Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

In article ,
Robin .@. writes:
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

I wonder if you're trying to use lead-free solder with an iron
which wasn't designed for it and isn't up to it?

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

If that's the only thing you're going to use it for in the next
5 years, I would suggest buying another cheap one. I don't think
they normally fail very often -- you were just unlucky.

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 09:20:33 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).

No, but beer was nothing like £2 a pint when you or I were students either ;-)

I had (still have) a TCP with a 12V element (very handy for use away from
mains) and for years had a spare element tucked away just in case.
Eventually had to fit it and found that the new one was a different
diameter so the sleeve which holds the bit on wouldn't fit :-(


--
John Stumbles

Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus
and Pop Psychologists are from Uranus

In article ,
John Stumbles writes:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 09:20:33 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).

No, but beer was nothing like £2 a pint when you or I were students either ;-)

It was 49p a pint.
Actually, I've never liked beer, but I did
occasionally serve it in a student bar.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
John Stumbles writes:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 09:20:33 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).
No, but beer was nothing like £2 a pint when you or I were students either ;-)

It was 49p a pint.
Actually, I've never liked beer, but I did
occasionally serve it in a student bar.

Youngster. 12p a pint for Fed keg.

Ah - you did say beer... :-)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 18:06:23 +0000, Rod
wrote:

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
John Stumbles writes:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 09:20:33 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).
No, but beer was nothing like £2 a pint when you or I were students either ;-)

It was 49p a pint.
Actually, I've never liked beer, but I did
occasionally serve it in a student bar.

Youngster. 12p a pint for Fed keg.

Youngster too - I used to pay 1/5d (ca. 7p) a pint when I (legally)
started drinking...

I was going to give it up when it became 2/- a pint, but you know how
it is.

;-)
--
Frank Erskine

In article ,
Rod wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
John Stumbles writes:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 09:20:33 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).
No, but beer was nothing like £2 a pint when you or I were students
either ;-)

It was 49p a pint. Actually, I've never liked beer, but I did
occasionally serve it in a student bar.

Youngster. 12p a pint for Fed keg.

Ah - you did say beer... :-)

I'm feeling old. First pint I bought cost 1s 11d. That's just under 10p.

--
*Virtual reality is its own reward *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Rod wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
John Stumbles writes:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 09:20:33 +0000, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).
No, but beer was nothing like £2 a pint when you or I were students
either ;-)

It was 49p a pint.
Actually, I've never liked beer, but I did
occasionally serve it in a student bar.

Youngster. 12p a pint for Fed keg.

Ah - you did say beer... :-)

5 pints of real ale, a packet of crisps, a stripper and change from a £1
- what better way for a group of lads spending Sunday lunch time when
you are 18......

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP
which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years
later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50
when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a
student!).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Seconded.

Yes, I have exactly the same, from the same era.

I bought it after doing a few weeks student's apprentice work at Ferranti in
Edinburgh, before my 1st year uni. This was standard-issue there. They
were so good compared to my previous one that I had one bought for me for
xmas! It was around £50 at the time, as I recall, and quite a big ask!

I still have it, it's still my main soldering iron.
I've got the usual bag of tips, for different temperatures, and different
sizes.
( At my work, we use a lot of HMP solder. )

It's an older one who's transformer base station is wider than it is deep,
with the iron connected by a 2-core cable to a pair of screw terminals, not
one of the fancy 'cube with a sloping front' ones with a plug-in pencil.
Nor does it have any digital fancyness. Just curie-effect magnetic
thermostat.

It's probably my longest-serving piece of electronic kit, and I expect it to
continue indefinately.

( Second is my AVO-8, but I don't use that much. I keep it as a museum
piece. My work-a-day meter is my Fluke 87. )

--
Ron

The message
from "Ron Lowe" ronATlowe-famlyDOTmeDOTukSPURIOUS contains these words:



( Second is my AVO-8, but I don't use that much. I keep it as a museum
piece. My work-a-day meter is my Fluke 87. )

Good AVOs go for about £20, with case, on ebay.

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:54:48 UTC, Robin .@. wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

I do these quite a bit, and have no trouble.

I use an Antex 16-18W soldering iron.

Do you have some of the new lead-free solder, I wonder?
--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:54:48 UTC, Robin .@. wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

I do these quite a bit, and have no trouble.

I use an Antex 16-18W soldering iron.

Do you have some of the new lead-free solder, I wonder?


Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for the
iron. Having a look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron shows
me I need 350-400°C.

Thanks

Robin wrote:
Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:54:48 UTC, Robin .@. wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an
RS232 DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of
years back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin
solder when I try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

I do these quite a bit, and have no trouble.

I use an Antex 16-18W soldering iron.

Do you have some of the new lead-free solder, I wonder?


Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for
the iron. Having a look at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron shows me I need
350-400°C.

Surely what you want is leaded solder? ;-)

Tim

Tim Downie wrote:
Robin wrote:
Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:54:48 UTC, Robin .@. wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an
RS232 DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of
years back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin
solder when I try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?
I do these quite a bit, and have no trouble.

I use an Antex 16-18W soldering iron.

Do you have some of the new lead-free solder, I wonder?

Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for
the iron. Having a look at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron shows me I need
350-400°C.

Surely what you want is leaded solder? ;-)

Tim


if you can still get it that is ,that's why I stocked up :-)

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

In article ,
Kevin writes:
Tim Downie wrote:

Surely what you want is leaded solder? ;-)

if you can still get it that is ,that's why I stocked up :-)

So do I, but it's easily available from everywhere except Maplin,
and apparently will remain so.

Also, given my component stocks are all lead tinned, I'm not sure
what happens if you mix those with lead-free solder (or use leaded
solder with lead-free components, which are slowly starting to
appear in my stocks). I've not noticed any ill effects yet.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In message , Kevin
writes
Tim Downie wrote:
Robin wrote:
Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:54:48 UTC, Robin .@. wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an
RS232 DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of
years back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin
solder when I try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?
I do these quite a bit, and have no trouble.

I use an Antex 16-18W soldering iron.

Do you have some of the new lead-free solder, I wonder?

Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for
the iron. Having a look at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron shows me I need
350-400°C.
Surely what you want is leaded solder? ;-)
Tim
if you can still get it that is ,that's why I stocked up :-)

Of course you can - I bought 12 reels of it 2 months ago (from CPC)


--
geoff

On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 09:53:42 UTC, Robin .@. wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:
On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:54:48 UTC, Robin .@. wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

I do these quite a bit, and have no trouble.

I use an Antex 16-18W soldering iron.

Do you have some of the new lead-free solder, I wonder?


Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for the
iron. Having a look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron shows
me I need 350-400°C.

Just get leaded solder! Easy to obtain if you are not 'commercial'.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for
the iron. Having a look at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron shows me I need 350-400°C.

Just get leaded solder! Easy to obtain if you are not 'commercial'.

I don't think it is in the small quantities the OP sounds like he'd use.
Sure you can buy it by the reel from the major suppliers - with a minimum
order cost - but I've not seen it recently in small quantities from a
retailer like Maplin.

--
*A nest isn't empty until all their stuff is out of the attic

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Bob Eager wrote:
Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for
the iron. Having a look at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering_iron shows me I need 350-400°C.

Just get leaded solder! Easy to obtain if you are not 'commercial'.

I don't think it is in the small quantities the OP sounds like he'd use.
Sure you can buy it by the reel from the major suppliers - with a minimum
order cost - but I've not seen it recently in small quantities from a
retailer like Maplin.

Their mistake. Maplin still haven't realised that they jumped to the
wrong conclusions about 5 years ago. They are perfectly free to sell
tin/lead solder to anyone, and most DIYers are perfectly free to use it.

Unleaded solder is *not* compulsory for anything that is not "placed on
the market" within the specific legal definition of that term. See
sections 1.15 and 2.1 of:
http://ec.europa.eu/environment/waste/pdf/faq_weee.pdf

The only exception is in repairing recent equipment that has already
been placed on the market under these regulations, and therefore was
"born lead-free". In that case, unleaded solder must be used for
repairs. So even though a repair using tin/lead solder is easier, more
likely to be successful, more likely to be reliable and more likely to
save the item from going to landfill, I couldn't possibly advise you to
do that :-)

Leaded solder is easily available from a wide variety of electronics
suppliers in reasonably small quantities (for example, try
www.rapidelectronics.co.uk). It's just Maplin that is out of step.

Antex have uprated their more recent irons from 15W to 18W to work
better with unleaded solders. However, as a company they are still
unduly fond of the skinny pencil-type bits which have about the worst
possible heat transfer from the heating element to the work.


--
Ian White

In article ,
Robin .@. wrote:
Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

I'm surprised at that. Are you leaving it long enough to heat up? Have you
removed the bit to make sure it's not got crud insulating it? Is the
spring clip that grips it in place still present and positioned where it
does the job? Because it should cope with even lead free solder.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

Nowt wrong with Antex - it's my make of choice. But like any iron you need
one specified for the type of work you're doing. And the type of bit
fitted influences this as larger ones act as a heat store for the larger
jobs the iron is capable of. Your iron is for normal PCB work.

If you do decide on a new one the definitive type for all electronics will
be a temperature controlled 50 watt low voltage type. They were once
expensive, but can be bought on Ebay etc for about 30 quid these days.

--
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

dave wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 10:21:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

I think Weller is the best you can get in terms of quality of
materials and they are excellent designs ergo-wise too. I've had my
tcp one for 25 years and it still works fine.
btw RS still sell leaded solder (at least they did about 3 months
ago). Interestingly the smaller diam resin cored stuff is more
expensive that the thicker stuff... well I suppose it's trickier to
pour the flux into those tiny little holes :-)
seconded or what ever count we are up to for a Weller, my last one went
on for 30 years before I blew up the electronics in the iron,now I have
a simple fixed temperature one, you just change the tips to change the
temperature and this one will probably out last me

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

In article ,
dave wrote:
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 10:21:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Err, you seem to have snipped everything I wrote...

I think Weller is the best you can get in terms of quality of
materials and they are excellent designs ergo-wise too. I've had my
tcp one for 25 years and it still works fine.
btw RS still sell leaded solder (at least they did about 3 months
ago). Interestingly the smaller diam resin cored stuff is more
expensive that the thicker stuff... well I suppose it's trickier to
pour the flux into those tiny little holes :-)

Been quite a few comments recently about Weller not being of the same
quality as once.

--
*Atheism is a non-prophet organization.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , dave
scribeth thus
On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 10:21:18 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

I think Weller is the best you can get in terms of quality of
materials and they are excellent designs ergo-wise too. I've had my
tcp one for 25 years and it still works fine.

Yep best Irons ever, hate to think what age ours actually are been
around since the 80's at least!)

btw RS still sell leaded solder (at least they did about 3 months
ago). Interestingly the smaller diam resin cored stuff is more
expensive that the thicker stuff... well I suppose it's trickier to
pour the flux into those tiny little holes :-)

Proper solder is around..
--
Tony Sayer

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 15:50:56 +0000, tony sayer wrote:

Yep best Irons ever, hate to think what age ours actually are been
around since the 80's at least!)

Pah - Johnny-come-lately! ;-)

Was using the TCP in the early '70s, and the miniature high-output
versions with the curved bits for soldering thick-film stuff for jet enine
controllers, when I did a stint at Lucas Aerospace.

--
John Stumbles

What do you mean, talking about it isn't oral sex?

On Nov 2, 8:54*am, Robin .@. wrote:
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

If you get another iron go for a 25w rather than the piddly 15
watters. This'll make it usable for many more apps.

As for a decent iron, theres really no need. I've never come across an
iron that was working properly that couldnt make a decent joint.


NT

wrote:
On Nov 2, 8:54 am, Robin .@. wrote:
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

If you get another iron go for a 25w rather than the piddly 15
watters. This'll make it usable for many more apps.

As for a decent iron, theres really no need. I've never come across an
iron that was working properly that couldnt make a decent joint.

as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w
decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W
NT


--
Kevin R
Reply address works

Kevin wrote:
wrote:
as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w
decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W

5W and 200W are both strange examples to use in the context of general
electronics work.

--
Adrian C

Adrian C wrote:
Kevin wrote:
wrote:
as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w
decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W

5W and 200W are both strange examples to use in the context of general
electronics work.

is was a reply to "any soldering iron will work it does not have to be
decent", it a bit like paint brushes or air brushes, one soldering iron
is not a 1 stop for all jobs shop

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 17:45:57 +0000, Kevin
wrote:

Adrian C wrote:
Kevin wrote:
wrote:
as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w
decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W

5W and 200W are both strange examples to use in the context of general
electronics work.

is was a reply to "any soldering iron will work it does not have to be
decent", it a bit like paint brushes or air brushes, one soldering iron
is not a 1 stop for all jobs shop

You really need at least three.

One about 50W temperature controlled with a pointed tip for electronic
work, one about 50W with plenty of mass and a chisel tip for car
alternators and starter motors and one about 200W for chunky earth
braids.

--

On Nov 2, 5:45*pm, Kevin wrote:
Adrian C wrote:
Kevin wrote:
wrote:
as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w
decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W

5W and 200W are both strange examples to use in the context of general
electronics work.

is was a reply to "any soldering iron will work it does not have to be
decent", it a bit like paint brushes or air brushes, one soldering iron
is not a 1 stop for all jobs shop

no-one said any iron will work, and I doubt anyone would. Read what's
written.


NT

On Nov 2, 8:54*am, Robin .@. wrote:
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

Try a new tip and be sure to tin it properly (easier said than done
with some).

MBQ

The message
from "Man at B&Q" contains these words:

On Nov 2, 8:54*am, Robin .@. wrote:
Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232
DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years
back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I
try to tin the tip.

Try a new tip and be sure to tin it properly (easier said than done
with some).

I must say that the American irons which have screw-in elements and
screw in tips are very pleasant to use and extremely versatile. The one
handle can be used for a vast number of different purposes when fitted
with an element and a tip to suit the job. Mine are all over thirty
years old and just great. Far better than an Antex, Solon, Weller or
whatever. For cheap and not-at-all nasty there are always our friends
at Lidl -- and at least they honour the guarantee on what they sell. 3
Year warranty on a soldering iron? Not bad.

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I must say that the American irons which have screw-in elements and
screw in tips are very pleasant to use and extremely versatile. The one
handle can be used for a vast number of different purposes when fitted
with an element and a tip to suit the job. Mine are all over thirty
years old and just great. Far better than an Antex, Solon, Weller or
whatever.

Fine for an occasional user I'm sure - but if you're using one all day
ergonomics are more important than versatility. Which to me means light
weight and performance. A bit like attachments for a power drill versus
separate units. Irons are so cheap I can't see the point in having what
you describe, except to carry around in the toolbox. And for that sort of
emergency thing I prefer a gas one anyway.

--
*If they arrest the Energizer Bunny, would they charge it with battery? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The message
from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I must say that the American irons which have screw-in elements and
screw in tips are very pleasant to use and extremely versatile. The one
handle can be used for a vast number of different purposes when fitted
with an element and a tip to suit the job. Mine are all over thirty
years old and just great. Far better than an Antex, Solon, Weller or
whatever.

Fine for an occasional user I'm sure - but if you're using one all day
ergonomics are more important than versatility. Which to me means light
weight and performance. A bit like attachments for a power drill versus
separate units. Irons are so cheap I can't see the point in having what
you describe, except to carry around in the toolbox. And for that sort of
emergency thing I prefer a gas one anyway.

It comes down to what suits you.

I've a couple of old Henley Solon 25W irons -- not my first choice for
anything.

I've a few American handles/elements/tips -- I like them very much and
they're pretty light in use.

I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended
to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I've a miscellany of other irons and guns, including Lidl ones which are fine.

I agree re power drill attachments. I wasn't suggesting that one should
constantly be changing iron parts -- though it takes less time to change
an element or bit than to put a new blade in a jigsaw with a
quick-change mechanism. It's more that such a setup provides a very
easy way of tailoring an iron to suit your needs.

In article ,
Appin wrote:
I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended
to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I'd say you were either using the wrong bit for the element or the spring
clip wasn't positioned properly. It goes towards the top of the split
(nearest the handle)

I've never had one come loose despite having used them for many many years.

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 02 Nov 2008 08:54:48 +0000, Robin wrote:

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

FWIW LiDL in Reading currently have a 30W iron with a quite neat small
pointed tip, and a stand with a springy holder, all for a fiver!

The stand even has a pair of fold-up plastic arms with croc clips on
ball-joints for holding bits while you solder them.

Dunno how good the iron is but I figured I was buying a stand with a free
iron thrown in :-)

--
John Stumbles

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you.