Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil & Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how to
do this without bending the rivet.

Thanks

chudford wrote:
Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil & Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how to
do this without bending the rivet.

Use a pair of rivet sets.

http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/...tegoryID=73209

Hold one in a vice this is the one the head of the rivet fits into.
Assemble parts. There are two holes in the set, one is deep and used to set
the rivet. Place this over the shank and tap home. The other is cup shaped
and used for peening over the rivet. Put it over the rivet and tap with the
hammer.

Steve Firth wrote:

chudford wrote:
Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil & Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how to
do this without bending the rivet.

Use a pair of rivet sets.


http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/...tegoryID=73209

Hold one in a vice this is the one the head of the rivet fits into.
Assemble parts. There are two holes in the set, one is deep and used to
set the rivet. Place this over the shank and tap home. The other is cup
shaped and used for peening over the rivet. Put it over the rivet and tap
with the hammer.

Ah - the useful things we used to learn in metalwork at school Bet they
don't teach that anymore (riveting)...

--
Tim Watts

Tim Watts wrote:

Steve Firth wrote:

chudford wrote:
Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free
of charge (Phil & Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how
to do this without bending the rivet.

Use a pair of rivet sets.



http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/...tegoryID=73209

Hold one in a vice this is the one the head of the rivet fits into.
Assemble parts. There are two holes in the set, one is deep and
used to set the rivet. Place this over the shank and tap home. The
other is cup shaped and used for peening over the rivet. Put it
over the rivet and tap with the hammer.

Ah - the useful things we used to learn in metalwork at school Bet
they don't teach that anymore (riveting)...

Pop riveting ..

--
Paul - xxx

Tim Watts wrote:
[snip]

Ah - the useful things we used to learn in metalwork at school

Indeed, I won the second form prize for metalwork for a riveted set of
kitchen tools and several things turned on a lathe or bashed out of bits of
copper.

Bet they don't teach that anymore (riveting)...

I don't think they teach any useful skills now.

On Jun 13, 4:35*pm, chudford wrote:

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how to
do this without bending the rivet.

First of all, are they cut to the right length? I would expect so, if
they're supplied as spares. To make a nice domed rivet head against a
flat plate, allow an excess length of about 1 1/2 diameters for a
shallow mushroom head, 2 1/2 diameters for a rounded button. It's
probably not fussy in this case though, unless they're obviously too
long.

I assume that you're riveting through tubes (as it's a pushchair)? In
which case, most normal riveting goes out of the window. Don't use any
punches or sets, or else you'll crush the tube.

Assemble the bracket, tube & rivet. If the bracket is moulded plastic
and double sided, then you're sorted. If the bracket is single-sided,
then you need to close up the joint before you rivet it, otherwise it
will give a slack joint afterwards. Put the head of the rivet
downwards onto a good backing block: anvil, kerbstone, benchtop with
something solid on it. Now push down on the parts around the rivet to
close it all up - push, don't hammer.

Now rivet it up. Start with a lightweight BALL PEIN hammer - 6, 4 or 8
(if that's all you have) oz. You begin by hitting the rivet end-on
with the ball pein of the hammer. This "looks wrong" because it's no
way to form a rivet head. What you're trying to do at the start though
is to bulge the rivet out sideways immediately above the bracket. This
forms a good solid head from the bottom upwards. If you start out
hitting it sideways to try and "make a head", you'll form the head
from the top downwards, which makes for a weak and hollow head.
There's also a risk of clenching it - bending the whole thing over
sideways.

Once you have a good sized bulge in your rivet, you can start working
the ball pein in increasing circles and start making this into a round
button or mushroom head. Once it's of roughly the right proportion,
switch hammer faces and shape it up with the flat face of the hammer.

Riveting is a quick process. If you do it right it's quick, if it's
slow it's not working (and probably won't get better). You need to hit
just hard enough to move metal - not so hard you screw up, not so
light you just annoy the metal and work-harden it, without actually
shaping it.

You don't need a rivet set for this job.

On 13/06/2011 16:35, chudford wrote:
Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil& Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how to
do this without bending the rivet.

You need 1 & 1/2 protrusion to rivet it

On 13/06/2011 16:35, chudford wrote:
Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil& Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

Throw them away and use nuts and bolts? Use nyloc nuts or a pair of
ordinary nuts if the rivet acts as a pivot.


--
Kevin Poole

On Jun 13, 10:46*pm, Dave wrote:
On 13/06/2011 16:35, chudford wrote:

Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil& *Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how to
do this without bending the rivet.

You need 1 & 1/2 protrusion to rivet it

I can only find protrusions in sets of 10.

On 15/06/2011 09:31, Man at B&Q wrote:
On Jun 13, 10:46 pm, wrote:
On 13/06/2011 16:35, chudford wrote:

Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil& Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

I have never done this before, does the team have any hints on how to
do this without bending the rivet.

You need 1& 1/2 protrusion to rivet it

I can only find protrusions in sets of 10.

That should have read...

You need 1 to 1 1/2 times the diam, protrusion to rivet it.

Dave

"Kevin Poole" wrote in message
...
On 13/06/2011 16:35, chudford wrote:
Further to my previous post about a broken push chair I have very
kindly been supplied with new brake brackets by the supplier free of
charge (Phil& Teds by the way)

They are supplied with new, one ended, aluminium rivets which will
need to be peened over.

Throw them away and use nuts and bolts? Use nyloc nuts or a pair of
ordinary nuts if the rivet acts as a pivot.

I've been away, have not seen the earlier posts and so may have got the
wrong end of the stick, but are you sure that these single-ended aluminium
rivets are not intended to be used with spring steel push-on washers with
rounded caps? That is how a push chair we once had --Maclaren type -- was
put together.

Stephen
Kevin Poole