I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 06:12:42 -0700, stryped wrote:

I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a
person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket
frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle
descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

As far as I know it's not necessary.

Street rod frames tend to be made of mild steel; while they do crack
after long (or hard) use, the cracks tend to be due to stress induced by
use -- your brackets don't break close to the welds because of residual
stress, your brackets break close to the welds because that's where the
metal gets a lot of back-and-forth stress that leads to fatigue.

Engineer the frame correctly, weld it up in a good workmanlike manner,
refrain from actually hooking up the outer two carburetors on that
impressive polished intake manifold, and you should be fine.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I was considering some sort of free plans on the internet such as these: http://www.tbucketplans.com/the-youn...t-frame-plans/

I think it is made of 2x3 rectangular tubing.

One probalem I have is I can "farm weld". I have a bobcat ac welder but admittently not real good with stick. I have a Hobart 110 mig with flux core capability and gas. I have a bottle of argon/co2 also. Worried the little 110v wont be adequate.

I have oxy and could try to weld with it. (Never tried)

One thing I have wanted to try is to buy a bottle of gas and a tig torch for the bobcat. Watching tig on mild steel does not look too hard (I know looks can be deceiving.) I am not surehow well this set up connected to the bobcat would work. I have been wanting to give tig a try this way. The welds look neat but I know that TIG does not have very good penetration on thicker material.

Another thought I had was taking the thing togther, taking it to a local welder and having it welded there. However, sometimes even having a "professional" weld something does not mean it is a good job. Recently I was reading about someone who bought a t bucket frame from a company that makes their own frames. The frame brke in half while transporting the t bucket on a trailer. The person said it was a stress crack in the frame. That is why I was asking the question about peening.

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 14:34:46 -0700, stryped wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a
person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket
frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle
descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I was considering some sort of free plans on the internet such as these:
http://www.tbucketplans.com/the-youn...t-frame-plans/

I think it is made of 2x3 rectangular tubing.

One probalem I have is I can "farm weld". I have a bobcat ac welder but
admittently not real good with stick. I have a Hobart 110 mig with flux
core capability and gas. I have a bottle of argon/co2 also. Worried the
little 110v wont be adequate.

I have oxy and could try to weld with it. (Never tried)

One thing I have wanted to try is to buy a bottle of gas and a tig torch
for the bobcat. Watching tig on mild steel does not look too hard (I
know looks can be deceiving.) I am not surehow well this set up
connected to the bobcat would work. I have been wanting to give tig a
try this way. The welds look neat but I know that TIG does not have very
good penetration on thicker material.

Another thought I had was taking the thing togther, taking it to a local
welder and having it welded there. However, sometimes even having a
"professional" weld something does not mean it is a good job. Recently I
was reading about someone who bought a t bucket frame from a company
that makes their own frames. The frame brke in half while transporting
the t bucket on a trailer. The person said it was a stress crack in the
frame. That is why I was asking the question about peening.

There's a lot of places that count as "a company that makes their own
frames". Some are good, some are crappy. Some of the owners are honest,
some shouldn't be trusted with your lunch money. Not all of the honest
ones are the talented ones. Life is like that.

There's also a lot of guys out there who -- knowingly or unknowingly --
will totally screw up the parts they're sold, then complain bitterly when
they break in exactly the way you'd expect.

(My dad's company, Wescott's Auto Restyling, sold car bodies. Our
customers helped to educate us on all the different ways that street rod
builders can screw things up, and tell stories about them. Very often
the mistakes were simply an under-educated car builder doing something
that you learn not to do, and not realizing that they shouldn't have gone
there. Sometimes it was a guy doing something wrong and not being able
to accept that anything that he touched might not be golden. Once in a
great while it was someone being malicious -- there's all sorts out
there.)

Without knowing the details, you can't know.

I'd suggest that you get good at MIG, or tack it together and take it to
a good welder. If you live close to a decent community college, go take
a welding class to get good at MIG welding. Assuming that you feel the
teacher is trustworthy, tell him what you've got for a MIG (or take it
in) and ask him if he thinks it'll be up for the project. If the thing
can get enough penetration then you can probably do the whole frame, but
you may need to do it one inch at a time with long rests in between to
cool your welder.

If you just want to buy a good frame and build a car, call Karl at
Wescott's Auto Restyling and ask him if he has a recommendation.
Wescott's doesn't sell T-bucket stuff, but when I was there some of our
dealers did. It's been so long since I've been involved in the business
that I couldn't know -- the names that were on the top of the list in the
1980's and 1990's were Total Performance and TCI, but I think that TCI
has been sold, and Total Performance taken over by the founder's
daughters.

For a first-time street rod, I highly suggest finding someone with a good
reputation that has a unified catalog worth of stuff. That way you can
buy a frame with all the trimmings, and get all the suspension parts,
etc., to just bolt on and go. It'll cost more $$$ up front, but it'll be
much easier and you'll gain valuable knowledge that you can use to build
the next one more from scratch.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 14:34:46 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I was considering some sort of free plans on the internet such as these: http://www.tbucketplans.com/the-youn...t-frame-plans/

I think it is made of 2x3 rectangular tubing.

One probalem I have is I can "farm weld". I have a bobcat ac welder but admittently not real good with stick. I have a Hobart 110 mig with flux core capability and gas. I have a bottle of argon/co2 also. Worried the little 110v wont be adequate.

Get a tank of plain jane Co2 and use that. It will increase the
apparent amperage of your little 110 welder by at least ..at least
25%. Co2 burns hotter and of course deeper than C25 by a significant
amount.

And Co2 is a hell of a lot cheaper than C25 as well. The weld may not
be as "pretty" as a C25 or Argon only weld..but it will be nice and
deep.

Its been my experience..(take it for what thats worth..shrug) ..that
if your 110 welder gives you a 90 amp output..running Co2 will take
that up past 125-130 amps..minimum.

Gunner

--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 06:12:42 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?
Peening on a steel frame won't do much. Ir works well on iron and
cast iron and cast steel, but not so well on rolled steel, steel
plate, or pressed steel.

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 11:39:00 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 06:12:42 -0700, stryped wrote:

I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a
person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket
frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle
descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

As far as I know it's not necessary.

Street rod frames tend to be made of mild steel; while they do crack
after long (or hard) use, the cracks tend to be due to stress induced by
use -- your brackets don't break close to the welds because of residual
stress, your brackets break close to the welds because that's where the
metal gets a lot of back-and-forth stress that leads to fatigue.

Engineer the frame correctly, weld it up in a good workmanlike manner,
refrain from actually hooking up the outer two carburetors on that
impressive polished intake manifold, and you should be fine.
And "welding it up in a good workmanlike manner" does NOT mean you
weld the full length of every joint. That's part of the "engineer the
frame properly" part that is not so easy - and is in fact very often
counter-intuitive.

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 14:34:46 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking.
If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t
bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air
operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I was considering some sort of free plans on the internet such as
these:
http://www.tbucketplans.com/the-youn...t-frame-plans/

I think it is made of 2x3 rectangular tubing.

One probalem I have is I can "farm weld". I have a bobcat ac welder
but admittently not real good with stick. I have a Hobart 110 mig
with flux core capability and gas. I have a bottle of argon/co2
also. Worried the little 110v wont be adequate.

Get a tank of plain jane Co2 and use that. It will increase the
apparent amperage of your little 110 welder by at least ..at least
25%. Co2 burns hotter and of course deeper than C25 by a significant
amount.

And Co2 is a hell of a lot cheaper than C25 as well. The weld may not
be as "pretty" as a C25 or Argon only weld..but it will be nice and
deep.

Its been my experience..(take it for what thats worth..shrug) ..that
if your 110 welder gives you a 90 amp output..running Co2 will take
that up past 125-130 amps..minimum.

Gunner

Actually Gunner , my experience has been that while CO2 burns hotter than
C25 , flux core burns hotter than either . Welds look like crap though , so
do multipass and grind/flap wheel smooth .
FWIW stryped , IMO your plan to try TIG with your bobcat power supply is
only going to cost you money and cause frustration . It AIN'T as easy as it
looks , even with a "real" TIG machine . I bought one recently , and I
learned just how difficult it really is .
--
Snag

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 14:34:46 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I was considering some sort of free plans on the internet such as these: http://www.tbucketplans.com/the-youn...t-frame-plans/

I think it is made of 2x3 rectangular tubing.

One probalem I have is I can "farm weld". I have a bobcat ac welder but admittently not real good with stick. I have a Hobart 110 mig with flux core capability and gas. I have a bottle of argon/co2 also. Worried the little 110v wont be adequate.

I have oxy and could try to weld with it. (Never tried)

One thing I have wanted to try is to buy a bottle of gas and a tig torch for the bobcat. Watching tig on mild steel does not look too hard (I know looks can be deceiving.) I am not surehow well this set up connected to the bobcat would work. I have been wanting to give tig a try this way. The welds look neat but I know that TIG does not have very good penetration on thicker material.

Another thought I had was taking the thing togther, taking it to a local welder and having it welded there. However, sometimes even having a "professional" weld something does not mean it is a good job. Recently I was reading about someone who bought a t bucket frame from a company that makes their own frames. The frame brke in half while transporting the t bucket on a trailer. The person said it was a stress crack in the frame. That is why I was asking the question about peening.


Tig can have excellent penetration on thick metal, but it takes a BIG
Tig unit. (and a lot of experience) Nothing wrong with stick welding a
hotrod frame if you know HOW to stick-weld properly. Unless you are an
expert wit a MIG, forget it. I've seen more good looking crappy welds
on hotrods than crappy looking good welds. And I've been on the safety
lanes with the Canadian Street Rod Association as well as the NSRA at
runs across the country..

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 18:28:56 -0500, "Snag" wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 14:34:46 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking.
If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t
bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air
operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I was considering some sort of free plans on the internet such as
these:
http://www.tbucketplans.com/the-youn...t-frame-plans/

I think it is made of 2x3 rectangular tubing.

One probalem I have is I can "farm weld". I have a bobcat ac welder
but admittently not real good with stick. I have a Hobart 110 mig
with flux core capability and gas. I have a bottle of argon/co2
also. Worried the little 110v wont be adequate.

Get a tank of plain jane Co2 and use that. It will increase the
apparent amperage of your little 110 welder by at least ..at least
25%. Co2 burns hotter and of course deeper than C25 by a significant
amount.

And Co2 is a hell of a lot cheaper than C25 as well. The weld may not
be as "pretty" as a C25 or Argon only weld..but it will be nice and
deep.

Its been my experience..(take it for what thats worth..shrug) ..that
if your 110 welder gives you a 90 amp output..running Co2 will take
that up past 125-130 amps..minimum.

Gunner

Actually Gunner , my experience has been that while CO2 burns hotter than
C25 , flux core burns hotter than either . Welds look like crap though , so
do multipass and grind/flap wheel smooth .

You are absolutely correct in the difference between fluxcore and gas
mig.

FWIW stryped , IMO your plan to try TIG with your bobcat power supply is
only going to cost you money and cause frustration . It AIN'T as easy as it
looks , even with a "real" TIG machine . I bought one recently , and I
learned just how difficult it really is .

--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 06:12:42 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?


Most of the weld peening I've seen done was basically an attempt at
counteracting the bead shrinkage that normally occurs. I watch a bloke
weld a broken mounting foot on a cast iron motor base. He veed it out
with a grinder and welded it with 6011 rod. He'd run a short bead and
then peen the hell out of it. Then go away for a while the weld cooled
and come back and weld, and peen, a little more. The job took him
several days and apparently was successful as I asked him sometime
later about it and he said "Well, it never came back".

For those who will likely mention high nickel rod, it isn't available
in small town shop in rural Thailand :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I read my bobcat is capable of tig, but it lists it as "non critical". Why would that be?

One other question, I read that a root pass is not supposed to be peened? I dont quite understand that but does that mean you cant use a needle descaler to remove flux?

Also, is it good or bad to grind a weld flat after welding? Seems I read the heat from grinding can cause problems as well.

On Thu, 17 Oct 2013 14:06:10 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

I read my bobcat is capable of tig, but it lists it as "non critical". Why would that be?

One other question, I read that a root pass is not supposed to be peened? I dont quite understand that but does that mean you cant use a needle descaler to remove flux?

Also, is it good or bad to grind a weld flat after welding? Seems I read the heat from grinding can cause problems as well.

I believe that the general standards are not to grind welds as the
raised bead actually contributes additional strength to the joint. A
guy that built welded steel boats told me that in order to pass
certification the welds could not be ground flat.

As the parent metal is actually melted in the welding process it seems
illogical to believe that any additional heat generated by grinding
will effect the strength, excepting of course an "air hardening" alloy
which is common in bicycle frames and probably less common elsewhere.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

If it is better to not grind a weld, is there a way to make a weld "appear" better? What I am getting at is the case of flux core mig welding. It is hard at least for me to make it appear nice looking.

stryped fired this volley in news:694fb054-1b45-4ff9-
:

It is hard at least for me to make it appear nice looking.


Switch to gas and learn to weld.
LS

On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 07:42:18 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

[troll info snipped]

Switch to gas and learn to weld.

I broke a new knife yesterday in an attempt to get the press-fit end
off. (BUDK $10 M-16 replica bayo) It was welded on, I found out
later. Not to worry. I fired up the old HFT tigger and listened to
it purr at me for about 20 seconds per side and the tang is now firmly
back in place. It passes the drop test and hand bend/break test.
I sure love that little machine. It makes me look like a real weldor.
The copper plated rod is great for keeping me from sticking the
electrode to the workpiece, too. (scratch-start, not HF) I should
probably invest in some decent rod. Got any suggestions for general
repair work?

I also found some extra 3/16" steel plate and will cut and weld on
some extra beef to the 1/2-width tang this time, then ensure that it
is annealed before attaching it to the shaft of a spear I'm toying
with. How does generic steel weld to stainless knife stock? I guess
I'll find out later today.

I apologize to everyone for the on-topic post. I'll self-flagellate
in atonement later.

--
It takes as much energy to wish as to plan.
--Eleanor Roosevelt

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

You mean oxy welding? I have the equipment but never tried it.

On Friday, October 18, 2013 9:21:41 AM UTC-4, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 07:42:18 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:



[troll info snipped]



Switch to gas and learn to weld.



I broke a new knife yesterday in an attempt to get the press-fit end

off. (BUDK $10 M-16 replica bayo) It was welded on, I found out

later. Not to worry. I fired up the old HFT tigger and listened to

it purr at me for about 20 seconds per side and the tang is now firmly

back in place. It passes the drop test and hand bend/break test.

I sure love that little machine. It makes me look like a real weldor.

The copper plated rod is great for keeping me from sticking the

electrode to the workpiece, too. (scratch-start, not HF) I should

probably invest in some decent rod. Got any suggestions for general

repair work?



I also found some extra 3/16" steel plate and will cut and weld on

some extra beef to the 1/2-width tang this time, then ensure that it

is annealed before attaching it to the shaft of a spear I'm toying

with. How does generic steel weld to stainless knife stock? I guess

I'll find out later today.



I apologize to everyone for the on-topic post. I'll self-flagellate

in atonement later.



--

It takes as much energy to wish as to plan.

--Eleanor Roosevelt

Do you use the ~$200 HFT or the ~$400 HFT TIG box?

stryped fired this volley in news:9e035da0-0bc6-4e1f-
:

You mean oxy welding? I have the equipment but never tried it.


You can, and you can do beautiful welding with it (well weldors can).

But no, I was talking about MIG (or TIG if you're so-inclined).

Lloyd

stryped fired this volley in news:9e035da0-0bc6-4e1f-
:

You mean oxy welding? I have the equipment but never tried it.


Just to be clear, Stryped... there's long haul between podging together
metal with flux-core and "welding". If you were smart, you'd learn to oxy-
acetylene weld (weld, not braze) first, then move on. By the time you've
learnt that, you'll be a whiz at the more automatic methods.

Lloyd

On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 06:21:41 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 07:42:18 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

[troll info snipped]

Switch to gas and learn to weld.

I broke a new knife yesterday in an attempt to get the press-fit end
off. (BUDK $10 M-16 replica bayo) It was welded on, I found out
later. Not to worry. I fired up the old HFT tigger and listened to
it purr at me for about 20 seconds per side and the tang is now firmly
back in place. It passes the drop test and hand bend/break test.
I sure love that little machine. It makes me look like a real weldor.
The copper plated rod is great for keeping me from sticking the
electrode to the workpiece, too. (scratch-start, not HF) I should
probably invest in some decent rod. Got any suggestions for general
repair work?

I also found some extra 3/16" steel plate and will cut and weld on
some extra beef to the 1/2-width tang this time, then ensure that it
is annealed before attaching it to the shaft of a spear I'm toying
with. How does generic steel weld to stainless knife stock? I guess
I'll find out later today.

Use SS filler and it works nicely.

I apologize to everyone for the on-topic post. I'll self-flagellate
in atonement later.

VBG
--
"Their mommies tell them they're special, Liberals just don't understand
that "special" is a polite euphemism for;
*window licker on the short bus*"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On Friday, October 18, 2013 2:55:40 PM UTC-5, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:9e035da0-0bc6-4e1f-

:



You mean oxy welding? I have the equipment but never tried it.


Speaking of brazing, why cant a person braze a frame such as this? Is brazing more "beginner" friendly becasue of the capilary action vs placing the weld bead.


Just to be clear, Stryped... there's long haul between podging together

metal with flux-core and "welding". If you were smart, you'd learn to oxy-

acetylene weld (weld, not braze) first, then move on. By the time you've

learnt that, you'll be a whiz at the more automatic methods.



Lloyd

On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 05:39:41 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

If it is better to not grind a weld, is there a way to make a weld "appear" better? What I am getting at is the case of flux core mig welding. It is hard at least for me to make it appear nice looking.
Most people can do 2 kinds of welds with a wire-feed welder - a
pretty one that doesn't hold, or an ugly one that does.. Oh, there is
the third, even more common one - the UGLY one that doesn't hold.

Takes a bit of know-how and a lot of practice to make a smooth and
solid weld with a wire-feed welder.

On 2013-10-18, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:9e035da0-0bc6-4e1f-
:

You mean oxy welding? I have the equipment but never tried it.


Just to be clear, Stryped... there's long haul between podging together
metal with flux-core and "welding". If you were smart, you'd learn to oxy-
acetylene weld (weld, not braze) first, then move on. By the time you've
learnt that, you'll be a whiz at the more automatic methods.

Lloyd

O/A is almost the same as TIG. Kill two birds with one stone and get
an O/A torch.

i

On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 05:39:41 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Wednesday, October 16, 2013 8:12:42 AM UTC-5, stryped wrote:
I have been reading about stress relief and general metalworking. If a person wanted to prevent stress cracks in somethign like a t bucket frame, is it a good idea to peen weld areas? Can an air operated needle descaler work? Is hand peening possible?

If it is better to not grind a weld, is there a way to make a weld "appear" better? What I am getting at is the case of flux core mig welding. It is hard at least for me to make it appear nice looking.

One of the "secrets of the welding trade" is a can of flat black spray
paint. A quick squirt of black paint makes the poorest weld look good
:-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

John B. fired this volley in
:

One of the "secrets of the welding trade" is a can of flat black spray
paint. A quick squirt of black paint makes the poorest weld look good

With that approach, Bondo would make it look "NASA quality". snicker

If I send something out (like the occasional micro-TIG'd job with sub-
1/16" welds, or a casting that has to be toasted for 24 hours before
welding), It comes back as clean metal. Anybody paints it... they CLEAN it
again!

Lloyd

On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 18:48:29 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

John B. fired this volley in
:

One of the "secrets of the welding trade" is a can of flat black spray
paint. A quick squirt of black paint makes the poorest weld look good

With that approach, Bondo would make it look "NASA quality". snicker

If I send something out (like the occasional micro-TIG'd job with sub-
1/16" welds, or a casting that has to be toasted for 24 hours before
welding), It comes back as clean metal. Anybody paints it... they CLEAN it
again!

Lloyd

The black paint if for YOUR welds :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

John B. fired this volley in
:

The black paint if for YOUR welds :-)

I only have to worry about weld quality if I send work out.

I DO screw up welds, now and again, but if I do, I grind it out, and
start over.

Even good professional weldors occasionally mess up. It's what they do
AFTER they mess one up that separates professionals from the hacks.

My Dad was a professional steam vessel weldor before WWII. In his job,
"mess up" meant ONE slag inclusion or bubble inside an inch thick weld,
which they X-rayed to inspect. Find one? Grind it out!

Lloyd

On 10/19/2013 7:12 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
John fired this volley in
:

The black paint if for YOUR welds :-)

I only have to worry about weld quality if I send work out.

I DO screw up welds, now and again, but if I do, I grind it out, and
start over.

Even good professional weldors occasionally mess up. It's what they do
AFTER they mess one up that separates professionals from the hacks.

My Dad was a professional steam vessel weldor before WWII. In his job,
"mess up" meant ONE slag inclusion or bubble inside an inch thick weld,
which they X-rayed to inspect. Find one? Grind it out!

Lloyd


Sounds like my uncle Tommy.
Welded for years on that Alaskan pipeline.

On Sat, 19 Oct 2013 07:12:50 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

John B. fired this volley in
:

The black paint if for YOUR welds :-)

I only have to worry about weld quality if I send work out.

I DO screw up welds, now and again, but if I do, I grind it out, and
start over.

Even good professional weldors occasionally mess up. It's what they do
AFTER they mess one up that separates professionals from the hacks.

My Dad was a professional steam vessel weldor before WWII. In his job,
"mess up" meant ONE slag inclusion or bubble inside an inch thick weld,
which they X-rayed to inspect. Find one? Grind it out!

Lloyd

That is also typical of gas transmission lines :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.