's no way to get it to
work without rebooting.

How come Compaqs and some others don't have Reset buttons?

2. You're never going to use the CD/DVD reader/burner ??


There are external CD/DVD drives. Also see below.

He woudl have to run a cable for that though and didnt' mention it.

3. Plugging in any USB device, like a digital camera
will be a pain in the butt !


How are you connecting your keyboard and mouse? If you're using USB,
you already have the cable you need to have a hub in the room above.

Good point. I don't have one, but I'm still in the 90's with win98
even.

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 21:16:24 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 16:42:17 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:24:15 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"


There's likely a setting in the BIOS to make it come on automatically
when power is applied. Then you can use a remote power switch. I have
used such a setup for a couple of years.

You may want to leave the computer on all the time, but a remote power
switch is still a good ides for the times there's no way to get it to
work without rebooting.

How come Compaqs and some others don't have Reset buttons?

I suppose they're making the thing cheaper to save a little money.

Anyway, is this supposed to be relevant to power switches?


2. You're never going to use the CD/DVD reader/burner ??


There are external CD/DVD drives. Also see below.

He woudl have to run a cable for that though and didnt' mention it.

It could be the SAME cable as for the keyboard/mouse. See my next
reply.


3. Plugging in any USB device, like a digital camera
will be a pain in the butt !


How are you connecting your keyboard and mouse? If you're using USB,
you already have the cable you need to have a hub in the room above.

Good point. I don't have one, but I'm still in the 90's with win98
even.

Win98 supports USB, so the solution I mentioned should work (although
probably not as well as ME or later). However, a computer that was new
at the time Win98 was new may lack BIOS support for USB (an
inconvenience) as well as coming on with application of power. Check
that. I seemed to remember that only some systems of that age had the
feature (most do now).
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word
in the Gospels in praise of intelligence."
--Bertrand Russell

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:57:47 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:24:15 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"

If you leave the thing sleeping or whatever (not Standby. Deader than
standby) you can set it to start up from the keyboard. I leave mine
deader, because it's plugged into a UPS. Even then I could set it to
go on every time the UPS goes on, or everytime it is plugged in.

2. You're never going to use the CD/DVD reader/burner ??

When I suggested a hole in the floor, I forgot about that. My mind
wandered to when I wanted to put the printer in the next room, not the
computer. I don't print much and I'd like more space on my desk.
(The only thing standing in my way is that I don't have much space in
the next room either.)

3. Plugging in any USB device, like a digital camera
will be a pain in the butt !

I forgot about that too, even though I just got a digital camera (10
dollars for one from 2004)

I seldom plug my camera into a computer, but use a memory card reader.
That's a USB device too, and would work fine with the same hub as the
keyboard & mouse.


Modern ( DELL ) PC's are relatively quiet.
and even the heat is minimal.........

I've been using the AC for the last 3 days, and I've been turning the
computer off a lot more.

????
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word
in the Gospels in praise of intelligence."
--Bertrand Russell

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:43:23 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:


How are you connecting your keyboard and mouse? If you're using USB,
you already have the cable you need to have a hub in the room above.

Good point. I don't have one, but I'm still in the 90's with win98
even.

Win98 supports USB, so the solution I mentioned should work (although

Yeah, I have USB and I have a USB camera. I'm just not up to having a
hub yet.

Well, my friend gave me two of them, but I haven't used one yet. They
have quite short cords, too short to use in the basmeent. Maybe
that's why he gave them to me. I think he got one of them for free
somewhere.

probably not as well as ME or later). However, a computer that was new
at the time Win98 was new may lack BIOS support for USB (an
inconvenience) as well as coming on with application of power. Check

I think the camera came with what all I needed, but earlier, I had to
get a later-writen driver for a memory stick. There are good
newsgroups for that.

that. I seemed to remember that only some systems of that age had the
feature (most do now).
--
Mark Lloyd

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:45:37 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:


I forgot about that too, even though I just got a digital camera (10
dollars for one from 2004)

Or 2003 or 2.

I seldom plug my camera into a computer, but use a memory card reader.
That's a USB device too, and would work fine with the same hub as the
keyboard & mouse.

My camera doesn't have unpluggable memory, only a USB port. But I got
it mostly to post pictures for this newsgroup to look at, or ads on
Ebay. So it's enough for me.

Hey, whaddaya expect for 10 dollars?

On Jul 19, 12:22 am, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

Just a thought. You should call a good computer shop and inquire
about the acceptable length for cables. I think USB has a max length
of 12' or so. So you might be out of luck in doing the project with a
USB cable. I have no idea what the max length of a cable for your
screen is.

Unless noise is really, really critical for some reason, I think the
cheapest/best solution would be to replace your fans with quieter ones
-- an maybe replace your hard drives, too.

wrote:
yeah you need access to computer, another room will be a nightmare and
many cables have max length rules...... longer wouldnt work.

shop for a quiet computer. i bought used vectras for this reason,
larger box yes but naturally cooled, just the tiny fan on the processor

My new Gw is the quietest I've ever owned. Even in old days of noisier
computers, cannot imagine putting cpu in another room.
Frank

"Frank" frankdotlogullo@comcastperiodnet wrote in message
. ..
wrote:
yeah you need access to computer, another room will be a nightmare and
many cables have max length rules...... longer wouldnt work.

shop for a quiet computer. i bought used vectras for this reason,
larger box yes but naturally cooled, just the tiny fan on the processor

My new Gw is the quietest I've ever owned. Even in old days of noisier
computers, cannot imagine putting cpu in another room.

This is true... Computers today do NOT need to be noisy.

Use a PSU with a single 120mm fan. a CPU heatsink with a slow, large fan,
and add a front intake fan (again 120mm) and you should be good. If you've
no room for a fan in front, add a 120mm exhaust fan in the rear. Finally, if
you have a video card with a tiny, noisy fan, replace it with one of the
many quieter sink/fan combinations.

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 21:36:28 -0700, Pat
wrote:

On Jul 19, 12:22 am, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

Just a thought. You should call a good computer shop and inquire
about the acceptable length for cables. I think USB has a max length
of 12' or so.

I always heard 5 meters (16'), and you can connect 5 hubs together to
get 25 meters (80 feet).

So you might be out of luck in doing the project with a
USB cable. I have no idea what the max length of a cable for your
screen is.


I have a 100-foot cable, but the picture is visibly degraded.

Unless noise is really, really critical for some reason, I think the
cheapest/best solution would be to replace your fans with quieter ones
-- an maybe replace your hard drives, too.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word
in the Gospels in praise of intelligence."
--Bertrand Russell

I bought a 15' extension monitor cable (the old kind) , and there were
problems with the quality of the video. I had to buy a better cable and
everything was fine. It had the 1" diameter by 1.5" long cylinders embedded
in the cable, one on each end. You can actually get the snap on cylinders
separately. Also make sure not directly beside the hydro outside.

"Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message
oups.com...
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?





----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

In article .com,
says...
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

Buy a quiet machine. If you need a monster machine, buy a laptop to
use as a "terminal" (with removable disks) and use VNC to "connect"
the the "server" in the basement.

--
Keith

In article , NOPSAMmm2005
@bigfoot.com says...
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:43:23 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:


How are you connecting your keyboard and mouse? If you're using USB,
you already have the cable you need to have a hub in the room above.

Good point. I don't have one, but I'm still in the 90's with win98
even.

Win98 supports USB, so the solution I mentioned should work (although

Isn't USB limited to 10'? That's not much if you're running between
floors and to several devices.

Yeah, I have USB and I have a USB camera. I'm just not up to having a
hub yet.

They're cheap. I have a couple of nice seven port hubs, the laptop
has three ports, the dock five, and monitor four (and another four
port in the drawer). ;-)

Well, my friend gave me two of them, but I haven't used one yet. They
have quite short cords, too short to use in the basmeent. Maybe
that's why he gave them to me. I think he got one of them for free
somewhere.

There is a maximum length. IMO you'll run into this if you go
between floors.

snip

--
Keith

On Jul 19, 12:22 am, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

As other have have said, cable length might be an issue, especially
for the monitor. My computer lives in Grandma's antique desk and to
minimize damage, I didn't want to drill holes for the cables. I was
able to remove a bottom panel but then I needed extensions for my non-
usb mouse, non-usb keyboard and monitor. The extension cables for the
mouse and keyboard were not a problem and I believe they come in some
decent lengths.

The monitor cable was a different story. I bought a "standard" monitor
extension cord at Best Buy and my video quality sucked. I did a little
internet research and found that I needed to use a shielded coaxial
extension cable in order to maintain good quality. Just as an example,
this site sells them for $13 - $80, depending on the length you need.

http://www.vpi.us/cable-vga.html

All this said, I think sticking the computer in a remote location may
not be the best idea, for all the reasons so many others have
mentioned.

On Jul 19, 5:42 pm, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:24:15 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"

There's likely a setting in the BIOS to make it come on automatically
when power is applied. Then you can use a remote power switch. I have
used such a setup for a couple of years.

I use to use this setting because I had a power strip under the
monitor that has switches for each outlet. It works find except then
the weather is bad and the power cycles on and off. I don't think
using this setting would be a good idea unless you have a UPS.

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:51:17 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:


As other have have said, cable length might be an issue, especially
for the monitor. My computer lives in Grandma's antique desk and to
minimize damage, I didn't want to drill holes for the cables. I was

Do you think some day the faux-formica computer desks with the slide
out shelf for the keyboard and the holes for the cables will be
antiques?

Will people ask their value on the 2097 edition of the Antiques Road
Show?

Do think DerbyMom might someday be a grandmother and the grown
grandkid will be afraid to damage the curved edges of the swivel
shelves?

able to remove a bottom panel but then I needed extensions for my non-
usb mouse, non-usb keyboard and monitor. The extension cables for the
mouse and keyboard were not a problem and I believe they come in some
decent lengths.

The monitor cable was a different story. I bought a "standard" monitor
extension cord at Best Buy and my video quality sucked. I did a little
internet research and found that I needed to use a shielded coaxial
extension cable in order to maintain good quality. Just as an example,
this site sells them for $13 - $80, depending on the length you need.

http://www.vpi.us/cable-vga.html

All this said, I think sticking the computer in a remote location may
not be the best idea, for all the reasons so many others have
mentioned.

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 22:10:39 -0400, krw wrote:

In article , NOPSAMmm2005
says...
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:43:23 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:


How are you connecting your keyboard and mouse? If you're using USB,
you already have the cable you need to have a hub in the room above.

Good point. I don't have one, but I'm still in the 90's with win98
even.

Win98 supports USB, so the solution I mentioned should work (although

Isn't USB limited to 10'? That's not much if you're running between
floors and to several devices.


16' per segment and 5 segments (with hubs between them).

Yeah, I have USB and I have a USB camera. I'm just not up to having a
hub yet.

They're cheap. I have a couple of nice seven port hubs, the laptop
has three ports, the dock five, and monitor four (and another four
port in the drawer). ;-)

Well, my friend gave me two of them, but I haven't used one yet. They
have quite short cords, too short to use in the basmeent. Maybe
that's why he gave them to me. I think he got one of them for free
somewhere.

There is a maximum length. IMO you'll run into this if you go
between floors.


Adjacent floors shouldn't be more than 16 feet apart. Maybe if this
cable needs to run horizontally too.

snip
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 20:30:47 -0700, Terry
wrote:

On Jul 19, 5:42 pm, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 11:24:15 -0700, "RJ"
wrote:

1. On most new computer systems, you must
press a button on the box to "Power On"

There's likely a setting in the BIOS to make it come on automatically
when power is applied. Then you can use a remote power switch. I have
used such a setup for a couple of years.

I use to use this setting because I had a power strip under the
monitor that has switches for each outlet. It works find except then
the weather is bad and the power cycles on and off. I don't think
using this setting would be a good idea unless you have a UPS.


Maybe not if you have frequent really short power outages.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:51:17 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Jul 19, 12:22 am, Andrew Sarangan wrote:
To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the
processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the
floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens
to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate
the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should
be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or
signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall
extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or
if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the
drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI
cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling
something that big through structural lumber would be out of the
question.
Any thoughts?

As other have have said, cable length might be an issue, especially
for the monitor. My computer lives in Grandma's antique desk and to
minimize damage, I didn't want to drill holes for the cables. I was
able to remove a bottom panel but then I needed extensions for my non-
usb mouse, non-usb keyboard and monitor. The extension cables for the
mouse and keyboard were not a problem and I believe they come in some
decent lengths.

The monitor cable was a different story. I bought a "standard" monitor
extension cord at Best Buy and my video quality sucked. I did a little
internet research and found that I needed to use a shielded coaxial
extension cable in order to maintain good quality. Just as an example,
this site sells them for $13 - $80, depending on the length you need.

http://www.vpi.us/cable-vga.html

All this said, I think sticking the computer in a remote location may
not be the best idea, for all the reasons so many others have
mentioned.


I suppose someone who really wanted to avoid noise would use a fanless
diskless computer (it boots over the network) on a network with a file
server in the basement.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov