Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Insulating single skinned brick garage.
I want to batten the walls and install some insulation, but I want to
make sure it's rodent resistant/proof. Probably use exterior grade osb on the inside, but what insulation to use ? rockwool or Glass fibre mat ? What would mice etc not like to nest in is probably the query. Also need to insulate an up and over garage door, what's best to stick on here. Clearly I won't be skinning it over with wood due to excess weight. How about around the edges where the gaps are ? Thanks Paul. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Also need to insulate an up and over garage door, what's best to stick on here. Clearly I won't be skinning it over with wood due to excess weight. How about around the edges where the gaps are ? Thanks Paul. I have a recipe for all of this which I've posted a few times, Paul. [snip loads of fine detailed sound advice] .andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl I bet your house is the opposite to those featured on DIY SOS, Andy! Everything shipshape - but you still have loads of DIY dreams and plans to mull over. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 23:37:52 +0100, "Suz" wrote:
Also need to insulate an up and over garage door, what's best to stick on here. Clearly I won't be skinning it over with wood due to excess weight. How about around the edges where the gaps are ? Thanks Paul. I have a recipe for all of this which I've posted a few times, Paul. [snip loads of fine detailed sound advice] .andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl I bet your house is the opposite to those featured on DIY SOS, Andy! Everything shipshape - but you still have loads of DIY dreams and plans to mull over. I wish it was. Plenty of ideas, but never enough time to implement all of them. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
On 27 Sep 2005 02:18:27 -0700, wrote:
Andy Hall wrote: On 26 Sep 2005 08:45:33 -0700, wrote: I want to batten the walls and install some insulation, but I want to make sure it's rodent resistant/proof. Probably use exterior grade osb on the inside, but what insulation to use ? rockwool or Glass fibre mat ? What would mice etc not like to nest in is probably the query. Also need to insulate an up and over garage door, what's best to stick on here. Clearly I won't be skinning it over with wood due to excess weight. How about around the edges where the gaps are ? I have a recipe for all of this which I've posted a few times, Paul. My garage has a pitched, trussed, felted roof. snip goodstuff Thanks Andy, This is something I look at every year, just when the first cold snap hits ;-) Yep. For me it was wanting to go out and spend sometimes short periods doing something and it taking ages to warm the place up. I think the walls and door are priority #1 as it'll give me the best return on time investment. Yes. The doors definitely first. If you have a steel or wooden (e.g. ply with timber frame) door, then the U value will be very high. After that, it's walls and roof. Doing the roof was fiddly because of cutting shapes to fit the spaces and getting them into place. The walls were fairly quick. "15mm air gap behind. Filled frame with 50mm Celotex." Hmm, where's the air gap ? As you look at the wall, imagine a timber frame constructed from 75x50mm timber. It is fastened to the joists at the top and floor at the bottom and is spaced off 15mm from the wall at the back. 50mm Celotex is interference fitted into the frame and seams are taped with foil tape. The result is a 15mm gap between the back of the frame and Celotex assembly and the wall. This is open to the soffit vents and gives ventilation of the inner face of the wall and up behind the roof insulation as well. The front face of the frames have 18mm ply fitted to it and then painted to reflect as much light as possible. I can fix most things directly to the ply, but heavy items such as my dust extractor (75kg) can be fitted directly to the studs. So, batten the floor too then when framing ? not just put the board down to floor level ? The floor is concrete. I didn't do the floor. I calculated that doing so would have saved about 1kW of heating (reduced 3-4kW down to about 2.5kW. However, I didn't want to lose the height because the ceiling joists are only at 2440mm above the floor. Added to this, I would have had to use quite a lot of timber to support the woodworking machinery - combination machine weighing around 1000kg. However, if it were to be used for something like a games room etc. then I would have done the floor. Nevertheless, the floor is never a problem in terms of feeling cold. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Andy Hall wrote: zymurgy wrote: Andy Hall wrote: zymurgy wrote: snip goodstuff The front face of the frames have 18mm ply fitted to it and then painted to reflect as much light as possible. I'd like to do it with ply, but I think that'll be a lot more expensive than OSB. Why did you choose Ply over MDF, OSB or Chipboard ? So, batten the floor too then when framing ? not just put the board down to floor level ? The floor is concrete. I didn't do the floor. Sorry, I wasn't clear, I mean put the framing horizontally, as well as vertically. I can batten the wall directly as it's brick, so quite easy to plug and screw to, but I was toying with the idea of not putting a horizontal batten on the floor. maybe I should and put a piece of DPC under it. Added to this, I would have had to use quite a lot of timber to support the woodworking machinery - combination machine weighing around 1000kg. This is a garage, so it'll have to stay conctrete on the floor incase I put the car in to work on .. Nevertheless, the floor is never a problem in terms of feeling cold. Any ideas where I can get some of that industrial rubber lattice mat they use in workshops at a reasonable price. I think if i'm off the floor by the workbench it won't feel quite so cold on the feet. Paul. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
On 30 Sep 2005 03:37:52 -0700, wrote:
Andy Hall wrote: zymurgy wrote: Andy Hall wrote: zymurgy wrote: snip goodstuff The front face of the frames have 18mm ply fitted to it and then painted to reflect as much light as possible. I'd like to do it with ply, but I think that'll be a lot more expensive than OSB. Why did you choose Ply over MDF, OSB or Chipboard ? Quality, strength and longevity, really. Although the garage does not have damp issues, I was not enthusiastic about using chipboard or MDF for deterioration and strength reasons. Possibly OSB would be a reasonable second choice after ply. So, batten the floor too then when framing ? not just put the board down to floor level ? The floor is concrete. I didn't do the floor. Sorry, I wasn't clear, I mean put the framing horizontally, as well as vertically. I can batten the wall directly as it's brick, so quite easy to plug and screw to, but I was toying with the idea of not putting a horizontal batten on the floor. maybe I should and put a piece of DPC under it. I made rectangular frames with pieces projecting vertically to attach to the joists. I put DPC material under the horizontal parts of the frames at the bottom and bolted through them into the floor. I didn't want to fix frames to the wall at all to allow ventilation behind. Added to this, I would have had to use quite a lot of timber to support the woodworking machinery - combination machine weighing around 1000kg. This is a garage, so it'll have to stay conctrete on the floor incase I put the car in to work on .. OK. I don't use the garage for cars at all. They belong outside AFAIAC and car repairers can work on them :-) Using a good quality epoxy floor paint has been well worthwhile. Nevertheless, the floor is never a problem in terms of feeling cold. Any ideas where I can get some of that industrial rubber lattice mat they use in workshops at a reasonable price. I think if i'm off the floor by the workbench it won't feel quite so cold on the feet. Mr Grunff helped me here. Horse mats are moderately inexpensive, relatively speaking http://www.sovereign-rubber.co.uk/ I didn't want to use the lattice type because it is a PITA to clean sawdust etc. out of it. Paul. -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Can A Garage Be TOO Big? | Metalworking | |||
HELP: Garage Heater Recommendation | Home Ownership | |||
Building an Extension (Garage and Block Selection) | UK diy | |||
Garage Conversion | UK diy | |||
Building a garage above public sewer (UK) | UK diy |