Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

TIA

Dave R

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 14:17:53 +0000, David WE Roberts wrote:

Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

TIA

Dave R

I got a metal one from Screwfix ages and it is showing slight signs of rust but
it wan't any of the 2 models mentioned.

Here is a tip .Get yourself a cat litter tray big enough to sit the tile cutter
in .Saves all the fluid going all over the floor or wherever you situate the
machine . Doesn't stop you getting sprayed unfortunately .lol



Stuart

HI Dave

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 14:17:53 +0000, David WE Roberts
wrote:

Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

I have one of the Screwfix Erbauer saws.
It's very strongly built - all-metal (which makes it reassuringly
heavy!), and it's got the ability to cut straight across a tile,
diagonally across (clever little plastic thingy fits over the
'fence').

It can also cut at an angle to the tile's face, though not sure why
you'd want to do that.

Only minor niggles are the fact that the water reservoir (which sits
under the blade) is a bit of a fiddle to get in & out, and usually
spills when you are trying to clean up after a cutting session.

So far I've only used it for cutting wall tiles - but it was quick and
accurate.
Well worth the money, I'd say

Good luck
Adrian

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 14:17:53 +0000, David WE Roberts wrote:

Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

TIA

Dave R

Can't see the Rexon on the Screwfix site...not at that price anyway although
there are more expensive models ..There is also the Titan at £29.99 which looks
similar to the one I bought a couple of years ago and it is showing signs of
rust .

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...83636&ts=60814


Toolstation.com have the Rexon at £59.61


57413 Rexon TC1150AL Tile Cutter 230V £59.61


Stuart

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 14:17:53 +0000, David WE Roberts
wrote:

Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

TIA

Dave R

I bought a cheap one from Screwfix a while ago and while the table is
a bit rusty and scratched it still works ok. It chucks more water on
the floor than on you these days but it still works fine. Had a
couple of new wheels in it but it does the job.

The tray underneath it is a very good idea as they are very messy. :-)


Mark S.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 14:35:43 +0000, Stuart wrote:

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 14:17:53 +0000, David WE Roberts wrote:

Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

TIA

Dave R

Can't see the Rexon on the Screwfix site...not at that price anyway although
there are more expensive models ..There is also the Titan at £29.99 which looks
similar to the one I bought a couple of years ago and it is showing signs of
rust .

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...83636&ts=60814


Toolstation.com have the Rexon at £59.61


57413 Rexon TC1150AL Tile Cutter 230V £59.61


I must be looking in a different place.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...9279&id=101289

This doesn't have the cheaper one you mentioned.

There must be different categories.

I will look at the other ones as well.

Cheers

Dave R

David WE Roberts wrote:
Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

TIA

Dave R

I used the Plasplug one and never had a complaint with it. Did a
serious tiling with it - the tiles were thicker than normal and
wouldn't break so all cutting had to be done with the tile saw.
Excellent tool - can't sing it's praises highly enough.

Can't remember any problem with flexing - also can't remember if it had
a jig for cutting on the diagonal, but it did have a jig for beveling
edges which I used for corner tiles.

If you can do all your cutting outside all and good - otherwise the cat
litter tray sounds a good idea. There is a cutter guard and you can
angle that to prevent splash back. The blades aren't that cheap but I
did a whole bathroom (20 sq m) with 2.

Rob

In article ,
Stuart wrote:
Here is a tip .Get yourself a cat litter tray big enough to sit the tile
cutter in .Saves all the fluid going all over the floor or wherever you
situate the machine . Doesn't stop you getting sprayed unfortunately
.lol

You must have some large cats round your way - my Plasplugs wouldn't fit
in any one I've seen. It doesn't throw water onto the floor if you adjust
the blade guard correctly but you do tend to get a bit damp round the
belly.;-)

--
*When cheese gets it's picture taken, what does it say?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
David WE Roberts wrote:
Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?


I've got the Plasplugs Contractor Plus and have been pretty satisfied with
it. You do need to keep a bucket of water handy to dip the guide ends into
fairly frequently to keep the clips working properly. Also to wash down
the bed - but I'd guess this applies to any such cutter. Blade life has
been good. It is an ideal size for clamping onto a Workmate too - great
for working outside, my preferred way when cutting tiles because of the
light.

--
*Why do they put Braille on the drive-through bank machines?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 17:26:03 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Stuart wrote:
Here is a tip .Get yourself a cat litter tray big enough to sit the tile
cutter in .Saves all the fluid going all over the floor or wherever you
situate the machine . Doesn't stop you getting sprayed unfortunately
.lol

You must have some large cats round your way - my Plasplugs wouldn't fit
in any one I've seen. It doesn't throw water onto the floor if you adjust
the blade guard correctly but you do tend to get a bit damp round the
belly.;-)

Nah .Just a bog ( teehee) standard litter tray but the cutter has a narrower
frame bit that it stands on so it fits the tray purrfectly .!!!

David WE Roberts wrote:
Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this
question answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit
flexible. (2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

I have a £39:99 Plasplugs joby. Works OK but the plastic fence is a bit
wafty. Keeps falling off.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

Adrian wrote:

It can also cut at an angle to the tile's face, though not sure why
you'd want to do that.

Mitred corners without using one of those plastic edging strips.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 19:56:21 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

It can also cut at an angle to the tile's face, though not sure why
you'd want to do that.

Mitred corners without using one of those plastic edging strips.

I'd imagine that would be a tricky thing to do ,especially if it was anything
other than a very short length .

Stuart wrote:

Here is a tip .Get yourself a cat litter tray big enough to sit the tile cutter
in .Saves all the fluid going all over the floor or wherever you situate the
machine . Doesn't stop you getting sprayed unfortunately .lol

That is one area where the plasplugs with its built in water recycling
capability is better than some of the other.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Adrian wrote:

It can also cut at an angle to the tile's face, though not sure why
you'd want to do that.

Tu cut mitred edges for use on corners if you dont want to use edging
strips.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 20:26:32 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Tu cut mitred edges for use on corners if you dont want to use edging
strips.

On an external corner don't you end up with a sharp edges or if your
round off the razor edge exposed tile core that looks ugly. In either
case it's going to be very prone to chipping. A plastic edging strip will
take the knocks.

For an internal corner I can't see the point and you don't want to tile
tight to corners anyway in case the building moves and starts to stress
the tiles.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Stuart wrote:
On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 14:17:53 +0000, David WE Roberts wrote:

Hi,

trawled back through Goggle Groups a way but couldn't find this question
answered.

I gather that:

(1) Some people find the PlasPlugs plastic tile cutters a bit flexible.
(2) Steel tile cutters tend to rust.

So is it best to go for a more expensive PlasPlugs model, or are there
better alternatives?

Screwfix shows the Erbauer at £44.99 or the Rexon at £59.99.

Alternatively (if I can find anywhere with one in stock) B&Q do the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £39.99.

Anyone have experience of these models, and can give me some feedback?

TIA

Dave R

I got a metal one from Screwfix ages and it is showing slight signs of rust but
it wan't any of the 2 models mentioned.

Here is a tip .Get yourself a cat litter tray big enough to sit the tile cutter
in .Saves all the fluid going all over the floor or wherever you situate the
machine . Doesn't stop you getting sprayed unfortunately .lol



Stuart
My steel one is rusty, was dead cheap and is on its second diamond wheel
already.

It only let me down cutting 40mm, thick marble. Only 30mm depth of cut.
It did 25mm sandstone slab though.

Buy cheap. Unless you are doing tiling every day, its more than good enough.

Stuart wrote:
On Sun, 10 Dec 2006 19:56:21 +0000, Andy Burns
wrote:

Adrian wrote:

It can also cut at an angle to the tile's face, though not sure why
you'd want to do that.
Mitred corners without using one of those plastic edging strips.

I'd imagine that would be a tricky thing to do ,especially if it was anything
other than a very short length .


Not really.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

Tu cut mitred edges for use on corners if you dont want to use edging
strips.


On an external corner don't you end up with a sharp edges or if your
round off the razor edge exposed tile core that looks ugly. In either
case it's going to be very prone to chipping. A plastic edging strip will
take the knocks.

Well the tile saws don't leave the same sharp edge you get with the
score and snap cutters. It also depends a bit on the tiles used. For
ordinary pottery ones the plastic edges are probably better, but for
things like 15mm thick travertine marble, mitres can work well.

For an internal corner I can't see the point and you don't want to tile
tight to corners anyway in case the building moves and starts to stress
the tiles.

No, would not use one then (in fact you don't usually mitre many
internal corners of anything). I don't grout those either for the same
reason (I use silicone).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
Adrian wrote:
It can also cut at an angle to the tile's face, though not sure why
you'd want to do that.

Handy for non glazed tiles like marble, etc.

--
*What am I? Flypaper for freaks!?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 00:25:23 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

Well the tile saws don't leave the same sharp edge you get with the
score and snap cutters.

My cheap plasplugs cutter leaves a pretty sharp edge, equally as sharp
the odd scratch and snap I make.

but for things like 15mm thick travertine marble, mitres can work well.

Ah, I wasn't classing self coloured materials, like stone or marble, as
tiles. In my book tiles are man made things and mostly not self coloured.

I can see that proper mitre could work there and with a small radius on
the extreme edge you can reduce the risk of chipping.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

In article om,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
My cheap plasplugs cutter leaves a pretty sharp edge, equally as sharp
the odd scratch and snap I make.

It shouldn't do. It should give a near perfectly smooth edge. Score and
snap never does.

--
*I didn't drive my husband crazy -- I flew him there -- it was faster

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:04:47 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It shouldn't do. It should give a near perfectly smooth edge. Score and
snap never does.

It's smooth like as in a razor is smooth...


--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:04:47 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


It shouldn't do. It should give a near perfectly smooth edge. Score and
snap never does.


It's smooth like as in a razor is smooth...

I have the basic plasplugs one (was £32 from machine mart) and that
leaves a nice smooth edge...

Perhaps it depends on what type of wheel you have in it. You do cut them
face up I take it?

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:04:47 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


It shouldn't do. It should give a near perfectly smooth edge. Score and
snap never does.


It's smooth like as in a razor is smooth...

I have the basic plasplugs one (was £32 from machine mart) and that
leaves a nice smooth edge...

Perhaps it depends on what type of wheel you have in it. You do cut them
face up I take it?

Just wipe any sharp edges with a bit of emery paper..thats takes the
knife edge off them.

having read all the previous posts, I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy
the plasplug tile cutter. Can anyone tell me how it does with curves?
Or even HOW to cut curves with a tile cutter? And what do you all think
of using an angle grinder instead of a tile cutter?
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:04:47 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


It shouldn't do. It should give a near perfectly smooth edge. Score and
snap never does.


It's smooth like as in a razor is smooth...

I have the basic plasplugs one (was £32 from machine mart) and that
leaves a nice smooth edge...

Perhaps it depends on what type of wheel you have in it. You do cut them
face up I take it?

Just wipe any sharp edges with a bit of emery paper..thats takes the
knife edge off them.

hodah wrote:

having read all the previous posts, I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy
the plasplug tile cutter. Can anyone tell me how it does with curves?
Or even HOW to cut curves with a tile cutter?

Curves:

You can cut very slight curves just by following a line, however this is
only any good for very gentle curves. If you want a "real" curve or semi
circle, then the way I do it is to make repeated cuts into the tile
leaving "fingers" of tile at right angles to the line. This leaves a
"comb" effect on the tile:


########################
########################
######################
########################
################### - Cuts
########################
#################
########################
###################
########################
######################
########################

The fingers an now be snapped away very easily:

########################
########################
######################
#####################
################### - Cuts
###################
#################
##################
###################
######################
######################
########################

And clean up using light latteral passes with the cutting wheel to
smooth out the resulting finger stumps. Each finger wants to be no more
than about twice the blade kerf.

And what do you all think
of using an angle grinder instead of a tile cutter?

As a general solution it is not ideal - and certainly not when working
indoors due to the *massive* amount of dust created. (tile cutters
suppress the dust with the water bath)

For some tiles (very thick travatine marble etc), then it can work well
if cutting outside, against a straight edge. You will need a very good
diamond disc with side polishing insets for good results however (there
is a Norton aerojet disc that screwfix do which is good for this -
however be prepared to pay £50 for a 115mm disc!)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

thank you!!
John Rumm wrote:

hodah wrote:

having read all the previous posts, I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy
the plasplug tile cutter. Can anyone tell me how it does with curves?
Or even HOW to cut curves with a tile cutter?

Curves:

You can cut very slight curves just by following a line, however this is
only any good for very gentle curves. If you want a "real" curve or semi
circle, then the way I do it is to make repeated cuts into the tile
leaving "fingers" of tile at right angles to the line. This leaves a
"comb" effect on the tile:


########################
########################
######################
########################
################### - Cuts
########################
#################
########################
###################
########################
######################
########################

The fingers an now be snapped away very easily:

########################
########################
######################
#####################
################### - Cuts
###################
#################
##################
###################
######################
######################
########################

And clean up using light latteral passes with the cutting wheel to
smooth out the resulting finger stumps. Each finger wants to be no more
than about twice the blade kerf.

And what do you all think
of using an angle grinder instead of a tile cutter?

As a general solution it is not ideal - and certainly not when working
indoors due to the *massive* amount of dust created. (tile cutters
suppress the dust with the water bath)

For some tiles (very thick travatine marble etc), then it can work well
if cutting outside, against a straight edge. You will need a very good
diamond disc with side polishing insets for good results however (there
is a Norton aerojet disc that screwfix do which is good for this -
however be prepared to pay £50 for a 115mm disc!)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article . com,
hodah wrote:
And what do you all think of using an angle grinder instead of a tile
cutter?

Next door had 'builders' in and they were cutting what looked like wall
tiles with one in the street. Sparks everywhere. I suppose a skilled
person might make a half decent cut with one (they couldn't), but an idiot
should get a perfect cut every time with a wet cutter - and no dust. I'd
guess the blades last rather better too. It's really rather like using a
hand held circular saw vesus a bench type. No contest.

--
*Make it idiot-proof and someone will make a better idiot.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 12:19:28 +0000, John Rumm wrote:

You can cut very slight curves just by following a line, however this
is only any good for very gentle curves. If you want a "real" curve or
semi circle, then the way I do it is to make repeated cuts into the
tile leaving "fingers" of tile at right angles to the line. This leaves
a "comb" effect on the tile:

Thats how I'd do it as well but be aware that there will be a significant
undercut at the edge of the curve, this means the edge is a bit fragile
and sharp. Using the corner of the blade to even up the broken out teeth
can be very effective.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail