http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into 1"
pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up, and
glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond what
you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.

"toller" wrote in message
...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
up, and glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.

It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything liquid
on it?

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news

"toller" wrote in message
...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
up, and glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.

It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything liquid
on it?
No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If you
apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a while, apply
more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw wood.

"toller" wrote in message
...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news

"toller" wrote in message
...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them
into
1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
up, and glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.

It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything
liquid
on it?
No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If you
apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a while, apply
more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw wood.



Large butcher cutting "blocks" are built this way

REAL butcher block has always been endgrain, for wear resistance. Some
Japanese blocks are actually a section of hard maple, maybe 4-8" thick
and a foot in diameter, just cut straight from the tree and then iron
banded like a hot tub to prevent splitting.
I have two 2" thick endgrain hard maple boards about 12x18, they do
drink oil, but they last forever.

I think it's butt ugly!! But it looks cool in an ugly sort of way and things
like that are fun to build...even if you're really not sure if you should
give it away (I should know...I have a cupboard full of things that look
just like that!)

g!

Rob

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

"toller" wrote in message
...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
1"
pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up,
and
glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what
you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.

Typically "Chopping" blocks are made this way with the end grain up. For
true cutting boards,
I've typically seen edge grain showing. Either way, I'm sure it'll work
just fine!
Cheers,
cc

"toller" wrote in message
...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news

"toller" wrote in message
...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
up, and glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.

It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything
liquid on it?
No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If you
apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a while, apply
more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw wood.

"toller" wrote in
:

snip

It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything
liquid on it?
No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If
you apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a
while, apply more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw
wood.

Red oak, and other ring porous woods? Think a bundle of drinking straws...

Patriarch

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...
Typically "Chopping" blocks are made this way with the end grain up. For
true cutting boards,
I've typically seen edge grain showing. Either way, I'm sure it'll work
just fine!
Cheers,
cc

Yes, the endgrain does not dull the blade as quickly as a "cross grain"
cutting board. The grain separates a little at the knife edge, kind of like
the way a horsehair (or whatever material that is) dartboard does.

dwhite

Dan White wrote:
The grain separates a little at the knife edge, kind of like
the way a horsehair (or whatever material that is) dartboard does.

dwhite

I believe that would be "boar bristles".

"toller" wrote in message
...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
1"
pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up,
and
glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what
you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.



I guess there's no accounting for taste, but I kinda like it.
--

-Mike-

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 01:09:15 GMT, "toller" wrote:

http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into 1"
pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up, and
glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...

It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond what
you could get in formica.

I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.



http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm


tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

Tom Watson wrote in
:

snip

http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm


Not in my house, thank you.

Patriarch

Tom Watson wrote:
http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm


At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
was one of the best surfaces to work on.

UA100

"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
...
Tom Watson wrote:
http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm


At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
was one of the best surfaces to work on.

UA100

The train museum in Pine Bluff, Arkansas has the same sort of floor. They
used that because the end grain is so much tougher than side grain.

Michael

On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 00:23:23 GMT, Unisaw A100 wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:
http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm


At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
was one of the best surfaces to work on.

UA100

yabut, end-grain *plywood*? There's just something wrong about that.




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Tom Watson wrote:

http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm

So that's why I'm only getting MDF and jummywood dunnage now. Them folks is
takin' my 6x6 oak timbers and turnin' 'em into some decidedly not terribly
attractive flooring.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

Herman Family wrote:
"Unisaw A100" wrote in message
...

Tom Watson wrote:
http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm


At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
was one of the best surfaces to work on.

UA100


The train museum in Pine Bluff, Arkansas has the same sort of floor. They
used that because the end grain is so much tougher than side grain.

Michael


I think a lot of 19th century factories had end-grain floors.


--RC

Well.now you have me thinking

a 3/4" sheet of plywood ripped into 3/4" pieces and stacked on a floor end
grain up will price out to a little over a buck a square foot....and it
would be unique

Hmm......

Rob

--


http://www.robswoodworking.com

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 00:23:23 GMT, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:
http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm


At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
was one of the best surfaces to work on.

UA100

yabut, end-grain *plywood*? There's just something wrong about that.





+---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody

+---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----+

toller wrote:
: http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg

: I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into 1"
: pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up, and
: glued them up.
: About a pint of BLO later...


Make sure that stuff cures properly before putting food on it.
Next time you could try walnut oil (edible, cures, has a nice amber cast
to it).

-- Andy Barss

Dan White wrote:
The grain separates a little at the knife edge, kind of like
the way a horsehair (or whatever material that is) dartboard does.

dwhite

JLarsson schreef
I believe that would be "boar bristles".

***
No, dartboards are purely vegetable (i.e. sisal fiber), e.g.
http://www.dartboards.com/cart/shopp...iew/key=ESC003