"Ignoramus17028" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Usually a sticking/worm governor. If it was the fuel mix, they usually rev
up + down every couple of seconds.


Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

Unscrew the nut to reduce pressure.

"Ignoramus17028" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

I suspect they wrote it off because it is twenty years old, at least the
date code on the engine indicates it was manufactured in '85.

The engine changing speed is got to be from a out of adjustment governor, or
worn linkage. Possibly a dirty carburetor or out of adjustment fuel
settings.

To adjust the water pressure back off the nuts on the relief valve. It is
the unit mounted to the side of the pump where the discharge hose comes out,
with the orange washers.
It looks to be a pretty good unit other than the obvious starter problem!
Most of these gas powered units see little use so the chances are the pump
and engine are in good shape.
Greg

Ignoramus17028 wrote:

On Sun, 06 Mar 2005 22:14:27 -0500, john wrote:

Ignoramus17028 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

keep a distance from rubber parts and seals on hydraulic cylinders..
also radiators and anything else that 3000 lbs will shread. Get a good
rain suit until you learn how to point that thing.. Watch out for the
corners/


Thanks. My current pressure was way below 3000 psi, and yet I
definitely needed your advice about a rain suit.

I will try playing with higher pressure tomorrow. Unfortunately, the
pressure gauge is missing the pointer, so I cannot know the exact
pressure. I may try to put it apart to see if it can be easily
restored, the pointer is on the bottom of the gauge.

Would it be correct to say that 3000 PSI is supposed to shred wood?

It would be correct to say that 3000 PSI will demolish
rotten wood. Sound wood, hit at a glancing angle, might
not be a problem.

I pressure washed my fence and grape arbor with 2300 psi
water and had no problems with sound woood.

Ignoramus17028 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

keep a distance from rubber parts and seals on hydraulic cylinders..
also radiators and anything else that 3000 lbs will shread. Get a good
rain suit until you learn how to point that thing.. Watch out for the
corners/

John

"Ignoramus17028" wrote in message
...

It looks to be a pretty good unit other than the obvious starter
problem!

Do you mean a governor problem? The unit starts up fine.



In your pics the pull starter is missing. Does the engine have electric
start too?
Greg

"Ignoramus17028" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 22:35:26 -0600, Greg O wrote:

"Ignoramus17028" wrote in message
...

It looks to be a pretty good unit other than the obvious starter
problem!

Do you mean a governor problem? The unit starts up fine.



In your pics the pull starter is missing. Does the engine have electric
start too?

Now I understand your question. No, it has rope start. Considering
that it easily starts on the first pull, I do not mind it that much.

i

Ok, I just saw that the rewind starter assembly was missing. There are
screws and a starter clutch for a rewind, plus some paint missing from where
it mounts. B&S made the I/C series engine with a place to wrap a rope to
start it if the recoil starter breaks. No big deal as long as it starts
well.
Greg

In article ,
Ignoramus17028 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

I only know the first answer:
If the air filter is clean...
Most likely is that the governor spring isn't firm enough, or is too
loose. Look around the engine's carb until you see the governor spring.
Might have to take off some shrouding and the air filter to get to it.
The tab that the spring hooks onto is usually bendable, but sometimes
has a lever with a clamping screw. However it adjusts, while running
the engine, move that anchor so that it stretches the spring a bit. If
the RPMs settle out, problem solved. If the hunting gets worse, go the
other direction with the anchor. That should do it.
If not, depends on what kind of governor you have--either air vane or
internal. You can ID the internal kind because you have linkage going
off to a small shaft poking out of the crankcase. The air vane type
will simply have a plastic flag next to the flywheel under the shroud.
Make sure the paddle can move freely on its shaft and isn't cracked.
Cracks respond well to JB Weld. If it's internal, it's somewhat
complicated to adjust and I don't want to write it all out if I don't
need to. (:
If it isn't your governor spring or linkage you'll likely need to
clean out the carb. First try running fresh gas in it--that'll take
care of about half the "bad" carbs out there. But I doubt it's a carb
problem since you didn't say anything about the exhaust and I don't see
any clouds in your photos. Normally if a carb is causing hunting
problems your engine will rev up, run rich, rev down, run lean, repeat.
That would cause nasty exhaust. I think.
Also, I saw in your photos that you're running it without any pull
starter cover in place. That starter clutch's (that little square shaft
poking out of the flywheel hub) plate holding the square stub shaft
usually is only retained by a slight friction fit and the pull cord
assembly sitting on top. It's not terribly likely, but running without
anything on top of it can let it come apart on you. Take a look and
make sire it's got something holding it on before you run it again.
Looks like the pull-start wheel thingamajig holds it, but I can't quite
tell from the photos.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

On Mon, 7 Mar 2005 00:36:40 -0500, "Shawn" shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

A 3000 psi pressure washer is made for cleaning things like heavy equipment,
not really for "around the house" type stuff. Backing off the pressure by
decreasing the spring pressure on the bypass valve would be my
recommendation. When the job calls for it, 3000 psi is great to have, just
hold on to the gun tightly.

And do NOT use it to wash down even clothed parts of your body.

I saw some guy using one the other day to wash cut lawn grass off
himself. It was only an eletric one, but they are still up at 1500
psi!

We had some kids electricuted over here, too because they were playing
with one of thes things, and it shorted out.


nnnggg!

"Ignoramus17028" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 06 Mar 2005 22:14:27 -0500, john
wrote:
Ignoramus17028 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or
so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

keep a distance from rubber parts and seals on hydraulic cylinders..
also radiators and anything else that 3000 lbs will shread. Get a good
rain suit until you learn how to point that thing.. Watch out for the
corners/

Thanks. My current pressure was way below 3000 psi, and yet I
definitely needed your advice about a rain suit.

I will try playing with higher pressure tomorrow. Unfortunately, the
pressure gauge is missing the pointer, so I cannot know the exact
pressure. I may try to put it apart to see if it can be easily
restored, the pointer is on the bottom of the gauge.

Would it be correct to say that 3000 PSI is supposed to shred wood?

i

A 3000 psi pressure washer is made for cleaning things like heavy equipment,
not really for "around the house" type stuff. Backing off the pressure by
decreasing the spring pressure on the bypass valve would be my
recommendation. When the job calls for it, 3000 psi is great to have, just
hold on to the gun tightly.

Shawn

"john" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus17028 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

keep a distance from rubber parts and seals on hydraulic cylinders..
also radiators and anything else that 3000 lbs will shread. Get a good
rain suit until you learn how to point that thing.. Watch out for the
corners/

John

Yes! Beware of airconditioning condenser fins too ... makes them flat fast!

Glenn

Ignoramus17028 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)
Does it cycle while you spray or just sitting ?
Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

In article ,
Ignoramus17028 wrote:

THANK YOU, I printed out your post for tomorrow.

igor

One thing I forgot to add: if you remove the air cleaner, on some
carbs the tip of the screw is used to seal off a passage. If you take
off the filter and the engine runs horribly all of a sudden, stick the
air filter's screw in all by itself and it should fix that. Put it in
just enough to fix it--if you keep turning it until it stops on its own
you can put it in way too far and knock out a gasket. As best I can
tell your engine doesn't have one of the carbs that would have that
problem, but it's something to watch out for.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

"Ignoramus26383" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 07:10:52 GMT, Martin H. Eastburn
wrote:
Ignoramus17028 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)
Does it cycle while you spray or just sitting ?

I think that it cycles just sitting.

i

I have a large commercial pressure washer with the same unloader/relief
valve you have. Sometimes the unloader does cycle for some reason when it
runs with the wand closed. Mine is a electric unit with a 5 HP motor on it,
a unit with a gasoline engine would really be noticeable when the unloader
cycles.
Probably what your unit is doing.
Greg

On 7 Mar 2005 05:20:45 GMT, Ignoramus17028
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

On Mon, 7 Mar 2005 00:36:40 -0500, Shawn shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet wrote:

A 3000 psi pressure washer is made for cleaning things like heavy equipment,
not really for "around the house" type stuff. Backing off the pressure by
decreasing the spring pressure on the bypass valve would be my
recommendation. When the job calls for it, 3000 psi is great to have, just
hold on to the gun tightly.

Shawn, what would be the practical examples (not necessarily around
the house) of real life use of 3,000 PSI for pressure washing.

Not Shawn. But like he said, heavy equipment. I use one to wash down
earthmoving machinery. I have a dozer, and the dirt really gets
compacted into the tracks and the undercarriage. Before greasing and
working in it, (and sometimes just to keep the weight down! G) I
give it a washdown. The little 1500 PSI jobs really struggle.

Also, on metal surfaces, you can work on loose paint, or even test for
bad paint jobs. Just remember that what stays on there _may_ have
water forced under it. You need to allow for this before repainting.

I have seen a guy taking off the bottom fouling on a boat. The
fouling, not the paint.

"Ignoramus17028" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 7 Mar 2005 00:36:40 -0500, Shawn shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet wrote:

A 3000 psi pressure washer is made for cleaning things like heavy
equipment,
not really for "around the house" type stuff. Backing off the pressure
by
decreasing the spring pressure on the bypass valve would be my
recommendation. When the job calls for it, 3000 psi is great to have,
just
hold on to the gun tightly.

Shawn, what would be the practical examples (not necessarily around
the house) of real life use of 3,000 PSI for pressure washing.

i

Like OldNick said, heavy machinery. I used one at a welding and repair shop
I worked at that was 3500 psi. We would clean farm equipment, earthmoving
machines and mining equipment before bringing it in for work. This unit
would strip paint in a heartbeat if you weren't careful. We always greased
things like backhoe pins and any other non-sealed joint after the wash too.
The nice thing about pressure washers with this much power is that when you
put a fan nozzle (I think that's what they are called) on it, you still have
a pressure washer, not a glorified garden hose like a 1500 psi unit is.
BTW, you started a previous thread about lifting pallets that I meant to
respond to. For as much DRMO business as you do, why not get a Tommy Lift
for your truck?

Shawn

Ignoramus17028 wrote:

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

Why worry about changing the pump ? Just put on a nozzle with a higher
flow rate . Drop the pressure for about 5 bucks . Better yet get a quick
disconnect that allows you to pop in nozzles and have a wide range
available instantly . They are a few dollars more per nozzle but still
under 10 bucks . Luck
Ken Cutt

Ignoramus26383 wrote:

On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 07:10:52 GMT, Martin H. Eastburn wrote:

Ignoramus17028 wrote:


http://igor.chudov.com/projects/powerwasher/

This is your tax dollars at work. I bought this powerwasher used from
the US military. I suspect that they wrote it off because the gas line
from the tank to the carburetor was rotten and leaking. Why else would
they write it off? If, say, the engine wore down and that was the
reason, the line would not be leaking. I replaced the line and the
engine started on the second pull. It is supposed to be a bad ass
power washer, up to 3,000 PSI, with the Briggs and Stratton 11 HP
Industrial/Commercial engine.

First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.

Second question: how would I regulate water pressure on this beast?
There is no obvious valve that I could touch. I think that 3,000 PSI
is serious pressure and I want to get some opinions before I start
messing with the pump. Maybe I should torque the nut on top of the
pump, shutting off bypass.

(Click on the thumbnail images to enlarge)

Does it cycle while you spray or just sitting ?


I think that it cycles just sitting.

i
The internal pressure (not being let out of the 'jar') might turn off the pump or divert...
then the pressure drops and it enables... Don't want to pump up a hose or a body such
that it explodes while you answer the cell phone... :-) That is my guess.

Try spraying - and see. It might smooth out.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

On 8 Mar 2005 04:54:24 GMT, Ignoramus26383
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email


Very nice. Just how dangerous do you feel 3000 PSI is?


hmmm...ok. I will keep trying. Very. You are talking hydraulic
machinery pressure here.

Do NOT point at your body, or at any body else or animal etc. I feel
that a chainsaw would make more of a mess (never seen a demo of "fake
human" and a water jet) but the water will get under the skin and into
the muscle, not just cut it. You could get real tissue damage.

Contact with the nozzle itself while spraying would be deadly, I would
think. This lessens with distance, but is by no means minimal.

I have a
personal story to share, I bought a 22" gas powered chainsaw and soon
later decided to sell it because I was afraid of it. Lost about $15
but I am happy with this decision to this day. So, I may be extra
careful, but only because I know that I am absent minded.

Ignoramus17028 wrote:
....
First Question: the engine goes faster and slower every 6 seconds or so,
maybe varying speed by 30%. Why would that be the case.
....

You've replied that this happens when the washer is just sitting, not
spraying, you think. I have a 5 hp gas washer that had a problem
cycling while spraying. It was very annoying. I discovered that the
nozzle was partially clogged. This caused the bypass/diverter to open
because the high pressure looked like the wand valve was closed. But
there was enough flow to close the diverter and start the cycle again.
Keeping the nozzle clean stopped the cycling.

HTH somebody,
Bob

On 9 Mar 2005 01:32:24 GMT, Ignoramus2605
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

When the pump os not able to move water, it gets hot. The bypass valve
allows water back into the inlet, or in some cases blows it off to
air, so there is flow. This also drops the pressure.

Bob, I am thoroughly confused as to just what the bypass valve is
supposed to be doing. What is its job?

i

"Ignoramus2605" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 20:01:39 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:
Ignoramus17028 wrote:
...

Bob, I am thoroughly confused as to just what the bypass valve is
supposed to be doing. What is its job?


Pressure washers are positive displacement pumps. This means that they
displace a fixed volume of water per stroke. If the pump were dead headed,
the pump/motor would stall or worse, break into pieces. When the spray
valve is open, the bypass valve is closed allowing all of the water that is
being pumped to go thru the nozzle. When the spray valve is closed, the
bypass valve opens recirculating the discharge side of the pump to the inlet
of the pump. Some setups may vary but this is the most common I've seen.
Basically, the bypass valve is a relief valve. It is important to not let
the machine run too long without spraying to avoid overheating the pump.
Nothing to get really paranoid about, just don't leave it running during a
smoke break.

Shawn

On Wed, 9 Mar 2005 00:22:10 -0500, "Shawn" shawn_75ATcomcastDOTnet
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Shawn

You will have to pass on anything that I may contribute, as you have
done once. I appear to be in Ignoramus's killfile for some reason,
unless they are living up tho their name..

No great loss, really.


"Ignoramus2605" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 08 Mar 2005 20:01:39 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:
Ignoramus17028 wrote:
...

Bob, I am thoroughly confused as to just what the bypass valve is
supposed to be doing. What is its job?


Pressure washers are positive displacement pumps. This means that they
displace a fixed volume of water per stroke. If the pump were dead headed,
the pump/motor would stall or worse, break into pieces. When the spray
valve is open, the bypass valve is closed allowing all of the water that is
being pumped to go thru the nozzle. When the spray valve is closed, the
bypass valve opens recirculating the discharge side of the pump to the inlet
of the pump. Some setups may vary but this is the most common I've seen.
Basically, the bypass valve is a relief valve. It is important to not let
the machine run too long without spraying to avoid overheating the pump.
Nothing to get really paranoid about, just don't leave it running during a
smoke break.

Shawn