I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house. The paint is
very thick, but in *very* bad order, with great flakes coming off in
some parts, solid as rock in other parts. In the past, I've rubbed down
and scraped, rubbed down again, then primed, undercoated etc. ... thus
really making the problem worse I guess.

I'm wondering about completely stripping one or two of the frames this
year, but the only way I can think of is to use a blow torch: are these
still used? I used to hate using a torch (very difficult to get a
uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked glass etc.),
but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult to get a uniform
result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

Can you still get a blow torch? Has any great technological advance
been made in this field since I last used one (20 odd years ago)?

BTW I don't think any power sander could do the job: I may be wrong?

Cheers
John

John wrote:

I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house. The paint is
very thick, but in *very* bad order, with great flakes coming off in
some parts, solid as rock in other parts. In the past, I've rubbed down
and scraped, rubbed down again, then primed, undercoated etc. ... thus
really making the problem worse I guess.

I'm wondering about completely stripping one or two of the frames this
year, but the only way I can think of is to use a blow torch: are these
still used? I used to hate using a torch (very difficult to get a
uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked glass etc.),
but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult to get a uniform
result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

Can you still get a blow torch? Has any great technological advance
been made in this field since I last used one (20 odd years ago)?

BTW I don't think any power sander could do the job: I may be wrong?

Cheers
John

I use a "heat gun", i.e. like a very hot hairdryer. If you heat until
the paint goes soft but does not burn, it goes plasticky and you can
scrape it off. It's much more controlable that using a blow-torch,
which always seems to set the window frame on fire !
Can you still get a blow-torch ? Well I use one for plumbing. Tech ?
Well mine will burn OK upside down and has peizo ignition ...
Simon.

Would the hand held torches that plumbers use do the job ?

Link: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=71851

John wrote:
I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house. The paint is
very thick, but in *very* bad order, with great flakes coming off in
some parts, solid as rock in other parts. In the past, I've rubbed down
and scraped, rubbed down again, then primed, undercoated etc. ... thus
really making the problem worse I guess.

I'm wondering about completely stripping one or two of the frames this
year, but the only way I can think of is to use a blow torch: are these
still used? I used to hate using a torch (very difficult to get a
uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked glass etc.),
but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult to get a uniform
result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

Can you still get a blow torch? Has any great technological advance
been made in this field since I last used one (20 odd years ago)?

BTW I don't think any power sander could do the job: I may be wrong?

Cheers
John

Looks like we have another NT now. You can also get discs that are an
open weave fibre lump with bits of abrasive dotted about. By far the
fastest way to strip paint off wod is a wire brush in an angle grinder,
but its _very_ easy to do damage. As already said, an electric heat gun
is a much more sensible choice than a blowlamp. Finally a metal dish
scourer works quite well. Expensive though, at 11-30p.


NT

In the current heatwave, little more than light application of a
heatgun should be required!

John wrote:
I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house. The paint
is very thick, but in *very* bad order, with great flakes coming off
in some parts, solid as rock in other parts. In the past, I've
rubbed down and scraped, rubbed down again, then primed, undercoated
etc. ... thus really making the problem worse I guess.

I'm wondering about completely stripping one or two of the frames this
year, but the only way I can think of is to use a blow torch: are
these still used? I used to hate using a torch (very difficult to
get a uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked
glass etc.), but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult to
get a uniform result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

Can you still get a blow torch? Has any great technological advance
been made in this field since I last used one (20 odd years ago)?

BTW I don't think any power sander could do the job: I may be wrong?

Cheers
John

I'd be concerned about lead in the fumes as the paint got hot.

have you considered a lye based paste or a mousse like the 'new' one
from nitromoors ? http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=45227

hth

John wrote:
I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house. The paint
is very thick, but in *very* bad order, with great flakes coming off
in some parts, solid as rock in other parts. In the past, I've
rubbed down and scraped, rubbed down again, then primed, undercoated
etc. ... thus really making the problem worse I guess.

I'm wondering about completely stripping one or two of the frames this
year, but the only way I can think of is to use a blow torch: are
these still used? I used to hate using a torch (very difficult to
get a uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked
glass etc.), but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult to
get a uniform result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

Can you still get a blow torch? Has any great technological advance
been made in this field since I last used one (20 odd years ago)?

BTW I don't think any power sander could do the job: I may be wrong?

Cheers
John

I bought one of these and never looked back.
However it needs a bottle of propane at 10GBP for a 6.5kilo bottle,but well
worth it as it last for quite some time.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product...7&r=2037&g=105


--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The message
from "." [email protected] contains these words:

I'd be concerned about lead in the fumes as the paint got hot.

45 years is right on the cusp of lead paint being banned, too. If any
were original it'd be worth considering precautions.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Guy King wrote:
The message
from "." [email protected] contains these words:

I'd be concerned about lead in the fumes as the paint got hot.

45 years is right on the cusp of lead paint being banned, too. If any
were original it'd be worth considering precautions.

We're talking outside here,plenty of ventilation.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

John wrote:

I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house.

I used to hate using a torch (very difficult to get a
uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked glass etc.),
but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult to get a uniform
result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

As time goes on I get less keen on using a flame around a building,
especially near the roof, and hot air strippers don't really work
outdoors. I also hate Nitromors.

I've just started using a caustic soda gel. It works well, it doesn't
emit unpleasant vapour, and it's very inexpensive. To make it, make
up a good strong solution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) in cold
water (add the powder to the water), and when it's dissolved and not
getting any hotter, add wallpaper paste. Leave it to thicken for a
few minutes then stir.

Spread the gel over the painted surface. Really thick paint will need
to be left for a while, so to stop the gel drying out cover it with
strips of cling film. Test it with a stripping knife occasionally;
multiple layers should come away in big strips with no real effort.

Note that caustic soda will darken the underlying wood a little. It
leaves a slightly greenish tinge on standard constructional 'pine'
rather than the golden colour you eventually get from leaving new
indoor timber untreated.

Don't get the powder or the gel on your skin. Definitely don't get
it anywhere near your eyes. Some sodium hydroxide, sold as drain
cleaner, isn't pure. I seem to remember they add aluminium to it.
I have no idea what this would do to its paint stripping properties.

(No doubt caustic soda will shortly be banned. After all, it is
useful.)

Nick
--
Nick Shipman
Quatrain Information Limited

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
oups.com...
....
I use a "heat gun", i.e. like a very hot hairdryer. ...

IME useless outdoors and useless on thick, old paint. I use a large burner
on a flexible hose, fed from a small (7.5kg?) propane bottle.

Colin Bignell

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
oups.com...
...
I use a "heat gun", i.e. like a very hot hairdryer. ...

IME useless outdoors and useless on thick, old paint. I use a large
burner on a flexible hose, fed from a small (7.5kg?) propane bottle.

Colin Bignell

Correct,the heat gun will burn out in no time at all.

Torch and propane is the what the external painters use.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"John" wrote in message
...
I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house. The paint is
very thick, but in *very* bad order, with great flakes coming off in
some parts, solid as rock in other parts. In the past, I've rubbed down
and scraped, rubbed down again, then primed, undercoated etc. ... thus
really making the problem worse I guess.

I'm wondering about completely stripping one or two of the frames this
year, but the only way I can think of is to use a blow torch: are these
still used? I used to hate using a torch (very difficult to get a
uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked glass etc.),
but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult to get a uniform
result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

You just need a bit of practice and you won't scorch anything.

I have a propane torch but it gets used with the 37kW burner mostly (well
over the top for paint).
I replaced all the external wood with plastic years ago.

dennis@home wrote:
"John" wrote in message
...
I have to paint the window frames on our 45 year old house. The
paint is very thick, but in *very* bad order, with great flakes
coming off in some parts, solid as rock in other parts. In the
past, I've rubbed down and scraped, rubbed down again, then primed,
undercoated etc. ... thus really making the problem worse I guess.

I'm wondering about completely stripping one or two of the frames
this year, but the only way I can think of is to use a blow torch:
are these still used? I used to hate using a torch (very difficult
to get a uniform result, and the dangers of fire, scorching, cracked
glass etc.), but I hate Nitromors even more (*also* very difficult
to get a uniform result, and absolutely horrible stuff).

You just need a bit of practice and you won't scorch anything.

I have a propane torch but it gets used with the 37kW burner mostly
(well over the top for paint).
I replaced all the external wood with plastic years ago.

pmsl, you burnt all the frames then Dennis? ;-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"The3rd Earl Of Derby" wrote in message
. uk...

pmsl, you burnt all the frames then Dennis? ;-)

No, I did all the practice on someone else's frames.
I really hate paint.. the smell gives me a headache.

OP he thanks for all the replies, people: very instructive as ever.

I will have a look at the plumber's torch mentioned by one poster, and
also at the Nitromors "mousse" which looks less evil than traditional
Nitromors. I will also look at making my own gel (I actually have some
caustic soda in the garage! (It's next to my can of creosote.))

Most of all I like the idea of the torch with hose and gas tank, but
that would be overkill for what I'll be doing (two large frames only. I
hope.)

Of course, there's the other question, which hangs at the back of the
mind these days (into my 50s): will I ever need to do this again?!

Cheers Chaps
John

"Owain" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:
I have a propane torch but it gets used with the 37kW burner mostly (well
over the top for paint).

But bloddy marvellous for wokking?

Better for killing weeds.

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
oups.com...
...
I use a "heat gun", i.e. like a very hot hairdryer. ...

IME useless outdoors and useless on thick, old paint. I use a large

Not my experience.

burner on a flexible hose, fed from a small (7.5kg?) propane bottle.

Colin Bignell

Correct,the heat gun will burn out in no time at all.

Not so. My B&D is still going strong after 20 years.


Torch and propane is the what the external painters use.

Probably because its more convenient that having long leads trailing
about. Or they're just set in they're ways.

MBQ

wrote in message
oups.com...


Torch and propane is the what the external painters use.

Probably because its more convenient that having long leads trailing
about. Or they're just set in they're ways.


You get a lot more heat and more control from a propane torch than from an
electric heat gun.
They are also safer in the wet.

wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
oups.com...
...
I use a "heat gun", i.e. like a very hot hairdryer. ...

IME useless outdoors and useless on thick, old paint. I use a large

Not my experience.

burner on a flexible hose, fed from a small (7.5kg?) propane bottle.

Colin Bignell

Correct,the heat gun will burn out in no time at all.

Not so. My B&D is still going strong after 20 years.


Try using it on an hourly basis,you cant start a job of stripping paint and
have a blow for ten minutes at a time for the gun to cooldown.

Be there all day.


Torch and propane is the what the external painters use.

Probably because its more convenient that having long leads trailing
about. Or they're just set in they're ways.


Nothing to do with the fact that electricity might not be available at
certain jobs? :-)

MBQ



--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

John wrote:
OP he thanks for all the replies, people: very instructive as ever.

I will have a look at the plumber's torch mentioned by one poster,
and also at the Nitromors "mousse" which looks less evil than
traditional Nitromors. I will also look at making my own gel (I
actually have some caustic soda in the garage! (It's next to my can
of creosote.))

Most of all I like the idea of the torch with hose and gas tank, but
that would be overkill for what I'll be doing (two large frames only.
I hope.)

Of course, there's the other question, which hangs at the back of the
mind these days (into my 50s): will I ever need to do this again?!

Cheers Chaps
John

The gas torch is not only a paint stripper but a pipe welder ie soldering
copper pipe together and any other uses you can think of?

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The message
from "The3rd Earl Of Derby" contains these words:

The gas torch is not only a paint stripper but a pipe welder ie soldering
copper pipe together and any other uses you can think of?

They're good for starting home-made hot air baloons. The plastic film
you get your drycleaning back in is good - cut loads of panels and tape
them up. Wire hoop round the base with dangling wires carrying a bog
roll soaked in paraffin. Inflate with the torch, light the bog roll and
away it goes.

Not suitable for built up areas or times of drought, obviously.

Or anywhere else, really - but we were young.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Wed, 05 Jul 2006 09:49:21 +0100, John wrote:

Of course, there's the other question, which hangs at the back of the
mind these days (into my 50s): will I ever need to do this again?!

Depends, I fully intend to be like my father and grand father and reach
90+. In which case exterior wood work would probably need doing 3 if not
4 more times...

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

The message
from contains these words:

Hot air balloons.
Don't forget the ali foil for the radar target -- and do it under the flight
path to the airport.

Someone phoned one of our largest in to the emergency services as a full
sized balloon on fire - which indeed it looked like if you didn't know
what it was. There were police cars, fire engines and ambulances chasing
all over the place - but miles from where we were because of problems of
judging distance to an object that's about fifty times smaller than you
expect.

In retropect of course it was all very reprehensible, but at least we
were making our own entertainment. And that of all the UFO spotters who
used to gather on the North Downs over Otford to catch a glimse during a
rash of sightings on hot summer.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Try using it on an hourly basis,you cant start a job of stripping paint and
have a blow for ten minutes at a time for the gun to cooldown.

I have used it, very successfully, for extended periods.


Be there all day.

Why?



Torch and propane is the what the external painters use.

Probably because its more convenient that having long leads trailing
about. Or they're just set in they're ways.


Nothing to do with the fact that electricity might not be available at
certain jobs? :-)

Yeah, that as well.

MBQ

wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Try using it on an hourly basis,you cant start a job of stripping
paint and have a blow for ten minutes at a time for the gun to
cooldown.

I have used it, very successfully, for extended periods.


Be there all day.

Why?


The reason I changed from heat gun to propane torch was for the simple
reason when I decided to strip the paint off the bay windows ie the
sandstone structure itself,the paint underneath was very old I'd say it was
lead based as it was melting and sticking like toffee,the gun was doing the
job but the slight wind was degrading the heat from it whereas the butane
torch kept its constant heat on the matter. ;-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Guy King
saying something like:

They're good for starting home-made hot air baloons. The plastic film
you get your drycleaning back in is good - cut loads of panels and tape
them up. Wire hoop round the base with dangling wires carrying a bog
roll soaked in paraffin. Inflate with the torch, light the bog roll and
away it goes.

Must remember that for November.
--

Dave

On Wed, 05 Jul 2006 09:49:21 +0100, John wrote:

Most of all I like the idea of the torch with hose and gas tank, but
that would be overkill for what I'll be doing (two large frames only. I
hope.)

I have about 5 of the things. They're nearly as useful as angle
grinders.

Try your local council tip if you want a half-empty propane cylinder for
only a couple of quid - just buy the heaviest / sloshiest.