Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me (more) nuts
.. The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant flow , and isn't
putting out enough heat . I've checked all the hoses from the motor thru the
valve and heater core and back to the engine , hoses are OK and the core
isn't plugged . I've also flushed the entire system , all hoses and the core
and associated plumbing . After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time
then it's back to not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve
is cable operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for temp
control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might explain it . The
coolant level is up , and circulating when observed in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's the
main driver .

--
Snag

On 30-Oct-15 8:52 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me (more) nuts
. The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant flow , and isn't
putting out enough heat . I've checked all the hoses from the motor thru the
valve and heater core and back to the engine , hoses are OK and the core
isn't plugged . I've also flushed the entire system , all hoses and the core
and associated plumbing . After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time
then it's back to not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve
is cable operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for temp
control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might explain it . The
coolant level is up , and circulating when observed in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's the
main driver .



I don't know. Could it be trapped air?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/101806-bleed-cooling-system.html

........... and yeah, its better than politics!

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when observed
in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's
the main driver .

--
Snag

Does the radiator hose on the pump's suction side collapse at higher
engine speed?
-jsw

On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 07:52:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me (more) nuts
. The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant flow , and isn't
putting out enough heat . I've checked all the hoses from the motor thru the
valve and heater core and back to the engine , hoses are OK and the core
isn't plugged . I've also flushed the entire system , all hoses and the core
and associated plumbing . After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time
then it's back to not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve
is cable operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for temp
control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might explain it . The
coolant level is up , and circulating when observed in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's the
main driver .

First off, make sure you have a tstat in there. The engine's
thermostat is necessary to allow the radiator water to warm up to
proper temp for delivering how air through the core. In addition to
that, the water pump is responsible for flow. I've seen water pump
impellers eaten down to nothing via electrolysis and rust, so don't
rule that out.

You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the water
pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water control
valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are extremely picky,
especially if the water pump impeller is diminished. Also, try to see
if the water control valve gate is loose from the arm. I've seen the
shafts break but the arm not fall off.

As to heater core flow, can you blow a full lungful of air through it
without any back pressure whatsoever? Maybe boil it out, just to be
on the safe side? (Egad, it has been so long, I don't remember what
that entails any more!) If in doubt, go to a Toyota dealership and
blow through a replacement core to note the difference.

Let us know what you find. Curious minds, etc.

--
Sound character provides the power with which a person may ride
the emergencies of life instead of being overwhelmed by them.
Failure is... the highway to success.
--Og Mandino

On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 21:16:49 +0800, DAB wrote:

On 30-Oct-15 8:52 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me (more) nuts
. The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant flow , and isn't
putting out enough heat . I've checked all the hoses from the motor thru the
valve and heater core and back to the engine , hoses are OK and the core
isn't plugged . I've also flushed the entire system , all hoses and the core
and associated plumbing . After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time
then it's back to not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve
is cable operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for temp
control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might explain it . The
coolant level is up , and circulating when observed in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's the
main driver .



I don't know. Could it be trapped air?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/101806-bleed-cooling-system.html

That poor guy needs a better _sound_system_. wink

--
Sound character provides the power with which a person may ride
the emergencies of life instead of being overwhelmed by them.
Failure is... the highway to success.
--Og Mandino

On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 09:33:14 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when observed
in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's
the main driver .

--
Snag

Does the radiator hose on the pump's suction side collapse at higher
engine speed?

Yeah, I guess if the rad was that badly blocked, it would impede the
flow through the core, too, wouldn't it? g

--
Sound character provides the power with which a person may ride
the emergencies of life instead of being overwhelmed by them.
Failure is... the highway to success.
--Og Mandino

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when observed
in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's
the main driver .

--
Snag

Does the radiator hose on the pump's suction side collapse at higher
engine speed?
-jsw

Nope , all hoses are in like new condition - the guy I bought it from had
a lot of work done to it . My neighbor worked at the shop that did the work
, and IIRC all hoses were replaced along with fan and cam drive chains/belts
..

--
Snag

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 07:52:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when
observed in the radiator . This has really got me stumped , and the
wife is getting pretty hot herself about it - we're getting into the
cold season here and she's the main driver .

First off, make sure you have a tstat in there. The engine's
thermostat is necessary to allow the radiator water to warm up to
proper temp for delivering how air through the core. In addition to
that, the water pump is responsible for flow. I've seen water pump
impellers eaten down to nothing via electrolysis and rust, so don't
rule that out.

There is a t-stat , motor comes up to op temp in a reasonable time . I
hadn't considered a prob with the impeller , but doubt it's the problem - I
think there's an intermittent blockage but I can't find it .

You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the water
pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water control
valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are extremely picky,
especially if the water pump impeller is diminished. Also, try to see
if the water control valve gate is loose from the arm. I've seen the
shafts break but the arm not fall off.

Valve operates correctly and is not broken .

As to heater core flow, can you blow a full lungful of air through it
without any back pressure whatsoever? Maybe boil it out, just to be
on the safe side? (Egad, it has been so long, I don't remember what
that entails any more!) If in doubt, go to a Toyota dealership and
blow through a replacement core to note the difference.

Let us know what you find. Curious minds, etc.


Core shows no sign of restriction when I run water thru it . I'm not
inclined to completely disassemble the dash to pull the core . I was sure
I'd find a hose with a degraded inner layer that was blocking the flow , but
the hoses are all in like-new shape , and I'm stumped . My next step is to
drain the whole system again and run some kind of chemical flush thru it ,
it's possible there's a flake of something floating around the intake man
passages , but I don't understand why it doesn't flow out to thru the t-stat
into the rad if that the case . I'd much prefer the wife to be warm rather
than hot , if you know what I mean .
--
Snag

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 07:52:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when
observed in the radiator . This has really got me stumped , and the
wife is getting pretty hot herself about it - we're getting into the
cold season here and she's the main driver .

First off, make sure you have a tstat in there. The engine's
thermostat is necessary to allow the radiator water to warm up to
proper temp for delivering how air through the core. In addition to
that, the water pump is responsible for flow. I've seen water pump
impellers eaten down to nothing via electrolysis and rust, so don't
rule that out.

There is a t-stat , motor comes up to op temp in a reasonable time . I
hadn't considered a prob with the impeller , but doubt it's the problem -
I think there's an intermittent blockage but I can't find it .

You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the water
pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water control
valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are extremely picky,
especially if the water pump impeller is diminished. Also, try to see
if the water control valve gate is loose from the arm. I've seen the
shafts break but the arm not fall off.

Valve operates correctly and is not broken .

As to heater core flow, can you blow a full lungful of air through it
without any back pressure whatsoever? Maybe boil it out, just to be
on the safe side? (Egad, it has been so long, I don't remember what
that entails any more!) If in doubt, go to a Toyota dealership and
blow through a replacement core to note the difference.

Let us know what you find. Curious minds, etc.


Core shows no sign of restriction when I run water thru it . I'm not
inclined to completely disassemble the dash to pull the core . I was sure
I'd find a hose with a degraded inner layer that was blocking the flow ,
but the hoses are all in like-new shape , and I'm stumped . My next step
is to drain the whole system again and run some kind of chemical flush
thru it , it's possible there's a flake of something floating around the
intake man passages , but I don't understand why it doesn't flow out to
thru the t-stat into the rad if that the case . I'd much prefer the wife
to be warm rather than hot , if you know what I mean .
--
Snag


Still check your engine thermostat.
The thermostat's purpose is to keep the coolant flow out of the radiator
until the engine comes up to operating temp. The engine warms up on its own,
then the thermostat admits the hot water to the radiator/ heater core.
If it isn't opening, the engine will still warm up, but nothing else will.

Paul K. Dickman

On Friday, October 30, 2015 at 8:52:32 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me (more) nuts
. The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant flow , and isn't
putting out enough heat . I've checked all the hoses from the motor thru the
valve and heater core and back to the engine , hoses are OK and the core
isn't plugged . I've also flushed the entire system , all hoses and the core
and associated plumbing . After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time
then it's back to not enough heat .
Snag

I am stumped too. When you flush the system , do you get anything out or do you just get clean coolant?

I suspect it is just clean coolant. It sounds as if you have something in the line that moves to a place where in blocks the coolant flow. If it were in the engine coolant hoses or radiator , your engine would be overheating.

I would try back flushing the heater and heater hoses. That is have the flushing water going in the opposite direction from the normal flow. If that does not have anything come out of the system , then try flushing the other way and see if there is a good flow rate. If the flow is restricted , then you just need to figure out where. So check the hoses and then the heater core.

I think the most likely place for a clog is the temperature control valve. Probably the hardest place to check.

Dan

On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 09:40:04 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 07:52:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when
observed in the radiator . This has really got me stumped , and the
wife is getting pretty hot herself about it - we're getting into the
cold season here and she's the main driver .

First off, make sure you have a tstat in there. The engine's
thermostat is necessary to allow the radiator water to warm up to
proper temp for delivering how air through the core. In addition to
that, the water pump is responsible for flow. I've seen water pump
impellers eaten down to nothing via electrolysis and rust, so don't
rule that out.

There is a t-stat , motor comes up to op temp in a reasonable time . I
hadn't considered a prob with the impeller , but doubt it's the problem - I
think there's an intermittent blockage but I can't find it .

You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the water
pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water control
valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are extremely picky,
especially if the water pump impeller is diminished. Also, try to see
if the water control valve gate is loose from the arm. I've seen the
shafts break but the arm not fall off.

Valve operates correctly and is not broken .

You are 100% sure? Did you take the hoses off both ends and look to be
sure when the shaft moves the plunger or "spool "moves too? VERY
common problem on earlier Toyotas - not sure if 99 had the problem or
not. As Toyota service manager I had a LOT of them replaced.

As to heater core flow, can you blow a full lungful of air through it
without any back pressure whatsoever? Maybe boil it out, just to be
on the safe side? (Egad, it has been so long, I don't remember what
that entails any more!) If in doubt, go to a Toyota dealership and
blow through a replacement core to note the difference.

Let us know what you find. Curious minds, etc.


Core shows no sign of restriction when I run water thru it . I'm not
inclined to completely disassemble the dash to pull the core . I was sure
I'd find a hose with a degraded inner layer that was blocking the flow , but
the hoses are all in like-new shape , and I'm stumped . My next step is to
drain the whole system again and run some kind of chemical flush thru it ,
it's possible there's a flake of something floating around the intake man
passages , but I don't understand why it doesn't flow out to thru the t-stat
into the rad if that the case . I'd much prefer the wife to be warm rather
than hot , if you know what I mean .

On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 10:56:08 -0500, "Paul K. Dickman"
wrote:


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 07:52:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when
observed in the radiator . This has really got me stumped , and the
wife is getting pretty hot herself about it - we're getting into the
cold season here and she's the main driver .

First off, make sure you have a tstat in there. The engine's
thermostat is necessary to allow the radiator water to warm up to
proper temp for delivering how air through the core. In addition to
that, the water pump is responsible for flow. I've seen water pump
impellers eaten down to nothing via electrolysis and rust, so don't
rule that out.

There is a t-stat , motor comes up to op temp in a reasonable time . I
hadn't considered a prob with the impeller , but doubt it's the problem -
I think there's an intermittent blockage but I can't find it .

You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the water
pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water control
valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are extremely picky,
especially if the water pump impeller is diminished. Also, try to see
if the water control valve gate is loose from the arm. I've seen the
shafts break but the arm not fall off.

Valve operates correctly and is not broken .

As to heater core flow, can you blow a full lungful of air through it
without any back pressure whatsoever? Maybe boil it out, just to be
on the safe side? (Egad, it has been so long, I don't remember what
that entails any more!) If in doubt, go to a Toyota dealership and
blow through a replacement core to note the difference.

Let us know what you find. Curious minds, etc.


Core shows no sign of restriction when I run water thru it . I'm not
inclined to completely disassemble the dash to pull the core . I was sure
I'd find a hose with a degraded inner layer that was blocking the flow ,
but the hoses are all in like-new shape , and I'm stumped . My next step
is to drain the whole system again and run some kind of chemical flush
thru it , it's possible there's a flake of something floating around the
intake man passages , but I don't understand why it doesn't flow out to
thru the t-stat into the rad if that the case . I'd much prefer the wife
to be warm rather than hot , if you know what I mean .
--
Snag


Still check your engine thermostat.
The thermostat's purpose is to keep the coolant flow out of the radiator
until the engine comes up to operating temp. The engine warms up on its own,
then the thermostat admits the hot water to the radiator/ heater core.
If it isn't opening, the engine will still warm up, but nothing else will.

Paul K. Dickman

If the engine comes up to operating temperature in a reasonable amount
of time on a cool day, the 'stat is not causing the problem. I'm still
betting on a bad heater water control valve.

wrote:
On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 09:40:04 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the
water pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water
control valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are
extremely picky, especially if the water pump impeller is
diminished. Also, try to see if the water control valve gate is
loose from the arm. I've seen the shafts break but the arm not fall
off.

Valve operates correctly and is not broken .

You are 100% sure? Did you take the hoses off both ends and look to be
sure when the shaft moves the plunger or "spool "moves too? VERY
common problem on earlier Toyotas - not sure if 99 had the problem or
not. As Toyota service manager I had a LOT of them replaced.


It's a ball type valve , and it is functioning correctly , the ball cannot
be moved on the shaft . First thing I checked .
--
Snag

wrote:
On Friday, October 30, 2015 at 8:52:32 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Snag

I am stumped too. When you flush the system , do you get anything
out or do you just get clean coolant?

I suspect it is just clean coolant. It sounds as if you have
something in the line that moves to a place where in blocks the
coolant flow. If it were in the engine coolant hoses or radiator ,
your engine would be overheating.

I would try back flushing the heater and heater hoses. That is have
the flushing water going in the opposite direction from the normal
flow. If that does not have anything come out of the system , then
try flushing the other way and see if there is a good flow rate. If
the flow is restricted , then you just need to figure out where. So
check the hoses and then the heater core.

I think the most likely place for a clog is the temperature control
valve. Probably the hardest place to check.

Dan

I've flushed both directions , no impeded flow . The valve is mounted on the
firewall inside the engine compartment and is very easy to check .

--
Snag

On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 09:40:04 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 07:52:30 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me
(more) nuts . The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant
flow , and isn't putting out enough heat . I've checked all the
hoses from the motor thru the valve and heater core and back to the
engine , hoses are OK and the core isn't plugged . I've also flushed
the entire system , all hoses and the core and associated plumbing .
After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time then it's back to
not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve is cable
operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for
temp control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might
explain it . The coolant level is up , and circulating when
observed in the radiator . This has really got me stumped , and the
wife is getting pretty hot herself about it - we're getting into the
cold season here and she's the main driver .

First off, make sure you have a tstat in there. The engine's
thermostat is necessary to allow the radiator water to warm up to
proper temp for delivering how air through the core. In addition to
that, the water pump is responsible for flow. I've seen water pump
impellers eaten down to nothing via electrolysis and rust, so don't
rule that out.

There is a t-stat , motor comes up to op temp in a reasonable time . I
hadn't considered a prob with the impeller , but doubt it's the problem - I
think there's an intermittent blockage but I can't find it .

So call and ask the mechanic/musician what color guitar pick to look
for.


You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the water
pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water control
valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are extremely picky,
especially if the water pump impeller is diminished. Also, try to see
if the water control valve gate is loose from the arm. I've seen the
shafts break but the arm not fall off.

Valve operates correctly and is not broken .

As to heater core flow, can you blow a full lungful of air through it
without any back pressure whatsoever? Maybe boil it out, just to be
on the safe side? (Egad, it has been so long, I don't remember what
that entails any more!) If in doubt, go to a Toyota dealership and
blow through a replacement core to note the difference.

Let us know what you find. Curious minds, etc.


Core shows no sign of restriction when I run water thru it . I'm not

You didn't answer my "lungful" question.


inclined to completely disassemble the dash to pull the core . I was sure
I'd find a hose with a degraded inner layer that was blocking the flow , but
the hoses are all in like-new shape , and I'm stumped . My next step is to

The potential for a collapsed inner wall was a good one.
Pull the heater core hoses and put a funnel to one side. Now dump a
gallon of very hot water through it and see if the heater blows hot
air. Also note how fast it passes through there. It should speed
right through.

drain the whole system again and run some kind of chemical flush thru it ,
it's possible there's a flake of something floating around the intake man
passages , but I don't understand why it doesn't flow out to thru the t-stat
into the rad if that the case . I'd much prefer the wife to be warm rather
than hot , if you know what I mean .

Ayup.

--
Sound character provides the power with which a person may ride
the emergencies of life instead of being overwhelmed by them.
Failure is... the highway to success.
--Og Mandino

On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:52:52 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wrote:
On Fri, 30 Oct 2015 09:40:04 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

You said you checked the water control valve, and it's OK, as is the
heater core? Restrictions there are usually the culprits if the
water pump and thermostat are operative. Make sure that the water
control valve for the heater is properly adjusted. Some are
extremely picky, especially if the water pump impeller is
diminished. Also, try to see if the water control valve gate is
loose from the arm. I've seen the shafts break but the arm not fall
off.

Valve operates correctly and is not broken .

You are 100% sure? Did you take the hoses off both ends and look to be
sure when the shaft moves the plunger or "spool "moves too? VERY
common problem on earlier Toyotas - not sure if 99 had the problem or
not. As Toyota service manager I had a LOT of them replaced.


It's a ball type valve , and it is functioning correctly , the ball cannot
be moved on the shaft . First thing I checked .
If it is a ball valve they HAVE addressed the problem.

Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .

--
Snag

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

wrote:
On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)


I would say it is the thermostat.
Block off flow to the radiator and there
will be more heat from the heater than you
know what to do with.

Terry Coombs wrote:
Hey at least it ain't politics !

Our '99 Toyota 4Runner has a heater problem that's driving me (more) nuts
. The heater apparently isn't getting enough coolant flow , and isn't
putting out enough heat . I've checked all the hoses from the motor thru the
valve and heater core and back to the engine , hoses are OK and the core
isn't plugged . I've also flushed the entire system , all hoses and the core
and associated plumbing . After flushing it out it'll do OK for a short time
then it's back to not enough heat . Pertinent info - the water control valve
is cable operated from the dash along with the gating for airflow in the
heater box . I don't think there's a t-stat type device in there for temp
control , but if there is one and it's malfing that might explain it . The
coolant level is up , and circulating when observed in the radiator .
This has really got me stumped , and the wife is getting pretty hot
herself about it - we're getting into the cold season here and she's the
main driver .


Did you reverse flush it with the heater hose off, or just run water
through the system with it closed?

How fast does it warm up to operating temp?

Grab an IR thermometer and see what the water temps through the system
are. Just look for a large temperature differential to find the blockage.

I'm thinking you have some scale blocking the flow through the core. I
would probably pull the lines off the core, run some Prestone flush or
diluted CLR through it in a closed loop (5 gallon bucket and a drill
powered pump does pretty well to circulate the flush).
Then do the same with the block.

--
Steve W.

jim" wrote:
wrote:
On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have
my doubts , all indications are that there is some foreign matter
blocking a passage or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is
"Better than it was but not as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad
pump would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat
incident. It has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own
and 2 or 3 customer vehicles)


I would say it is the thermostat.
Block off flow to the radiator and there
will be more heat from the heater than you
know what to do with.

But you'd be wrong Jim . The motor comes up to temp within about 2-3 miles .
--
Snag

Terry Coombs wrote:
jim" wrote:
wrote:
On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have
my doubts , all indications are that there is some foreign matter
blocking a passage or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is
"Better than it was but not as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad
pump would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat
incident. It has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own
and 2 or 3 customer vehicles)


I would say it is the thermostat.
Block off flow to the radiator and there
will be more heat from the heater than you
know what to do with.

But you'd be wrong Jim . The motor comes up to temp within about 2-3 miles .

If you had actually blocked off the flow
to the radiator Then I would agree.

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?

--
Sound character provides the power with which a person may ride
the emergencies of life instead of being overwhelmed by them.
Failure is... the highway to success.
--Og Mandino

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models
that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
Another point - running full heat to the floor in cold snowy
conditions leads to rusting out around the windsheild. The heat
evaporates the water from the floor and it rises and condenses on the
cold metal of the roof, running down inside the "A" pillars, rusting
them out.

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Too bad -none- of the current CONgresscritters are willing to do that. -LJ

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:55:22 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
Another point - running full heat to the floor in cold snowy
conditions leads to rusting out around the windsheild. The heat
evaporates the water from the floor and it rises and condenses on the
cold metal of the roof, running down inside the "A" pillars, rusting
them out.

Interesting. Luckily, I live in a very snowy/cold area. We get about
1 foot per decade here. Rains are generally slow, quiet, and
gentle over a period of days instead of hours, so we don't flood much.
We're 3.66" below normal for this calendar year, putting us a lot less
in drought conditions than California. I'm still sore over seeing all
those orchards dead and gone. There are at least a dozen, probably
totaling 1000 acres, visible on I5 south between the CA/OR border and
the Bay Area. Shasta Lake looks about 90' low. But CA still grows
rice, requiring massive amounts of water. I just don't get it.
Farkin' politics.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Too bad -none- of the current CONgresscritters are willing to do that. -LJ

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

OP, is that 4runner a 4 or a V6? Maybe you mentioned it, but I missed it. Anyway, if the water pump wasn't replaced with the timing belt, it's possible that cavitation has 'done et' (eaten) the vanes partially off the impeller. That'd reduce the circulation, maybe significantly depending on how bad.

That, or you're not getting all the air out of the system.

Jim H.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2015 13:52:37 -0800 (PST), "Jim H."
wrote:

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

OP, is that 4runner a 4 or a V6? Maybe you mentioned it, but I missed it. Anyway, if the water pump wasn't replaced with the timing belt, it's possible that cavitation has 'done et' (eaten) the vanes partially off the impeller. That'd reduce the circulation, maybe significantly depending on how bad.

That, or you're not getting all the air out of the system.

Jim H.
An eroded pump USUALLY causes overheating of the engine under normal
driving conditions before it shows up as a low heat problem. The bad
pump on my Mystique caused overheating within less than 5 miles of
driving. The loose impeller on my 225 Dart would cause the engine to
overheat on initial startup within 5 or 10 miles, causing me to shut
the engine down to cool -after which the temperature would drop back
to normal for a while after the impeller and shaft managed to
shrink-fit themselves back together temporarily. THAT one had me
chasing my tail for a while before I figured it out, I can tell
you!!!!

Jim H. wrote:
On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I
have my doubts , all indications are that there is some foreign
matter blocking a passage or fitting . The wife's assessment
for today is "Better than it was but not as hot as it should
be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad
pump would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat
incident. It has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my
own and 2 or 3 customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for
increasing flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never
has warmed my tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it
split between the face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's
really cold, even fully set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't
pump the air there. It doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking
anywhere else. Even on HIGH, it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this
info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and
making new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a
simple job or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those
little pieces of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in
me yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two
of them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of
cardboard to keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X
amount to reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive
places for hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay
whenever possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a
hand when he needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a
dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides -
- - - Well, you get the picture???

OP, is that 4runner a 4 or a V6? Maybe you mentioned it, but I
missed it. Anyway, if the water pump wasn't replaced with the timing
belt, it's possible that cavitation has 'done et' (eaten) the vanes
partially off the impeller. That'd reduce the circulation, maybe
significantly depending on how bad.

That, or you're not getting all the air out of the system.

Jim H.

It's a V6 , and I know the mechanic that did the belts , I'll ask him .

--
Snag

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 15:40:52 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

Jaysuss. Do you have to reupholster the roof, too, when you're done
playing under the dash? sigh

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Too bad -none- of the current CONgresscritters are willing to do that. -LJ

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 17:40:01 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 1 Nov 2015 13:52:37 -0800 (PST), "Jim H."
wrote:

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

OP, is that 4runner a 4 or a V6? Maybe you mentioned it, but I missed it. Anyway, if the water pump wasn't replaced with the timing belt, it's possible that cavitation has 'done et' (eaten) the vanes partially off the impeller. That'd reduce the circulation, maybe significantly depending on how bad.

That, or you're not getting all the air out of the system.

Jim H.
An eroded pump USUALLY causes overheating of the engine under normal
driving conditions before it shows up as a low heat problem. The bad
pump on my Mystique caused overheating within less than 5 miles of
driving. The loose impeller on my 225 Dart would cause the engine to
overheat on initial startup within 5 or 10 miles, causing me to shut
the engine down to cool -after which the temperature would drop back
to normal for a while after the impeller and shaft managed to
shrink-fit themselves back together temporarily. THAT one had me
chasing my tail for a while before I figured it out, I can tell
you!!!!

The one I changed was changed only because of a shaft seal leak. (hole
under the pump dripping steadily) Once I had it off the car, I saw
the eroded impeller, with 35% or so left. It hadn't over heated until
the seal leak, the owner said. This was an older Chevy, probably
'70s, back in the early '80s. That was back when you had room, and
could use a SnapOff powered gasket scraper to clean the surface of the
timing cover. Heavensend!

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Too bad -none- of the current CONgresscritters are willing to do that. -LJ

On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 07:42:48 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 15:40:52 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

Jaysuss. Do you have to reupholster the roof, too, when you're done
playing under the dash? sigh
Just another reason not to own "exotic" cars like Jags, Bimmers,
Mercedes, "Oddies" etc.

Book time to replace the A/C evaporatior in that "cat" was over 12
hours, if I remember correctly.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 07:48:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 17:40:01 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 1 Nov 2015 13:52:37 -0800 (PST), "Jim H."
wrote:

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

OP, is that 4runner a 4 or a V6? Maybe you mentioned it, but I missed it. Anyway, if the water pump wasn't replaced with the timing belt, it's possible that cavitation has 'done et' (eaten) the vanes partially off the impeller. That'd reduce the circulation, maybe significantly depending on how bad.

That, or you're not getting all the air out of the system.

Jim H.
An eroded pump USUALLY causes overheating of the engine under normal
driving conditions before it shows up as a low heat problem. The bad
pump on my Mystique caused overheating within less than 5 miles of
driving. The loose impeller on my 225 Dart would cause the engine to
overheat on initial startup within 5 or 10 miles, causing me to shut
the engine down to cool -after which the temperature would drop back
to normal for a while after the impeller and shaft managed to
shrink-fit themselves back together temporarily. THAT one had me
chasing my tail for a while before I figured it out, I can tell
you!!!!

The one I changed was changed only because of a shaft seal leak. (hole
under the pump dripping steadily) Once I had it off the car, I saw
the eroded impeller, with 35% or so left. It hadn't over heated until
the seal leak, the owner said. This was an older Chevy, probably
'70s, back in the early '80s. That was back when you had room, and
could use a SnapOff powered gasket scraper to clean the surface of the
timing cover. Heavensend!

Some of the first water pumps I "replaced" I rebuilt on the bench -
you could still buy rebuild kits for them back in '68 - new impeller,
bearings, and seals that you pressed in on an arbor press.

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
Greetings Terry,
You have probably checked this but maybe not. I had a Capri years ago
that started to have heating problems. I removed the thermostat and
found it did not close completely. The engine warmed up like normal
but when I turned on the heat the engine temp would gradually drop and
the warm air from the heater would get cooler. Does the 'stat in your
car close all the way?
Eric

wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 07:42:48 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 15:40:52 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww
I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)
Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models
I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!
That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.

You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???
Jaysuss. Do you have to reupholster the roof, too, when you're done
playing under the dash? sigh
Just another reason not to own "exotic" cars like Jags, Bimmers,
Mercedes, "Oddies" etc.

Book time to replace the A/C evaporatior in that "cat" was over 12
hours, if I remember correctly

Yeah some of those across the pond imports will make you cry when you
start a "simple" job, then discover what you need to do first...


--
Steve W.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 13:41:28 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:



Yeah some of those across the pond imports will make you cry when you
start a "simple" job, then discover what you need to do first...

Just replacing the heater fan in a Nissan Rogue took me hours and
hours.

Remove the steering wheel and gas pedal for starters... and even after
you follow the service manual to the letter it takes a contortionist
to reach inside the center of the dash from one side and put enough
force on the part to get it to budge.


--sp




--
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
Amazon link for AoE 3rd Edition: http://tinyurl.com/ntrpwu8
Microchip link for 2015 Masters in Phoenix: http://tinyurl.com/l7g2k48

On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 13:05:18 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 07:48:07 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 17:40:01 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 1 Nov 2015 13:52:37 -0800 (PST), "Jim H."
wrote:

On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???

OP, is that 4runner a 4 or a V6? Maybe you mentioned it, but I missed it. Anyway, if the water pump wasn't replaced with the timing belt, it's possible that cavitation has 'done et' (eaten) the vanes partially off the impeller. That'd reduce the circulation, maybe significantly depending on how bad.

That, or you're not getting all the air out of the system.

Jim H.
An eroded pump USUALLY causes overheating of the engine under normal
driving conditions before it shows up as a low heat problem. The bad
pump on my Mystique caused overheating within less than 5 miles of
driving. The loose impeller on my 225 Dart would cause the engine to
overheat on initial startup within 5 or 10 miles, causing me to shut
the engine down to cool -after which the temperature would drop back
to normal for a while after the impeller and shaft managed to
shrink-fit themselves back together temporarily. THAT one had me
chasing my tail for a while before I figured it out, I can tell
you!!!!

The one I changed was changed only because of a shaft seal leak. (hole
under the pump dripping steadily) Once I had it off the car, I saw
the eroded impeller, with 35% or so left. It hadn't over heated until
the seal leak, the owner said. This was an older Chevy, probably
'70s, back in the early '80s. That was back when you had room, and
could use a SnapOff powered gasket scraper to clean the surface of the
timing cover. Heavensend!

Some of the first water pumps I "replaced" I rebuilt on the bench -
you could still buy rebuild kits for them back in '68 - new impeller,
bearings, and seals that you pressed in on an arbor press.

In '68, why bother rebuilding? The water pump in my old Ford Bell Tel
truck went out in State College, PA, at 4:30 on a Saturday afternoon
in 1970 (it sprayed hot water all over the driver/passenger
compartment; the engine was between the seats). Sears had a rebuilt
unit that cost me, IIRC, $5.40, and I installed it in their parking
lot. g

--
Ed Huntress