Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 09:53:17 -0500, Ed Huntress wrote:

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 05:30:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it.
between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she
can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it
to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more
problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all
thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once
it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections
together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

Disclaimer: Not an expert.

Opinion based on many decades of woodworking: If you're talking about
solid maple, it will warp. You can use plywood, as Jim referred to,
or you can rip it into narrow (maybe 1") strips, *reversing* the
side on each one, and edge-gluing them with something good
(recorcinol is my choice but it will leave dark-brown glue lines;
epoxy will do as well without the color). Biscuits or dowels will
NOT make it stronger. They just help to line pieces up.

That will be pretty resistant to warping. Tell mom that when she
washes it, wash *both sides* and wipe them dry before putting it
away.
Use as little water on it as possible.

I don't think that allthread will do anything except compress the
wood at the washers, compressing it more each time you wet it and
crushing the wood. I have examples of French saute pans that keep
compressing their maple handles for just this reason.

BTW, with epoxy, you won't need any more clamping force than it
takes to hold the strips together. With resorcinol, you will need
good bar clamps, at least two on EACH side of the board.

Good luck! In the good woodworking resources (Fine Woodworking, etc.)
you will find lots ot helpful advice on this. Cutting boards are a
common gift item.

I was going to say basically this -- and repeat Bob Englehardt's
suggestion of checking in on rec.woodworking.

I've got a nice cutting board made with the alternating-grain-strip
method by my father in law that is very nice, and has stood the test
of time. I don't know what glue he used, but I can attest to the
method working well.

Note, it is NOT end-grain -- the grain runs lengthwise, and the thing
works just fine.

Having made more than a few cutting boards , I say look at the grain on
the end of your 1" wide strips . Make sure the curved grain lines alternate
, whether up/down or side/side . My go-to glue for cutting boards is
Titebond III - waterproof , holds great and it's approved for indirect food
contact . If you're worried about strip separation , dado joint a cross
strip on both ends - this will also help prevent warpage .
After it's all glued up , planed , and sanded (220 minimum) treat it with
olive oil - 2 coats minimum - soak it until there's standing oil then let it
sit for an hour , wipe off excess, let it sit overnight and repeat .
--
Snag