In the next few days I'm going to be joining some worktops.
I've got a decent router and bicuit jointer so plan to reinforce the
joint with biscuits; edges will be rough cut from the back with a
circular saw and then trimmed smooth with the router. I plan to hire (or
buy?) a worktop mitre jig - any advice to improve the chances of success?

Dave

Andy Hall wrote:
On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 12:19:32 +0000 (UTC), Dave
wrote:


In the next few days I'm going to be joining some worktops.
I've got a decent router and bicuit jointer so plan to reinforce the
joint with biscuits; edges will be rough cut from the back with a
circular saw and then trimmed smooth with the router. I plan to hire (or
buy?) a worktop mitre jig - any advice to improve the chances of success?

Dave



I've recently done this to make a desk for my office. I needed to
have a section across a corner so it involved joining three sections
with 135 degree angles.

I used a DW625 router and long bits, and a jig with the correct
postform slots and cutout for "dog bone" connectors.

I think that the following were useful:-

- Router and good quality bits like Freud or CMT to do the cutting.
If you have a powerful 12.7mm one, there is no point in the circular
saw.

- Mitre jig. As you say either rent one or buy and Ebay afterwards if
you don't want to keep it.

- Plenty of clamps to hold down mitre jig

- Flat surface to work on and make sure that sections are properly
aligned.

- Biscuits are useful for vertical alignment but are not going to do a
huge amount in terms of reinforcement. I used pairs of biscuits at
different depths (Lamello joiner or turn the worktop over) and spaced
about 150mm apart across the joint.

- Dog bone connectors to pull the joint together. This works well
but does not align the worktops vertically. The biscuits do that.

- Once the pieces were cut, I trial fitted them together in the
workshop before moving them to the office. I installed the
supporting frame (cabinets in the case of a kitchen) and aligned them
carefully with a long level so that they were level in themselves and
with the adjacent cabinets.

- The worktop can then be fitted into place, biscuits inserted (dry to
begin with) and a final check done for alignment and level. Then
apply glue to biscuits and mating surfaces. I was using woodblock
worktops, so white glue was fine - chipboard might need a different
glue. Finally, the connectors can be inserted and tightened to pull
the joint together.





Thanks Andy.
How easy was it to get the jig in the right place? I was assuming it
would come with screw holes so it could be screwed to the underside of
the worktops; clamps must be a pita.

Anybody any suggestions on how to guarantee that the joint is sealed?

anybody got a jig to flog?

Dave

Anybody any suggestions on how to guarantee that the joint is sealed?

anybody got a jig to flog?

Dave

I have a spare Screwfix one, strong tuffnol, in good nick (ie, no nicks in
the guide slot!) - it will need some alignment pegs (part number 10918,
£3.99 - I could probably pick those up for you). I'm based in NW2 but the
jig is in SW19... If you want to make me an offer... ;-) (phone is 07779
263595)

The best way to seal a joint is to use a colour matched combined
sealant/adhesive such as Colorfill (available in a vast range of colours
from worktop supplies and in a more basic selection from larger DIY shops)
(see http://www.unika.co.uk/unikapdfs/new...en_booklet.pdf )

I have also used ordinary glued biscuit joints and run a bead of coloured
silicone sealant around the edges so it squeezes out and then cleaned up the
mess with solvent (the Colorfill one is great, white spirit suffices in a
messy sort of way). This works well for black, brown and other common
colours of silicone. It is much cheaper and the coloured silicone may well
be usefull sealing the worktop to the wall or cabinets.

By the way, when sealing between a worktop and tiled splashback, I prefer to
cover the worktop with strips of hardboard covered in clingfilm. The
worktop, hence hardboard, should be set dead level and tiles can be set from
this datum. The board protects the worktop from tile adhesive, sharp cut
tiles and careless tilers and as the adhesive doesn't stick much to the
clingfilm, the whole lot can be slid out when the tiles are set solid (and
grouted if you prefer). This leaves a nice 3mm recess which takes a bead of
sealant much more effectively than just running it along a rightangled join.

Other points when cutting the mitre - use a sharp, quality cutter, work in
small passes, run the bush against the "waste edge" of the jig's slot until
you have cut all the way through and then a nice smooth pass along the good
edge to finish the cut. Practice on some scraps if you have the luxury of
spare material. Lastly, remember there will be huge amounts of dust from
routing the chipboard core so take precautions to protect your health and
your workplace.

Good luck!
Adrian

"Dave" wrote in message
...
In the next few days I'm going to be joining some worktops.
I've got a decent router and bicuit jointer so plan to reinforce the
joint with biscuits; edges will be rough cut from the back with a
circular saw and then trimmed smooth with the router. I plan to hire (or
buy?) a worktop mitre jig - any advice to improve the chances of success?

Dave

I hired a trend Jig for kitchen worktop (with router) You need the guide for the
router that makes it follow the slot in the Jig.

The Jig let me cut T slots for clamps to hold the two halves together.

I used the Trend coloured glue/sealant.

Also:
Ear defenders for the router, and tolerant neighbours if working outside!

I read the Jig instructions on:

http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/homepage/

--

Michael Chare

On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 14:39:58 +0000 (UTC), Dave
wrote:


Thanks Andy.
How easy was it to get the jig in the right place?

Very - most of them locate with pegs

I was assuming it
would come with screw holes so it could be screwed to the underside of
the worktops; clamps must be a pita.

You could make holes for screwing down, but obviously not if you rent
the jig. I already hae a bunch of clamps anyway for woodworking but
three or so cheap G clamps or similar would be fine.



Anybody any suggestions on how to guarantee that the joint is sealed?

Silicone sealer in the joint




anybody got a jig to flog?

Dave


--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

Adrian Berry wrote:
Anybody any suggestions on how to guarantee that the joint is sealed?

anybody got a jig to flog?

Dave


I have a spare Screwfix one, strong tuffnol, in good nick (ie, no nicks in
the guide slot!) - it will need some alignment pegs (part number 10918,
£3.99 - I could probably pick those up for you). I'm based in NW2 but the
jig is in SW19... If you want to make me an offer... ;-) (phone is 07779
263595)

The best way to seal a joint is to use a colour matched combined
sealant/adhesive such as Colorfill (available in a vast range of colours
from worktop supplies and in a more basic selection from larger DIY shops)
(see http://www.unika.co.uk/unikapdfs/new...en_booklet.pdf )

I have also used ordinary glued biscuit joints and run a bead of coloured
silicone sealant around the edges so it squeezes out and then cleaned up the
mess with solvent (the Colorfill one is great, white spirit suffices in a
messy sort of way). This works well for black, brown and other common
colours of silicone. It is much cheaper and the coloured silicone may well
be usefull sealing the worktop to the wall or cabinets.

By the way, when sealing between a worktop and tiled splashback, I prefer to
cover the worktop with strips of hardboard covered in clingfilm. The
worktop, hence hardboard, should be set dead level and tiles can be set from
this datum. The board protects the worktop from tile adhesive, sharp cut
tiles and careless tilers and as the adhesive doesn't stick much to the
clingfilm, the whole lot can be slid out when the tiles are set solid (and
grouted if you prefer). This leaves a nice 3mm recess which takes a bead of
sealant much more effectively than just running it along a rightangled join.

Other points when cutting the mitre - use a sharp, quality cutter, work in
small passes, run the bush against the "waste edge" of the jig's slot until
you have cut all the way through and then a nice smooth pass along the good
edge to finish the cut. Practice on some scraps if you have the luxury of
spare material. Lastly, remember there will be huge amounts of dust from
routing the chipboard core so take precautions to protect your health and
your workplace.

Good luck!
Adrian



Thanks for the advice Adrian, which jig have you got? I've got some 650
tops so need the 18953.

Dave

"Dave" wrote in message
...
Adrian Berry wrote:
Anybody any suggestions on how to guarantee that the joint is sealed?

anybody got a jig to flog?

Dave


I have a spare Screwfix one, strong tuffnol, in good nick (ie, no nicks
in
the guide slot!) - it will need some alignment pegs (part number 10918,
£3.99 - I could probably pick those up for you). I'm based in NW2 but the
jig is in SW19... If you want to make me an offer... ;-) (phone is 07779
263595)

The best way to seal a joint is to use a colour matched combined
sealant/adhesive such as Colorfill (available in a vast range of colours
from worktop supplies and in a more basic selection from larger DIY
shops)
(see http://www.unika.co.uk/unikapdfs/new...en_booklet.pdf )

I have also used ordinary glued biscuit joints and run a bead of
coloured
silicone sealant around the edges so it squeezes out and then cleaned up
the
mess with solvent (the Colorfill one is great, white spirit suffices in a
messy sort of way). This works well for black, brown and other common
colours of silicone. It is much cheaper and the coloured silicone may
well
be usefull sealing the worktop to the wall or cabinets.

By the way, when sealing between a worktop and tiled splashback, I prefer
to
cover the worktop with strips of hardboard covered in clingfilm. The
worktop, hence hardboard, should be set dead level and tiles can be set
from
this datum. The board protects the worktop from tile adhesive, sharp cut
tiles and careless tilers and as the adhesive doesn't stick much to the
clingfilm, the whole lot can be slid out when the tiles are set solid
(and
grouted if you prefer). This leaves a nice 3mm recess which takes a bead
of
sealant much more effectively than just running it along a rightangled
join.

Other points when cutting the mitre - use a sharp, quality cutter, work
in
small passes, run the bush against the "waste edge" of the jig's slot
until
you have cut all the way through and then a nice smooth pass along the
good
edge to finish the cut. Practice on some scraps if you have the luxury
of
spare material. Lastly, remember there will be huge amounts of dust from
routing the chipboard core so take precautions to protect your health and
your workplace.

Good luck!
Adrian



Thanks for the advice Adrian, which jig have you got? I've got some 650
tops so need the 18953.

Dave

Hello Dave,

From memory, it is the same as 18953 except that it lacks the rectangular
cutout (is that just a carrying handle?) It certainly will do 650mm and I
think it will do 700mm.
I will pick it up when I'm next down in SW19 and send you a photo (maybe
Friday, else early next week)
Where are you based?

Adrian