I am so frustrated. I have a 1990 mustang with factory air.Last year, I attempted to retrofit the car. However, the receiver drier I purchased would not attach to the compressor manifold/blocks. Inside the low pressure block was some sort of clip or something that kept the hose that is part of the receiver/dryer from going all the way in. I tried to pry it out and basically ruined the block. This year I attempted to do this again and paid 80 bucks for a used compressor off of ebay just to get the blocks because I could not fin them anywhere. And those have this clip or whatever it is too.

I thought maybe autozone gave me the wrong receiver/dryer so I had them order another one and it is exactly like the old one. All I want is to fix this thing so I can drive it once in awhile to keep from putting a lot of miles on my new truck but it seems everything is working against me.

Here are some pictures of what I am talking about:

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3873b083.jpg
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3819f939.jpg

Has anyone out there ran into this or can anyone help me?

stryped wrote:

I am so frustrated. I have a 1990 mustang with factory air.Last year, I
attempted to retrofit the car. However, the receiver drier I purchased
would not attach to the compressor manifold/blocks. Inside the low
pressure block was some sort of clip or something that kept the hose that
is part of the receiver/dryer from going all the way in. I tried to pry it
out and basically ruined the block. This year I attempted to do this again
and paid 80 bucks for a used compressor off of ebay just to get the blocks
because I could not fin them anywhere. And those have this clip or
whatever it is too.

I thought maybe autozone gave me the wrong receiver/dryer so I had them
order another one and it is exactly like the old one. All I want is to fix
this thing so I can drive it once in awhile to keep from putting a lot of
miles on my new truck but it seems everything is working against me.

Here are some pictures of what I am talking about:


http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3873b083.jpg

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3819f939.jpg

Has anyone out there ran into this or can anyone help me?
Ford uses these "garter locks" that have a ring on the tube, and an
O-ring and garter spring in whatever the hose fits into. The O-rings
wear out from body flexing, and start to leak, and sometimes the
refrigerant and refrig. lube eats them and they turn into a bunch
of muck. If you put the wrong O-rings in there (for fuel, ATF,
etc. they won't last long). So, the hose is supposed to have
a ring on the end of the tube that you wiggle past the garter
spring, then the tip of the tube is kept in the O-ring to
make the seal. When the ring is at the garter spring, you have
to wiggle the hose in a circular way to get it to expand the
spring and pass through. You get the feel of it after doing it a
couple times.

I couldn't tell from the pics whether this is a typical
garter lock or not. But, I think green is Viton, and the right
stuff for the AC O-rings.

Jon

On 9/06/2013 9:04 AM, stryped wrote:
I am so frustrated. I have a 1990 mustang with factory air.Last year, I attempted to retrofit the car. However, the receiver drier I purchased would not attach to the compressor manifold/blocks. Inside the low pressure block was some sort of clip or something that kept the hose that is part of the receiver/dryer from going all the way in. I tried to pry it out and basically ruined the block. This year I attempted to do this again and paid 80 bucks for a used compressor off of ebay just to get the blocks because I could not fin them anywhere. And those have this clip or whatever it is too.

I thought maybe autozone gave me the wrong receiver/dryer so I had them order another one and it is exactly like the old one. All I want is to fix this thing so I can drive it once in awhile to keep from putting a lot of miles on my new truck but it seems everything is working against me.

Here are some pictures of what I am talking about:

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3873b083.jpg
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3819f939.jpg

Has anyone out there ran into this or can anyone help me?



Instead of removing the "clip" from inside the female part, what about
trimming the length of the male part?

On Jun 8, 7:04*pm, stryped wrote:
I am so frustrated. I have a 1990 mustang with factory air.Last year, I attempted to retrofit the car. However, the receiver drier I purchased would not attach to the compressor manifold/blocks. Inside the low pressure block was some sort of clip or something that kept the hose that is part of the receiver/dryer from going all the way in. I tried to pry it out and basically ruined the block. This year I attempted to do this again and paid 80 bucks for a used compressor off of ebay just to get the blocks because I could not fin them anywhere. And those have this clip or whatever it is too.

I thought maybe autozone gave me the wrong receiver/dryer so I had them order another one and it is exactly like the old one. All I want is to fix this thing so I can drive it once in awhile to keep from putting a lot of miles on my new truck but it seems everything is working against me.

Here are some pictures of what I am talking about:

*http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...accumulatorlin...

Has anyone out there ran into this or can anyone help me?

If you've not done any reading up on this stuff, Haynes has a very
good book on auto A/C. And I'm not familiar with the car, but Ford's
A/C fittings are pretty much standard throughout their line and across
the years, so I don't see Mustangs having a set of unique fittings.

For conversion to R134, you need the green O-rings on ALL the
fittings. Ford uses a snap-fitting setup, you'll need a set of
specialty tools to break the joints and replace the O-rings. HF sells
them cheap, Autozone, et all, not so much. The Ford compressors I've
dealt with have had hoses crimped to the manifold blocks, these run to
the condensor and the accumulator. If you want to replace the hoses,
they'll have to be recrimped with new fittings on the manifold block.
As far as the other ends, they just snap into place. They DO have to
have a straight push or they don't latch. The connector O-rings should
be lubed with whatever type of oil you're replacing the old mineral
oil with or some stuff called Nylog, which is what I use. If you've
buggered the garter springs trying to get the connections apart
without the right tools, chances are you aren't getting them back
together without replacing those springs. They can be had either
online, from a junkyard or NAPA might have them. There are a number
of sizes, you'll have to specify. I pull mine from wrecks at the U-
Pull-It. They're easy to hook out with a bent scribe.

Stan

On 6/9/2013 11:05 AM, Stanley Schaefer wrote:
....

If you've not done any reading up on this stuff, Haynes has a very
good book on auto A/C. And I'm not familiar with the car, but Ford's
A/C fittings are pretty much standard throughout their line and across
the years, so I don't see Mustangs having a set of unique fittings.

+1

For conversion to R134, you need the green O-rings on ALL the
fittings. Ford uses a snap-fitting setup, you'll need a set of
specialty tools to break the joints and replace the O-rings. HF sells
them cheap, Autozone, et all, not so much. The Ford compressors I've
dealt with have had hoses crimped to the manifold blocks, these run to
the condensor and the accumulator. If you want to replace the hoses,
they'll have to be recrimped with new fittings on the manifold block.
As far as the other ends, they just snap into place. They DO have to
have a straight push or they don't latch. The connector O-rings should
be lubed with whatever type of oil you're replacing the old mineral
oil with or some stuff called Nylog, which is what I use. If you've
buggered the garter springs trying to get the connections apart
without the right tools, chances are you aren't getting them back
together without replacing those springs. They can be had either
online, from a junkyard or NAPA might have them. There are a number
of sizes, you'll have to specify. I pull mine from wrecks at the U-
Pull-It. They're easy to hook out with a bent scribe.

Stan

+1 again.

I'd only add that I _think_ the tool is one of the one AZ has for loan...

--

On Jun 9, 10:15*am, dpb wrote:
On 6/9/2013 11:05 AM, Stanley Schaefer wrote:
...

If you've not done any reading up on this stuff, Haynes has a very
good book on auto A/C. *And I'm not familiar with the car, but Ford's
A/C fittings are pretty much standard throughout their line and across
the years, so I don't see Mustangs having a set of unique fittings.

+1









For conversion to R134, you need the green O-rings on ALL the
fittings. *Ford uses a snap-fitting setup, you'll need a set of
specialty tools to break the joints and replace the O-rings. *HF sells
them cheap, Autozone, et all, not so much. *The Ford compressors I've
dealt with have had hoses crimped to the manifold blocks, these run to
the condensor and the accumulator. *If you want to replace the hoses,
they'll have to be recrimped with new fittings on the manifold block.
As far as the other ends, they just snap into place. They DO have to
have a straight push or they don't latch. The connector O-rings should
be lubed with whatever type of oil you're replacing the old mineral
oil with or some stuff called Nylog, which is what I use. *If you've
buggered the garter springs trying to get the connections apart
without the right tools, chances are you aren't getting them back
together without replacing those springs. *They can be had either
online, from a junkyard or NAPA might have them. *There are a number
of sizes, you'll have to specify. *I pull mine from wrecks at the U-
Pull-It. *They're easy to hook out with a bent scribe.

Stan

+1 again.

I'd only add that I _think_ the tool is one of the one AZ has for loan...

--

Not just ONE tool, it's a set of 4 or 6. There are a number of sizes
and they also work on fuel injection connections. They fit over the
tube of the female side and expand the garter spring, releasing the
tube. All explained in the Haynes. And I hadn't thought of AZ's loan
program, last conversion I did, I borrowed about $300 worth of
compressor tools so I could remove and refurb the compressor clutch
and replace the shaft seal. Impossible to do without them. The
clutch gap has to be within stated bounds or it slips or drags.

Stan

On Sat, 8 Jun 2013 18:04:40 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

I am so frustrated. I have a 1990 mustang with factory air.Last year, I attempted to retrofit the car. However, the receiver drier I purchased would not attach to the compressor manifold/blocks. Inside the low pressure block was some sort of clip or something that kept the hose that is part of the receiver/dryer from going all the way in. I tried to pry it out and basically ruined the block. This year I attempted to do this again and paid 80 bucks for a used compressor off of ebay just to get the blocks because I could not fin them anywhere. And those have this clip or whatever it is too.

I thought maybe autozone gave me the wrong receiver/dryer so I had them order another one and it is exactly like the old one. All I want is to fix this thing so I can drive it once in awhile to keep from putting a lot of miles on my new truck but it seems everything is working against me.

Here are some pictures of what I am talking about:

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3873b083.jpg
http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3819f939.jpg

Has anyone out there ran into this or can anyone help me?

This isn't the new spring-retainer style, it's the old retainer nut.

If the hose is a replacement, I'll bet it's the wrong one. It
happens, knowledge is lost when they go to repro things 20, 30, 40
years later. People don't study the drawings too closely and they
miss a detail. Or the book was wrong and the "universal" hose doesn't
have that notch.

Since the clip doesn't go all the way around at the same level, it
might be there to either keep the hose from rotating, or from someone
assembling it backwards. Or it blocks the guys on the assembly line
from putting a Suction hose (only 300 PSI) on the Pressure side where
it might see 450 or 500 coming out of the compressor. Yes, they shave
pennies that hard when building a car.

First thing, check the other end of that hose - if it has a matching
notch at the end, you put it in backwards... Hey, Stuff Happens. Look
at the printed legend on the side of the hose - if it says Pressure
and you're trying to put it on the Suction, that could be it.

I wouldn't try to get the clip out of the compressor block, as you
found out that's difficult at best...

After eliminating the other possibilities, and all logic insists that
the notch is supposed to be on that hose fitting, get out a Sharpie
and start planning out where it's supposed to hit, and how deep the
notch needs to be.

Notch the end of the fitting to match the keyway, or slightly shorten
the end of the hose fitting. Then deburr it carefully, and clean the
hell out of the hose to make sure you don't leave any filings or crap
inside to circulate.

And Don't Ding The O-Ring Flange Surfaces. Aluminum is soft. Wrap it
in electrical tape before you start as protection.

-- Bruce --