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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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CH Questions
I need to remove my old kitchen sink and move some of the pipe work.
Will I have to drain the hole system to do this ? (I think I have a Y Plan system) If not what do I need to do to stop the water? I will also a some point soon need to move a rad and pipework will I have to drain down for this? Have not done much work on CH so easy to follow instructions would be great. Thanks Paul |
#2
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Paul wrote: I need to remove my old kitchen sink and move some of the pipe work. Will I have to drain the hole system to do this ? (I think I have a Y Plan system) If not what do I need to do to stop the water? The water which comes out of the hot tap of your kitchen sink is (or should be!) entirely separate from the water in your heating system. The closest they get to each other is inside the hot water cylinder - where hot water from the boiler flows through an internal coil/heat exchanger, and heats the domestic hot water without the two lots mixing. So, to work on your sink, you *won't* have to drain the heating system. But you *will* have to stop the hot and cold water flowing to the taps. The cold tap is probably straight off the mains - in which case you simply need to find the main stop-cock and turn it off. Water may still come out of the tap for a bit after turning off the stop-cock, because it will be draining back from the pipes which go upstairs. So give it time to stop before disconnecting the pipework. When you open a hot tap, water flows from a cold header tank (probably in the attic) into the *bottom* of the hot water cylinder, pushing water out of the *top* connection of the cylinder - which feeds the taps. So, to turn off the hot water, you need to stop water flowing from the header into the bottom of the cylinder. Hopefully there is a tap or gate valve in the feed pipe which goes to the bottom of the cylinder. If so, turn it off. If not, you'll either have to tie up the ball valve on the header, and let all the hot water run away until it empties the header and stops running - or you'll have to interrupt the flow in some other way. One possibility is a cork in the outlet fitting at the botton of the header tank. Use a tapered one, which leaves enough to get of hold of to remove it when you've finished. I will also a some point soon need to move a rad and pipework will I have to drain down for this? You will have to partially drain the heating system for this. After turning off the whole system at the FCU, drain the radiator, as follows: Turn of both radiator valves. [If one is a thermostatic valve, remove the head and fit a positive stop cap which holds the pin firmly down at all temperatures]. Partially undo one of the union nuts which joins its valve to the tail (the bit screwed into the radiator). Catch the water which comes out. You will need to have handy a bowl or bucket big enough to hold the entire radiator contents - but you'll need smaller containers which will slide under the valve to actually catch the water - I find aluminium take-away food containers good for this. You'll also need to protect carpets etc. with plastic sheeting and old towels - black stains from central heating water are almost impossible to remove! Work on both sides of the rad (one side at a time) until no more water comes out, then disconnect the union nuts completely. You can then lift the radiator off its brackets. You still have to drain the pipework before you can work on it! Besides the large cold water header tank, you will have a smaller fill and expansion tank which feeds the primary circuit - that's the bit you want to work on. Put corks in the outlet connector at the bottom of this tank, *and* in the end of the vent pipe (the pipe which curves over the top of the tank). Close both valves on all other radiators in the house, to keep the water in. [If the system has ever been balanced, count and record how many turns it takes to close each lockshield valve so that you can put them all back to the same position]. Then go to the removed radiator position, and open each valve in turn - catching the water which comes out in a container. When no more water comes out, you can disconnect/modify the pipework. If your system has inhibitor in it (which it should!) save the water you drained out, and pour it back into the F&E tank before allowing water to flow into your neaw pipework/radiator. But let it stand for a while first, so that any black gunge collects at the bottom - and stop pouring just before you get to the black stuff. HTH. -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
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What a great idoits guide you have done for me Thanks Paul |
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"David Hansen" wrote in message ... On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 14:54:48 -0000 someone who may be "Set Square" wrote this:- When you open a hot tap, water flows from a cold header tank (probably in the attic) into the *bottom* of the hot water cylinder, pushing water out of the *top* connection of the cylinder - which feeds the taps. So, to turn off the hot water, you need to stop water flowing from the header into the bottom of the cylinder. Hopefully there is a tap or gate valve in the feed pipe which goes to the bottom of the cylinder. If so, turn it off. If not, you'll either have to tie up the ball valve on the header, and let all the hot water run away until it empties the header and stops running - or you'll have to interrupt the flow in some other way. In a sensible plumbing system, where both hot and cold (other than in the kitchen) taps are fed from a "cold header tank", it is easy to avoid running all the hot water to waste. Turn off the mains feed, or tie up the ball valve, then open a cold tap (other then the one in the kitchen). The water in the "cold header tank" will run away. After it has stopped, turn on the kitchen hot tap and a small amount of hot water will run to waste, but most of it will remain in the cylinder. Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have advantages. They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are useless for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water tank. I recall a South African friend when we both went into the loft of his new house. There was water tank. He said "what's that?" I said "the cold water tank". He replied, "that's going out, this is no farm". |
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote: Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have advantages. They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are useless for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water tank. But the previous poster was takeing as given that there is stored hot water with its associated cold water header. He was simply discussing the pros and cons of feeding the *cold* taps either from the mains or from the header tank. I don't see the relevance of your remarks to that discussion. -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
#6
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"Set Square" wrote in message ... In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Doctor Drivel wrote: Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have advantages. They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are useless for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water tank. But the previous poster was takeing as given that there is stored hot water with its associated cold water header. He was simply discussing the pros and cons of feeding the *cold* taps either from the mains or from the header tank. I don't see the relevance of your remarks to that discussion. Mr Square, you are very slow. Very slow. |
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In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. ********* From: Doctor Drivel Subject: room thermostat Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45 Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be. ********** Try and make up your mind, dribble. They are useless for showers, How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure. Assuming you wish to get clean. And in any case the pressure depends on the head. Don't you know anything? Not everyone lives in a tiny flat as you appear to do. take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water tank. Perhaps you'd be surprised to know that lids are available and should be used. It's also rather a good idea to prevent rodents entering the house. -- *If a mute swears, does his mother wash his hands with soap? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article ws.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: A senile brainwave has overcome him and..... They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. ********* From: Doctor Drivel Subject: room thermostat Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45 Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be. ********** Try and make up your mind, dribble. He obviously can't figure this out. He goes on...... They are useless for showers, How good the shower is ** snip senile tripe ** take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water tank. Perhaps you'd be surprised to know ** snip more senile tripe ** Sad? Yes, I know. Very sad. |
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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article ws.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: A senile brainwave has overcome him and..... They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. ********* From: Doctor Drivel Subject: room thermostat Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45 Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be. ********** Try and make up your mind, dribble. He obviously can't figure this out. I was hoping for an explanation of your complete about face. Fat chance. [snip the rest of since it contains no useful comment. So nothing new there.] -- *Why is the time of day with the slowest traffic called rush hour? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#10
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote: "Set Square" wrote in message ... But the previous poster was takeing as given that there is stored hot water with its associated cold water header. He was simply discussing the pros and cons of feeding the *cold* taps either from the mains or from the header tank. I don't see the relevance of your remarks to that discussion. Mr Square, you are very slow. Very slow. I think we'll let others be the judge of that! -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
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s all connected back up because of airlocks. Ideally if you are fitting a monobloc tap then just hold your hand over the spout and turn on hot and cold taps until the flow reaches back to the header tank.Don't hold on too long to prevent blowing the cylinder. There is maybe a safer way of doing this but i have never had any problem this way. |
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"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article ws.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: A senile brainwave has overcome him and..... They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. ********* From: Doctor Drivel Subject: room thermostat Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45 Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be. ********** Try and make up your mind, dribble. He obviously can't figure this out. I was hoping for an explanation of your complete about face. Richard, intelligent people will see no about face. Do you see pink fairies too? ** snip Cranium senility ** |
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 10:28:38 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Try and make up your mind, dribble. He obviously can't figure this out. I was hoping for an explanation of your complete about face. Richard, intelligent people will see no about face. So the lady's not for turning then? -- ..andy |
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 00:38:28 +0000 (GMT) someone who may be "Dave
Plowman (News)" wrote this:- They are useless for showers, How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure. Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a 22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the complication of a shower pump either. Perhaps you'd be surprised to know that lids are available and should be used. Must be used in fact. There are certainly no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks that I keep an eye on for various members of the family. -- David Hansen, Edinburgh I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54 |
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"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 10:28:38 -0000, "Doctor Drivel" wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" Try and make up your mind, dribble. He obviously can't figure this out. I was hoping for an explanation of your complete about face. Richard, intelligent people will see no about face. So the lady's not for turning then? Matt, no need to turn. |
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"David Hansen" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 00:38:28 +0000 (GMT) someone who may be "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote this:- They are useless for showers, How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure. Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a 22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the complication of a shower pump either. But you need a tall building and that over two floors is about 1 bar which is what a power shower pump may deliver. And this 22mm pipe will require a large cylinder which cost a lot to heat and a large water bills too. I have never come across dribbles from combi boilers, electric showers, yes, not combis. People want the pressure of a shower, not the flow so much. Perhaps you'd be surprised to know that lids are available and should be used. Must be used in fact. There are certainly no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks that I keep an eye on for various members of the family. Many leave them off and filth enters. Also any crud in the water accumulates in the tank. They should be drained periodically and cleaned out with special disinfectant. You can't drink the water from a tank, you can drink all the water, hot and cold, from an instantly heated system: thermal store, heat bank, combi. Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces expensive electricity consumption. |
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 12:13:59 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:- You can't drink the water from a tank, Really. Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces expensive electricity consumption. As does filling the kettle from a hot water cylinder. -- David Hansen, Edinburgh I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54 |
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"David Hansen" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 12:13:59 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor Drivel" wrote this:- You can't drink the water from a tank, Really. Well you can if you want, but foolish to do so. Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces expensive electricity consumption. As does filling the kettle from a hot water cylinder. Once again, "You can't drink the water from a tank". Or to be more specific, it is not drinking water and not recommended for drinking. Drink at your own risk |
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 15:49:11 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:- You can't drink the water from a tank, Really. Well you can if you want, but foolish to do so. Not in the least foolish, provided it is looked after as per the Water Byelaws. There is also the more important question of incompetent companies putting undesirable chemicals in the water, like fluorine, but this affects one no matter how the plumbing in the house is arranged. -- David Hansen, Edinburgh I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54 |
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"David Hansen" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 15:49:11 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor Drivel" wrote this:- You can't drink the water from a tank, Really. Well you can if you want, but foolish to do so. Not in the least foolish, provided it is looked after as per the Water Byelaws. There is also the more important question of incompetent companies putting undesirable chemicals in the water, like fluorine, but this affects one no matter how the plumbing in the house is arranged. After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits fitted with crud and insects in the water. Takes your choice. Just don't give the water to visitors and children. |
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David Hansen wrote: On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 12:13:59 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor Drivel" wrote this:- You can't drink the water from a tank, Really. Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces expensive electricity consumption. As does filling the kettle from a hot water cylinder. Neither of which actually give you hot water unless you've just been running it for something else. Otherwise all you do is draw off a slug of previously heated but now cold water from the pipe to be replaced by hot water which will then go cold in the pipe. MBQ |
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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: I was hoping for an explanation of your complete about face. Richard, intelligent people will see no about face. Do you see pink fairies too? Where can I find your mug shot? -- *Why is the time of day with the slowest traffic called rush hour? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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In article ,
David Hansen wrote: They are useless for showers, How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure. Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a 22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the complication of a shower pump either. Absolutely, But then dribble has a one bedroom ex-council flat on some depressing estate so can only fantasise about a decent shower. Perhaps you'd be surprised to know that lids are available and should be used. Must be used in fact. There are certainly no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks that I keep an eye on for various members of the family. Of course not. I doubt there are open tanks left anywhere apart from in dribble's imagination. -- *Strip mining prevents forest fires. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a 22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the complication of a shower pump either. But you need a tall building and that over two floors is about 1 bar which is what a power shower pump may deliver. No I don't. But knowing your pipework, *you* probably do. And this 22mm pipe will require a large cylinder which cost a lot to heat and a large water bills too. I don't pay for the water I use. If you were stupid enough to have a meter fitted that's your lookout. I have never come across dribbles from combi boilers, You don't get out much, do you? Thought you claimed to be some form of 'heating engineer' electric showers, yes, not combis. People want the pressure of a shower, not the flow so much. 'People' want to get clean. And this needs water, not 'pressure'. Fool. -- Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: Must be used in fact. There are certainly no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks that I keep an eye on for various members of the family. Many leave them off and filth enters. Then they're fools, like you. [snip more dribbling] Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces expensive electricity consumption. But wastes water through *your* meter. -- *Why don't you ever see the headline "Psychic Wins Lottery"? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: Must be used in fact. There are certainly no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks that I keep an eye on for various members of the family. Many leave them off and filth enters. Then they're fools, ....I posted lonely as a cloud ....That floats on high over cyberspace ....When all at once I saw this crowd, ....The host of halfwits in this place; ....Full of themselves, most are out o' the gutters, ....And a senile one who froths and stutters. ....Continuous as his caberous drivel pours ....And spurts caber tossing froth all the live-long day, ....It stretches unending out the doors ....From here unto yonder far e-bay: ....On Google ten thousand drivels saw I at a glance, ....Tossing himself in sprightly caber dance. ....The regulars dropped back as they ....were caught in halfwit repartee: ....But even a poet is stuck for what to say, ....In such sociologically-impaired company: ....For he posts and prattles with clearly no thought ....Such constant irritation to all he had brought: ....For oft, when I in my clover lie ....In vacant or in pensive mood, ....And give off a contented sigh, ....Which is the bliss of solitude; ....I note my TV screen is full of Big Brother tits, ....Which reminds me much of such drivelling halfwits. |
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"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: I was hoping for an explanation of your complete about face. Richard, intelligent people will see no about face. Do you see pink fairies too? Where can I find ....fairies are at the bottom of the garden. ** snip senile drivel ** |
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"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a 22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the complication of a shower pump either. But you need a tall building and that over two floors is about 1 bar which is what a power shower pump may deliver. No I don't. ** snip far too much drivel and senility ** |
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"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile flatulence wrote in message ... In article , David Hansen wrote: They are useless for showers, How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure. Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a 22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the complication of a shower pump either. Absolutely, ** snip didtorted senility ** A shame really, he needs better care that what he is getting. |
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at a wee bit more expence you could buy a freeze kit at again do the job live. a full drain down could result in air locks if in doubt get a nice quote from BGAS |
#32
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"gastec" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel Wrote: "David Hansen" wrote in message ... On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 14:54:48 -0000 someone who may be "Set Square" wrote this:- When you open a hot tap, water flows from a cold header tank (probably in the attic) into the *bottom* of the hot water cylinder, pushing water out of the *top* connection of the cylinder - which feeds the taps. So, to turn off the hot water, you need to stop water flowing from the header into the bottom of the cylinder. Hopefully there is a tap or gate valve in the feed pipe which goes to the bottom of the cylinder. If so, turn it off. If not, you'll either have to tie up the ball valve on the header, and let all the hot water run away until it empties the header and stops running - or you'll have to interrupt the flow in some other way. In a sensible plumbing system, where both hot and cold (other than in the kitchen) taps are fed from a "cold header tank", it is easy to avoid running all the hot water to waste. Turn off the mains feed, or tie up the ball valve, then open a cold tap (other then the one in the kitchen). The water in the "cold header tank" will run away. After it has stopped, turn on the kitchen hot tap and a small amount of hot water will run to waste, but most of it will remain in the cylinder. Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have advantages. They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are useless for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water tank. I recall a South African friend when we both went into the loft of his new house. There was water tank. He said "what's that?" I said "the cold water tank". He replied, "that's going out, this is no farm". The brain of corgi speaks.. A HEADER TANK IS FOR THE HEATING CIRCUIT (THE WEE TANK) You don't say. Wow!! A STORAGE TANK IS FOR THE DOMESTIC CIRCUIT (THE BIG TANK) Gosh!!! ** snip silly stuff ** |
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
gastec wrote: if in doubt get a nice quote from BGAS But only if you've got more money than sense! -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
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On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 23:29:33 GMT, wrote:
On 23 Nov, gastec wrote: do you finally admit that wet ch systems beat warm air hands down Having had SWMBO complaining about the slow warm up of the wet system this morning with the freezing foggy conditions, I remember the warm air system was much quicker to respond, and it was a smaller capacity too. That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very cold. -- ..andy |
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 23:29:33 GMT, wrote: On 23 Nov, gastec wrote: do you finally admit that wet ch systems beat warm air hands down Having had SWMBO complaining about the slow warm up of the wet system this morning with the freezing foggy conditions, I remember the warm air system was much quicker to respond, and it was a smaller capacity too. That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very cold. If you are in and out many times a day, you can use warm air like a big heater and just switch it off as you go out, and on when you get in. It warms up within a few minutes. Warm air in high thermal mass house works brilliantly. The mass gives out stored heat when out and a zippo warm up when you get in. A rather even temperature. |
#36
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Hall wrote: That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very cold. Andy, do you happen to know what the earliest start time is for a CM67? I had a feeling that it would start up to 2 hours before the target time - but when answering a call of nature early this morning, I found that the radiators were hot two and a half hours before the target time - so it must have started even earlier. Is this normal? -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
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"Set Square" wrote in message ... In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Andy Hall wrote: That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very cold. Andy, do you happen to know what the earliest start time is for a CM67? I had a feeling that it would start up to 2 hours before the target time - but when answering a call of nature early this morning, I found that the radiators were hot two and a half hours before the target time - so it must have started even earlier. Is this normal? A sudden cold spot can throw them out, but they learn the house and adjust to suit quickly. . |
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In article , Set Square wrote:
Andy, do you happen to know what the earliest start time is for a CM67? I had a feeling that it would start up to 2 hours before the target time - but when answering a call of nature early this morning, I found that the radiators were hot two and a half hours before the target time - so it must have started even earlier. Is this normal? This is exactly what I experienced which is why I turned optimisation off. -- Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm [Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005] |
#39
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CH Questions
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 16:15:44 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:- After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits fitted with crud and insects in the water. And I have not. -- David Hansen, Edinburgh I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54 |
#40
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"David Hansen" wrote in message ... On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 16:15:44 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor Drivel" wrote this:- After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits fitted with crud and insects in the water. And I have not. You should look in more tanks then. |
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