On 27 Sep 2005 02:18:27 -0700, wrote:


Andy Hall wrote:
On 26 Sep 2005 08:45:33 -0700, wrote:

I want to batten the walls and install some insulation, but I want to
make sure it's rodent resistant/proof.

Probably use exterior grade osb on the inside, but what insulation to
use ? rockwool or Glass fibre mat ?

What would mice etc not like to nest in is probably the query.

Also need to insulate an up and over garage door, what's best to stick
on here. Clearly I won't be skinning it over with wood due to excess
weight. How about around the edges where the gaps are ?

I have a recipe for all of this which I've posted a few times, Paul.

My garage has a pitched, trussed, felted roof.

snip goodstuff

Thanks Andy,

This is something I look at every year, just when the first cold snap
hits ;-)

Yep. For me it was wanting to go out and spend sometimes short
periods doing something and it taking ages to warm the place up.



I think the walls and door are priority #1 as it'll give me the best
return on time investment.

Yes. The doors definitely first. If you have a steel or wooden
(e.g. ply with timber frame) door, then the U value will be very high.

After that, it's walls and roof. Doing the roof was fiddly because
of cutting shapes to fit the spaces and getting them into place. The
walls were fairly quick.





"15mm air gap behind. Filled frame with 50mm Celotex."

Hmm, where's the air gap ?

As you look at the wall, imagine a timber frame constructed from
75x50mm timber. It is fastened to the joists at the top and floor at
the bottom and is spaced off 15mm from the wall at the back. 50mm
Celotex is interference fitted into the frame and seams are taped with
foil tape. The result is a 15mm gap between the back of the frame
and Celotex assembly and the wall. This is open to the soffit vents
and gives ventilation of the inner face of the wall and up behind the
roof insulation as well.

The front face of the frames have 18mm ply fitted to it and then
painted to reflect as much light as possible. I can fix most things
directly to the ply, but heavy items such as my dust extractor (75kg)
can be fitted directly to the studs.



So, batten the floor too then when framing ? not just put the board
down to floor level ? The floor is concrete.

I didn't do the floor. I calculated that doing so would have saved
about 1kW of heating (reduced 3-4kW down to about 2.5kW. However, I
didn't want to lose the height because the ceiling joists are only at
2440mm above the floor. Added to this, I would have had to use
quite a lot of timber to support the woodworking machinery -
combination machine weighing around 1000kg.

However, if it were to be used for something like a games room etc.
then I would have done the floor. Nevertheless, the floor is never
a problem in terms of feeling cold.


--

..andy

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