OT Please help, so frustrated with trying to fix car ac
On Jun 9, 10:15*am, dpb wrote:
On 6/9/2013 11:05 AM, Stanley Schaefer wrote:
...
If you've not done any reading up on this stuff, Haynes has a very
good book on auto A/C. *And I'm not familiar with the car, but Ford's
A/C fittings are pretty much standard throughout their line and across
the years, so I don't see Mustangs having a set of unique fittings.
+1
For conversion to R134, you need the green O-rings on ALL the
fittings. *Ford uses a snap-fitting setup, you'll need a set of
specialty tools to break the joints and replace the O-rings. *HF sells
them cheap, Autozone, et all, not so much. *The Ford compressors I've
dealt with have had hoses crimped to the manifold blocks, these run to
the condensor and the accumulator. *If you want to replace the hoses,
they'll have to be recrimped with new fittings on the manifold block.
As far as the other ends, they just snap into place. They DO have to
have a straight push or they don't latch. The connector O-rings should
be lubed with whatever type of oil you're replacing the old mineral
oil with or some stuff called Nylog, which is what I use. *If you've
buggered the garter springs trying to get the connections apart
without the right tools, chances are you aren't getting them back
together without replacing those springs. *They can be had either
online, from a junkyard or NAPA might have them. *There are a number
of sizes, you'll have to specify. *I pull mine from wrecks at the U-
Pull-It. *They're easy to hook out with a bent scribe.
Stan
+1 again.
I'd only add that I _think_ the tool is one of the one AZ has for loan...
--
Not just ONE tool, it's a set of 4 or 6. There are a number of sizes
and they also work on fuel injection connections. They fit over the
tube of the female side and expand the garter spring, releasing the
tube. All explained in the Haynes. And I hadn't thought of AZ's loan
program, last conversion I did, I borrowed about $300 worth of
compressor tools so I could remove and refurb the compressor clutch
and replace the shaft seal. Impossible to do without them. The
clutch gap has to be within stated bounds or it slips or drags.
Stan
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