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Terry Coombs[_2_]

Jim H. wrote:
On Sunday, November 1, 2015 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-5, Clare wrote:
On Sun, 01 Nov 2015 06:36:09 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 23:52:23 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 20:38:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 19:35:20 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 17:29:44 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

wws wrote:
Is the hole in that valve as big as the heater hose ID ?
Try pulling the hose and starting it to check for flow.
Might try bypassing the valve any way - winter is almost here.
Hope your tests don't point to the pump.
ww

I hope not too , but if that's the problem I'll fix it . I
have my doubts , all indications are that there is some foreign
matter blocking a passage or fitting . The wife's assessment
for today is "Better than it was but not as hot as it should
be." .
As stated before, bypass the valve and see what happens. A bad
pump would almost certainly result in a very quick overheat
incident. It has every time it has happened to me. (twice on my
own and 2 or 3 customer vehicles)

Hey, Mr. Toyota Service Manager, got any quick fixes for
increasing flow to the floor ducts in an '07 Tundra? It never
has warmed my tooties like I'd like during the winter. I run it
split between the face ducts and the floor ducts, but when it's
really cold, even fully set to the floor ducts, it just doesn't
pump the air there. It doesn't seem to be blowing out/leaking
anywhere else. Even on HIGH, it barely blows. Any ideas?
I'd say the ducting is restricted, but I got out of it before the
Tundra (and well before '07). I know years back we had some models

I thought you might have kept in touch, though. Thanks for this
info.

that defrosted the right better than the left because they had not
modified the defrost ducting from the FDM rt hand drive setup and I
modified the defroster ducts by removing internal baffling and
making new baffles to redirect the air where we needed it. Not a
simple job or a job for the daint of heart when you see what those
little pieces of plastic are worth!!!

That's why they make -= Duct Tape =- !

Yeah, they're going for $76 apiece, as I found during my googlin
yesterday. I'm not nearly as apt to tear apart a dash as I was in
me yout, either. When I worked for the body shop, I did one or two
of them weekly, poking the retaining screws thru pieces of
cardboard to keep them from getting lost, and show that I had X
amount to reinstall. Mercenary's Benz had the most UNintuitive
places for hiding retainers, too. sigh @#$%^&* Chermans...
I learned how to R&R windshields to keep the glass man at bay
whenever possible, while I worked on the dashes. I'd lend him a
hand when he needed it and he'd put off installing while I had a
dash apart.

You think the Chermans were good at hiding screws, you want to try to
get into the dash of a Jaguar (XJC6 if I remember correctly). The
instructions start with "remove rear parcel shelf" - I kid you not.
When the parcel shelf is removed you can access the screws that hold
the rear quarter window garnish on. When you remove the rear
quarter-windoe garnish you can find the screw tha holds the front
garnish molding on, and when that is removed you can find the screw
for the "A" pillar garnish - which in turn hides the top corner
mounting screws for the instrument panel pad - which in turn hides -
- - - Well, you get the picture???

OP, is that 4runner a 4 or a V6? Maybe you mentioned it, but I
missed it. Anyway, if the water pump wasn't replaced with the timing
belt, it's possible that cavitation has 'done et' (eaten) the vanes
partially off the impeller. That'd reduce the circulation, maybe
significantly depending on how bad.

That, or you're not getting all the air out of the system.

Jim H.

It's a V6 , and I know the mechanic that did the belts , I'll ask him .

--
Snag