[stryped[_3_]]

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

[Jim Wilkins[_2_]]

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it.
between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she
can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it
to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more
problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all
thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once
it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections
together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded/203552993

[Bob Engelhardt]

rec.woodworking

[Ed Huntress]

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 05:30:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

Disclaimer: Not an expert.

Opinion based on many decades of woodworking: If you're talking about
solid maple, it will warp. You can use plywood, as Jim referred to, or
you can rip it into narrow (maybe 1") strips, *reversing* the side on
each one, and edge-gluing them with something good (recorcinol is my
choice but it will leave dark-brown glue lines; epoxy will do as well
without the color). Biscuits or dowels will NOT make it stronger. They
just help to line pieces up.

That will be pretty resistant to warping. Tell mom that when she
washes it, wash *both sides* and wipe them dry before putting it away.
Use as little water on it as possible.

I don't think that allthread will do anything except compress the wood
at the washers, compressing it more each time you wet it and crushing
the wood. I have examples of French saute pans that keep compressing
their maple handles for just this reason.

BTW, with epoxy, you won't need any more clamping force than it takes
to hold the strips together. With resorcinol, you will need good bar
clamps, at least two on EACH side of the board.

Good luck! In the good woodworking resources (Fine Woodworking, etc.)
you will find lots ot helpful advice on this. Cutting boards are a
common gift item.

--
Ed Huntress

[RangersSuck]

On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 9:53:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 05:30:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

Disclaimer: Not an expert.

Opinion based on many decades of woodworking: If you're talking about
solid maple, it will warp. You can use plywood, as Jim referred to, or
you can rip it into narrow (maybe 1") strips, *reversing* the side on
each one, and edge-gluing them with something good (recorcinol is my
choice but it will leave dark-brown glue lines; epoxy will do as well
without the color). Biscuits or dowels will NOT make it stronger. They
just help to line pieces up.

That will be pretty resistant to warping. Tell mom that when she
washes it, wash *both sides* and wipe them dry before putting it away.
Use as little water on it as possible.

I don't think that allthread will do anything except compress the wood
at the washers, compressing it more each time you wet it and crushing
the wood. I have examples of French saute pans that keep compressing
their maple handles for just this reason.

BTW, with epoxy, you won't need any more clamping force than it takes
to hold the strips together. With resorcinol, you will need good bar
clamps, at least two on EACH side of the board.

Good luck! In the good woodworking resources (Fine Woodworking, etc.)
you will find lots ot helpful advice on this. Cutting boards are a
common gift item.

--
Ed Huntress

Agreed (also not an expert). A friend did the allthread thing and it still warped. Ripping strips (and planing them) is a good plan, and the one inch or so width would make sense - more or less like butcher block.

I wonder, though, for someone who had a lot of time on their hands and didn't mind sacrificing about half their wood to sawdust, whether much thinner (1/4" or even 1/8") strips might be better. That would look pretty much like the bamboo cutting boards (which are pretty indestructible). Again, flipping every other piece upside down will minimize warping. I would think that the thinner strips would contain whatever warpage does happen to a smaller area.

Just .0002 cents worth from a would-be woodworker.

[Ed Huntress]

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 07:35:52 -0800 (PST), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 9:53:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 05:30:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

Disclaimer: Not an expert.

Opinion based on many decades of woodworking: If you're talking about
solid maple, it will warp. You can use plywood, as Jim referred to, or
you can rip it into narrow (maybe 1") strips, *reversing* the side on
each one, and edge-gluing them with something good (recorcinol is my
choice but it will leave dark-brown glue lines; epoxy will do as well
without the color). Biscuits or dowels will NOT make it stronger. They
just help to line pieces up.

That will be pretty resistant to warping. Tell mom that when she
washes it, wash *both sides* and wipe them dry before putting it away.
Use as little water on it as possible.

I don't think that allthread will do anything except compress the wood
at the washers, compressing it more each time you wet it and crushing
the wood. I have examples of French saute pans that keep compressing
their maple handles for just this reason.

BTW, with epoxy, you won't need any more clamping force than it takes
to hold the strips together. With resorcinol, you will need good bar
clamps, at least two on EACH side of the board.

Good luck! In the good woodworking resources (Fine Woodworking, etc.)
you will find lots ot helpful advice on this. Cutting boards are a
common gift item.

--
Ed Huntress

Agreed (also not an expert). A friend did the allthread thing and it still warped. Ripping strips (and planing them) is a good plan, and the one inch or so width would make sense - more or less like butcher block.

I wonder, though, for someone who had a lot of time on their hands and didn't mind sacrificing about half their wood to sawdust, whether much thinner (1/4" or even 1/8") strips might be better. That would look pretty much like the bamboo cutting boards (which are pretty indestructible). Again, flipping every other piece upside down will minimize warping. I would think that the thinner strips would contain whatever warpage does happen to a smaller area.

Just .0002 cents worth from a would-be woodworker.

Thinner probably is better. You reach a point, though, where ripping
and jointing gets to be pretty tedious.

I have flattened big, sold drafting boards that were badly stored in a
school shop -- with my hand planes and cabinet scrapers. I have no
planer, but I have a solid (and heavy) 6" jointer. I would not try to
joint 1/8" strips. They'll get sucked in and shatter.

My tools for such work is a collection of jointer hand planes, some
with iron soles and two with maple soles. I rarely use power for
something like this.

BTW, Tage Frid, a superb woodworker from Scandinavia, uses a belt
sander instead of a planer. More power to him. He gets beautiful
finishes, but he must have a really good touch with those belt
sanders.

--
Ed Huntress

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 08:41:27 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"stryped" wrote in message
...
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it.
between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she
can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it
to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more
problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all
thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once
it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections
together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded/203552993

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oceanstar...1316/204078640
Bamboo, so all of Ma Stripeed's friends will Ooh and Aah!


--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

[RangersSuck]

On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 10:53:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 07:35:52 -0800 (PST), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 9:53:25 AM UTC-5, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 05:30:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

Disclaimer: Not an expert.

Opinion based on many decades of woodworking: If you're talking about
solid maple, it will warp. You can use plywood, as Jim referred to, or
you can rip it into narrow (maybe 1") strips, *reversing* the side on
each one, and edge-gluing them with something good (recorcinol is my
choice but it will leave dark-brown glue lines; epoxy will do as well
without the color). Biscuits or dowels will NOT make it stronger. They
just help to line pieces up.

That will be pretty resistant to warping. Tell mom that when she
washes it, wash *both sides* and wipe them dry before putting it away.
Use as little water on it as possible.

I don't think that allthread will do anything except compress the wood
at the washers, compressing it more each time you wet it and crushing
the wood. I have examples of French saute pans that keep compressing
their maple handles for just this reason.

BTW, with epoxy, you won't need any more clamping force than it takes
to hold the strips together. With resorcinol, you will need good bar
clamps, at least two on EACH side of the board.

Good luck! In the good woodworking resources (Fine Woodworking, etc.)
you will find lots ot helpful advice on this. Cutting boards are a
common gift item.

--
Ed Huntress

Agreed (also not an expert). A friend did the allthread thing and it still warped. Ripping strips (and planing them) is a good plan, and the one inch or so width would make sense - more or less like butcher block.

I wonder, though, for someone who had a lot of time on their hands and didn't mind sacrificing about half their wood to sawdust, whether much thinner (1/4" or even 1/8") strips might be better. That would look pretty much like the bamboo cutting boards (which are pretty indestructible). Again, flipping every other piece upside down will minimize warping. I would think that the thinner strips would contain whatever warpage does happen to a smaller area.

Just .0002 cents worth from a would-be woodworker.

Thinner probably is better. You reach a point, though, where ripping
and jointing gets to be pretty tedious.

I have flattened big, sold drafting boards that were badly stored in a
school shop -- with my hand planes and cabinet scrapers. I have no
planer, but I have a solid (and heavy) 6" jointer. I would not try to
joint 1/8" strips. They'll get sucked in and shatter.

My tools for such work is a collection of jointer hand planes, some
with iron soles and two with maple soles. I rarely use power for
something like this.

BTW, Tage Frid, a superb woodworker from Scandinavia, uses a belt
sander instead of a planer. More power to him. He gets beautiful
finishes, but he must have a really good touch with those belt
sanders.

--
Ed Huntress

I was going to say, there are sanders that work like planers - pretty much identical, but the knives are a sanding belt instead. That would probably be the more appropriate tool for thin strips.

Or (to get maybe a little closer to metalworking), you could use a water jet or laser to do the ripping and then forego the planing altogether.

[Tom Gardner[_29_]]

On 12/7/2015 8:30 AM, stryped wrote:
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it.
between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can
use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to
decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more
problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all
thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once
it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections
together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!



DON"T use all-thread. Glue and clamp up as thick and as narrow of
pieces you are willing to work with.

[stryped[_3_]]

I am using solid, hard maple, about 1 inch thick, face glued so the edges are the cutting surface. (Typical butcher block styled edge grain)/



On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 7:30:36 AM UTC-6, stryped wrote:
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

[Ed Huntress]

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 09:49:46 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am using solid, hard maple, about 1 inch thick, face glued so the edges are the cutting surface. (Typical butcher block styled edge grain)/

Then it sounds like you've done what you can to prevent warping.
Really, if a thick piece of wood wants to warp, it isn't going to let
a little thing like steel rods get in the way. The forces involved can
be impressive.

Again, the key is balancing the forces: don't let one side get wet
without getting the other side wet. And don't let either side stand
with water on it for long.

My pastry board is 22" x 16", made of 3"-wide x 3/4"-thick edge-glued
maple (I think; it's some European hardwood, and it isn't beech). It
has narrow (2") boards tongue-and-grooved into the two ends, like an
old-fashioned drafting board. After 35 years, it has not warped at
all. When I wash it, I make sure to wash both sides equally (and
quickly), even though the back side was completely clean to begin
with.

--
Ed Huntress




On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 7:30:36 AM UTC-6, stryped wrote:
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

[[email protected]]

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

[Ed Huntress]

On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of those.

--
Ed Huntress

[Tim Wescott[_6_]]

On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 09:53:17 -0500, Ed Huntress wrote:

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 05:30:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between
2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can
use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to
decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more
problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all
thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it
is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections
together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

Disclaimer: Not an expert.

Opinion based on many decades of woodworking: If you're talking about
solid maple, it will warp. You can use plywood, as Jim referred to, or
you can rip it into narrow (maybe 1") strips, *reversing* the side on
each one, and edge-gluing them with something good (recorcinol is my
choice but it will leave dark-brown glue lines; epoxy will do as well
without the color). Biscuits or dowels will NOT make it stronger. They
just help to line pieces up.

That will be pretty resistant to warping. Tell mom that when she washes
it, wash *both sides* and wipe them dry before putting it away.
Use as little water on it as possible.

I don't think that allthread will do anything except compress the wood
at the washers, compressing it more each time you wet it and crushing
the wood. I have examples of French saute pans that keep compressing
their maple handles for just this reason.

BTW, with epoxy, you won't need any more clamping force than it takes to
hold the strips together. With resorcinol, you will need good bar
clamps, at least two on EACH side of the board.

Good luck! In the good woodworking resources (Fine Woodworking, etc.)
you will find lots ot helpful advice on this. Cutting boards are a
common gift item.

I was going to say basically this -- and repeat Bob Englehardt's
suggestion of checking in on rec.woodworking.

I've got a nice cutting board made with the alternating-grain-strip
method by my father in law that is very nice, and has stood the test of
time. I don't know what glue he used, but I can attest to the method
working well.

Note, it is NOT end-grain -- the grain runs lengthwise, and the thing
works just fine.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

[Jim Wilkins[_2_]]

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of those.

--
Ed Huntress

The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html

-jsw

[Terry Coombs[_2_]]

Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 09:53:17 -0500, Ed Huntress wrote:

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 05:30:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it.
between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she
can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it
to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more
problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all
thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once
it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections
together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

Disclaimer: Not an expert.

Opinion based on many decades of woodworking: If you're talking about
solid maple, it will warp. You can use plywood, as Jim referred to,
or you can rip it into narrow (maybe 1") strips, *reversing* the
side on each one, and edge-gluing them with something good
(recorcinol is my choice but it will leave dark-brown glue lines;
epoxy will do as well without the color). Biscuits or dowels will
NOT make it stronger. They just help to line pieces up.

That will be pretty resistant to warping. Tell mom that when she
washes it, wash *both sides* and wipe them dry before putting it
away.
Use as little water on it as possible.

I don't think that allthread will do anything except compress the
wood at the washers, compressing it more each time you wet it and
crushing the wood. I have examples of French saute pans that keep
compressing their maple handles for just this reason.

BTW, with epoxy, you won't need any more clamping force than it
takes to hold the strips together. With resorcinol, you will need
good bar clamps, at least two on EACH side of the board.

Good luck! In the good woodworking resources (Fine Woodworking, etc.)
you will find lots ot helpful advice on this. Cutting boards are a
common gift item.

I was going to say basically this -- and repeat Bob Englehardt's
suggestion of checking in on rec.woodworking.

I've got a nice cutting board made with the alternating-grain-strip
method by my father in law that is very nice, and has stood the test
of time. I don't know what glue he used, but I can attest to the
method working well.

Note, it is NOT end-grain -- the grain runs lengthwise, and the thing
works just fine.

Having made more than a few cutting boards , I say look at the grain on
the end of your 1" wide strips . Make sure the curved grain lines alternate
, whether up/down or side/side . My go-to glue for cutting boards is
Titebond III - waterproof , holds great and it's approved for indirect food
contact . If you're worried about strip separation , dado joint a cross
strip on both ends - this will also help prevent warpage .
After it's all glued up , planed , and sanded (220 minimum) treat it with
olive oil - 2 coats minimum - soak it until there's standing oil then let it
sit for an hour , wipe off excess, let it sit overnight and repeat .
--
Snag

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:07:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of those.

--
Ed Huntress

The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html

-jsw

They are 3 phase brushless DC motors. They wouldn't run worth crap on
3 phase AC current.. They are electronically commutated. The 3 "phase"
4 quadrant controller can control the rotation of the motor to within
a few degrees, so you get instant response to balance the SegWay.
Same basic technology used in powered wheelchair motors and a lot of
e-bikes but with a high ratio reduction gearbox.

[Bob La Londe[_7_]]

Make it out of strips of wood with the grain at alternating angles. I would
think you would use bisquits and glue to assemble. Clamp tight to set and
sand flat when dry.

Ask on the wood working group to make sure. Those guys really know wood. I
see you already did. Nevermind.

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:07:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of those.

--
Ed Huntress

The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html

Those cost 5 large? Wow.

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:07:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of those.

--
Ed Huntress

The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html

Have you seen the new, improved version? Much cheaper.
http://tinyurl.com/paakapy

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

[Jim Wilkins[_2_]]

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:07:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue
and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of
those.

--
Ed Huntress

The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong
permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html

Have you seen the new, improved version? Much cheaper.
http://tinyurl.com/paakapy


The toy robot versions we built for fun were cheap too, but not safe
to ride.
http://www.amazon.com/Wow-Wee-MiP-Ro.../dp/B00I2VBH6U

[David Billington[_2_]]

On 08/12/15 05:31, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:07:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor
Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of those.

--
Ed Huntress
The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html
Have you seen the new, improved version? Much cheaper.
http://tinyurl.com/paakapy
There has been quite a bit of coverage in the UK recently about the
problems with those things, mainly issues about them bursting into
flames. One woman was severely burned and others have had lucky escapes
when they've gone up.


--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

[Paul K. Dickman]

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 09:49:46 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am using solid, hard maple, about 1 inch thick, face glued so the edges
are the cutting surface. (Typical butcher block styled edge grain)/

Then it sounds like you've done what you can to prevent warping.
Really, if a thick piece of wood wants to warp, it isn't going to let
a little thing like steel rods get in the way. The forces involved can
be impressive.

Again, the key is balancing the forces: don't let one side get wet
without getting the other side wet. And don't let either side stand
with water on it for long.

My pastry board is 22" x 16", made of 3"-wide x 3/4"-thick edge-glued
maple (I think; it's some European hardwood, and it isn't beech). It
has narrow (2") boards tongue-and-grooved into the two ends, like an
old-fashioned drafting board. After 35 years, it has not warped at
all. When I wash it, I make sure to wash both sides equally (and
quickly), even though the back side was completely clean to begin
with.

--
Ed Huntress


One other thing about handling. Eventually the board will cup, no piece of
wood is entirely stable.
After washing both sides and wiping them dry, determine the direction of the
cupping and put it on the counter with the crown up to dry.
That way the long side (crown) dries first and shrinks faster than the short
side (cup).

Paul K. Dickman

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 07:03:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:07:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue
and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of
those.

--
Ed Huntress

The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong
permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html

Have you seen the new, improved version? Much cheaper.
http://tinyurl.com/paakapy


The toy robot versions we built for fun were cheap too, but not safe
to ride.
http://www.amazon.com/Wow-Wee-MiP-Ro.../dp/B00I2VBH6U

8x10", 10oz, not safe to ride? That's a given, wot?

--
Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before
which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air.
-- John Quincy Adams

[Jim Wilkins[_2_]]

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 07:03:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 18:07:24 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
m...
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:53:05 -0500, wrote:

it's got permanent magnets in it, it is DEFINITELY a DC motor

Well, if one wants to get fussy, small AC synchronous motors
also
are
made with permanent-magnet rotors. But there is a starting issue
and
some other complications that suggest this case is not one of
those.

--
Ed Huntress

The Segway uses three phase AC motors with extremely strong
permanent
magnet rotors.
http://www.urbandharma.org/udharma5/segway.html

Have you seen the new, improved version? Much cheaper.
http://tinyurl.com/paakapy


The toy robot versions we built for fun were cheap too, but not safe
to ride.
http://www.amazon.com/Wow-Wee-MiP-Ro.../dp/B00I2VBH6U

8x10", 10oz, not safe to ride? That's a given, wot?

I can't show you pix of the strange gizmos born in the Segway lab.
http://news.yale.edu/2008/12/05/stud...orrell-s-class