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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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On Jun 8, 7:04*pm, stryped wrote:
I am so frustrated. I have a 1990 mustang with factory air.Last year, I attempted to retrofit the car. However, the receiver drier I purchased would not attach to the compressor manifold/blocks. Inside the low pressure block was some sort of clip or something that kept the hose that is part of the receiver/dryer from going all the way in. I tried to pry it out and basically ruined the block. This year I attempted to do this again and paid 80 bucks for a used compressor off of ebay just to get the blocks because I could not fin them anywhere. And those have this clip or whatever it is too. I thought maybe autozone gave me the wrong receiver/dryer so I had them order another one and it is exactly like the old one. All I want is to fix this thing so I can drive it once in awhile to keep from putting a lot of miles on my new truck but it seems everything is working against me. Here are some pictures of what I am talking about: *http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...accumulatorlin... Has anyone out there ran into this or can anyone help me? If you've not done any reading up on this stuff, Haynes has a very good book on auto A/C. And I'm not familiar with the car, but Ford's A/C fittings are pretty much standard throughout their line and across the years, so I don't see Mustangs having a set of unique fittings. For conversion to R134, you need the green O-rings on ALL the fittings. Ford uses a snap-fitting setup, you'll need a set of specialty tools to break the joints and replace the O-rings. HF sells them cheap, Autozone, et all, not so much. The Ford compressors I've dealt with have had hoses crimped to the manifold blocks, these run to the condensor and the accumulator. If you want to replace the hoses, they'll have to be recrimped with new fittings on the manifold block. As far as the other ends, they just snap into place. They DO have to have a straight push or they don't latch. The connector O-rings should be lubed with whatever type of oil you're replacing the old mineral oil with or some stuff called Nylog, which is what I use. If you've buggered the garter springs trying to get the connections apart without the right tools, chances are you aren't getting them back together without replacing those springs. They can be had either online, from a junkyard or NAPA might have them. There are a number of sizes, you'll have to specify. I pull mine from wrecks at the U- Pull-It. They're easy to hook out with a bent scribe. Stan |
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