On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 09:49:46 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

I am using solid, hard maple, about 1 inch thick, face glued so the edges are the cutting surface. (Typical butcher block styled edge grain)/

Then it sounds like you've done what you can to prevent warping.
Really, if a thick piece of wood wants to warp, it isn't going to let
a little thing like steel rods get in the way. The forces involved can
be impressive.

Again, the key is balancing the forces: don't let one side get wet
without getting the other side wet. And don't let either side stand
with water on it for long.

My pastry board is 22" x 16", made of 3"-wide x 3/4"-thick edge-glued
maple (I think; it's some European hardwood, and it isn't beech). It
has narrow (2") boards tongue-and-grooved into the two ends, like an
old-fashioned drafting board. After 35 years, it has not warped at
all. When I wash it, I make sure to wash both sides equally (and
quickly), even though the back side was completely clean to begin
with.

--
Ed Huntress




On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 7:30:36 AM UTC-6, stryped wrote:
I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!