Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
RR track steel
I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned
siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message . com... I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) IICR rail is weighed by the yard. For example 100lbs per yard would give you the rail size. Siding rail would be smaller than main line rail. Best way would be to chop off 36" and see what it weighs. There may also be some indicator cast into the rail telling size. Bernd |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Tom Gardner wrote:
I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) Rail is sized by lbs/yard, and it ranges from maybe 40lbs for a light siding like yours to 140lbs for a modern mainline. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Jim Stewart wrote:
Tom Gardner wrote: I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) Rail is sized by lbs/yard, and it ranges from maybe 40lbs for a light siding like yours to 140lbs for a modern mainline. Wouldn't it be more fun to get a locomotive or to lease it out to a railclub? |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Tom Gardner" wrote: clip) How much does a foot weigh? (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Go to an end, or a joint with a gap, and trace around it onto a piece of cardboard. Then rule some squares on the tracing, to help you estimate the area. Area x lengthx density equals weight. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Bernd wrote:
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message . com... I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) IICR rail is weighed by the yard. For example 100lbs per yard would give you the rail size. Siding rail would be smaller than main line rail. Best way would be to chop off 36" and see what it weighs. There may also be some indicator cast into the rail telling size. Actually ROLLED into the web of the rail on one side. It will also have the date rolled into it. Even more information if you know how to red all the makes. howard |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
You should check into donating the rail and possibly the ties if they are in
good enough condition to a railroad museum. You could write that off your taxes and possibly the museum might even come remove it. Where are you located?? tim |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
TSJABS wrote:
You should check into donating the rail and possibly the ties if they are in good enough condition to a railroad museum. You could write that off your taxes and possibly the museum might even come remove it. Where are you located?? tim Buy this and have more fun than you could ever imagine! http://tinyurl.com/5l6zc Ken.. -- http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Tom Gardner wrote:
I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) Tom - Where do you live ? - e.g. are there any private trains near by ? They might just come and get it for something. e.g. Mountain climbing trains, wine route, logging type, just pretty route... That stuff might be worth something that you can't get - e.g. they have it for trade... Life trip ticket or that old junker furnace we bought last year - ...... Might be worth more in use than in scrap. Scrap is better than on the ground, but I never minded it. ONe issue you might run into - hasmat the ties ?! - that stuff is poison now. In situ - in the ground with rail - grandfathers them. [ have them hauled with the rails as a whole deal ] Things to think about. Martin -- Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 20:37:54 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote: I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) Post in all the local metalworking news magazines and on the internet that you are selling railroad anvil material for $5 a foot, and they have to remove it themselves. It will be gone in about 2 weeks. Is that 500 lineal feet? Or 2 250 foot lengths? A 1000 feet of railroad track is a ****load of steel. http://rail.importer.alibaba.com/ G You may make more money selling it to a railroad collectors club. Particularly with the switches, signals, ties and road equipment. Gunner. "To be civilized is to restrain the ability to commit mayhem. To be incapable of committing mayhem is not the mark of the civilized, merely the domesticated." - Trefor Thomas |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" wrote: I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) I'd run this question by the folks over in alt.railroad. Good Luck! Erik |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message . com... I have about 500' of track with 2 switches that are an officially abandoned siding on my property. The thought was to scrap it for cash. How much does a foot weigh? What's the best way of removing it? Is it worth it? (LOTS of metal here!) You've received some great suggestions, but if it gets down to scrapping the rail, the price is about as good as it gets right now. Steel is at, or near, a record high, including scrap. Sell it off, so it will end up in China, where they'll turn it into lathes and mills and sell them back to us. g Harold |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 19:59:51 -0600, "Ken Davey"
wrote: TSJABS wrote: You should check into donating the rail and possibly the ties if they are in good enough condition to a railroad museum. You could write that off your taxes and possibly the museum might even come remove it. Where are you located?? I'd have to go look to get you an address - hold on a minute. www.ohiobrush.com Insert Jeopardy Theme Here Ohio Brush Company, 2680 Lisbon Road, Cleveland, Ohio 44104 And judging from the Mapquest picture when you plug in the address, he's right alongside a through rail line. I would NOT rip the siding out or disconnect it from the mainline if it's still serviceable - it would be prohibitive to put it back if you suddenly had a need for it. As in shipping in or out lots of big heavy stuff that's going to a customer who also has rail access. A better option might be to see if someone in the region needs a place to park a private railcar - you might be able to get some rent income from the siding. Or call Conrail and make them the same offer, siding space for lease, reasonable rates... Buy this and have more fun than you could ever imagine! http://tinyurl.com/5l6zc Tom: That steam engine above is one handy option if you want to start a REALLY expensive hobby, but at least the one advertised above is ready-to-go. Just bring your checkbook. Welded boilers only - do NOT buy a riveted lap-seam boiler or an engine that doesn't meet current FRA rules, you can't take it out on the main lines and they have annoying habits like going "Boom!!" with or without warning. Which can ruin your day... If you need motive power, it'll be a lot cheaper to buy an older Diesel, like a yard switcher. (Have a friend who's involved with Orange Empire Railroad Museum, www.oerm.org they have one engine under steam regularly and they're rebuilding a few more. Not a fast or cheap proposition by any measure.) -- Bruce -- -- Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
In article , "Harold & Susan Vordos"
writes: You've received some great suggestions, but if it gets down to scrapping the rail, the price is about as good as it gets right now. Steel is at, or near, a record high, including scrap. Sell it off, so it will end up in China, where they'll turn it into lathes and mills and sell them back to us. g Jay Leno mentioned tonight that the price of scrap has recently quadrupled. Is this true or just hype? Engineman1 |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
"Engineman1" wrote in message ... In article , "Harold & Susan Vordos" writes: You've received some great suggestions, but if it gets down to scrapping the rail, the price is about as good as it gets right now. Steel is at, or near, a record high, including scrap. Sell it off, so it will end up in China, where they'll turn it into lathes and mills and sell them back to us. g Jay Leno mentioned tonight that the price of scrap has recently quadrupled. Is this true or just hype? Engineman1 While I can't say it has quadrupled, it sure as hell has gone up considerably. I've not followed the scrap market closely, but the price of any steel item has increased by double in the past six months, at least where they stay current on prices. I know they're paying more for scrap, but I don't know how much more as compared to six months ago. Currently they're paying $85/ton average for steel. I can remember when scrap yards wouldn't even accept light steel. Here's a link if you're interested. http://www.recycle.net/price/metals.html Harold |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 02:08:33 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote: Don't know if anyone else has heard it, but my scrap dealer tells me there's a fair amount of hassle in dealing with railroad iron. As in, having documentation as to ownership, and he can't resell it except to a recycling plant. No idea if this is state, federal or where the rules come from, but it won't hurt to check. Short chunks of it _do_ make nice things to pound on, though. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
"Greybeard" wrote in message
... On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 02:08:33 -0800, "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote: Don't know if anyone else has heard it, but my scrap dealer tells me there's a fair amount of hassle in dealing with railroad iron. As in, having documentation as to ownership, and he can't resell it except to a recycling plant. No idea if this is state, federal or where the rules come from, but it won't hurt to check. Short chunks of it _do_ make nice things to pound on, though. And a 5-in. section makes a great dolly for fast bodywork. I have one with a thumb-hole that somebody torch-cut through the web. I polished it up good with my 16-Amp Milwaukee grinder. When I use it with my basic body hammer -- a 2-lb. maul -- I can knock a fender into shape quick as a wink. If you stand back about twenty feet, on a cloudy day, it looks damned good. This is not a joke, BTW. Ed Huntress |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
"Ed Huntress" wrote in message ... Short chunks of it _do_ make nice things to pound on, though. And a 5-in. section makes a great dolly for fast bodywork. I have one with a thumb-hole that somebody torch-cut through the web. I polished it up good with my 16-Amp Milwaukee grinder. When I use it with my basic body hammer -- a 2-lb. maul -- I can knock a fender into shape quick as a wink. If you stand back about twenty feet, on a cloudy day, it looks damned good. This is not a joke, BTW. Ed Huntress I have a friend that made a bumper for his pickup truck out of a section of rail. He had it extended about a foot from the body with aluminum tread plate on top. He rolled the sides of the tread plate over and made cutouts to match the profile of the rail so you could see the ends of the rail. Since his truck had been raised about a foot, he had a bumper sticker made up that said: "If you can't stop, smile as you go under". -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 17:06:30 -0500, Howard R Garner
wrote: Actually ROLLED into the web of the rail on one side. It will also have the date rolled into it. Even more information if you know how to red all the makes. howard The number that is rolled onto the web of the rail is the weight per *yard.* Orrin |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Weight, manufacturer, type of rail, etcetera. We still have some Carnegie Steel Corporation rail, circa 1890s, here in Monterey Bay. (Carnegie and Mellon were later merged to form U.S. Steel Corporation). I've seen some Geneva (a WWII-era plant near SLC) rail around here. Since 1936, rail has generally been Controlled Cooled, and CC is usually seen as a type marking. Pre-1936/non-controlled cooled rail is highly favored by Gillette Company, for use in razor blades. |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
"Peter H." wrote in message ... snip---- I've seen some Geneva (a WWII-era plant near SLC) rail around here. I'm originally from the Salt Lake Valley, and was given several hundred pounds of coke by Geneva when I inquired of the possibility of buying some for use in a small cupola I was building in the early 90's. The steel plant was built in Utah to avoid the possibility of being bombed during the war. At last report, it has since gone out of business, although I don't know that for sure. Interesting to hear they had rolled rail! Harold |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
|
#23
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 10 Jan 2005 00:07:53 -0500, Brian Lawson
wrote: On 15 Dec 2004 06:45:47 GMT, inch (Peter H.) wrote: Weight, manufacturer, type of rail, etcetera. We still have some Carnegie Steel Corporation rail, circa 1890s, here in Monterey Bay. (Carnegie and Mellon were later merged to form U.S. Steel Corporation). I've seen some Geneva (a WWII-era plant near SLC) rail around here. Since 1936, rail has generally been Controlled Cooled, and CC is usually seen as a type marking. Pre-1936/non-controlled cooled rail is highly favored by Gillette Company, for use in razor blades. Back in the mid- 1960's, I crewed on a CN work train here in southern Ontario that ripped out about 25 miles of VERY old track from an abandoned short branch line between Simcoe and Port Rowan. We were told it all went to Gillette in the US. Well work hardened material for them I guess. Take care. Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. That went to replace the diminished supply they got in1958-9 from the Irondale, Bancroft and Ottawa Railway. The I,B and Slow was so slow that it never got beyond Bird's Creek (the Bancroft terminus). This line had been built with rail imported from England (so I was told) and had grades steeper than anywhere else in Canada. I can still recall the caned seats in the day coaches around 1944. In those days, It was a race between my parents, Dad and I would be dropped at Toronto Union station, then Mother would drive back to her parent's home, load up the Model "A" coupe, then she and my brother would drive the 150 miles to meet us at my other grandparent's home in Wilberforce, near where the three of us spent the summer while Dad went back to work at Acme Screw & Gear in Toronto. Many good memories from this period in my life! Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
"Brian Lawson" wrote:
(Peter H.) wrote: Weight, manufacturer, type of rail, etcetera. We still have some Carnegie Steel Corporation rail, circa 1890s, here in Monterey Bay. (Carnegie and Mellon were later merged to form U.S. Steel Corporation). I've seen some Geneva (a WWII-era plant near SLC) rail around here. Since 1936, rail has generally been Controlled Cooled, and CC is usually seen as a type marking. Pre-1936/non-controlled cooled rail is highly favored by Gillette Company, for use in razor blades. Back in the mid- 1960's, I crewed on a CN work train here in southern Ontario that ripped out about 25 miles of VERY old track from an abandoned short branch line between Simcoe and Port Rowan. We were told it all went to Gillette in the US. Well work hardened material for them I guess. Silly question: how do they make the blades from the track? I'm assuming it's not melted and then reforged? Jon |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
On Mon, 10 Jan 2005 19:26:43 -0800, "Jon Danniken"
wrote: BIG SNIP Pre-1936/non-controlled cooled rail is highly favored by Gillette Company, for use in razor blades. Back in the mid- 1960's, I crewed on a CN work train here in southern Ontario that ripped out about 25 miles of VERY old track from an abandoned short branch line between Simcoe and Port Rowan. We were told it all went to Gillette in the US. Well work hardened material for them I guess. Silly question: how do they make the blades from the track? I'm assuming it's not melted and then reforged? Jon Hey Jon, Not a clue, but we assumed it was for blades. Brian. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Steel Choice? | Metalworking | |||
Dark Kitchen / Track Lighting? | Home Repair | |||
Drilling through a steel pipe. | Metalworking | |||
Plastering onto steel | UK diy | |||
Knife Steel FAQ updated | Metalworking |