CH Questions
 

I need to remove my old kitchen sink and move some of the pipe work.
Will I have to drain the hole system to do this ? (I think I have a Y
Plan system) If not what do I need to do to stop the water?

I will also a some point soon need to move a rad and pipework will I
have to drain down for this?

Have not done much work on CH so easy to follow instructions would be great.

Thanks

Paul

CH Questions
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Paul wrote:

I need to remove my old kitchen sink and move some of the pipe work.
Will I have to drain the hole system to do this ? (I think I have a Y
Plan system) If not what do I need to do to stop the water?

The water which comes out of the hot tap of your kitchen sink is (or should
be!) entirely separate from the water in your heating system. The closest
they get to each other is inside the hot water cylinder - where hot water
from the boiler flows through an internal coil/heat exchanger, and heats the
domestic hot water without the two lots mixing. So, to work on your sink,
you *won't* have to drain the heating system. But you *will* have to stop
the hot and cold water flowing to the taps.

The cold tap is probably straight off the mains - in which case you simply
need to find the main stop-cock and turn it off. Water may still come out of
the tap for a bit after turning off the stop-cock, because it will be
draining back from the pipes which go upstairs. So give it time to stop
before disconnecting the pipework.

When you open a hot tap, water flows from a cold header tank (probably in
the attic) into the *bottom* of the hot water cylinder, pushing water out of
the *top* connection of the cylinder - which feeds the taps. So, to turn off
the hot water, you need to stop water flowing from the header into the
bottom of the cylinder. Hopefully there is a tap or gate valve in the feed
pipe which goes to the bottom of the cylinder. If so, turn it off. If not,
you'll either have to tie up the ball valve on the header, and let all the
hot water run away until it empties the header and stops running - or you'll
have to interrupt the flow in some other way. One possibility is a cork in
the outlet fitting at the botton of the header tank. Use a tapered one,
which leaves enough to get of hold of to remove it when you've finished.


I will also a some point soon need to move a rad and pipework will I
have to drain down for this?

You will have to partially drain the heating system for this. After turning
off the whole system at the FCU, drain the radiator, as follows:
Turn of both radiator valves. [If one is a thermostatic valve, remove the
head and fit a positive stop cap which holds the pin firmly down at all
temperatures]. Partially undo one of the union nuts which joins its valve to
the tail (the bit screwed into the radiator). Catch the water which comes
out. You will need to have handy a bowl or bucket big enough to hold the
entire radiator contents - but you'll need smaller containers which will
slide under the valve to actually catch the water - I find aluminium
take-away food containers good for this. You'll also need to protect carpets
etc. with plastic sheeting and old towels - black stains from central
heating water are almost impossible to remove! Work on both sides of the rad
(one side at a time) until no more water comes out, then disconnect the
union nuts completely. You can then lift the radiator off its brackets.

You still have to drain the pipework before you can work on it!

Besides the large cold water header tank, you will have a smaller fill and
expansion tank which feeds the primary circuit - that's the bit you want to
work on. Put corks in the outlet connector at the bottom of this tank, *and*
in the end of the vent pipe (the pipe which curves over the top of the
tank). Close both valves on all other radiators in the house, to keep the
water in. [If the system has ever been balanced, count and record how many
turns it takes to close each lockshield valve so that you can put them all
back to the same position]. Then go to the removed radiator position, and
open each valve in turn - catching the water which comes out in a container.
When no more water comes out, you can disconnect/modify the pipework.

If your system has inhibitor in it (which it should!) save the water you
drained out, and pour it back into the F&E tank before allowing water to
flow into your neaw pipework/radiator. But let it stand for a while first,
so that any black gunge collects at the bottom - and stop pouring just
before you get to the black stuff.

HTH.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

CH Questions
 

What a great idoits guide you have done for me

Thanks

Paul

CH Questions
 

"David Hansen" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 14:54:48 -0000 someone who may be "Set Square"
wrote this:-

When you open a hot tap, water flows from a cold header tank (probably in
the attic) into the *bottom* of the hot water cylinder, pushing water out
of
the *top* connection of the cylinder - which feeds the taps. So, to turn
off
the hot water, you need to stop water flowing from the header into the
bottom of the cylinder. Hopefully there is a tap or gate valve in the
feed
pipe which goes to the bottom of the cylinder. If so, turn it off. If
not,
you'll either have to tie up the ball valve on the header, and let all
the
hot water run away until it empties the header and stops running - or
you'll
have to interrupt the flow in some other way.

In a sensible plumbing system, where both hot and cold (other than
in the kitchen) taps are fed from a "cold header tank", it is easy
to avoid running all the hot water to waste. Turn off the mains
feed, or tie up the ball valve, then open a cold tap (other then the
one in the kitchen). The water in the "cold header tank" will run
away. After it has stopped, turn on the kitchen hot tap and a small
amount of hot water will run to waste, but most of it will remain in
the cylinder.

Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have
advantages.

They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are useless
for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can
accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water tank.

I recall a South African friend when we both went into the loft of his new
house. There was water tank. He said "what's that?" I said "the cold water
tank". He replied, "that's going out, this is no farm".

CH Questions
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have
advantages.

They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are
useless for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of
pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the
cold water tank.

But the previous poster was takeing as given that there is stored hot water
with its associated cold water header. He was simply discussing the pros and
cons of feeding the *cold* taps either from the mains or from the header
tank. I don't see the relevance of your remarks to that discussion.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

CH Questions
 

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have
advantages.

They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are
useless for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of
pipework, can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the
cold water tank.

But the previous poster was takeing as given that there is stored hot
water
with its associated cold water header. He was simply discussing the pros
and
cons of feeding the *cold* taps either from the mains or from the header
tank. I don't see the relevance of your remarks to that discussion.

Mr Square, you are very slow. Very slow.

CH Questions
 

In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all.

*********

From: Doctor Drivel
Subject: room thermostat
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y

You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be.

**********

Try and make up your mind, dribble.

They are useless for showers,

How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure. Assuming
you wish to get clean. And in any case the pressure depends on the head.
Don't you know anything? Not everyone lives in a tiny flat as you appear
to do.

take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework,
can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water
tank.

Perhaps you'd be surprised to know that lids are available and should be
used. It's also rather a good idea to prevent rodents entering the house.

--
*If a mute swears, does his mother wash his hands with soap?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

CH Questions
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

A senile brainwave has overcome him and.....

They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all.

*********

From: Doctor Drivel
Subject: room thermostat
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y

You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be.

**********

Try and make up your mind, dribble.

He obviously can't figure this out. He goes on......

They are useless for showers,

How good the shower is

** snip senile tripe **

take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework,
can accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water
tank.

Perhaps you'd be surprised to know

** snip more senile tripe **

Sad? Yes, I know. Very sad.

CH Questions
 

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

A senile brainwave has overcome him and.....

They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all.

*********

From: Doctor Drivel
Subject: room thermostat
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y

You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be.

**********

Try and make up your mind, dribble.

He obviously can't figure this out.

I was hoping for an explanation of your complete about face. Fat chance.

[snip the rest of since it contains no useful comment. So nothing new
there.]

--
*Why is the time of day with the slowest traffic called rush hour?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

CH Questions
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Set Square" wrote in message
...

But the previous poster was takeing as given that there is stored
hot water with its associated cold water header. He was simply
discussing the pros and cons of feeding the *cold* taps either from
the mains or from the header tank. I don't see the relevance of your
remarks to that discussion.

Mr Square, you are very slow. Very slow.

I think we'll let others be the judge of that!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Sorry to butt in on this one but one thing the helpful poster didn't mention was how to bleed the system when the sink is replaced?? Chances are on this system water will not flow from the hot tap when it iaa
s all connected back up because of airlocks.
Ideally if you are fitting a monobloc tap then just hold your hand over the spout and turn on hot and cold taps until the flow reaches back to the header tank.Don't hold on too long to prevent blowing the cylinder.
There is maybe a safer way of doing this but i have never had any problem this way.

CH Questions
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ws.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

A senile brainwave has overcome him and.....

They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all.

*********

From: Doctor Drivel
Subject: room thermostat
Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2005 08:45
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y

You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be.

**********

Try and make up your mind, dribble.

He obviously can't figure this out.

I was hoping for an explanation
of your complete about face.

Richard, intelligent people will see no about face. Do you see pink fairies
too?

** snip Cranium senility **

CH Questions
 

On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 10:28:38 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)"

Try and make up your mind, dribble.

He obviously can't figure this out.

I was hoping for an explanation
of your complete about face.

Richard, intelligent people will see no about face.


So the lady's not for turning then?


--

..andy

CH Questions
 

On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 00:38:28 +0000 (GMT) someone who may be "Dave
Plowman (News)" wrote this:-

They are useless for showers,

How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure.

Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a
22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the
shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the
relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the
complication of a shower pump either.

Perhaps you'd be surprised to know that lids are available and should be
used.

Must be used in fact. There are certainly no rodents (or birds) in
any of the cold tanks that I keep an eye on for various members of
the family.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

CH Questions
 

"Andy Hall" aka Matt wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 10:28:38 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)"

Try and make up your mind, dribble.

He obviously can't figure this out.

I was hoping for an explanation
of your complete about face.

Richard, intelligent people will see no about face.

So the lady's not for turning then?

Matt, no need to turn.

CH Questions
 

"David Hansen" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 00:38:28 +0000 (GMT) someone who may be "Dave
Plowman (News)" wrote this:-

They are useless for showers,

How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure.

Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a
22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the
shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the
relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the
complication of a shower pump either.

But you need a tall building and that over two floors is about 1 bar which
is what a power shower pump may deliver. And this 22mm pipe will require a
large cylinder which cost a lot to heat and a large water bills too. I have
never come across dribbles from combi boilers, electric showers, yes, not
combis. People want the pressure of a shower, not the flow so much.

Perhaps you'd be surprised to
know that lids are available and should be
used.

Must be used in fact. There are certainly
no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks
that I keep an eye on for various members of
the family.

Many leave them off and filth enters. Also any crud in the water accumulates
in the tank. They should be drained periodically and cleaned out with
special disinfectant.

You can't drink the water from a tank, you can drink all the water, hot and
cold, from an instantly heated system: thermal store, heat bank, combi.

Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces
expensive electricity consumption.

CH Questions
 

On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 12:13:59 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:-

You can't drink the water from a tank,

Really.

Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces
expensive electricity consumption.

As does filling the kettle from a hot water cylinder.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

CH Questions
 

"David Hansen" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 12:13:59 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:-

You can't drink the water from a tank,

Really.

Well you can if you want, but foolish to do so.

Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles
reduces
expensive electricity consumption.

As does filling the kettle from a hot water cylinder.

Once again, "You can't drink the water from a tank". Or to be more
specific, it is not drinking water and not recommended for drinking. Drink
at your own risk

CH Questions
 

On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 15:49:11 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:-

You can't drink the water from a tank,

Really.

Well you can if you want, but foolish to do so.

Not in the least foolish, provided it is looked after as per the
Water Byelaws.

There is also the more important question of incompetent companies
putting undesirable chemicals in the water, like fluorine, but this
affects one no matter how the plumbing in the house is arranged.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

CH Questions
 

"David Hansen" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 15:49:11 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:-

You can't drink the water from a tank,

Really.

Well you can if you want, but foolish to do so.

Not in the least foolish, provided it is looked after as per the
Water Byelaws.

There is also the more important question of incompetent companies
putting undesirable chemicals in the water, like fluorine, but this
affects one no matter how the plumbing in the house is arranged.

After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits
fitted with crud and insects in the water. Takes your choice. Just don't
give the water to visitors and children.

CH Questions
 

David Hansen wrote:
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 12:13:59 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:-

You can't drink the water from a tank,

Really.

Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles reduces
expensive electricity consumption.

As does filling the kettle from a hot water cylinder.

Neither of which actually give you hot water unless you've just been
running it for something else. Otherwise all you do is draw off a slug
of previously heated but now cold water from the pipe to be replaced by
hot water which will then go cold in the pipe.

MBQ

CH Questions
 

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
I was hoping for an explanation
of your complete about face.

Richard, intelligent people will see no about face. Do you see pink
fairies too?

Where can I find your mug shot?

--
*Why is the time of day with the slowest traffic called rush hour?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

CH Questions
 

In article ,
David Hansen wrote:
They are useless for showers,

How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure.

Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a
22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the
shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the
relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the
complication of a shower pump either.

Absolutely, But then dribble has a one bedroom ex-council flat on some
depressing estate so can only fantasise about a decent shower.

Perhaps you'd be surprised to know that lids are available and should be
used.

Must be used in fact. There are certainly no rodents (or birds) in
any of the cold tanks that I keep an eye on for various members of
the family.

Of course not. I doubt there are open tanks left anywhere apart from in
dribble's imagination.

--
*Strip mining prevents forest fires.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

CH Questions
 

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a
22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the
shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the
relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the
complication of a shower pump either.

But you need a tall building and that over two floors is about 1 bar
which is what a power shower pump may deliver.

No I don't. But knowing your pipework, *you* probably do.

And this 22mm pipe will require a large cylinder which cost a lot to
heat and a large water bills too.

I don't pay for the water I use. If you were stupid enough to have a meter
fitted that's your lookout.

I have never come across dribbles from combi boilers,

You don't get out much, do you? Thought you claimed to be some form of
'heating engineer'

electric showers,
yes, not combis.

People want the pressure of a shower, not the flow so
much.

'People' want to get clean. And this needs water, not 'pressure'. Fool.

--


Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

CH Questions
 

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:
Must be used in fact. There are certainly
no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks
that I keep an eye on for various members of
the family.

Many leave them off and filth enters.

Then they're fools, like you.

[snip more dribbling]

Using the hot water of mains pressure systems when filling kettles
reduces expensive electricity consumption.

But wastes water through *your* meter.

--
*Why don't you ever see the headline "Psychic Wins Lottery"?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

CH Questions
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Must be used in fact. There are certainly
no rodents (or birds) in any of the cold tanks
that I keep an eye on for various members of
the family.

Many leave them off and filth enters.

Then they're fools,

....I posted lonely as a cloud
....That floats on high over cyberspace
....When all at once I saw this crowd,
....The host of halfwits in this place;
....Full of themselves, most are out o' the gutters,
....And a senile one who froths and stutters.

....Continuous as his caberous drivel pours
....And spurts caber tossing froth all the live-long day,
....It stretches unending out the doors
....From here unto yonder far e-bay:
....On Google ten thousand drivels saw I at a glance,
....Tossing himself in sprightly caber dance.

....The regulars dropped back as they
....were caught in halfwit repartee:
....But even a poet is stuck for what to say,
....In such sociologically-impaired company:
....For he posts and prattles with clearly no thought
....Such constant irritation to all he had brought:

....For oft, when I in my clover lie
....In vacant or in pensive mood,
....And give off a contented sigh,
....Which is the bliss of solitude;
....I note my TV screen is full of Big Brother tits,
....Which reminds me much of such drivelling halfwits.

CH Questions
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

I was hoping for an explanation
of your complete about face.

Richard, intelligent people will see no
about face. Do you see pink
fairies too?

Where can I find

....fairies are at the bottom of the garden.

** snip senile drivel **

CH Questions
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a
22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the
shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the
relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the
complication of a shower pump either.

But you need a tall building and that over two floors is about 1 bar
which is what a power shower pump may deliver.

No I don't.

** snip far too much drivel and senility **

CH Questions
 

"Dave Plowman (News)" through a haze of senile
flatulence wrote in message ...
In article ,
David Hansen wrote:
They are useless for showers,

How good the shower is depends on the flow - not just pressure.

Indeed. A 22mm connection from a shower boss on the cylinder and a
22mm connection from the cold tank (over two floors higher than the
shower) gives rather more in the way of a satisfying shower than the
relative dribble from a combination boiler. No need for the
complication of a shower pump either.

Absolutely,

** snip didtorted senility **

A shame really, he needs better care that what he is getting.

A HEADER TANK IS FOR THE HEATING CIRCUIT (THE WEE TANK)
A STORAGE TANK IS FOR THE DOMESTIC CIRCUIT (THE BIG TANK)

unless you have a primatic tank that its...

dr drivel ,,,,,,,,you did not know that??? anyway the warm air question has still to be answered

do you finally admit that wet ch systems beat warm air hands down

If you have a conventional system with header tank and intend to perform short duration work moving your rad it is possible to perform the task live using BUNGS,,They cost £15 at the plumbing store and have instructions in the pack...

at a wee bit more expence you could buy a freeze kit at again do the job live.

a full drain down could result in air locks

if in doubt get a nice quote from BGAS

CH Questions
 

"gastec" wrote in message
...

Doctor Drivel Wrote:
"David Hansen" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 14:54:48 -0000 someone who may be "Set Square"
wrote this:-

When you open a hot tap, water flows from a cold header tank (probably
in
the attic) into the *bottom* of the hot water cylinder, pushing water
out
of
the *top* connection of the cylinder - which feeds the taps. So, to
turn
off
the hot water, you need to stop water flowing from the header into
the
bottom of the cylinder. Hopefully there is a tap or gate valve in the
feed
pipe which goes to the bottom of the cylinder. If so, turn it off. If
not,
you'll either have to tie up the ball valve on the header, and let
all
the
hot water run away until it empties the header and stops running - or
you'll
have to interrupt the flow in some other way.

In a sensible plumbing system, where both hot and cold (other than
in the kitchen) taps are fed from a "cold header tank", it is easy
to avoid running all the hot water to waste. Turn off the mains
feed, or tie up the ball valve, then open a cold tap (other then the
one in the kitchen). The water in the "cold header tank" will run
away. After it has stopped, turn on the kitchen hot tap and a small
amount of hot water will run to waste, but most of it will remain in
the cylinder.

Such systems may not be fashionable amongst some, but they do have
advantages.

They are simple reliable and no moving parts. That's all. They are
useless
for showers, take up much needed space, use a lot of pipework, can
accumulate debris and the occasional dead rodent in the cold water
tank.

I recall a South African friend when we both went into the loft of his
new
house. There was water tank. He said "what's that?" I said "the cold
water
tank". He replied, "that's going out, this is no farm".

The brain of corgi speaks..

A HEADER TANK IS FOR THE HEATING
CIRCUIT (THE WEE TANK)

You don't say. Wow!!

A STORAGE TANK IS FOR THE DOMESTIC CIRCUIT (THE BIG TANK)

Gosh!!!

** snip silly stuff **

CH Questions
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
gastec wrote:


if in doubt get a nice quote from BGAS


But only if you've got more money than sense!
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

CH Questions
 

On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 23:29:33 GMT, wrote:

On 23 Nov,
gastec wrote:


do you finally admit that wet ch systems beat warm air hands down

Having had SWMBO complaining about the slow warm up of the wet system this
morning with the freezing foggy conditions, I remember the warm air system
was much quicker to respond, and it was a smaller capacity too.


That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning
capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very
cold.



--

..andy

CH Questions
 

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 23:29:33 GMT, wrote:

On 23 Nov,
gastec wrote:


do you finally admit that wet ch systems beat warm air hands down

Having had SWMBO complaining about the slow warm up of the wet system
this
morning with the freezing foggy conditions, I remember the warm air
system
was much quicker to respond, and it was a smaller capacity too.

That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning
capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very
cold.

If you are in and out many times a day, you can use warm air like a big
heater and just switch it off as you go out, and on when you get in. It
warms up within a few minutes.

Warm air in high thermal mass house works brilliantly. The mass gives out
stored heat when out and a zippo warm up when you get in. A rather even
temperature.

CH Questions
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Hall wrote:


That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning
capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very
cold.

Andy, do you happen to know what the earliest start time is for a CM67? I
had a feeling that it would start up to 2 hours before the target time - but
when answering a call of nature early this morning, I found that the
radiators were hot two and a half hours before the target time - so it must
have started even earlier. Is this normal?
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

CH Questions
 

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Hall wrote:


That's easily addressed by having a thermostat with learning
capability which will start the heating a little earlier if it's very
cold.

Andy, do you happen to know what the earliest start time is for a CM67? I
had a feeling that it would start up to 2 hours before the target time -
but
when answering a call of nature early this morning, I found that the
radiators were hot two and a half hours before the target time - so it
must
have started even earlier. Is this normal?

A sudden cold spot can throw them out, but they learn the house and adjust
to suit quickly. .

CH Questions
 

In article , Set Square wrote:
Andy, do you happen to know what the earliest start time is for a CM67? I
had a feeling that it would start up to 2 hours before the target time - but
when answering a call of nature early this morning, I found that the
radiators were hot two and a half hours before the target time - so it
must have started even earlier. Is this normal?

This is exactly what I experienced which is why I turned optimisation off.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]

CH Questions
 

On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 16:15:44 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:-

After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits
fitted with crud and insects in the water.

And I have not.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

CH Questions
 

"David Hansen" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 23 Nov 2005 16:15:44 -0000 someone who may be "Doctor
Drivel" wrote this:-

After only a few years I have seen tanks with proper lids and by-law kits
fitted with crud and insects in the water.

And I have not.

You should look in more tanks then.