On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I have my doubts
, all indications are that there is some foreign matter blocking a passage
or fitting . The wife's assessment for today is "Better than it was but not
as hot as it should be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad pump
would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat incident. It
has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my own and 2 or 3
customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for increasing
flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never has warmed my
tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it split between the
face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's really cold, even fully
set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't pump the air there. It
doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking anywhere else. Even on HIGH,
it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this info.


that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and making
new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a simple job
or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those little pieces
of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in me
yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two of
them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of cardboard to
keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X amount to
reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive places for
hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay whenever
possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a hand when he
needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a dash apart.


You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides - -
- - Well, you get the picture???